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In the US we don't have fpdx which appears to be very similar to fdd2 except that it also includes the additional chuck attachments. It really depends on if you need the additional attachments, if so I would go with the fpdx.

Did you replace the purge valve with a GM one? If not and you used an aftermarket purge valve, there is a good chance that its bad as for some reason these vehicles in these years do not like the aftermarket purge vales. I have replaced some aftermarket ones in the past that only lasted about 100 miles. It still could be the vent valve, lines or the canister so first do a visual check for cracks...however if you didnt use the GM purge valve, I personally would replace the purge valve again and make sure to use the factory GM one: amzn.to/3JlpILB . If that doesn't work or you already installed the GM purge valve do the vent valve. Good luck.

The van would barely move in the drive and the transmission pump was whining bad as it was jammed up with metal shavings from a bad torque convertor. I did change the fluid first (see video: ua-cam.com/video/uXaypkj3bZ4/v-deo.html) and it did work for about 200 miles then it was back with the same problem. This transmission had more metal all throughout than I have ever saw so I decided to not rebuild (which is usually questionable even if it looks good) and just replaced with newer salvage transmission. I still replaced the torque converted as well as that is definitely the weak point in this transmission. See video here for the install as I talk about it a little more: ua-cam.com/video/TPm0eFli7wI/v-deo.html

Thanks for sharing!

@@TeamDIYNow painful to admit: I used 1-9/16” Bostich nails in PC gun. My bad. That caused jam. But I did have issues with Bostich nails in Milwaukee 18ga gun.

Agreed, Milwaukee makes some great tools!

Glad you liked the video! Thanks for sharing your experience with the Simpson and Bostich nails.

@@TeamDIYNowpainful to admit: The Bostich nails I used were 1-9/16”, not 1-1/2”. That caused the jam. But, I did have problems with them a few years back in my Milwaukee 18ga gun. On that, I cannot be certain whether or not size was issue. Simpson stainless are all I keep in van. It makes it impossible to accidentally use interior nails outside. Simpson have been perfect.

Thanks for sharing!

Yea it's hard to tell as most of Dewalt's claims have a few asterisk attached.

The bracket is built into the rack so you wont be able to just get a bracket. If need to get by temporarily if cant replace rack yet, you can maybe try to use a ratchet strap or maybe a large heavy-duty hose clamp to hold it down (go around the rack and frame). When the bracket breaks off the rack, the wheel will not turn on that side because as you move the steering wheel the rack is moving and not being able to move the inner tie rod out to the wheel. By using ratchet strap/clamp it keeps it in place. Very important, this can be very dangerous so do at your own risk but if need it to work for a day or two this is an option. Only reason I know it works as that is what my dad did on this vehicle to drive it to my house to replace the rack. Good luck.

@@TeamDIYNow Facts, that would be one honkin' hose clamp. Thank you again for your assistance and timely response, sir. May I ask your thoughts on the 3800 overall? I have a Lacrosse CXL 3.8, (160K, I'm eager to get this rack replaced); It seems to be a commonly overlooked gem from GMC.

@@taylorraykeough7634 Glad I was able to help. In regard to the 3800, it's an excellent engine and is argued by some to be one of the best (if not the best) engine GM has ever produced. These engines just keep going. This 04 GP in this video just crossed 400k recently and still on the same engine/transmission with nothing more than regular maintenance (neither have been rebuilt either). I use to have a 97 Park Ave Ultra that had about 240k on it when I sold it years ago and was still running perfect as well. Some of the early ones had plastic intakes and intake gaskets that were prone to failure, but 04+ GM fixed this by using an aluiminum upper intake and better gaskets. I have replaced about 10 series 2 3800 motors over the years and most failed because of the plastic intake and/or intake gaskets leaking coolant in the motor and either locking it up or overheating and throwing a rod. The others the owner ran it out of oil and it burned up. Things that are very easily preventable. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a car with the 3800 engine, it really is a great motor that is very cheap to maintain.

Replied back to your other comment. Good luck.

That bracket is part of the rack, when it breaks unfortunately you need to replace the whole rack. It's a critical piece as that is what is used to tighten the bolt to the frame in order to hold the rack in place.

@@TeamDIYNow Thank you, I did some good hard staring at it and realized that I will be okay. You are the man, I do expect things to be a breeze from here thanks to your video!

@@taylorraykeough7634 No problem, glad I was able to help!

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.

You're right that is an option if you need more room. With that said, you should be able to remove without removing the tie rod like I did at 08:56 on this 04 GP. Notice the orientation of how it came out, that is the only way it will come out so keep flipping it around till you have it in that position and it should slide out.

@@TeamDIYNow yeah, i tried that orientation and i agree with you, it does give you the most clearance but in my case i still needed a little bit more room, as when I got into that same position you have it in the video it just wouldn't budge all the way until i took the tie rod out.

Agreed. I showed the canister/location at 10:57 when I replaced the vent valve which is connected to the canister.

Thanks for the kind words! I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Yea I agree, I have a few of the Bosch 12v drills as well and really like the size. This Fuel screwdriver is going on maybe 10 years, I would hope soon Milwaukee comes out with a gen2 and is able to make it a little smaller.

Yup agreed!

Interesting, not sure why the 5ah isn't available in Vietnam as well.

I know the feeling, it's always tempting to buy on clearance! Come out of the store with things you didn't know you needed.

@TeamDIYNow it's like a disease or addiction, I cannot stop myself. 🤣🤣🤣 Looking at the price in your links, I got them at a bargain. I paid a fraction of the price.

@@m3rdpwr Haha. Yea the price is getting up there, but they truly are premium cabinets compared to others in the market.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.

Try putting some grease on those metal slides and other moving parts that pivot underneath the table. I have noticed on the more recent Toughbuilt tables, Toughbuilt puts a lot more grease on those pivot points.

Glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.

The wiring harness that connects to the reservoir holds the wiring for the oil pressure sensor. The sensor is right below the power steering pump and above the oil filter.

@TeamDIYNow thank you! So when i was trying to unclip it, the wires ripped directly out of the connector. Do you know how i should approach fixing this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated

@@gianacookie7577 If the wire came out of the terminal on the actual connector, you can use a terminal tool to remove the terminal, then re crimp it. Something similar to this tool will work ( amzn.to/4afZTsT ). Another option is to just replace the plug. Alot of the replacement connectors will come with the 3M heat shrink butt connector like this one here ( amzn.to/3PswnXc ). So you would cut off the excess wire on the vehicle and splice this new connector in and crimp the butt connector. After your done gently heat up the heat shrink, and it will form a waterproof seal. Hope this helps.

@@TeamDIYNow this helps a lot! Thank you so much

@@gianacookie7577 No problem, glad I was able to help.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.

No there is no filter to change when doing a transmission service on this transmission as its considered a lifetime filter by GM. All you can do is drain/refill the fluid like shown in the video. You can only replace the filter if doing a transmission rebuild which is why it's important to change the fluid every 30-50k (transmission disassembly is required to service filter).

Glad you liked the video! If the leak is right at the 90 on the return line (rubber hose part) and you're looking for a quick fix, you can try cutting out that rubber part and replace with a new hose and clamp on the line and pump side to see if that works. If looking to replace the lines, I would make sure you replace both if doing 1 of them as there is a good chance the other is leaking as well. Other than the location of where they connect and are bent/routed there really isn't any difference between the two lines. First make a note which one goes where on the frame clips that hold the lines and on the PS rack. The fittings on the lines and rack are different sizes for the pressure/return line and wont let you install wrong; however it will save you the hassle of trying to fit your hand up on the rack to figure out which one goes on which connection. The connections on the rack side are probably the hardest part of the job since it's a tight fit. Check out my other video on installing a power steering rack as I talk about using either crowfoot or stubby wrench as it will help get those line connections remove (ua-cam.com/video/3InbUU0jpec/v-deo.html). Also, make sure you get the lines attached in each of the clips that hold the lines down...you will notice they will not allow the metal part of the line to touch the frame or any other metal part. If they do, you can get a noise from them after install. I would remove both lines first, then route both in place loosely and connect first on the rack, then work yourself back to the pump and connect the lines in the clips then finally attach lines to pump. The last thing don't be afraid to slightly bend/form the metal part of the line in place if its not sitting exactly where you need it...just don't bend it so much that it kinks the line. Hope this helps.

The one under my bench is the older 52" GATR5210WG model that has unfortunately been discontinued. I bought it maybe 10 years ago, and when I wanted to get another about 5 years ago it wasn't available anymore, so I bought the other 41" model also shown in the video. I like them both, but that extra 10 inches really helps store a lot more stuff on the top shelf. Here is an older link at Lowes, maybe you can find a used one somewhere: www.lowes.com/pd/Gladiator-38-78-in-x-51-97-in-10-Drawer-Ball-bearing-Steel-Tool-Chest-Silver/50381168

@TeamDIYNow aw damn, oh well, thanks for the info! Loved the video btw, very informative. I've been looking at setting these up for a while now but just haven't pulled the trigger. There's a bunch of 20% off deals on their website right now so I was thinking about making the investment.

​@floridaman888 Glad you liked it, thanks for watching! They are definitely worth it especially when on sale.

The thermostat is around $150-$200 for this Rheem water heater. To get installed by a plumber, you're probably looking at around $500.

If the transmission was up to the correct temperature (185-203°F), then it would be ok as you need to remove the plug with the engine running. However, I have seen it numerous times where side mechanics just open it up and treat it like a transfer case, if fluid doesn't come out they keep filling and vice versa. This will only cause problems. The problem is, if the transmission (not the engine temp on the dash) is not up to the correct temp then you will get either and under or over fill. On some vehicles, in order to get the transmission up to the correct temp you may need to have the vehicle running at idle for over 30-45 mins before the transmission will get up to 185 degrees. Here is the correct GM process to check the fluid and/or add: (1) Start the engine. (2) Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about 3 seconds in each range. Then move the shift lever back to PARK (P). Allow the engine to idle 500-800 rpm for at least 3 minutes to allow any fluid foaming to dissipate and the fluid level to stabilize. Release the brake pedal. Note: If the transmission fluid temp (TFT) reading is not at the required temperature, allow the vehicle to cool, or operate the vehicle until the appropriate TFT is reached. If the fluid temperature is below the specified range, perform the following procedure to raise the fluid temperature to the specification. Drive the vehicle in second gear until the fluid temperature is at the specified temperature. Some models have display on the dash showing the transmission fluid temp if not equipped then you will need scan tool. (3) Keep the engine running and observe the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) using the Driver Information Center or a scan tool. Caution: The transmission fluid level must be checked when the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) is at 85-95°C (185-203°F). If the TFT is not at this temperature, operate the vehicle or allow the fluid to cool as required. Setting the fluid level with a TFT outside this temperature will result in either an under or over-filled transmission. TFT 95°C under-filled, TFT 85°C over-filled. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage. An over-filled transmission will cause fluid to discharge out the vent tube, fluid foaming, or pump cavitation. (4) Raise the vehicle on a hoist. The vehicle must be level, with the engine running and the shift lever in the PARK range. (5) While the vehicle is idling, remove the oil level set plug on the left side of transmission. Allow any fluid to drain. (6) If the fluid is flowing as a steady stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip. (7) If no fluid comes out, add fluid until fluid drips out.

Glad you liked the video! Yea I'm sure there are a lot of these out there where people are calling plumbers and wasting money when all they have to do is turn down the dial!

The runtime will be the same for the 8ah HO vs 8ah Forge to keep the blower on. With that said, the biggest difference is the runtime to keep the blower on vs runtime to give you full power. This is where you will see the biggest difference between the Forge and the other XC batteries in regard to the power for the entire runtime. Typically, on some of the traditional batteries, when the battery gets down to around 20% or so you can definitely tell the output is a lot less, so you switch out the battery before its dead. You won't feel that with the Forge, as its advertised full power all the way to 0% charge. If the HO is a lot cheaper, you will be happy with it with the blower. However, if around the same price (or free with purchase like it has been lately) I would definitely go with the Forge as the blower and trimmer are also tools that consume a lot of power (probably more than sawzalls, drills, etc). Hope this helps.

@@TeamDIYNow Thank you for explaining. You have helped me decide on the Forge. My vacuum will definitely decrease in rpm and sucking power when the regular battery drains down to the last 2 lights on the battery.

@@garypitzer8729 No problem, glad I was able to help.

Glad I was able to help! Thanks for subscribing I greatly appreciate it!

Haha yea they do come in handy in tight locations!

Glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching.

Yes it should come centered already, however double check it by comparing to the old one.

Agree they work great! The Anchor set is on Rockauto here: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13401477&cc=1429703&pt=11844&jsn=1698 . Here is a similar one on Amazon: amzn.to/4gtso8N .

@ Found the set on EBay; thanks though

@@jeffb243 No problem, glad I was able to help.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

Good to know the temp increments. Yea I know what you mean the 120 is almost too hot for me as well...especially in the summer.

@@TeamDIYNow OHHH, in the summer I wish I could turn it off, cause I'm in the desert heat 115 to 120 degrees.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

Correct the sawmax in the demo was used vs the new Dewalt, however it wouldn't have changed the outcome.

Yea you're right its not always accurate, however some of the serial number/date codes are not valid numbers on some of the fakes. If they do copy a legit one, I agree its not going to work unless Dewalt figures out a way to keep track of batteries/serial numbers already sold/registered and if that number comes up again then it's not valid. The software companies have been doing this for 25+ years.