Відео

Haha it’s London! Just have a look around when you cycle in a city there is always lots of stuff to find!

The fork here is not original and can only clear 28, the back could clear 32 though!

Hehe Nice! Post the result here when you’re done!! I wanna see it :)

Yeah I use to be more classic restoration with all matching component but with time I’m a bit less rigid, it does look nice overall so I’m happy :)

Hey! Centrepull are normally not too hard to setup, I would maybe look into your cable housing or routing? Sometimes if they feel spongy it has more to do with cables than brakes in itself. Sheldon brown website has an article where he explain the correct length for straddle and so on

😂

It is a beautiful well made bike! This one came with bluemels mudguards that were sadly broken

No worries, Bluemels wasn't the factory fit. Raleigh sold the Classic with unbranded half-round, silver plastic guards - same as they fitted to contemporary(±) Royal, Richmond, Westminster, Randonneur models. No shame in fitting the ones you chose. They are good guards. Pretty certain I have the same on one of my bikes, maybe the Claud Butler Majestic.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

After checking a few photos, I fitted those guards to my Raleigh Winner ... which is in a buddy's shed in another country. I haven't seen the bike since pre-COVID (2019). Buddy says it's doing fine.

It’s a simple hack but it makes such a difference! I normally don’t really like these brake levers because of their flimsiness but with the bold they work just fine

Cheers! Really? I’ve been told it’s not good to leave space cause they wear faster, I always pack them tight and never had a problem

Thank you! It absolutely deserved to have a proper restoration :)

They are amazing bikes, just rides super well and will never break!

Thank you so much for your feedback! The front brake is on the right in the UK it’s the other way around in Europe :)

@@thebikefelix really?! I didn’t know that. 🫢

If you watch till the end I revert to the original shifters.

@@thebikefelix ok, me like..., cudos for the white grips also...

Thank you! I spend time trying to find good royalty free music :)

Thank you! I did change the shifters to friction as the indexing on the 7 speed ones wasn't working, and honestly it works so much better in friction now!

I found them on SJS Cycles, search for Jtek Special Thumb Shifter Brackets

It does help a lot! Thank you, make sense for that frame!

​@@thebikefelix After watching the video to the end however, it doesn't explain why the frame came with 531 forks 😅 ! The only reason I can think of is that Gazelle already had plenty of spare 531 forks in the factory and placed an order with Reynolds for the cheaper 531CS tubeset to mate the 531 frames and forks as a complete frameset, perhaps later using the leftover 501 forks with other 501 frames ... The alternative is that someone else (buyer/vendor) replaced the 501 forks aftermarket. Hmmm, not sure.

@@C345OFR i think the last one, because Dawes bikes used the same combination as Gazelle in those days (531 frame, 501 fork)

@@C345OFR Yes same I believe this is all original

Thank you 🥲

Thank you!

I don’t think it’s upside down, it came up exactly like this

Quite a common crank :) sadly not super serviceable with the ring being welded to the arm

Of trunk? Sorry I don’t know what you mean

@@thebikefelix bicycle rack

@@igorhaloszka7371it’s a pelago!

Thank you!

Thank you 😌

Thank you!

Haha it’s an interesting take on frame design, I think the triangle frame design was just a strength choice! But yes I’ve been there with the family jewels on the top tube 😅

If smashing your crown jewels "happens a lot" I think it says more about your riding skill rather than frame design.

@@ronwhite8503when I said happens a lot, I meant across the board, not to just one person, or in this case me. One can have good riding skills and still have an accident. I would suggest reading my comment again.

It’s a common practice to avoid seizing, trust me if you’ve ever had to deal with a stuck Seatpost or stem you would understand. It’s actually a common practise for any mechanical parts that needs to be serviced. The clamping is strong enough to not create friction.

@@thebikefelix i understand that you put the grease there to avoid seizing, thats totally clear. but my experience has been much different. i once had a bike that came with greased handlebar stem an greased bottom bracket axle from the factory. i could not for the life of me ever get the handle bars to stay in place and the cranks came loose that often, to the point they got totally destroyed. from that point on, i never put grease on those parts again. also, the seat post and handlebar stem basically are a "set and forget" thing. ever if they got seized, i never have to touch them again once they got adjusted correctly.

@@miko007 If those parts were greased and didn't hold up they were either incorrectly torqued or not the right ones. A seized seatpost or stem or BB should never be a thing. Even if it is your bike, you want to be able to service it in the future, or if you sell it the future riders might want a different stem or seat height. Also I don't use normal grease i use copper slip grease which is specifically used to avoid seizure, regular grease might act differently

@@thebikefelix okay copper anti-seize is a completly different story. thanks for the clarification, i could not infer that from the video!

I've been greasing both since the 70's and never had any trouble.

Thank you so much! I shoot eveything on my iPhone 13 Mini :)

Thanks for sharing your thoughts! I have done a record ace a wild ago, very nice frame too! You can probably upgrade your brakes, moving from side pull to centre pull will make a massive difference in braking performance :)

Thank you! They are indeed, same with the MAFAC, centre pull are just so good once setup properly

Hehe thanks for noticing!

I’ve always seen them installed like I did, if you do a quick google search you’ll see most of them are installed that way :)

@@thebikefelix no worries. Don't know how you do the adjustment, but there you go. Also, there's no way you can get the axle all the way into the dropout, the way you have it. Ideally one side is all the way in and the other is pushed forward ever so slightly.

@@robertdewar1752With semi-horizontal dropout, they are never fully in the slot because of the set screw, which he’s installed perfectly and as it was designed. But that’s what is nice about it, you can position it wherever you want to get the brake reach and handling desired. Also shifts are more accurate the further forward in the dropout.

@@allrounderbicycle7193 Yes, this is my point, you can't use it within the full range of the slot. Also, you can't position it wherever you want as the screw adjuster is on the inside. I've never seen wheel adjusters with the slot adjuster on the inside. The plain "cap" is designed to be just that - plain, so it doesn't foul on the axle, unlike the adjuster slot which does. If you remember bikes sold in the 70's and 80's, the adjuster and spring was always on the outside.

Thank you so much!!

Thank you so much! Comments like this drive me to do more :)

Thank you!

Merci!!

It’s because it’s in a bike stand, it’s clamped and moves a bit when you apply forces on it

Cheers! I use SKS Chromoplastics :)

They are on so many bikes indeed, I really like the centre pull version not so much the side pull ones

Haha I don’t know!

I plan to yes :)

Thank you! 🫶

Thank you! Absolutely! I ride a later royale model slightly modernised and I just love it!