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I can't find the 12 v ACC to connect my amplifier, it connects it directly to the 12v of the screen with a switch in the middle🫠 help please

Um why did you not change out the other two caps when you were already in there. It was obvious the other two were leaking as well. You had it out and open. It was not like its a hard fix. I guess I just dont understand why you did not do it.

When soldering you need to get the iron onto the surfaces to be soldered then, once they have time to heat up, feed the solder into the joint. Hitting the solder first burns off the flux and by the time the joint is joining the party you're already fighting surface oxidation in your bead of solder.

What gauge is remote wire?

Thanks for sharing - very informative

Great fix Cory, thanks for sharing! Headed to Lowe's later today.

Just did this with my truck today. 2019 3.5 and it immediately made a difference. I couldn't wait to put these on I put them on in the Lowe’s parking lot. 100% recommend

I have a 2015 mustang gt basic and wanted to add 2 amps in trunk. Want to use 1/0 gauge power wire from battery to trunk. Ordered 10 feet of this wire cause its so expensive. You think 10 ft is enough? Distribution blocks will be needed to turn 1/0 gauge to 4 gauge. Thanks for the video any feedback appreciated

Alright. So there’s hope. I just bought a $33 carb.

How's it holdin up?

Did u test tps ???

Double up your cables they way to thin

Hey hope your channel grows keep it up

With all due respect brother …. FUKKKKKKKK THAT!!!!😆😆😆😆😆 ABSOLUTELY NO WAY I’d waste my time doing that lol even simple as it is , I’d toss a carb on it before that lmao h should fix computers tho 🫡😜

Running a 96 7.5 you helped me understand my challenges and possible issues. Swapped a used ecu in then lost all forward gears

Random question. How do you remove the stereo once you’ve put it in there so tight if you have to replace it?

Modern trucks, even those classified under OBD-I (On-Board Diagnostics), do not use carburetors but rather electronic fuel injection systems (EFI). In these vehicles, similar principles apply but with different mechanisms: Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Instead of an automatic choke, modern engines use an IAC valve that regulates airflow into the intake manifold during idle conditions. This valve adjusts based on engine temperature and other parameters. Cold Start Enrichment: When you start a modern truck in cold conditions, the engine control unit (ECU) detects low temperatures through various sensors. It then commands the IAC valve to allow more air into the system temporarily while also adjusting fuel delivery for optimal performance. Just like with carbureted engines, this results in a higher idle speed immediately after starting until the engine reaches its normal operating temperature. Once warmed up, the IAC valve reduces airflow back to standard levels, stabilizing idle speed. In summary, while both carbureted trucks and modern fuel-injected trucks exhibit high idling speeds during cold starts due to their respective mechanisms designed for enriching fuel mixtures or adjusting airflow, they operate using fundamentally different technologies. Understanding these differences helps clarify why such behaviors are observed across various types of vehicles.

I had the same issue. I replaced the capacitors twice. The first time worked okay for a while but the original capacitors leaked and corroded the board. I finally bought a new ecu and it ran better than ever. It wasn't that expensive either.

Enjoyed the video. Suggest that you look into converting battery bank to the 36V Lithium battery. Cheaper than 6/6V and get more than 20 miles on a charge. Just a suggestion.

It’s the strangest thing. I went to go do this for my truck, but I noticed that my turbos do NOT have the oil tubes (or oil lines) that all these wastegate videos show

WHY DOSE NOBODY TELL PEOPLE HOW TO CONNECT IT TO THE BATTERIES, THATS THE IMPORTANCE, AND NOBODY DOSE OT

Nice. Mine has no spark😮

How do you attach the cage to the dash?

my 76 360 FE had a rough idle, a miss and off idle stumble. 1. i replaced all the vac hoses-it got lil better 2. replaced all the spark plugs and wires were new-that did nothing 4. replaced gas tank and fuel sender and carb fuel filter and added a pre pump see thru filter- this helped alot 3. rebuilt the carb before the other fuel stuff -that temporaily helped but tank was rusty and there was 2-3 vac leaks on carb shaft and below carb 5. FINALLY broke down and bought a new Chinee clone carb for only 89usd plus shipping- this helped ALOT. NOW it idles very smoothly, so smooth im guessing i can still keep it idling at 400 rpm and it doesnt even stall putting it in gear with that low rpm Havent tried balancing a nickle on the carb but its so smooth now compared to before i think it could and virtually no stumble off idle. -this is all despite having one piston at 80ish compression and all the others under 110, which i assume is very low even for a dog low compression 360Fe. * there is some trade-offs with chinee clone carb. 1 being theres no pcv port in same position but a large threaded one around the corner, so i have to modify that to accept the stock pcv hoses.

Good video, am saving for a future project. Interestingly, I have been spinning about the extremely hard shifts that would mysteriously go away. Very long story, no real guidance in following the codes I pulled. There is still an issue and your solution will be on my future attempts to correct the issue. In the meantime, I also figured out that in troubleshooting my issue I finally read in a forum that the codes, even though cleared using my reader, were still having an effect in the truck UNTIL I disconnected the battery. It is a 94 f150 5.0, a truck used temporarily and for plowing. What triggers it back into hard shifting is going over 60mph! After confirming this condition, my plan is to keep it under 60, and so far so good, driving for weeks now!!! The battery disconnect was really causing inconsistent "results" in repair attempts. I also noticed that in your case shifting was smooth after the capacitor replacement AND a battery disconnect.

What wheels are those? They look great.

Outstanding

Im looking to do this soon. My turbos rattle all the time and annoying and embarrassing

Thank you!

Clean and nice install definitely would enjoy seeing more of your audio installation 👍💯🔥

I just changed my idle air control on my '90 F350 5.8 due to the engine dying with the AC on. I found the IAC was very clean and the shaft moving freely. BUT, the solenoid was not working . Problem solved. I suspect it can also account for unnecessary high idle too. I suggest you replace it and see or at least test the solenoid.

Have a 91 Lariat regular cab ! Community has been awesome went answering questions.

I noticed a few people asking about the capacitors. There are two 47uF 16volts, and one 10uF 63volt. Make sure you get caps with a temperature rating of 105 degrees Celsius. Get quality caps so you don’t have to do this again soon. Panasonic, Rubycon, Nichicon are quality brand names. And if you see corrosion under those caps from the leakage, make sure all of that gets cleaned off. A qtip and alcohol works. Be careful so you don’t damage any of the very thin traces (the places the current flows) and also make sure they have good continuity on both ends of the trace if you find yours look damaged. Quite common under leaky caps and just replacing the caps will not solve all of your problems.

If you haven’t done so already, you NEED to get back into that module and replace the other two caps. Additionally, the leakage from the one you did replace has damaged the small traces near it. Those will need to be checked for continuity and may need jumpers from the end points if the traces are that bad. That is how you fix traces that are that small, with wire jumpers. I could see they looked corroded to a point where you probably have lost some vehicle component controls from that ecu. That leakage becomes an acid that eats the copper traces away. They turn dark like yours did when that happens. As far as your soldering, when you bring the soldering iron to the pad and the lead, leave the soldering iron on it for a few seconds longer with the solder. Wait for the solder to completely melt and leave the iron there for a few seconds more so the pad and the lead get hot enough to allow the solder to attach to both. Don’t continue to add more solder. Once the solder melts on both, it will form a cone. When you kept putting more solder on the spot and kept pulling the gun away, that’s why it beaded up on you. But anyway, once you are in that thing, always replace all of those electrolytic capacitors. They have likely developed a high ESR value after this much time, and that is not something you can visually check for. Additionally, if they start leaking too, you will have more damage to the traces. 🙂

what do each of the capacitors control?

Did not help what so ever

How did you connect the constant, and ignition wire for the radio ?

40 minutes talking and 4 minutes of fast forwarded doing … not trying to crap in the video just explaining why this is a hard watch. I appreciate the initial wiring explanation though it’s helpful.

My 91 f150 inline 6 is idling high at 1000 rpm and after revving it goes right back down to that. And it jumps down then right back up. I was told to check the IAC valve because it might be bad. Not sure how to go about it. Any tips?

Gotta change your ECU fluid periodically 😅

Skip to 4:50 for the start of the info you are looking for.

I have a 1989 f350 that is having similar issues I have to drive it like a manual to get it to shift and after driving 25 and stopping at a red light or stop sign it wants to surge. Any thoughts as if it could be this same issue?

Great video, thank you!!! Gave me the extra push of confidence I needed. Can you tell me if you wired the 12v supply and the 12v signal through the switch? My cart is left unattended (not plugged in) for a 2+ months at a time. I was concerned if only the signal wire is switched would the stereo draw power when off.

Brick nose not OBS

Nice install. Thanks for reducing the volume while cutting the dash. I didn’t have to yank my AirPods out!

one good tip i can give u with ur soldering is you should use a chisel tip, it'll have more heat capacitance and itll make thing go a bit smoother

Keep the old ones running, the new ones are overpriced and turns us into goooo. LOL!

750rpm standard, sometimes that so called idle screw on throttle body might have been adjusted and might need some correction in order to allow the iac to do it's job.

I have a '90 150 Lariat 4x2 302 aod , had the trans rebuilt , lasted a couple years (light use) went again . I had the same problem with every week another issue . It's been sitting 6 or 7 years now , I need a truck so I might try again . I hope I don't have to solder anything , because my soldering skills aren't great . It was nice to one running .

A good Coolant temp sensor supposedly will lower your idle. Maybe yours is bad