Відео

I stopped making videos due to lack of time/motivation but I still enjoy the boards. For the raw alu, everything else is fine, but I found that the one spot where I rest my thumb against the board under the space has darkened and gotten rough. Eventually I might get it all polished back up again but I guess I'll consider it patina for now.

Personally I am partial to Cherry profile so I still prefer GMK over anything else

@@zerobladehonmono what does GMK mean? is it a type of cherry profile?

動画を上げてから8ヶ月くらい経ちましたがスコアが全然伸びてない、、、

@@zerobladehonmono ファイトです

Thank you! I'm actually using it right now, though I went back to lavenders on an FR4 plate

🥳

DJ Max Respect! It's on Steam.

@@zerobladehonmono Thanks sirr

Much as I love these charming slipjoints, I just can't bring myself to pay more than retail haha. Was just able to grab one at SRP since I've been trained with these first-come-first-served drops.

@@zerobladehonmono I have disposable income now, but I still like a bargain. I don't buy many GEC's and focus on what I believe are undervalued vintage pocketknives. My collection was overflowing so I had to build some new wood shelving. The shelves look nice and are square and level.

@@zerobladehonmono Just a couple weeks ago I picked up a SOG Paratool that was customized by Brian Yellowhorse in 1995 for about what I have to pay for a GEC on the secondary market.

No shims, but the washers fit just fine for me!

It's actually a v1.1! Made a mistake with the overlay...

It's DJMax Respect on Steam!

Thanks! I believe it's the 0.15 thickness (the tealios were from an NK65 that a friend sold me)

Yeah, though I'm not sure how long that will take. I would like it to be as "plain" alu as long as possible, but I might have it cerakoted to a glossy finish or something if/when that happens.

some one in my discord's already corroded, thats why im now hestitatant to get one too lol

I originally used a spare gat ink stab which ticked like crazy, but it was fine after swapping it out for a TX stab. If it's physically hitting the spacebar, maybe try to nudge the internals upwards a little. Typical problem with a gasket mounted board that doesn't have any sort of locating pins to fixate its position.

This is a super late reply, but are you using the stabs that came with the kit? I have the same issue, but I think it's something rubbing in the stabs and not the spacebar hitting the case. If you push the spacebar forward a bit, the sound goes away. But if you pull the spacebar forward a bit the sound comes back. The stabs provided had a different clipin method for the wire. I'm going to try using some tx stabs and see if it fixes the issue at all.

I just got it through a local seller. Might be able to find one if you search for mini deskmats or something.

look up keebmat for something similar

Thanks for watching and the sub! The hotswap really isn't too bad sounding but soldered is really where its at. It really brings out the clacky signature that Geon boards are generally optimized for. Hopefully the rest of the 722 units ship soon! I was lucky and managed to get one of the earliest shipments back in December. I said this would be my last board but after this I am tempted to get in on the OG F1 GB later this year... The game is DJ Max Respect, should be available on Steam!

www.lazada.com.ph/products/keyb-mat-felt-rubber-x-md-custom-mousepad-minimat-keyboard-mat-keeb-coaster-i3376822317-s17215347922.html? It's a generic deskmat that's sized to fit for TKLs. Your local online retailer might have something similar!

Crazy right? I'm thinking maybe it's the plastic of the hotswap sockets that are sort of absorbing some of that sound and making it lose some of its body

@@zerobladehonmono I think it's the flex cuts in the hotswap pcb, there's 2 long flex cuts on it :/ I tried taping them and it didn't help either

@@Theipodrookie I taped the flex cuts as well on the Apollo PCB, thinking it would solve the issue like it did for the Mammoth 75 and its flex cuts, but it didn't really do anything either. I'm guessing that perhaps the hotswap sockets being plastic absorbed some of the sound, or maybe the soldering lets the switch sound travel better against the PCB? Not too sure but if it works, it works lol.

What do you think causes the difference in sound between the hotswap and solder pcb?

@@SnackGuy I'm guessing it's the hotswap sockets absorbing some of the sound of the switch hitting the PCB, and the connection of the switches with the PCB being less "solid"

Yooo, you’re absolutely right. I had some vint blacks in a hotswap PCB and was shocked that it was so quiet. It’s just a quieter PCB AND the switches aren’t sitting in as firmly, causing it to be quieter.

@@Havesomepizza I have two other videos with zakus on solder+alu and broken in retooled blacks on plateless! This hotswap build was a letdown but the other builds are just worlds apart!

this was also the board to end all board purchases for me haha! realistically that's probably not happening though... i still want to get my hands on OG F1 just to compare too. what are you planning to build yours with?

thats what they all say…

@@zerobladehonmono you still need the matrix to beat this lol its really good

this was from the group buy and honestly there's lots of little scratches/imperfections on it, just comes with it being the raw finish i guess. unfortunately i'm still waiting for a few GMK GBs to fulfill for the next few vtuber builds LOL

Thank you! I should be getting the PCB back from soldering in a day or two, hopefully have an updated video out by the end of the year or so. It'll be Zakus with the same v1 plate + galatea solder PCB. Originally planned to get some broken in MX Blacks but I really need to use up my switches first before getting even more...

@@zerobladehonmono I actually have 90x Ultraglides that I accidentally bought 😂lmk if you’re interested! I’ll give you a good deal

@@thekeebman Hey man, thanks for the offer haha! I decided to go with Zakus that I still had lying around, (ua-cam.com/video/luXfz6Lfvls/v-deo.html) though I am somewhat considering doing a soldered plateless build with broken in blacks at some point.

@@zerobladehonmono does solder pcb usually sound better?

@@Vinnyy_zip I have another video with a solder build of the board if you'd like to compare! (ua-cam.com/video/luXfz6Lfvls/v-deo.html ) While I can't say that solder will necessarily sound different or better than a hotswap PCB, I did find that I preferred the solder build for this particular board. Just got another solder PCB as well so I can do a plateless build too, so hopefully I can get that out by next week or so.

Thank you! 🙏

guess whattt

Thanks! I planned to put Olivia on it but I mean, everyone's seen that anyway (also I don't really have any other spare sets to put on lol)

@@zerobladehonmono good choice! Haha earned a sub as well!

fr it is stupidly heavy (in a good way). It's not even a brass "weight" anymore the entire bottom is literally brass. I do wish they machined some sort of way to get a good grip on the board though, since it only slopes inward so you have to grab it by the bottom.

@@zerobladehonmono agreed, I saw the way you were picking up on board and I'm doing the same. The FR4 you used in the first build was this the fixed one with the flexcuts? my currently config with PC, platefoam is a tad too flexi for me on the alphas but I didnt want to add the PE foam as the sound will be more muted

but... why not?