Відео

Thanks!

Maybe contact the company for bulk pricing?

Silicon dioxide is quite literally ceramic.

Crankcase -> oil catch can -> air intake.

Wow thanks so much!

Indeed. Thanks.

Indeed. Well said. I'll be doing a 1,000 mile update soon to see what this K&N oil catch can captured.

@@OptimizedDIY Great, I will be looking forward to your 1000-mile update. I installed a UPR catch can last year. I don't drive the Yukon during the winter months, so all I find in the can is a small amount of what looks like oil. If you live in a colder climate in the winter, you will find a milkier substance in the can. Not sure if this is caused by condensation in the engine or from the heat of the can when engine is off, and condensation within the can itself mixing with the dropped contents. Catch cans do work, and I would recommend one on any direct injection engine. They should have come from the factory with one. In my Yukon, I purchased some transmission rubber lines and some OEM quick release fittings to be able to mount my catch can in the area where an extra battery would have been placed. Added some plastic loom on the lines and a few clips to make the install look like a factory catch can. Turned out really well, and access to the can is much easier to reach. Those quick release factory fittings are not cheap. If I could, I would have used the ones that came with the shorter lines, but the UPR catch can came with an upgrade braded line and there was no way to remove the quick release fittings without doing damage to them. With the longer transmission lines and fittings, I added about 120 dollars more to the install. Oh well, it looks good and that makes it worth the extra costs to me. The main reason I did the change was because the set up with the short lines were in the way of the oil fill cap on the valve cover. If you have a newer truck, your set up may be different. On my 2017 5.3 Yukon and the catch can mount on the fire wall brace bolt, the lines were in the way of the oil fill cap. Anyway, hope your K&N catch can works well for you. I am sure it will, K&N makes great products.

Thanks for sharing!

Yea it can be tough to identify a perfect day for the job. Ideally overcast and low humidity.

Indeed!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comment. A few thoughts: 1. As I noted in the video, Motorplast is not very slippery at all. 2. Slippery doesn't automatically mean silicone. You're making a lot of leaps in logic here. 3. Koch-Chemie is a reputable, premium brand. Motorplast is literally designed as an engine bay dressing. That is its only purpose. 4. We could contact Koch-Chemie and ask them, but these guys say it does not contain silicone: autobuff.com.au/products/koch-chemie-motorplast-engine-bay-dressing I don't know the exact ingredients either, but let's not speculate and draw faulty conclusions from assumptions.

Not really. That rubber gasket seats against the underside of the hood when closed so imagine that little corner is basically enclosed when the hood is shut. But even if it gets a little water on it, that's not an issue. The filter is also oiled. As for dirt, the point of any filter is to filter out dirt; all filters of all kinds - even the restrictive OEM systems - come in contact with quite a lot of dust and debris.

@@OptimizedDIY good to know thanks

I don't get it.

Glad to hear it!

Totally agree! If I had just bought a used car with 100k miles and wasn't sure if the throttle body had ever been cleaned and I wanted to do a deep clean, I'd definitely take it off. For a quick maintenance cleaning every oil change, I'm not taking it off.

@@OptimizedDIY I clean mine every 30k miles and do fuel system cleaning or anytime I change spark plugs witch is usually 100k miles

Sounds good!

I've heard this and yes, absolutely always best to be safe, err on the side of caution, and check manuals, but I've been doing it this way for nearly 20 years on all my different cars I've owned (including Mercedes), and all the certified mechanics I've talked to do it this way too, so probably a little overblown.

No

I did read that people had problems with the hose length for the F150 model. Thanks for sharing.

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2014+ GM LT-based engines are direct injected. The back side of the intake valves get caked with carbon deposits from oil vapors in the PCV system due to the absence of port injectors continually spraying and washing the valves down with fuel. Over time the deposits get severe enough to affect performance. A catch can prevents that by forcing the oil vapors to coalesce and collect in the can rather than going into the intake manifold and eventually intake valve ports. My 2013 GMC Sierra 6.0 also has a catch can that gets filled up over time, so it's beneficial for port-injected engines as well.

These engines are DI.

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Not according to all the review/update videos I've seen on it. We'll see. I'll do an update video on it in the future.

I’ve applied to a vehicle here in the Mexican Caribbean which has a higher UV index than anywhere in the US. It has lasted almost 2 years ( finally showing signs of wear after 18 months ) I have used Dlux, Gtechniq C4 and Qyeon Q2 Trim. This lasts as longer if not longer. I was rather suprised and pleased@@OptimizedDIY

​@@OptimizedDIYcerakote can last minimum of 1 year, that jason douche dont know anything

Thanks for sharing, Robert!

@@renogunzddragon1900 Thought so. :)

Thanks for the feedback. I figure people would rather not have their time wasted with unnecessarily long stories and explanations.

Thanks for the kind words! And for the subscribe. Install video coming soon!

Totally

@@OptimizedDIY😂

Didn't feel the need to. I'd do it and take a picture for you but I realized I don't even have the right size bit for these tiny screws.

Probably, but this is what anyone is going to see when opening the hood. This just happens to be the engine bay on this Lexus. I opened the hood, that's what I was presented with, and I cleaned it. This wasn't my car so I wouldn't have felt comfortable just removing panels at my discretion anyway. Maybe I'll do another video on a different car with "actual engine" parts and no plastic covers.

How so?

Thanks for the kind words!

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Schrodinger's cat. If you don't remove the plastic panels, is it clean or dirty underneath? ;)

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1. As explained, all connections are water tight on any vehicle in the past 30 years or so. 2. That's also why I mentioned covering the battery and alternator, but even that is not absolutely necessary. 3. You're not encountering any "electricity." 4. Water also happens to be a pretty poor conductor. 5. I'd never use a greasy tire dressing on engine parts.

Highly personal preference, I suppose. I personally don't like the glossy look and feel.

Another $40 for it, it seems.

Awesome! Thanks for sharing.

Haha. I'll get on that.

Haha. Debatable.

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