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Grandios 👍 👍 👍

Hey man "Not the most interesting subject", no way, tool making/repair/restoration is fascinating. The choice of wood, the grain orientation, the finish, the trade offs manufactures have to make between quality and being priced out of the market by Chinese junk, etc. Traditionally, hickory is considered the best wood for framing hammers. Durable enough for a tradesman to use it daily for a few years, but it will dampen vibration as you drive millions of nails over your career. Speaking of which, I'd suggest you briefly watch a video on replacing hammer handles (anyone really, or "new handle on a hammer" by the perkins brothers). Getting a perfect fit, especially with wood which shrinks and swells with moisture, for a handle mating with the tool is neigh on impossible. Instead, the handles are made "mallet tight" (ie the fit is more snug than a slip fit, but you can remove 'em without a hydraulic power pack). A relief cut is made in the handle, and then a wood wedge (ideally made of long grain from quarter-sawn lumber) is driven in so the handle expands. Sometimes designing the right taper is tricky, but generally I've had good luck with a 1:7. Finally one (or usually two) metal wedges (they look like ferrules basically, but are super durable and are sharp enough to drive into wood) are driven into the whole assembly, further expanding the head of the handle into the recess of the tool, as well as capping the wedge in. Regardless, that corrosion will continue to propagate as the moisture in the air permeates through the nooks and crannies of your new handle. Take some steel wool or scotch-brite and get rid of all of the rust. Corroseal, POR-15, or Rustoleum "Rust Reformer" are all products worth considering, as they chemically neutralize the on-going oxidation within the metal matrix. Alternatively, just paint it with DuPont Imron ;) A+ for Shinto, and your lathe ran so smoothly I almost thought it was a metal lathe. Also,you're in the UK! So many good tools at car boot sales. Marples. Sorby! No need to buy expensive new 3/4" chisels

Nice one Geoff. That was a good fix for the old trowel! I never thought about the direction of cutting until you just mentioned it,I think I go from right to left,I don't think it really matters and being a cackhanded old cove I go with whats comfortable lol Wood turning is not all about fancy bowls and vases ,there's the practical side to it as you have just shown.Nice new skew,did you put the profile on it or is it how it came?.Cheers ,Bram

Very well thought out and excellent work! If I were to do anything different I might have used sheet aluminum for the index wheel. I am bad about over kill! LOL!

like from brazil! good solution

That's a very nice little bowl. I have not used Howard's feed and wax for a few years now, since it is listed as not food safe. However, I think that after it has dried and then cured it is probably fine..

That turned out very nice. I've only used Feed'n'Wax once but it gave a great finish and smells great, that's Phil's influence! When I started watching turning videos in 2016/17 scrapers on a bowl were so frowned upon and to even pick one up would cause tear out. Then Richard Raffen came onto the scene (or maybe back onto the scene given all his books and vhs content) and showed another way. I'm gradually re-grinding back to conventional scrapers after turning most to negative rake. Cheers, Dave

Its a lovely little bowl Geoff I love the finish ,the Howards feed and wax brings out the grain and colour,I have some but haven't got around to using it yet.Nice one mate cheers and take care,Bram

very interesting .....make what works

It's home made and functional ,looks good to me Geoff.I had several pieces of oak and all had hidden 'gems' ...barbed wire lol happens to us all mate ,you never know what's going to be found. Nice job mate,cheers Bram

You can use strips of aluminium foil to protect the top of the wood

Beautifully crafted Geoff!

Hi Geoff. Even though I have a belt/disc sander I do think I now, thanks to your video, need a lathe driven disc sander. Much more control. Yes, those sanding sticks are really useful. I have made smaller ones from old hacksaw blades with the teeth ground off. Very thin but still stiff enough for those tight spaces. All the best mate.

Fun fun stuff 👍

Hi Geoff, I found you from Bram's latest video and have subbed and hit the bell. I've had my LP2 for nearly 2 years now and love it. That is a great little stand Geoff. Take care. Cheers, Huw

Nice one Geoff,I need to make a new sanding disc for my new lathe as the one I made for my old original lathe won't fit the new one.I will see if I can make one similar to yours .Cheers,and take care Bram

Pretty cool little tool lots of learning 👍

when all else fails .....threaten with a hammer 😃would a drop of ca hold the loose one? That was a good review on those cutters and I think when the little tweaks are sorted out it will be a handy addition to the workshop. Cheers mate and take care Bram

Hola gracias por compartir tu buena idea... Pero no quemaría la.madera?

Perfecta y económica. Felicidades.

congratulations

Great money saving advise and fun to build. So does your lazer bed just sit ontop of the mdf or aluminium spoil board or what keeps it in place?

Would you have a video on how to make the cam clamp?

It does not require wasting time. The old car coolant is much better!

Thanks, it will be very usefull for my next project. the bbq grill is a wonderfull idea 👍

I have a K40 laser and have been using barbeque grill for years works a treat. Good video

Thanks for the video I have the t10 also which I use for worktops but I need a table now too so good to see it can be adapted where necessary 👍

Assuming you only have one lathe, the adjustable length arm isn't necessary. The rest is spot on. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

Could you tell me what output power your module is please I've got a laser tree 10w on the way

Thanks for running through this process. It should prove very useful.. a fixed router is not easy or cheap to sort out for the DIYer like me..I was about to go cheap and by the Silverline router table till i found out that only one of their routers actual fit it and the table if flimsy too!. In the end i bought a router lift inc solid 5mm Aluminium top for my ubiquitous Chinese 64mm dia bodied mini router. It does work and is easy to use being top adjusted. After some thought I discovered i could mount my Silverline 264859 1500w beast to it if it situated it at 90 degrees. the holes i needed to make it fit are well away from the other countersunk holes for the mini router lift then. So i can quickly adapt either. I don't have a base like your Trend .. just a piece of 18mm plyboard with the plate routed into it and a Black and Decker workmate.. I will make up a base under it to fix the lifter to.. PS.. the lift rate of those lifters (like any scissor mechanism.. Car Jack etc) is not linear.. ie the lift moves a LOT for very little turning of the thread when it is closed down so I am going to set it so it has already raised 30mm before touching the router at all. That way I'll have an easier job micro adjusting the bit height. I'll also get my cheap cordless screwdriver on that thread to speed up the router movement when hanging bits. Thanks again for the work doing the video.. they are time consuming (I know) and sometimes you get no thanks but a lot of keyboard warriors/critics jumping on you for little reason.. 😁😁😁😁😁😁

Awesome, thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

For the very bottom of the work area just buy the cheapest terracotta tiles you can find. Turn them upside down and line the bottom. The reddish underside is laser and fire proof. It also has raised checker board style ridges (normally used for grabbing into mortar), but those ridges are also taller by a few mm's.

Brilliant, Geoff! Absolutely brilliant! Thanks for sharing. 😃 Take care, …..Gord

You sir are a legend, i came to UA-cam just for this exact thing and reason. Are you selling these? I do not have the tools to make this. :( but i really WANT one.

This was a very enjoyable video. Thank you for sharing

Just the kind of thing I was looking for thank you 👍🏻 I’m not a fan of the motorised stand, a few times it’s glitched and not switched off when lowering and bent the stand!!

Thank you. Very useful information and pleased I'm not the only one who thought the instructions could be improved.

Nice job Geoff they look the business mate and good luck in the challenge. is the laser/engraver expensive? Cheers and take care Bram

Brilliant project thank you

Good solution. I struggle to understand why the pre-made beds are so expensive so will give this a try. Thanks for sharing the idea.

It looks very nice Geoff and i love what looks like dandylion heads Nice one mate ,cheers, Bram

The Idea is great, but.... You will see, if you start many laser projekts, the thin metal will bend, so you have maybe a problem with the focus.

Great idea - thanks for the video.

Wow blast from the past, your video popped up on my feed so I thought I'd take a look at this one and a few of your other video's. Looks like your doing some clever stuff with your woodturning and workshop mate. Love the old Pinnacle top😂 It's good to see you looking well Geoff, take care and I look forward to seeing more of your work.

Reminds me I need to remake my index wheels since I've changed the lathe. Was going to try and do it on my small CNC but being accurate with play in the z axis and size restrictions is the issue You might want to number the holes, especially useful if you do an open segmented work which I find more enjoyable and easier than closed segments,

Perfect - just what I was looking for. As a suggestion if you make another - nail your disk to a board, clamp board to pillar drill bed, then the disk can spin at the right radius for the circle of holes. Just eliminates one of the potential errors?

So simple, never thought of using BBQ grills. I To cut costs, I used a steel panel off a washing machine for my bed.

Great idea, Geoff. I would be interested in how it works if you have a large piece to cut and need to cut across the wooden supports. Anyway, looks like a great idea! Take care, .....Gord

Great demo Very interested in trying this myself ,would it be possible to get a copy of the template used to drill the indexer. Thanks again for the demo

Nice work. You might try using a C a finish for a more high gloss shine start with medium, put a thin coat on hit it with the activator and then use some Yorkshire grits to bring up the shine. Follow up with a few coats of thin CA using the same process. You’ll find the shine is unbelievable and it also leaves a hard finish.