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Sorry, I don't have experience with that feature. I know Caddies tended to have a bunch of extras and GM loved vacuum actuation in the '70s so possibly your issue could be related to directing a vacuum signal? Thanks for watching and for commenting.

@DougsMessyGarage i found late last night this is a rare option. Its called an 'aneroid bellow' ? Some sort of altitude adjustment. Thanks for reply

@@sirlucius3016 That's cool. Thanks for bringing it up. That is a good piece of knowledge to add to the collection.

I suspect this machine will take some tuning to get it dialed in. The guy I bought it from had owned it for about ten years but didn't ever use it so it's been a while since it was in service. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Depending on who you talk to about it, a Stage Two kit will be a billet flywheel, improved can, stronger valve springs, and a billet connecting rod. GoPowersports.com has performance kits for Predator 212s and TIllotsons. You would need to check with them if you are hopping up a Predator 224. I seem to recall that they recommended using the Tillotson stage 2 kit rather than the Predator 212 kit. As for the brake, sorry, no idea. Thanks for watching and for reaching out.

I have generally had pretty good luck with Quadrajets too. Keep them clean and re-assembled correctly and they usually start better than fuel injection.

Unfortunately there is not a date on the label. this may have been from the '60s. While this machine is certainly an upgrade from the Harbor Freight style machine in the last video, it certainly takes more effort than a modern machine would. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

Seems to work pretty well now that it’s bolted to the floor

The trailer tires are essentially junk. the 15s off the truck are going on another set of rims to get another project rollable.

Lots of good rebuildable cores. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Absolutely on that particular machine. I chose to upgrade to air powered though. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

Thanks for watching and for commenting.

When I put the new tires on I certainly did.

Possibly but you will see my solution at the end of the video.

Glad it was of use. Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment

Locks out the secondaries when the choke is active.

@@DougsMessyGarageI did some additional reading and the lever (via the diaphragm) keeps the secondaries effectively disabled during normal engine operation regardless of choke position. This is because the diaphragm is seeing vacuum generated by the engine. When the accelerator is pushed to the floor and the engine is under load at high RPM, vacuum goes to zero which releases the diaphragm (and linkage) allowing the secondaries to open. It’s all about vacuum and really nothing else.

Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment.

PS- get some Kroil…..

I believe that is the way they are supposed to be. Mine will be like that again hopefully. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

Likely your head casings were correct. The flatheads tended to get rebuilt or replaced over the years so who knows if this is the original engine or not.

It is possible that the hood came off of a '55. This truck was someone's hotrod back in the '60s or '70s. It has had some modifications done over the years. It has an upgraded seat that I am hoping to save and the fuel tank was moved from under the floor to behind the seat. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

Making progress. I have the refinished wheel on it now and it looks mean. Can't wait to get his old machine running.

@@DougsMessyGarage great to see you pushing the needle on a new project!

I ended up ordering in a set of brand new skins from eBay. If I were just going to sit on this project for a few years, it would have been a waste but since I am hoping to get it on the road next summer, I'll need good rubber any way. The problem around here is it was harvest season and the local farmers all use crappy old 15" tires on their implements so they seem to get dibs on anything that will hold air.

@@DougsMessyGarage Truth be told there will be issues that will slow down the anticipations of success like brand new bad parts missing parts & them parts you will just have to make yourself because they don't exist no more... I go thru it here its always some thing that holds up the rest of the work... I have begun making Frame pieces and sections of frames because stuff here in the Northeastern USA is gaga when ya get it unless its been in somebodies garage many years and on occasion I get hold of stuff like that now days.

@@DougsMessyGarage Maybe you could try introducing the local hay makers to larger sizes and ask em to save ya the good tiny tires... Lol just joking. We have a illegal alien problem here that takes up all the more popular parts its like locusts and buzzards descend upon the U Pull It yards around here. There is big money in sending used parts to south America and Euro colony areas even Cuba. I know that for a fact being good friends with Enrique Gutiereza here he is a Liaison to my old Navy air wing and that is his side business him and all his buddies prowl salvage yards for parts all over NY NJ and here in Pa and Virginia Maryland too. That guys crew can strip an entire Toyota Lexus or Hinda within under an hour its literally a skelleton.

Interesting idea. Nobody has suggested wax yet. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

I am going to try bumping the engine over with the wheels and see if it pops loose but if that doesn't work, Kroil might be worth a shot.

Thanks for watching and for commenting

Hoping to load it on the trailer this weekend.

Thanks for watching and for commenting.

The acid in the coke is diluted phosphoric acid. Muriatic acid is a mix of hydrochloric and phosphoric acids and very strong. I have a drum of it and I won't even start touching it without a big bag of baking soda and running water at hand. Nasty fumes and wicked stuff if it gets on your skin.

@@nickwarner8158 Don't blame you, I had half gallon of hydrocloric spilled on me one day and by the time I got to the faucet and turned it on my clothes fell off me. My aunt Helga helped hose me down. She lived next door and could tell by my yelling something bad had happened.. I was using it to test milk,my wife's job at the time.

Well, it is an old truck but I am always willing to learn something new. Thanks for watching and for commenting

I'll have to try the ATF/Acetone thing. I think that will work on the downward pistons but that one at the top of the stroke is a major stinker. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

Thanks for the tips. I have been thinking about a chain wrench as an option. Replacing a sheared keyway is easy compared to a striped crank bolt. I am taking the 'no permanent damage' approach to this engine. This is why I have not used the head bolt holes to press the pistons down with a steel plate. That might work on some engines but Flathead Fords are known for fragile deck casting so I do not want to risk killing the block. The engine will need an overbore and likely a turned crank but I do not want to risk anything that will wreck difficult to replace parts. Thank you for watching and for commenting.

Already tried PB and Marvel. The Marvel seems to have worked well on five of the eight. Those last three are stinkers though. I did use wood on the pistons prior to trying the pipe. It didn't do anything. Understand that this engine will be getting rebuilt before going into regular use. I figure the pre-rebuild teardown will be much easier on a running engine that one that is seized solid. That is why I am trying these techniques, not because I think I am going to have a reliable engine. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

Thank you for your kind comment. This logging sleigh was a wild idea that I had and it generally works pretty well. The biggest problem is the stake pockets. I drilled them after assembly so none are drilled the same. If I had drilled them to a plan before welding the pockets in place, the stakes would have been interchangeable. As it is, we have to swap them around a bit when installing them. Poor planning on my part.

I doubt I have done any damage to the crank threads, I have been careful to not crank on them too much. Don't worry, this engine will be coming apart. I am trying to get it running both to see if I can and because it is much easier to disassemble an engine that is capable of running than one that is a seized pile of rust. I can't just put an engine stuck this hard back into service and expect reliability. My plan for the truck is a bit of a rat rod and I would really like to keep the 8BA flathead if I can.

This has been an escalation. I started off with oil based products and had kept getting more extreme as everything else failed. I think I am close to breaking things free now, I just can't get any leverage on things with the front clip in the way. The truck is likely getting a trailer ride to my garage in the next couple of weeks and then i will be able to make some better progress. Thank you for watching and for commenting.

I have used a block of wood. The pipe was an attempt to give the piston a sharper jolt than the wood. Let's face it, this attempt has been about seeing if we can break it loose without a teardown. This engine is going to need an overhaul if it is ever going to be reliable. Thank you for watching and for commenting.

I completely agree. Thanks for watching and commenting.

I don't think there are an unusual number of closed valves but now that you have mentioned it, I will have to go back and look. Honestly, I have not been paying that close of attention to the valves because of the stuck pistons. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

I have tried a prybar on the the flywheel but the angles are bad with the front clip still in place. New tires and refurbished wheels will be going on this week to make the truck a roller so I will be able to bring it back to the garage rather than trying to work on it on a hill in the bush.

Absolutely there will be stuck valves. I am soon going to be bringing this truck to the garage to work on it over the winter. I will dig a bit deeper into the engine once I have it closer to the toolbox. Thanks for watching and for commenting.

@@DougsMessyGarage heating pistons and pouring old engine oil or heavy gear oil on them quite often works,the heat creates a capillary action and pulls the oil down the skirts,don’t get the pistons to hot or you’ll just smoke yerself out and the oil will turn to carbon and make thing’s tighter,stay away from hydrochloric acid it eats pistons,stinks and does more damage than good,I suppose if the engine is that shagged out then it doesn’t matter but experience has taught me that acid is the quickest way to turn a engine into a boat anchor,even if you neutralise it,it stays in ring grooves,dribbles into the sump,etc,etc,just the fumes create rust,best of luck friend,had a 24 stud 8ba in a 53 mercury,a rare car in the uk,if I didn’t run it every 3 months a valve would always stick,

@@brettlittle9913 I will certainly keep all of this in mind. Thanks for the tips.

I have not heated up the exhaust manifold but have gone into the water jackets around the stuck piston and applied heat to the outside of the cylinder.