Відео

Is that bike a magnum??

If there juliet u can trust them against water once tightened!9yrs runnin with many of these connections on all wires ,best ive come across for weather

No way 😂

❤

Did they come with scratches?

Really nice stuff, just went on their website. A bit out of my price range tho

I liked it a lot seeing him put that back wheel down and ride only on it, that was neat!

Are the love levers gonna be significantly smoother than your standard tektro or dia-compes? Love the bling, and the bearings, but how do they feel?

Hutch frame?

Would be a whole lot better without that stupid music blasting out!

Nesesito un Par

Mines are connected very tight, which should I do to loosen it up

Cool thank you for the heads up..

thank you and we all can do this! trust me

So idk if rats or my dog chewed my cable but the sort one that connects to the hub is broken where can I find a replacement?

What kind of pedals do you use?

They are beautiful looking cranks but wow the price of them!! Glad you made a video they are sweet for sure!!

It better be nice for $300.

can it take 5 or 7 speed freewheel? i want to convert my low rider to magwheel but i want 5 or 7 speed

Is this website reliable??

Spline or bolt on sprocket? Any recommendations?

Can I get a 24” tuff with coaster break? Or is it possible to cchange a pair of freewheels to coasters?

I just did this the other day, then I watched this and had a moment thinking I'd put it on the wrong way. Fortunately my past self installed it correctly.

At 400$

where did you connect the white wire plss answer

Its not 43 NM torque then

My zundapp z801 starting support from 20 km/h and not always ???I

Mine has E22 error code ( gotrax F5 while)

I have the same bike 😅

‘ iff you don’t take it to a professional ‘ and yet an adjustable wrench is ok? Been a professional engineer all my life, only ever considered using an adjustable wrench in emergencies or possibly if no correct spanner is available... Apart from that, great vid dude...

I have a gold pair , la primo los volvio a poner en stock?

'Promosm' 🙋

Yea, he didnt nitrus circus 🎪😢

What is the tool called that you took off the bottom bracket with. The one that you were struggling to get on

Saving me lots of money!!

My bike have not a plug for that wire, can i cat the wire so i can take the speed freewheel off ?

New to this, but can i use the sprocket from my old bike? Thanks 👍

I was just thinking this, thank you for this video brother checking connections now❤

That was just a flip whip

Mine was lose i push together it goes but then couole hours later even after i zip toes it together it did the same and cut out the motor

My e-bike was not working properly then I saw your video then my problem is solved Thank you so much for making this video

There is no blood left in my feet after watching this.

Want that sprocket

Your shop is a vibe

What's the weight?

Thanks for making this video as I know it takes time and effort to edit and post them. That being said I have a few suggestions for you and others watching from an old time mechanic. First off your title is inaccurate, what you are really fixing is a loose bottom bracket. Fixing a loose crank would be that the crank arms are loose and the bottom bracket is fine (which usually would be fixed by tightening the crank bolts). Loose cranks are common when people do not tighten their crank bolts enough initially or after the first few rides after installation. So if you feel a wobble in your cranks arms you first have to identify whether one or both cranks are loose or if the bottom bracket is loose (or both might be loose). There are two different issues with different solutions. If you push and pull on one crank arm and it is wobbles and then try the other crank arm and it wobbles then the bottom bracket is loose (this is assuming the cranks are tight). This is because the are connected to the same axle so if there is bearing play then it causes both sides to wobble. This is the situation this video addresses. If you push and pull on both crank arms and only one wobbles then the crank arm that wobbles needs its retaining bolt tightened to stop the wobbling. If you tighten the loose side and it still wobbles or it keeps coming loose then you probably have damaged the crank arm by riding it loose and it will have to be replaced. As mentioned in this video it is not a good thing to be riding when your cranks wobble. You either wreak the bottom bracket or your crank arm (which is more expensive). It is a good idea to regularly check for a wobble in your crank or bottom as they can come loose. It is easiest to check if you rotate your crank until it is parallel to your seat tube then push and pull against that tube looking for any movement. As far as the video you mention the importance of screwing in the crank puller fully before tightening it to protect the crank arm threads. You do this on the drive side with a wrench and then just screw it in by hand on the non drive side. You should do it on both sides. I would agree that it is much easier to use a thin wall socket and a ratchet to loosen/tighten the crank bolts and tighten the crank puller. You do not have to continually adjust the tool or worry about the pedal position. This applies to loosening and tightening the bearing cups as well. Park tool wrenches work but are clumsy. I would agree that sealed bottom brackets are the way to go and have replaced retained bearings. They are much easier to work on and go much longer before wearing out or getting contaminated. Remember he is working on a bike with British bottom threads which is most common type and JIS tapers which is the most common type. Other thread types like Italian do not screw out the same way and Italian cranks use different tapers as well so if you purchase a third party bottom you need to know your crank brand to make sure they match. As mentioned you need to know the correct axle length (or be pretty close) and bottom shell width. You can measure these with a caliper or ruler. Traditionally road bikes have 68mm shells and mountain bikes have wider 73mm shells. He was working on a mountain bike but mentioned using a 68mm bottom so I hope he measured correctly. Try to completely clean out the bottom shell threads before any re-assembly. A tooth brush works great and watch your fingers as the threads can be sharp. You should be able to completely thread in both bearing cups by hand if the threads are clean and as mentioned be careful that they are threading in correctly and not cross threading. As mentioned the bottom cartridge needs to go in the correct way. The longer axle side is always the drive side just in case they are not marked. I would put some grease (not oil ) or preferably anti seize compound on the bearing cup threads. I would put in the drive side cup in first and completely tighten it down before doing anything much with the non drive side. Then I would attach the drive side crank arm and completely tighten it down. Make sure you completely clean the axle tapers and crank arms holes before attaching either crank arm and make sure you put the chain around the bottom shell or on the chain ring before attaching the drive arm. One the drive arm is tightened then you can tighten the non drive cup and use the drive arm to push and pull against the bike until all bearing play is eliminated. Then tighten down the lock ring (if one is used for your cartridge). It is much easier to adjust the non drive cup and lock ring with the non drive crank arm not attached. Then finally attach and tighten down the non drive crank arm. I would put the chain on the bottom shell so the arms can spin and give them a hard spin to make sure they spin freely and that the bearings are not too tight. I have seen cases where bottoms could not even be turned by hand with the arms off but it was not noticed with the crank arms attached. Remember that both crank arm bolts need to be checked and probably tightened after the first couple rides otherwise they might start to work loose. Your crank arms will make an air tight friction seal on the tapers which is why they need to be pulled off.

Check your hall sensors mate there on that pcb

Damn bro this is nice how much was this if you dont mind me asking thanks for the upload

Mine wont shut off. I suspect it is condensation somewhere. Anybody know What it could be!?’v

Sick bro