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Mattia Garrasi
Italy
Приєднався 10 бер 2010
Cazzate
4 in 1 8a (Calusco, Paderno d'Adda)
4 in 1 8a is an hard route in Calusco crag in the Canyon sector.
The route is composed by 3 main parts. The first is the start, with 2/3 hard moves, after there is a good rest where you can release your hands. Then starts the endurance sequence, about 16 moves on bad pockets and small crimps, that leads you to a bad rest on the sloopy jugs. Then there are still few moves to reach the only proper rest of the route, just under the redpoint crux. The send is in question on the last 5/6 moves, depend on the beta, just under the chain. Here you need to be very calm and with a bit of power left.
I did the route in one day, putting 2 tries to find out the betas, 3 tries falling just under the anchor, and then at the end sending at my 6th try.
Regarding the grade, I think is soft for 8a, considering I could send at my third or fourth go if I had the perfect method for the middle part.
But in my opinion it's still harder then Il folletto 7c+, so 8a/7c+ could work.
8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user/mattia-garrasi/sportclimbing
Instagram: @garrasinho garrasinho
The route is composed by 3 main parts. The first is the start, with 2/3 hard moves, after there is a good rest where you can release your hands. Then starts the endurance sequence, about 16 moves on bad pockets and small crimps, that leads you to a bad rest on the sloopy jugs. Then there are still few moves to reach the only proper rest of the route, just under the redpoint crux. The send is in question on the last 5/6 moves, depend on the beta, just under the chain. Here you need to be very calm and with a bit of power left.
I did the route in one day, putting 2 tries to find out the betas, 3 tries falling just under the anchor, and then at the end sending at my 6th try.
Regarding the grade, I think is soft for 8a, considering I could send at my third or fourth go if I had the perfect method for the middle part.
But in my opinion it's still harder then Il folletto 7c+, so 8a/7c+ could work.
8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user/mattia-garrasi/sportclimbing
Instagram: @garrasinho garrasinho
Переглядів: 56
Відео
Lanterna Rossa 7b+ (Paderno, Calusco d'Adda)
Переглядів 4521 день тому
Lanterna Rossa 7b is a cool route in Canyon Sector in Paderno d’Adda. The crux is a hard section in the middle with around 7/8 moves. Before and after that the route is pretty easy. Quite soft as a 7b in my opinion, but similar to all the other routes in this crag. Almost climbed onsight back in may, then did on my second attempt today. 8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user/mattia-garrasi/sportc...
Il Folletto 7c+ (Paderno, Calusco d'Adda)
Переглядів 2821 день тому
Il Folletto 7c is a nice route in the Canyon Sector in Paderno d’Adda crag. The route is an endurance test piece, with a long sequence of medium-hard moves with only a bad rest near the top. For me was hard to get to the last sequence of moves with enough power to execute the moves. The only time I was able to recover properly on the bad rest, I was able to send, so I guess the crux of the rout...
Catch your dream 7b (Rancate)
Переглядів 18Місяць тому
Catch your dream 7b is a nice endurance route in Rancate crag. Long about 30 meters, is an endurance test piece with the "hardest" moves at the end, after a good rest. The video shows my onsight attempt where I fell at the end and cut that part. Still not freed yet, cuz not tried again. But low end 7b in my opinion, maybe 7a or 7a somewhere else 8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user/mattia-garra...
Sesso sul sasso 7c+ (Rancate)
Переглядів 19Місяць тому
Sesso sul sasso 7c is a beautiful route in Rancate crag. Even if the route is about 30 meters long, it is very bouldery, with just few hard moves. The lower and the upper part are easy (around 7a the route without the crux), but still important to check out the moves. The boulder is fun but unfortunately very short… the rock near the chain is very unstable, chossy and dangerous. Be careful and ...
Spanna 7a+ (Sasso Remenno) Flash
Переглядів 922 місяці тому
Spanna 7a is a cool route in Sasso Remenno crag. It consists on two main section, the first make you pull on a bad underclinch to reach the leap and the second make you pull on two tiny crimper to jump to the second leap. Then there is a easy top out to the chain. Cool route, did It flash. The video ends after the hard part cause my phone storage was full. 8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user/m...
Spigolo fumasoni 6c (Sasso Remenno)
Переглядів 1142 місяці тому
Spigolo Fumosoni 6c is a storia route in Sasso Remenno Crag. 4 quickdraws of pure power, few hard campus moves at the beginning then some moves on good edges and the a dynamic move at the end. Tried for the first time in 2021, on my first ever time here in Val Masino, never tried again, did it easily today :) 8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user/mattia-garrasi/sportclimbing Instagram: @garrasin...
It's Raining 7a+ (Menaggio)
Переглядів 1422 місяці тому
It’s raining 7a , is a short and powerful route in Menaggio crag. Only 10 movement on crimps and small holes. Nice power test. Did it on my second go. 8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user/mattia-garrasi/sportclimbing Instagram: @garrasinho garrasinho
Notorious 7b+ (Paderno, Calusco d'Adda)
Переглядів 923 місяці тому
Notorious 7b is a nice route in Paderno (Calusco d’Adda) crag. The hardest part is a sort of boulder problem at the beginning in which you have to pull on a mono finger hole and then do a hard cross move to the left. Then there is a good rest before the last hard part, power endurance to the upper straight wall. Nice route. Could flashed, I fell after the Boulder problem because I didn’t know t...
Ciclone dx 7c (Carate Urio)
Переглядів 643 місяці тому
Ciclone dx 7c, is a cool finger route in Carate Urio crag. Starts with a easy section on the overhang, with good, but hidden, hand holds. There are two middle rest and then the hard crimps part starts: consists in 6 hard moves from the jug to the jug in the upper wall. Then the last part is delicate cause you have to hold on some slippery and flat holds. Cool route. Climbed in 6 attempt in tota...
Tupac Amaro 8a (Carate Urio)
Переглядів 767 місяців тому
Tupac Amaro 8a, is a nice 18 meters route in Carate Urio Crag. Cool route composed by three main parts: the first should be the first crux but actually skippable just grubbing the obvious jugs to the left, for me it makes nosense to use the small crimps where there are big jugs just to the left... The second crux is going out the little roof, there are may ways to do this roof and I spent quite...
Demian 7b (Carate Urio)
Переглядів 1688 місяців тому
Demian 7b, short route in Carate Urio Crag consists in a little problem below the last quickdraw, holding on some sloopy crimps. I did the crux with around 10 moves and the difficulty was finding the right way to do it. The crux is a lot on body feeling and position on the slopers. Actually difficult to do onsight. Climbed on my second go. 8a.nu: Mattia Garrasi www.8a.nu/user/mattia-garrasi/spo...
Sole Incantatore 🌞🪄 (Guglia Goloritzè)
Переглядів 2818 місяців тому
Sole Incantatore 🌞🪄 (Guglia Goloritzè)
Chi di Teo ferisce, di Teo perisce 7c (Menaggio)
Переглядів 5210 місяців тому
Chi di Teo ferisce, di Teo perisce 7c (Menaggio)
Va a catá il lácc 7b (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Переглядів 101Рік тому
Va a catá il lácc 7b (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
La nipote di Sangiano 7b (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Переглядів 159Рік тому
La nipote di Sangiano 7b (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
La nemesi di Marcone 8a (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Переглядів 187Рік тому
La nemesi di Marcone 8a (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
La bambina samuele 7b+ (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Переглядів 96Рік тому
La bambina samuele 7b (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Orgoglione 7a+ Onsight (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Переглядів 228Рік тому
Orgoglione 7a Onsight (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Uno io, uno te! 7b+ (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Переглядів 89Рік тому
Uno io, uno te! 7b (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Bue Maschiato 7b (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Переглядів 121Рік тому
Bue Maschiato 7b (Cassano Valcuvia Alta)
Lacrime di rame 7a+ Onsight (Sasso Ballaro)
Переглядів 196Рік тому
Lacrime di rame 7a Onsight (Sasso Ballaro)
This is not the send video
il 7c dove sarebbe???
A vederlo non sembra un 7A
@@Leonord85 si è sicuramente più facile di 7a
@@Leonord85 infatti ha perso di ogni attrattiva
Troppa poca attrazione questo blocco
Fire...!!!
Легенд 😎💪🏼
Good job
Jodido Crack Marcel 🤟
He won by recovering from faults
This is the Real ski Goat . That Video is so nice can you maybe make it also with Hermann Maier
Without a doubt the best skier ever. It wasn't just how many races he won. It's the sheer dominance in a lot of those races. He was once over 3 seconds faster than the second place. That's just ridiculus. Even in a lot of amateur races you don't have those time differences. Another great example are the 8 consecutive overall world cup wins. Once he had reached his peak form in 2011 he dominated. Many say that Stenmark was better but let's be honest that was a different time. The game has changed so fundamentaly you can barely even compare them anymore.
What a talent, I wonder how come nobody is using the same tactics these days...
Mikaela actually said that all the skiers know what he is doing but it's so hard and his own that they don't manage to replicate it.
il tipo che commenta sarebbe da sopprimere, ha rovinato un video stupendo.
amazing skier and one of the best 3 gs runners of the new era together with hirscher and odermatt
Onecharted
So sad that he didn't try to catch Stenmark
The best!
His style changed so much after 2011. He really put a lot of work into changing his technique to suit the longer radius skis. His transitions got so much faster, and the turn initiated so much sooner relative to the fall line.
Love Ted
ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxaYNwpxBEU01WDhN_UV63ukOIdRdMG98B
We want to say Lindsey Vonn s 82 victories, not Marcel s stupid arrogant style. Had a lot of luck that he was never injured
Now show us a video of his downhill victories.
Or better show us video of your achievements...
@@ВиолетаСтоянова-п1п - Pointless comment, as it's Hirscher who people are proclaiming as the GOAT. And that's a nonsense if you haven't won all disciplines.
@@Benzknees Right, so who is the GOAT then in your opinion and has that person also won 8 consecutive overall titles? You just sound salty that Hirscher is better than whoever you support.
@@TorpedoSandwich0 - Counts for nothing if there's no downhill victories in there.
cool
READ THE DESCRIPTION Some victories VOD are missing, in the description I explain why
READ THE DESCRIPTION Some victories VOD are missing, in the description I explain why
And 8th, 9th, 10th, And 11th win
Where are the wins 2nd, 4th, 6th
Read the description… unfortunately I wasn’t able to find them. I spent hours and hours trying to dig out the victories video from the web, but those were impossible to find. If you them or you know were to find them, please let me know, I will add them
Ted is the best "Carver" I've ever seen. It is so great to watch him. It's so amazing how he's mastered technique. So smooth and so many perfect turns. If you want to learn to ski faster with more stability, you will stop "Scraping" and start "Carving".
The video is NOT the send
The video is NOT the send
Buen pegue, me gustó el video. gracias por compartir
I honestly can't stand American commenters who first: don't pronounce Marcel's last name correctly - he's Hirscher, not Hersher; second they constantly interfere with Ligeti with or without reason and third at #30, not the speed, but Marcel's line is amazing, he is one of the most intelligent athletes in general, and they almost make him drive without any idea in his head. ..
Hirsher wasn't human.
Great job 💪💪
The legend
GOAT
All in or nothing, best skier ever. Greetings from Bosnia.
Marcel the GOAT!
27:30
16:29
How the americans manage to bring up Ted Ligety's name in every single race of Marcel no matter if it was GS or not^^
Yes, thank you! 👍👏
Marcel has unique technique that we could all learn from. Maybe some of you guys can help me. Maybe you haven't noticed but the "surf skate" technology in skateboards has advanced beyond us. The ski manufacturers haven't developed anything even close. "Alpine inline" racing is like skiing on your 10 year old rock skis that you should have thrown away by now.
GOAT! You know, I kinda feel blessed, that I could be a ski racing fan in Hirscher's era and watch all these great runs. He made a history, but what's the most important, he gave us so much great emotions by his phenomenal performances. It was real fun to watch this competition (or should I say, domination? 😄), it was a great time for alpine skiing. Thank you so much for this video!
I don't think anyone would complain if you'd put the full runs in
I cannot publish them whole due to the copyright
@@garrasinho ah yeah the old copyright ruining sports history for future generations to enjoy chestnut
Marcell actually only had 66 wins. There was a slalom one time where he straddled a gate not once but twice and he was still granted the victory. Ivica Kostelic noted it publicly in an interview after the race. Don't know which race but someone might pick it out
Of course twice - first time in the first run and second - in the second run! 😂😂 Don't be stupid and give this guy the respect he deserves!
@@ВиолетаСтоянова-п1п It was twice in one run. I'll give him the respect, just not 67 wins
Amazing work, thank you for that!
Thank you so much for putting this together. A great Christmas present.