Відео

Agreed it's overkill, but that's what makes this hobby fun. It's a chance to try stupid things and live like a kid again.

@@BillsWorkbenchcouldn’t have said it better

Fingers Crossed. But it's a rather small ESC.

I went with this one: Flysky GMr Receiver, 2.4GHz 4CH AFHDS 3 amzn.to/4eGILxv. You will still need a brushed ESC.

There’s no mounting holes on the mini z

@@Wadinator that sucks but maybe company’s will make conversation parts so they can mount different moters if not you can always 3d print a mount if you cant find a moter to fit 🙂

There is not much room for a different motor, but I got some ideas. The pinion will become the issue.

I'll take a look

Mine is too. Three things. 1. Make sure that your ST knob on the right of the radio is turned up all the way. That is steering rate. 2. There is a turnbuckle kit from Losi Performance that may help, you would need to give it a bit of toe in. 3. There is some space between the end of the servo horn and the frame that I might have enough room to make a 3d printed part to extend the arm. That's a project for this week, while waiting on the motor to arrive.

i'll try the turnbuckles

No there is no slipper it's a planetary diff inside.

That is a neat looking car. That motor (12000kv micro 130) is too large it's 16mm in diameter. It's got to be 12mm.

That’s what I was thinking

No, the only one I could find was a generic 1220 brushless motor. You need a maximum 12mm diameter can. The Hobbywings are 15mm. I have it on order; I want to ensure it fits. before I get everyone excited about ordering a motor that will not work. Subscribe to keep an eye on this exciting build?

@@jacobemry1018 The radio conversion will not but it will be better because I will not need to take another radio with me to the track. There are also more settings in the radio, like a throttle curve that makes me quicker. The brushless motor will either make this thing a rocket ship, or not. There is only one way to find out, and that is to try it.

@@MostlyRCSlovakia you must be a mind reader. I have a controller from MN models that will work with any radio. It’s on the bench.

@@rustandoil I agree, that is going to take some research. I am thinking an interview with an expert. Stay tuned.

I found that all I needed to do to get it to fit was remove that middle tab. But I am off to a different transmission now. I am trying out the 2 speed one. Man that is a project.

Thank you.

@@BillsWorkbench Showing my age if I mention "Crystals"? 😂😂

@@rustandoil 27mhz or 75mhz?

@@BillsWorkbench UK.... So 27mhz for land based models and 35mhz for aircraft...

Thank you that was in the intention of the video.

@@BillsWorkbench 😁👍🏻

Glad it was helpful!

@@BillsWorkbench Awesome thank you 😊

Wow, looks like MN Model is getting their act together on the higher end crawlers.

Here are the shocks I used INJORA 53mm Rear Shocks: amzn.to/3MaUTuw INJORA 59MM Shocks: amzn.to/4fNvC78

These are the shocks I ended up using in the next video. These actually work: INJORA 53mm Rear Shocks: amzn.to/3MaUTuw INJORA 59MM Shocks: amzn.to/4fNvC78

Here is the link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6583971

Yes, the old links on the new MN99s V2 are very different. The 82 links are also different. I don't have an 86 to compare. Looking on the tube, the 86 seems to be a 128.

Awesome = Faster = Awesome

It could be many different things. 1. These are not waterproof. If you go in the mud or water, they could be fried. 2. You must have your radio on first before turning on the MN-128 or other MN model crawler 3. If the crawler's lights are blinking, it means it can't find the controller (transmitter). 4. There is a light somewhere on the transmitter. Could you make sure it's lit up? Could you check the batteries in the transmitter? 5. Depending on how rough you are with the battery connector or wire, it may break or come loose from the radio board. That is an easy check. I would check this if the lights on the crawler are not lighting up. Hope this helps.

Nice! How is your Land Rover handling the mighty tails with the upgrades?

@@BillsWorkbench Not fitted any yet. Still stock and very impressed with it. Only mods I’ve done so far is remove the rear roof to make it short cab and remove front bumper and spare tyres so it doesn’t want to tip back on climbs.

@@SabretoothCreations I picked up the shorter roof for my "green one" and will soon make a video on installing and painting it. I like the look. My front bumper broke off, so that was an "Easy Upgrade." It is rather top-heavy. I wonder how much better it crawls if I strip the body down to nothing. Hummm.....

@@BillsWorkbench uploaded a couple of shorts earlier on my channel. Yeah was too heavy with the full roof and spare wheel. Metal upgrades to install and order new beadlocks with tyres.

@@SabretoothCreations Nice work!

Thank you!

No, the links are different. However, the design of the new links doesn't have the same problem as the old links. The connection in the new version is much better.

I still have clearance issues with the front end, i do need to figure something out for that. The rear end seems to be fine.

Thank you for the thoughtful response. Regarding open source, I had an Ender 3 Pro for many years and upgraded the heck out of it. These days I use my printer as a tool, and I tinker with what I print. I want a printer that prints without me thinking about the printer. The Bambu fits that bill. Yes, the NewMatter was “closed” source, and the XYZ to some extent. That’s why my third printer was the Ender. After a bunch of upgrades the Ender became a nice printer, the Bambu is nicer. So, I guess I drank the flavor aid, but it’s tasty and it’s working for me. That’s why we have choice. Thank you again for taking the time to comment.

Thumbs up back at ya!

Woot!

Hope you enjoy it! The metal suspension links are different between the version. But the new version plastic ones are just fine, they don’t have the slop the old version had. The Shocks should work out just fine.

The battery upgrade I did on the old version works well on the new. but it takes soldering and new connectors.

I used this, I could not find a kit so I needed to purchase two 4 packs. INJORA 53mm Rear Shocks: amzn.to/3MaUTuw INJORA 59MM Front Shocks: amzn.to/4fNvC78

Here is the link: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6583971

@@BillsWorkbench thx 🫶 how big do you scale it up? It’s very small if you open it on cura..

@@ZM60 10

I tried brushless on this transmission but the gears are 1:1. The gears that do the work are actually attached to the motor. Brushless this thing was a rocket ship with no low end. I have a 2 speed coming. we will see what that does.

@@BillsWorkbench i have the metal 2speed. It shift oke with the right servo. It’s fun to do and it give a good torque in LOW and a littile bit more speed in HIGH than the stock gearbox. If this die ill try the wpl with metal gears what i have here. Good luck it’s fun to tweak this rc’s👍

@@jveenendaal4254@jveenendaal4254 I went with this 2-speed gearbox. It looks cool. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkPlIef. Of course, it hasn't shipped yet.

@@BillsWorkbench looks like a 1:1 replica fully metal wpl 2 speed

I don't have one of those. I do have a Losi mini-B and a classic RC10. What are improvements are you looking to make?

You are correct, I was able to get it to work after cutting off one of the tabs underneath and tilting it just a little. I need to design and print a tunnel for the longer driveshaft connector underneath. I think that with a proper tunnel it would go over things better.

​@@BillsWorkbenchnice good to hear it

Sorry to hear that. I guess I got lucky. I am sure you tested the power supply. If I can think of anything else I will be sure to reply here

A collet is a set size. If you change to a different attachment or drill bit, you may need to change the collet as well. A chuck is adjustable and can fit any size, but it is not as accurate and may have a wobble.

most likely, but I was not expecting that speed from a 1120kv motor.

@@BillsWorkbenchOHK thanks alot 👍

It’s never enough! :)

My pleasure! I am happy to help and happy to hear you are starting the hobby. The new version of the MN 99s is a great starting kit. It preforms well out of the box and has some tinkering aspects to make is different. My first upgrade for min will be shocks. I am getting the 59mm Injorna ones.

@@BillsWorkbench Cheers Bill, it's not my first unfortunately 🤔😓😓 I have various 😂😂 like we all do, my favourite being The CRP 18 EVO PRO, it's a great little crawler but I wanted something cheap I can tinker with and use in my garden, when it's not raining 😂 I went for the looks on the 99s as I'm English and it's a classic car and the details on it look quite good 👍

@@conwah3697 That's what caught my eye: the Land Rover body. I hope they make a classic one like a series 1 or 2 someday. I have the FMS, but it's too nice.

It does look cool, but it was so sticky.

@@killerbee10ify they are in order.

Although the motor I used "worked" it was not good from crawling. It was great for trail and high speed stuff. It lacked low end control. I am trying a new motor from Injora, but I am still waiting on the ESC. I will have a video on that adventure soon.

But to answer your question. You need to find a motor with a 2mm shaft and 15-16mm spacing for the mounting screws. You will need to file the motor mount with a rat tail file to make it work as well. The length of the motor is also important no more than 55mm.