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Thanks a lot! That would be great bonding time for you two. I grew up in the shop getting trained by my father. I have two other brothers that have had the same experience with our father. I love working with family. I’m going to start publishing more videos soon I promise. I plan on doing a complete build from start to finish within a year I will be starting these videos. Stay tuned man I’m coming back for more training for everyone.

@BlackStacheBuilds awesome can't wait! I've been a Ford parts manager all my life so been around cars and fairly handy just want to learn as much as possible and help my son. This was his 1st car his grandpa bought him when he was 14. It's gonna be a street strip type build turbo LS Yada Yada lol.

Ya bro! You got a whole roof done with your Da in one hour! Dam! That is way fast bro! It would take atleast 3 hours so you did good but ya you would be able to strip a whole car in 3 hours if your that fast with this method. It’s just a rotisserie one direction a da is duel action meaning it spins like a polisher but also rotating in a small circle. So I use 80 grit on this video. 120 grit will work well too.

Not down to bare metal, just took off the clear and base. Your method is much quicker. So it's just a 80 grit pad on the rotary?

220 really is really as course as you want to go on any material besides bare metal. 320 is great too. 400 grit is final step if you are applying sealer right before a base or topcoat. But if you are talking what grit to use before you prime over bare metal or body filler work then 220 on a da is perfect

That is freaking awesome man. That is why I train people on here so I get input like this. You just made my day man thanks for

What are you saying in this comment can you reword it?

Ya it really works very well. If someone has messed up the metal I would go over the effected area with a new piece of 80 grit on my da and blow it off really good then skim coat it with metal glazing puddy ( plastic body filler glaze) and block it down straight before primer

Just use 80 grit on your DA. Don’t use the polisher it will cut the shape out of your fiberglass

@@BlackStacheBuilds if you don’t mind answering, what stuff are you recommending after sanding the fiber glass?? Epoxy primer than 2k primer? What brands do you use?

What are you asking

@@BlackStacheBuilds I guess what I’m trying to know is if I strip the paint of does it need to be poxy right after ? I’m not trying paint yet how long after stripping paint do I have to paint it

@@BlackStacheBuilds do you have a business number ?

I am keeping the DA flat. Should I tilt it and dig into the metal?

The polisher with 80 grit is what you need

@whojackson so are you using the polisher? If your taking to bare metal then yes you can dig on the edge

​@@BlackStacheBuilds Yeah I am using BAUER 5.7 Amp 6 in. Short-Throw Random Orbit DA Polisher/Sander. I am using 80 grit pads I got from amazon called SACKORANGE. Its fine to tilt the polisher on its edge? It wont gouge the metal? I did it on a small section and it goes to bare metal within seconds.

Glad you liked it!

Anytime!!!

You’re welcome 😊

Yup it would work great

My methods of stripping I use a small polisher for small areas that my big polisher won’t reach

It can go super fast but I’m sure I run it at 2500 rpm’s at its max and slower for curved areas and edges

Ya that would work for sure!. This product just eliminates the use of etch primer so you use less material and you get it done faster.

@@BlackStacheBuilds i bought the Harbor freight 7 inch polisher after watching this video. A little cheaper than the hitachi. Do you have a video where you discuss all steps for a DIY paint job ? Sand to bare metal with 80 grit, Epoxy Prime, Sand again ? Epoxy 2nd coat ? Also, what is an alternative primer to epoxy ?

Yes I’ve used it over and over again. It works very well and helps with doing less and spending less.

@@BlackStacheBuilds Awesome, glad the results have been repeatable. Thinking we are going to have to track some down and give it a shot 🤘🏻

Definitely

Glad you think so!

Hitachi polisher and Norton sanding discs

Thanks for watching

This plastic adhesion promoter is made to go on all plastics before any sealer or primer. You can seal it first before your base coat.

​@@BlackStacheBuildsis this with textured plastic?

I really was amazed how well it adhered to that trailer

I think around 3k

Acetone I think is 5-10% and 80 grit to prep before epoxy if it’s bare metal

Same grit for high build for bare.

Yup

I’m not sure if you can buy it on line. There should be a paint supply store near you that sells ppg brand paint. They will be able to track down anything you need. Thanks for watching my videos

Mlw2438-22

I don’t recommend using it. It’s aircraft stripper. It can burn you badly and the new formulation of it doesn’t work as good as the old one.

Underside is a different animal lol. All the pockets and edges take a long time to sand as it is. Mechanically stripping it down would take days to do. Do not use liquid paint stripper on the underside of it. If the paint isn’t pealing and is in good shape then I would pressure wash it off and clean it good then just prep it out for paint. If you need to take all the paint off and start over I’d recommend sandblasting it but make sure to stay a few feet away when using a highly effective blaster. It can warp the steel and cause a wavy surface on the topside.

120 grit would work great but you would have to go back with 80 grit for filler work.

Thanks for watching my video

@@BlackStacheBuilds that's true, what I was working on just needed striping, no metal work. I have a Mustang now that crazed bad on the hood and I'll use this same method, with respirator.

I’ll have to make one of the whole process thanks for watching my videos

Aluminum is softer so I wouldn't recommend this method for it. I'd only use a DA with 80 grit to strip aluminum. 80 grit goes pretty fast if it hasn't been painted a couple times.

@@BlackStacheBuilds It still has the military CARC paint on it...I hear it's a BEAR to sand...and Carcinogenic to breath...so respirator for sure, but I'll give the DA a go. Thanks!

You can use 80 on your corners but not with this machine. Use a DA sander for that

Epoxy before filler is better

@BlackStacheBuilds I've done my bonnet in epoxy, and then do repairs as you said. One part at a time at this stage as I'm just a one man army. But thank you for the info

Quick question after this I use poxy ? I’m not painting for a couple months can I leave it like that ??

Yes it will chew off the paint still it might get gummy on the sanding disc. You might have to use more sand paper than normal

@@BlackStacheBuilds thank you so much I’m gonna try that

80 grit is the best to clean it to bare steel. The steel will be prepared with 80 grit so you can either prime it or add filler to it

@@BlackStacheBuilds then after 80 with wat grit can I use to primer it

Your steel will be ready for primer with 80 grit. 80 grit on bare steel is great for primer

@@BlackStacheBuilds ok thank you

@@BlackStacheBuilds i just had 3 people to sand the body with 220 or 320 than primer

Sandblasting is definitely the way to go but it can warp the outer skin of your pannels cause of the heat. So you would have to be cautious and blast atleast a few feet away