Kevin MacKenzie
Kevin MacKenzie
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Gothics South Face Original Route (5.4)
I wanted a day with a little mileage, a little vertical gain, and a little climbing-Gothics South Face came to mind. Perhaps the most important condition was that I needed to be able to climb it wet if need be (and it needed to be in hindsight). I considered Gothic Arch, but rain potential showers made me apprehensive, so I settled on my old friend the Original Route.
The Original was first ascended in 1896 and is one of the oldest North American technical routes. Even originals can change, however. I noticed a rock slide at the top where the guidebook exit is, but didn’t pay it much mind from afar. I should have as it made the exit feel more committing.
I left the AMR parking lot at 6:20 a.m. and reached Pyramid’s summit at 9:10. This was the second time that the face was occluded prior to a climb. The last time, I waited 2 hours (and for the drizzle to stop). This time, my timing was perfect and it cleared within minutes though a chilly wind remained.
I dropped down from the col via the drainage and was standing below the route by 10:30 after some food, relaxing, and general lollygagging around. As expected the crack and pock-marked face was wet for most of the climb. Now…back to the rockfall. In the past, I rationalized that a vegetated ledge 20’ below the crux protected me should I fall. I’d lose some skin, but not much more. The slide removed the vegetation. An un-roped fall would be far longer now. There was another option to traverse off lower, but I knew the moves and felt comfortable.
I was in the trees having fun with the vertical bushwhacking portion of the day (for each large ledge) and perched on Gothics’ summit by 11:30 a.m. That left plenty of time for relaxing and an exit via the West River Trail once at the Ausable River.
Переглядів: 376

Відео

Gothics North Face March 2021
Переглядів 8813 роки тому
Katie Vannicola, Loren Swears, Tyler Mallette, Emily Schwartz, and I climbed the North Face during a bluebird day on the first day of spring. Thin ice and good neve made it pleasant. Katie took the lead with Loren following while the rest of us soloed various lines. Good times and lots of laughs on this fun little climb.
Volunteer Rescue Training (NYSDEC-High Angle Rescue Team), 2021
Переглядів 1383 роки тому
NYS DEC high angle rescue team practice at Poke-O-Moonshine Mtn. in NY.
Deb MacKenzie Wolf Dome at Adirondack Wildlife Refuge
Переглядів 1373 роки тому
This Dome was lovingly created by Jackie and Kevin Woodcock with my late wife Deb in mind. Jackie wrote, "Countless hours went into developing how we could create a beautiful, loving space that did justice to who Debbie truly was. The ceiling and floor lighting features represent the light she brought to this world, the bird décor was created due to her love of song birds and the final purpose ...
Power Play - 2021 January 18
Переглядів 1873 роки тому
A fun day leading both pitches and getting two good friends, Colin Aldrich and Alan Wechsler, on this classic Adirondack ice climb.
Roaring Brook Falls ADKS-1/9/21
Переглядів 1783 роки тому
Roaring Brook Falls ADKS-1/9/21
Seasons in the Abyss (M5+) in Panther Gorge
Переглядів 4823 роки тому
Robbi Mecus and Emily Schwartz were partners on this little climb on the Panther Den. Full details at adirondackmountaineering.com.
North Fork Boquet-Talus About the Ice (WI4/M3)
Переглядів 773 роки тому
December 27, 2020 at Shark Fin Cliff along the North Fork Boquet in North Hudson, NY.
Wrestling the Darkness (WI4) in Panther Gorge
Переглядів 3023 роки тому
Loren Swears, Emily Schwartz and I visited Panther Gorge on December 12, 2020 in search of ice. Mt. Marcy was largely melted from the warm front, but we located an obscure climb behind a huge flake that formed a cave on Mt. Haystack. Pitch 1 was an easy snow/ice climb. Pitch 2 (WI4) involved two pillars into a cave. Pitch 3 (WI3 ) was thin, but good ice. Emily took that lead. We rappelled as th...
Gothics North Face 2020 December 5
Переглядів 3123 роки тому
Early season is a mixed bag of climbing rock, snow, ice, slighly-frozen turf. In this case, route finding and following viable ice was challenging because, well, there wasn't much ice and the clouds obscured the tree islands I normally use as navigational points. I led the first pitch to give Alan a feel of the face so he could lead the remainder. I soloed the rest to route-find and save time. ...
Trigger Warning in Panther Gorge
Переглядів 3164 роки тому
Mt. Haystack's Shield Wall in the No Man's Land cliff area holds a few lines of note, this being one of the best. After a 4 A.M. start and a 9-mile hike/bushwhack, Adam Crofoot, Katie Vannicola, and I added this route to the Shield on September 6, 2020...17 years after Adam spotted it when beginning to develop Panther Gorge. If you're going to get through the .10b moves, you need to pull the tr...
Panther Gorge: First Ascent of Anorthosite Overcast (5.11a)
Переглядів 1284 роки тому
Adam Crofoot on the first lead of Anorthosite Overcast on the Panther Den of Mt. Marcy. This is the hardest lead route to date (7/26/20). The video cuts off at the crux move, but this is the bouldery start and .10a/b section of the climb before the roofs and crack traverse. We enjoyed cool temps while the valley had temps of 95F...sometimes it works to roll the dice.
A little wind in Panther Gorge
Переглядів 834 роки тому
Chilling out in the wind with valley temps at 95. We were waiting for the shadows before the first ascent of Anorthosite Overcast in Panther Gorge.
Avalanche Mountain Gully
Переглядів 7714 роки тому
A quick trip up Avalanche Mountain Gully with Alan Wechsler, Nolan Huther and Colin Aldrich.
Panther Gorge-Passion and Warfare (WI5/M5)
Переглядів 3574 роки тому
Panther Gorge-Passion and Warfare (WI5/M5)
Gothics North Face (2019 November 23)
Переглядів 8884 роки тому
Gothics North Face (2019 November 23)
Colden's Trap Dike-March 16, 2019
Переглядів 4,2 тис.5 років тому
Colden's Trap Dike-March 16, 2019
The Matrix (WI5+) in Avalanche Pass, 2019 March 9
Переглядів 2645 років тому
The Matrix (WI5 ) in Avalanche Pass, 2019 March 9
Lilith at Chapel Pond
Переглядів 1855 років тому
Lilith at Chapel Pond
Slide-Kilburn-Sentinel-Stewart Linkage 2018july13
Переглядів 1126 років тому
Slide-Kilburn-Sentinel-Stewart Linkage 2018july13
Mt. Marcy: Agharta Morning June 2018
Переглядів 826 років тому
Mt. Marcy: Agharta Morning June 2018
Haystack, Basin & Saddleback 2018
Переглядів 7286 років тому
Haystack, Basin & Saddleback 2018
Panther Gorge-Charybdis and Scylla 2018 February 17
Переглядів 4636 років тому
Panther Gorge-Charybdis and Scylla 2018 February 17
Great Range Rescue February 4, 2018
Переглядів 4476 років тому
Great Range Rescue February 4, 2018
whiteface mountain cloud dance 2017nov25
Переглядів 1266 років тому
whiteface mountain cloud dance 2017nov25
Indian Pass Talus Caves TSOD Henadoawda 2017nov4
Переглядів 7956 років тому
Indian Pass Talus Caves TSOD Henadoawda 2017nov4
Wallface Mountain Helicopter Insertion/Extraction
Переглядів 1,7 тис.7 років тому
Wallface Mountain Helicopter Insertion/Extraction
Marcy's Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) & All Ryled Up - Panther Gorge
Переглядів 1,4 тис.7 років тому
Marcy's Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) & All Ryled Up - Panther Gorge
Panther Gorge Winter-Ride the Lightning
Переглядів 1057 років тому
Panther Gorge Winter-Ride the Lightning
Colden Trap Dike 2016 December 27
Переглядів 8 тис.7 років тому
Colden Trap Dike 2016 December 27

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @mikeymara411
    @mikeymara411 17 днів тому

    yall wild

  • @jakedcl
    @jakedcl 26 днів тому

    You are a gem to the adks sir thank you for not gatekeeping these cool spots to visit and learn about the history that went on there

  • @torzitele4269
    @torzitele4269 6 місяців тому

    RIP Robbi.

  • @parama130
    @parama130 7 місяців тому

    Charlet Moser Quasars?

  • @RemoPierfelice
    @RemoPierfelice Рік тому

    Thats how my grandfather went to school.

  • @johnmalenchek6597
    @johnmalenchek6597 Рік тому

    Either super ballsy or foolheartedly dangerous. Hats off to you both.

  • @nicholasjackman5025
    @nicholasjackman5025 Рік тому

    I like that!

  • @nathan-d8
    @nathan-d8 2 роки тому

    I took one look at the trap dike during the summer. Wrong shoes for climbing something like that. Im blown away that you did this in the winter.

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 3 роки тому

    Really interesting. How do you get to the starting spot? Via the Pyramid trail off the AMR road?

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      Thanks. You go down the Lake Road then up over Pyramid. The bushwhack starts there off the W side. A VERY steep drainage leads down and you exit at the bottom of the slab.

  • @shoshsanders5903
    @shoshsanders5903 3 роки тому

    Magnificent

  • @shoshsanders5903
    @shoshsanders5903 3 роки тому

    Magnificent

  • @DanielleRootes
    @DanielleRootes 3 роки тому

    Beautiful!

  • @Sam-hf8nq
    @Sam-hf8nq 3 роки тому

    I get the sense that if you fell you and were unable to self-arrest you be hurtling down the slide at about 40 mph in a matter of seconds. Looks so amazingly dangerous but I guess that's part of the thrill. Great footage.

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      I always have 3 points of contact in case of a foot slip. I was at the bottom there. My solo limit is about grade 3+ if I feel good. More vertical and I'm roped and leading with screws. I've learned my limits from hundreds of slide climbs and know where not to surpass. So...I actually don't seek a rush or thrill so much as a sense of calm and appreciation. It's an emersion in the experience that I seek, not how close I an push limits. But all said, this is a tame climb compared to others in the area though a slip would certainly have consequences.

  • @keiajinfilms
    @keiajinfilms 3 роки тому

    Been going through these vids - they’re awesome! This is a great introduction to the ADK climbing scene. Once you finish a route, do you go down via a trail?

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      Glad you're enjoying! It's an 8 mile walk to some of the routes, the trap dike is a bit over 5. Once completed we take the respective trail back or bushwhack back to it then take it back to the trailhead.

  • @keiajinfilms
    @keiajinfilms 3 роки тому

    Holy moley, that’s absolutely nuts in terms of the conditions! Here from NCPR’s feature of Robbi. Thank you ALL for all you do keeping us safe out there, & an extra special thanks to Robbi for being so brave to do the NCPR interview. It means more to my family than you know ❤️

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      It was quite the long rescue with some wild logistics. Thanks for commenting!

  • @BrianHikesAllDay
    @BrianHikesAllDay 3 роки тому

    Whoo whoo!

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 3 роки тому

    Boy, not a lot of ice in that ice climb. Nice work.

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      I know, right! I've been watching it for 5 year in 4 months and that was the 2nd best I've seen it. I was happy to have the bottom 1/3 and top 1/3 "in." :)

  • @DanielleRootes
    @DanielleRootes 3 роки тому

    I would love to become experienced enough to join you on one of these expeditions. I would love to film it!

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      You'd have fun. It looks like you have the long dayhike part dialed in!

  • @connor8398
    @connor8398 3 роки тому

    Is there any snow base or just ice? Same question about the surrounding slides-any snow on them or just ice?

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      No snow base. There are areas of thin (less than 1") ice and it's about 50% snow over bare rock. We were on both. It's the sketchiest GNF outing I've had to date. There's no snow base anywhere yet.

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      Just seeing this. It was just ice and rock with a little non-consolidated snow here and there. Conditions are probably similar now with last week's warmup and the warmup coming. Some of the slides were pure ice like Bennies, but again, it was pretty warm.

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 3 роки тому

    May as well call this a black and white video for all the color we get in the winter. Looks like fun.

  • @wagzzzz
    @wagzzzz 3 роки тому

    That looks miserable and awesome all at the same time

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 3 роки тому

      That's about right! I'm actually uploading a similar one in a few minutes from this past Saturday...just alot less ice.

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 4 роки тому

    What Liam the spam bot said below. :)

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 4 роки тому

    looks dicey. nice post.

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 4 роки тому

      Thanks. It was hero ice on the route...lots of fun, but the sun was too high so overhead objective dangers at the base were an issue.

  • @BoyajianDon
    @BoyajianDon 4 роки тому

    Thanks for posting! Nice mental relief during this crazy time!

  • @alecbro123
    @alecbro123 4 роки тому

    Bad ass. Got a rating?

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 4 роки тому

      Thanks. 5.8+. We did it a couple weeks ago on ice and it goes at WI5/M5 as well...the latest vid.

  • @OutsideChronicles
    @OutsideChronicles 4 роки тому

    Another cool climb. Your camera angles really captured the steepness.

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 4 роки тому

      Thank you. Sometimes the 10mm makes it a little too steep looking, but this turned out pretty true to life. Good times out there!

  • @phillipg7315
    @phillipg7315 4 роки тому

    Excellent video! I’ve been day dreaming a route similar but one that goes over the top of the cliffs (either side). I’d want to be near the cliffs, slightly above in the tree line if possible and cross some slides if necessary. Figuring this is doable with enough research and preparation. Thoughts?

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 4 роки тому

      My thanks! It's brutal bushwhack up there for the most part. I've traversed over most of the Marcy cliffs trying different strategies for approaches and the tightest tree-growth is above them, not at their base. Even over the East Face, it involves as much crawling as walking. The only slide you'd intersect doing that on the Marcy side is Grand Central...the big one. Tree growth on the Haystack is even worse IMO.

    • @phillipg7315
      @phillipg7315 4 роки тому

      Kevin MacKenzie Thanks for the info!!! I figured you’d have a lot of experience in this area. Oddly I’m a glutton for punishment, the rougher and more remote the bushwhack the better but I’m rethinking my ramblings in and around the Gorge. I’ll have to do a deep dive on my maps later on. Thanks again!

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 4 роки тому

      @@phillipg7315 I'm the same. I've taken over 50 trips in there, so I've gotten my head around it--hence my book. It's a wild area for sure, but it's easy to get cliffed out in some areas.

    • @phillipg7315
      @phillipg7315 4 роки тому

      Kevin MacKenzie I’m actually using some of your resources for my planning. Thanks for all that you do and contribute!

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 4 роки тому

      @@phillipg7315 My pleasure. Email/FB message me if you have any questions.

  • @johnnykay80milesout26
    @johnnykay80milesout26 5 років тому

    Envy

  • @woogymodel
    @woogymodel 5 років тому

    @1:10 he raises his arms to celebrate, whoa!

  • @woogymodel
    @woogymodel 5 років тому

    As a greenhorn, I'm amazed that everyone survived and no one was hurt :)

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 5 років тому

      If you're unprepared, yes. I've been out pretty much every weekend since 2004 (I live here) so while I made plenty of mistakes, I learned much about the weather, technique, layering, hydration, food, internal dialog (gut feelings) etc. They all work together to create a safe outing. I'm also a volunteer on the high angle rescue team for NYS and I'd never live it down if I got hurn ;)

  • @markcummings6856
    @markcummings6856 5 років тому

    Incredible climb. Thanks for sharing.

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 5 років тому

      My thanks. This was a good if not chilly memory.

  • @BrianHikesAllDay
    @BrianHikesAllDay 5 років тому

    you guys have more balls then dicks sporting goods

  • @stef11488
    @stef11488 5 років тому

    Dude love your channel! I'm originally from near the park now in NYC, only just started my journey into Winter Mountaineering but can't wait to start ice climbing proper! Headed to the high peaks for a Great Range Traverse this summer. Do you have any beginner slide recommendations while my wife and I are there, We were thinking Bennie Brook.

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 4 роки тому

      Sorry I didn't see this earlier (8 months ago). I hope you got on something interesting this past summer! And ice climbing is quite incredible. I hope you're able to experience it

  • @learningthetrails7570
    @learningthetrails7570 5 років тому

    Watching this beautiful climb - With only a few slides under our belts... 1:45 - Me: Oh, there's an exit. 1:47 - (You Narrating) - The ramp going right is the exit. Me: I love this stuff! Great Video! Hope we bump into you some day!

  • @learningthetrails7570
    @learningthetrails7570 5 років тому

    This is the slide that "tops out" near the stairway, correct?

  • @kuujjuaq58
    @kuujjuaq58 5 років тому

    Near mystical, my friend.

  • @kuujjuaq58
    @kuujjuaq58 5 років тому

    Cripplebush, that is stunted spruce and balsam fir. Great vid, by the way. Spectacular, Kevin.

  • @kuujjuaq58
    @kuujjuaq58 5 років тому

    The precipitous slopes of the Gorge. Unfortunately, no panthers to be found. Thanks for the documentation, Kevin. Beware the cripplebush that is not to be tread thru.

  • @paulfityo1
    @paulfityo1 5 років тому

    Great stuff!

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 5 років тому

    Sweet spot and not a long hike either.

  • @learningthetrails7570
    @learningthetrails7570 5 років тому

    My friend told me that range is gnarly. Your video confirms it. I feel bad for whoever got assigned to bring the Sentinal sign up there!

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 5 років тому

      Yeah, it's a bit 'thrashy' in there :)

  • @learningthetrails7570
    @learningthetrails7570 5 років тому

    I heard you say you were gonna head up to the summit "for fun." Did you make it or say "screw that!?!" I was up there Sunday & the wind was out of control & the ice on the steps made it difficult. Thankfully, the sky was clear & I made it with no incident... Had I dealt with a cloud like that... I would've turned around at the castle. Your cloud was "beautiful" as you said.

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 5 років тому

      The summit was lovely actually. I've been up there so many times in these conditions that, with proper gear, it doesn't phase me...just makes me curious (for fun!).

    • @learningthetrails7570
      @learningthetrails7570 5 років тому

      Nice! It just kinda skipped from the stairs back to the castle so I wasn't sure if you said "heck with it!" since you have been there so many times. I really enjoy your articles & am glad that YT suggested your videos the other day!

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 5 років тому

    So how do you get your rope and anchor equipment back after something like that?

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 5 років тому

      It's a regularly climbed route so there's a rappel ring at the top. We tie the ropes together, make sure we know which side the knot is on, then pull once we're down at the bottom.

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 6 років тому

    Go Neil. Nice perspective Kevin. Guess my microspikes won't cut it on that surface.

  • @twotonadk
    @twotonadk 6 років тому

    Great job to you and everyone else who helped get the injured hiker out of the mountains!

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 6 років тому

      Many thanks. We appreciate it!

  • @TreasuredHeights
    @TreasuredHeights 6 років тому

    Awesome to see this side from below, used to seeing it from the top and wondering what's down there!

  • @johntuttle4486
    @johntuttle4486 6 років тому

    You really captured the sound of the wind...

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 6 років тому

      Yeah, there isn't a windscreen on the SLR...

  • @twotonadk
    @twotonadk 7 років тому

    Wow! You're nuts bro! Hahaha, great video...I don't think I could ever work up the courage for something like that.

  • @RDJim
    @RDJim 7 років тому

    Very cool. So is this below Wallface in the middle of the pass?

    • @northdragon1
      @northdragon1 7 років тому

      It is an interesting area. Basically, yes below the cliff.

    • @RDJim
      @RDJim 7 років тому

      I've wondered into what I recall as a boulder field there but never poked around in the cracks. (that's what she said).