The first watch is a (звезда) Zvezda. Translates to "star" in English. The bottom dial text reads Penza watch factory. The Penza watch factory also produced the Zarya (Заря) brand watches. Zarya translates to the red color you see in the sky at dawn or sunset.
6:00 Never seen this brand before. It’s a SARJA. Weird that it’s 5 letters in English. Translates as “Morning red”. The Pobedas from the 1950s are really good. I think they used movements licensed from the French company LIP. I can’t identify the first watch. Its movement is beautiful.
The first and last watches are beauties. Both Amphibias, model 470xxx. The xxx denotes the dial design. Both have stainless steel cases. I’m not one of the blokes on the antiques roadshow, but 200 bucks a piece?
Hi Ratface. I’m geeking out on these videos. Please keep them coming. The dial at 4:21 is original and is in excellent condition. It’s my favourite (that’s how we spell it in the UK) dial of all the Vostoks. Like you I’m short on info but the zakaz mo cccp printing denotes that it was military, not civilian. However, these weren’t ‘issued’. The soldiers had to buy them. Really great collection. Cheers and happy holidays!
Hej, good you are here again 🎉 It is a franken, crown wheel is from Pobeda watch, who knows what else have been changed. I would use working balance and the whole donor movement as a parts source 😊
Glad to see you’re back! I love the channel. I’d swap the whole movement. I suspect the donor movement is better. The cyrilic script reads ‘Pobeda’ meaning victory. ‘2-55’ means quarter 2, 1955. I can’t rember the donor movement reference. K-43 perhaps?
Thanks for all your movies, those really helped me back in the day when I was tinkering with some soviet waches. Glad to see you're still enjoying it. I hope the passion will come back to me some day :)
Back in the latter 1800's, not only had nitro been used in safe cracking but dynamite would be applied to the door face in the hopes of breaking the timelock escapement causing the timelock to immediately wind down. Springing the movements was one way of trying to prevent a timelock failure.
Thanks for the video. I wonder if the spring mounting of the whole mechanism might also make a drill attack more difficult ; if the steel block can squirm away from the drill? (I wouldn’t have thought there’d normally be much vibration (but maybe so in an old steelworks) 🙂
Seiko SNK809 with upgraded NH36A movement. Maybe 4 years old. I've been fighting wildly adjusting rates, and now the second hand binding. Every minute. Turns out, it is your solution, but it's the other end of the second hand. The lollipop is catching the minute hand. Thanks for the video, you will help keep my favorite watch running. 🍻
Hello, thanks for posting this restoration of the Slava 2356. I bought one recently to restore and until I watched your videos, I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Now I see in your video, the hack switch is a key part of the function. The watch I have, the hack switch is broken and the piece that broke off is missing. So now I have to find a donor movement that has a good hack switch.
By law every morning cement should have the same micro ajust screw as a Hangzhou 5000 micro rotor and ideally an ETA type for beat error. Or at least an ETA type for speed. These are amazing movements that when ajusted are well thin Rolex specs and I have a home build watch and it's my 2nd most accurate movement after a top grade SW-330-2
Totally newb here. That itty bitty screw at the end of the lever... should you loosen that to make the lever easier to move? Or bad idea? And that first lever you move is beat error? and the second one is the actual regulation? Thanks
I guess I'll just remove the rotor before adjustment. Seems pretty crowded in comparison to nh family. That rotor is pretty close to escapement. And the same problem with levers. Stiff. Orient F69xx series are even worse. I made me out of bamboo stick in form of screw driver and I try to slowly build up pressure in the push direction, somewhat like you want to move the stud but you hope it does not move 🙂. The NH family can be erratic where the slightest movement jumps from -10 to +10s/day and just the opposite where you can work you to the wanted sweet spot. How is the Miyota 9015 in regards of the stud sensitivity?
The Orient movements have a hard hairspring and in my opinion so much better than the MH or 4r36. But my god is it stuff, I returned one that way but if you need a spare more cement or parts let me know.
I have a watch with a Miyota 9015 and I have a question about the rotor. If I look trough the backside the rotor barely wants to move in the winding direction but moves freely in the other direction. Its almost like i cant make the rotor move in the winding direction. Is this like it should be? If the watch is fully wound maybe the rotor turns less in the winding direction?
I have a Slava watch with this movement and recently I noticed the hour hand is a bit loose, it changes position if I shake the watch. What could be the problem?
Mr RTG, could you answer a question on coils? I've got a Slava standard 3056A in almost new condition but the spares 3056A's I have all have duff coils and this one I recently received the coil has been damaged badly and looks like a copper set of bristles. Will coils from the non A 3056 fit? I don't want to put something in there that will fry that delicate chip or ruin a good coil. Any chance you could cover a 3055 at some point? I am in f10 username Dodgydruid... you might have seen me posting a bit in there :D
Def enjoyed that series, I am going to gingerly take my one to pieces over the week to see where its gone from a super accurate big red star to a non working sad red nose, I have several of the main 30xx types for spares so should be good I am hoping, ty :D
My big red star died this week, strangely it has the 3056A movement in and not Slava's own in house 2356 which surprised me, changed the battery a week before and O ring was fine, noticed wearing the watch this black smeary gunge on my wrist and saw it exiting out the caseback lug channel, opened it up and it was like a disaster in there. So with IPA I gently and carefully cleaned the case area but I suspect the gunge had settled around the coil lead and q tip broke the tiny wire, really peeved as the watch had been astonishingly accurate, luckily my acquisition of a 3050 based Slava tank arrived so got something Soviet quartz on me wrist until I can get the big red star into pieces lol
I absolutely love these videos. Thanks so much for sharing. You’re comments are turned off on the Vostok vids. Do you service Vostoks? Im currently awaiting 4 junior Komandirski watches from Russia. Not sure what to expect with the movements. They were listed as serviced. If you do in fact offer your services, what do you charge? Thanks.
They should be 22 or 2409 standard movements, the only slight difference I found on a recent Cadet 2409 was it accepted only the 2209 second hand and wondered if Vostok maybe changed the second hand pinion dimension for the Cadets. I utilised a NOS Cadet's 2409 in my recent video build of a radio room 090 where you can see the frustration with the standard 24xx second hands just not fitting so installed the Cadet second hand and it went straight on and the homebrew watch has worked beautifully since building losing very little seconds a day too.
Gracias a tu video sobre ese modelo pude restaurar una pieza igual, sin tus conocimientos hubiera sido imposible muchas gracias amigo
I'm happy to help.
The first watch is a (звезда) Zvezda. Translates to "star" in English. The bottom dial text reads Penza watch factory. The Penza watch factory also produced the Zarya (Заря) brand watches. Zarya translates to the red color you see in the sky at dawn or sunset.
I have a SLAVA which Commemorates the Success of the SPUTNIK Satellite.
Hi. Glad you're back. 2-55 means second quarter of 55 and not February - from April to Juin. Keep filming :)
Thanks for sharing!
6:00 Never seen this brand before. It’s a SARJA. Weird that it’s 5 letters in English. Translates as “Morning red”. The Pobedas from the 1950s are really good. I think they used movements licensed from the French company LIP. I can’t identify the first watch. Its movement is beautiful.
The Sturmanskies at 6:48 and 7:08 are both military issued. They don’t have a crown at 9 o’clock. Great video!
The first and last watches are beauties. Both Amphibias, model 470xxx. The xxx denotes the dial design. Both have stainless steel cases. I’m not one of the blokes on the antiques roadshow, but 200 bucks a piece?
Good to know, thanks.
Hi Ratface. I’m geeking out on these videos. Please keep them coming. The dial at 4:21 is original and is in excellent condition. It’s my favourite (that’s how we spell it in the UK) dial of all the Vostoks. Like you I’m short on info but the zakaz mo cccp printing denotes that it was military, not civilian. However, these weren’t ‘issued’. The soldiers had to buy them. Really great collection. Cheers and happy holidays!
Thanks. Great information. Just finished episode 10 for a total of 95 pieces.
I love my 3133 i would like to get a couple more but they are getting more and more expensive
Te zegarki, czarny i biały, to nie Zim, tylko Zaria. Pozdrawiam serdecznie.
Yes they are. Thank you.
Respekt
Hej, good you are here again 🎉 It is a franken, crown wheel is from Pobeda watch, who knows what else have been changed. I would use working balance and the whole donor movement as a parts source 😊
Hola amigo, sin duda cambia el balance por el roto ,ya encontrarás algún donante para el dorado
Glad to see you’re back! I love the channel. I’d swap the whole movement. I suspect the donor movement is better. The cyrilic script reads ‘Pobeda’ meaning victory. ‘2-55’ means quarter 2, 1955. I can’t rember the donor movement reference. K-43 perhaps?
Personally, I would just swap the balance.
Respekt!
Thank you
😮 You alive!
Men cannot have babies
Thanks for all your movies, those really helped me back in the day when I was tinkering with some soviet waches. Glad to see you're still enjoying it. I hope the passion will come back to me some day :)
Back in the latter 1800's, not only had nitro been used in safe cracking but dynamite would be applied to the door face in the hopes of breaking the timelock escapement causing the timelock to immediately wind down. Springing the movements was one way of trying to prevent a timelock failure.
Thanks for the video. I wonder if the spring mounting of the whole mechanism might also make a drill attack more difficult ; if the steel block can squirm away from the drill? (I wouldn’t have thought there’d normally be much vibration (but maybe so in an old steelworks) 🙂
interesting indeed
Great to see you back - I've missed your dulcet tones. Really looking forward to some more watch videos - can't believe it's been 7 years! 🎉
Thanks. Dulcet?? I had to look that up. Pleasing to the ear. Really? I am not a good orator. I hate the sound of my own voice.
Glad you are back
Thanks
Hola amigo, se echan de menos tus comentarios, 😃
Thanks. Per request, look for collection videos soon with comments, sometimes salty, always honest.
Thanks for your watch videos. I am going to use engine synthetic oil.
Can I swap out my Miyota 8215 with the 9015?
Shouldn't shift that as it'll affect the amplitude.
Seiko SNK809 with upgraded NH36A movement. Maybe 4 years old. I've been fighting wildly adjusting rates, and now the second hand binding. Every minute. Turns out, it is your solution, but it's the other end of the second hand. The lollipop is catching the minute hand. Thanks for the video, you will help keep my favorite watch running. 🍻
Hello, thanks for posting this restoration of the Slava 2356. I bought one recently to restore and until I watched your videos, I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Now I see in your video, the hack switch is a key part of the function. The watch I have, the hack switch is broken and the piece that broke off is missing. So now I have to find a donor movement that has a good hack switch.
By law every morning cement should have the same micro ajust screw as a Hangzhou 5000 micro rotor and ideally an ETA type for beat error. Or at least an ETA type for speed. These are amazing movements that when ajusted are well thin Rolex specs and I have a home build watch and it's my 2nd most accurate movement after a top grade SW-330-2
hi, where can i find that main spring winder? seems to be very cool ..Cheers!
Merci beaucoup l'Ami
Totally newb here. That itty bitty screw at the end of the lever... should you loosen that to make the lever easier to move? Or bad idea? And that first lever you move is beat error? and the second one is the actual regulation? Thanks
А вы знаете зачем эти красные полоски на циферблате
I guess I'll just remove the rotor before adjustment. Seems pretty crowded in comparison to nh family. That rotor is pretty close to escapement. And the same problem with levers. Stiff. Orient F69xx series are even worse. I made me out of bamboo stick in form of screw driver and I try to slowly build up pressure in the push direction, somewhat like you want to move the stud but you hope it does not move 🙂. The NH family can be erratic where the slightest movement jumps from -10 to +10s/day and just the opposite where you can work you to the wanted sweet spot. How is the Miyota 9015 in regards of the stud sensitivity?
The Orient movements have a hard hairspring and in my opinion so much better than the MH or 4r36. But my god is it stuff, I returned one that way but if you need a spare more cement or parts let me know.
I have a watch with a Miyota 9015 and I have a question about the rotor. If I look trough the backside the rotor barely wants to move in the winding direction but moves freely in the other direction. Its almost like i cant make the rotor move in the winding direction. Is this like it should be? If the watch is fully wound maybe the rotor turns less in the winding direction?
Yes it’s supposed to be that way. The rotor only rotates in one direction.
YOU ARE AMAZING!!! Really worth its weight in gold. Thank you so much for this tutorial. I was stuck for hours.
After watching this videos of 16 minutes i think my hand are much precise.
Lol
Do you know how to use a camera?
I have a Slava watch with this movement and recently I noticed the hour hand is a bit loose, it changes position if I shake the watch. What could be the problem?
Mr RTG, could you answer a question on coils? I've got a Slava standard 3056A in almost new condition but the spares 3056A's I have all have duff coils and this one I recently received the coil has been damaged badly and looks like a copper set of bristles. Will coils from the non A 3056 fit? I don't want to put something in there that will fry that delicate chip or ruin a good coil. Any chance you could cover a 3055 at some point? I am in f10 username Dodgydruid... you might have seen me posting a bit in there :D
Def enjoyed that series, I am going to gingerly take my one to pieces over the week to see where its gone from a super accurate big red star to a non working sad red nose, I have several of the main 30xx types for spares so should be good I am hoping, ty :D
My big red star died this week, strangely it has the 3056A movement in and not Slava's own in house 2356 which surprised me, changed the battery a week before and O ring was fine, noticed wearing the watch this black smeary gunge on my wrist and saw it exiting out the caseback lug channel, opened it up and it was like a disaster in there. So with IPA I gently and carefully cleaned the case area but I suspect the gunge had settled around the coil lead and q tip broke the tiny wire, really peeved as the watch had been astonishingly accurate, luckily my acquisition of a 3050 based Slava tank arrived so got something Soviet quartz on me wrist until I can get the big red star into pieces lol
I absolutely love these videos. Thanks so much for sharing. You’re comments are turned off on the Vostok vids. Do you service Vostoks? Im currently awaiting 4 junior Komandirski watches from Russia. Not sure what to expect with the movements. They were listed as serviced. If you do in fact offer your services, what do you charge? Thanks.
They should be 22 or 2409 standard movements, the only slight difference I found on a recent Cadet 2409 was it accepted only the 2209 second hand and wondered if Vostok maybe changed the second hand pinion dimension for the Cadets. I utilised a NOS Cadet's 2409 in my recent video build of a radio room 090 where you can see the frustration with the standard 24xx second hands just not fitting so installed the Cadet second hand and it went straight on and the homebrew watch has worked beautifully since building losing very little seconds a day too.
Great videos! You are my favorite! Great job! Thanks!
Thanks for the upload and sharing this. I have parts missing like the clutch and a few scews plus the rubber insulator but the watch still works.
Fantastic work. Great result.
Your vostok 2409 videos have been a great help. Thank you.
Yeh, please show us how the plexiglass, dial, hands etc come off? Was it from a Benrus type I ?