Відео

My cam is a TSP VVT-2 from 2010 (they've changed their specs since) and the specs are 227/235 duration @0.050 and .614/.621 lift with a 113LSA (5 degrees of overlap). The BTR red hot cam is advertised to be 221/24X, .619/.617, 113 LSA. Since they don't give the exhaust duration, I don't know how much overlap it has, but it's somewhere between 4.5 and 9deg of overlap (assuming exhaust is 240-249 duration).

@@funnyvids7094 Yes

Unfortunately the size of a car means there is a lot of surface area for heat to come through, not to mention all the windows and doors that are difficult to seal completely. You can however make a big improvement with insulation, especially on the firewall, tunnel, and floor where the engine heat tends to bake the interior. These olds cars aren't engineered to be sealed up or insulated like new cars - plenty can be done 👍

The POA valve has a #12 o ring outlet. I used an Original Auto Air aka Classic Auto Air PN G13-407 Shepard's hook which takes it down to #10 barrier hose. Another option I tried that did not fit well was Nostalgic Auto Air PN G135. See post #1565 and #1579 of this thread for info and photos ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/1329686-70-nova-ly6-th400-6-0vvt.html

See post #1565 and #1579 of this thread for info and photos ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/1329686-70-nova-ly6-th400-6-0vvt.html

Sorry to disappoint. You can find his build thread on ls1tech. Search for 71 Nova Build

@@thebandit4393 UA-cam video series??

I suggest you visit Steve's Nova Site. In the forum for Best of Electrical there is a thread with links to all the available wiring diagrams for each year

I have not experienced a freeze up. I know some people go even slightly lower on the pressure. I suspect the expansion valve control of superheat would keep freeze-up from happening since the outlet temperature is kept a few degrees above the saturation temperature.

That is great to know, your info is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I agree one of those would be a nice upgrade. Since this video was taken I switched to a Grant Corsa GT which is a low buck wheel similar to the Monte Carlo. I plan to upgrade to a nicer wheel like a Momo, Nardi, or Sparco. One I particularly like is the Nardi Gara 3/0. There aren't many steering wheels that look right in this car and also have the ergonomics and gauge visibility that I prefer. The old Grant Challenger wheel in the video had a nice thick grip but the overall diameter and spokes weren't ideal.

I like that idea and it's easy enough to do. The long sensing lines are unfortunately due to the lack of available replacements with the proper length.

Ceramic coat headers keeps the heat down also [cannot see in vid] . Engine bay fibre glass evap boxes suffer from poor insulation typical GM . I used sticky f/glass insulation with a foil face to cover the box .

I do have ceramic coated headers but a heat barrier like DEI Firewall and Tunnel Shield would be a great addition. The trick is there just isn't much space between the AC suitcase and the engine for that on my car.

If you're a bigger guy (like me) you want the Rally XL. The seat on the XL is 12" wide (Seat NOT including the bolsters) instead of the 10" the regular Rally is. Seat diagrams with dimensions are on the Procar website.

They make a XL version

@@letsgotomarsman the "xl" version has bolsters that dig in for a man of my size unfortunately

Never edited the install footage. I love this box though. It is heavy but I like that. Got used to it pretty quickly. The ratio was a small improvement on tight courses, but the main difference is the feedback and fun I have driving it.

Yes I really enjoy it every time I get in the car. It didn't take long for me to get used to the added effort in parking lots and it's a ton of fun to drive! I don't think this heavy of a t-bar is for everyone, but I love it

Thank you! I had to reposition the camera quite a few times and drive around the same loop to get all that footage, but in the final edit it was worth it! I also had a little LED panel light for the interior shots with my face. Summer nights are great for cruising around here.

The heater bypass valve is a Four Seasons 74781 / Everco 5930. It's controlled by the same vacuum control valve on the interior AC controls as the original heater shut off valve so the heater core is bypassed in the vent or max AC positions. I can't recall what application the valve was originally intended for

​@@thebandit4393 Thank you for the info! I'm finally getting around to repairing the A/C in my '72 Ventura II and that would be a great "while I'm there" upgrade. Your Nova looks great, thanks for sharing it with us! 🙂👍

@@michaeldavis3430 Thank you! Feel free to ask any questions you have. You can also find me on Instagram at @chevyhotrodder

I made a small notches in the box to clear the passenger cylinder head and used fiberglass to create a pocket in that area. It is really going to depend on where your engine is mounted exactly and what headers you're using. In my case I'm using Doug's Headers SK100 mounts in the 1/2" setback position along with their headers. There are photos of notching the box in my build thread on Ls1tech.com. Search for LY6/TH400 Nova thread by TheBandit.

Thank you so much. Will definitely read thread.

@@minhdang8165 Happy to help. One other point - your '74 is a valve in receiver aka "VIR" system. It has a POA valve integrated into it that is non adjustable. If you are converting to R134a I think your best option is a VIR eliminator.

I'm gonna order a vir eliminator

Yes. I bought the drier from Vintage Air but it's just a universal type. They usually have a port on them for installing a binary or trinary switch. I recommend installing a trinary switch for electric fan control.

Pro Car Rally Houndstooth

@@thebandit4393 they hold you in place pretty well at autox?

@@davidtindall6427 The high bolsters are great for autocross. Even with just retractable 3pt belts, I don't have issues sliding side to side (harnesses would really help during hard braking). I did have to modify the Pro Car brackets to lower the seats by about 1" which helped driver position tremendously for me at 6'0" tall. The overall dimensions of the seat are better suited for someone shorter since the lumbar support is a little low for me, the top of the seat is a few inches below my shoulders, and I have to raise the headrest all the way up to position it behind my head. The width of the seat is good for me. I have a 36" waist If you're much larger you might consider the "wide" version of the seat.

Hotckis 1.5' drop leafs

@@thebandit4393 me too. I had some wheel hop so I added caltracs. I was thinking maybe some adjustable shocks might let me remove the caltracs. What kind of shocks are you running outback

@@davidtindall6427 I also have problems with wheel hop. I'm using the old Hotchkis Bilstein

Twin turbo and factory AC would be a lot to package. I can't help you there sorry

@@thebandit4393 I believe vintage air has there kit under the dash. It would save space but not money.

@@limitlessautomedia9794 Yes their system is completely under dash. I think if you want factory AC and twin turbos you will have to get very very creative with packaging. It's hard enough to package a twin turbo setup as it is. I'm not going to say it's impossible though. You just might have to route exhaust on the outside of the frame or something similarly out of the box

Thank you for the kind words!

Full details and photos are in my build thread on ls1tech.com Search for "Nova LY6/TH400" and look for parking brake in the first post table of contents to get the post number range. This solution has worked great for me but if you have outboard shocks it may not work for you. My shocks are relocated inboard

@@thebandit4393 Your build is truly amazing. Blessings sending from me to you and yours. You have access to amazing tools. My whole system is gone, so I'm going to start from the ebrake itself, go with a stock OEM kit and then see what I need to do from that point on. I'm almost 50 and bought this car when I was 17. I'm just glad to connect with anyone willing to turn a wrench and share their experiences. Thanks Bandit!

I spliced the hi/lo binary switch into the compressor clutch wire so it prevents clutch engagement if the high side pressure is too high or low. I installed mine into the drier but anywhere on the high pressure side of the system will work.

@TheBandit thanks. So, does this switch work as an interrupter and does the input come from the a/c control switch in the cab and does the output go directly to the clutch?

@@ricardoparra6927 Yes it is an interruptor. The wiring for the AC clutch runs from the firewall pass through behind the passenger cylinder head to the ambient freeze switch on the passenger side of the evaporator box then to the compressor clutch. I wired my binary switch between the ambient freeze switch and the compressor clutch.

@@thebandit4393 I appreciate you. My setup is slightly different (70 C10) without the ambient sensor but it may not be necessary. Thank you.

@@ricardoparra6927 The ambient switch is used to prevent AC operation in freezing conditions. The only time it would normally come into play is if you are using the defroster while it's snowy cold outside. I would suggest installing a trinary switch if you want it to also control electric fans in the future. Better to install now rather to have to recharge the system later if you decide to swap one in.

I used a bypass style heater valve, Four Seasons 74781 / Everco 5930. This valve normally allows coolant flow to the heater core, but under vacuum it returns the coolant flow back to the waterpump without passing it through the heater core.

R134a works at its best when system is 98% or greater full

No. I felt no difference at all for my street and autocross use. I don't think this adds much torsional stiffness to the unibody structure.

@@thebandit4393 i wonder if adding an 8 point cage would help? ty for the quick reply.

@@JarvisMod I'm sure that would stiffen things up and improve safety on the track. I need to maintain good back seat access for my kids so a cage is out for now. I wanted the SFCs to ensure good structure and strength not necessarily to improve performance.

I think that's a great idea. I have been thinking about divorcing the AC switch from the rest of these controls like they did in the 80s. I'd also like to divorce the recirculation function.

If it's prior to VIR, it should be basically the same setup. I highly recommend the model-specific factory service manual - it has a lot of great info on how the system operates and troubleshooting steps. Good luck!

These wheels are not available in custom offset, so I narrowed my rear end to make a larger width fit properly. I am currently using 18x8 245/40R18 front and 18x9 275/35R18 rear with zero offsets and the rear axle is narrowed 1in each side. On a stock width rear you might be stuck with 18x7 max width.

@@thebandit4393 My car is 72 Chevelle 4 doors. Because I’m buying Online I can’t try the wheel on the car and I don’t want to make any differences on the car. As far as I understand, 18x7 or 18x8 is applicable for me, did I understand right? I’ll make the purchase using Summit, do you recommend any brands for the wheel? Thank you for helping out, much appreciated.

@@fenderman9612 Chevelle fitment is going to be different, so I would defer to someone with a Chevelle and/or Rev Wheels themselves on recommended sizes.

@@thebandit4393 thanks you very much

Too much work for me. I bought these same wheels in 17x8 on 275 40s and I can’t even take a passenger with me or it just sits on the quarter. Not interested in shortening the axles, so these will be going up for sale sadly

I see no reason to replace the evaporator if it still holds pressure. I would just flush it (as shown in one of my other videos).