Відео

You picked up an absolute bargain then! I paid £250 (and another £300 to fix it once it broke shortly after purchase). Nice work!

Hey, thanks! I usually CC it a bit. I normally 'linearise' it, essentially the the blacks and whites in a good place, so it doesnt look all pale. And maybe tweak the temperate, depending on what stock I am using... But I find it looks so nice I don't do an awful lot more than that. Maybe the occasional skin tone if I am doing weddings... so a little lol. But nothing extensive.

Hey, this was a while ago so I can’t remember exactly which is which, but it’s probably a mix of both. The manual exposure was some I was most interested in, so I probably used it a lot.

Thanks!

Thanks! What country are you based in? And what are you thinking of filming (time of day / lighting)?

​@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022in the UK, Manchester. It's pretty overcast most of the time but it can be quite nice. I suppose what would be best for filming indoors and what would be better suited for sunny days. I've got a rough knowledge of 35mm and 16mm film but a recommendation from someone with experience goes a long way :)

Ok yeah! So there isn’t a lot to choose from with super8. With out getting into the world of b/w, there’s 50d, which is the least sensitive and perfect for outdoor sunny days. 500t which is your indoor one. A lot more grain but it’s pretty decent and you will still wanna get as much light on your subject as possible. And 200t which is a safe bet in the middle - a versatile one if you’re not sure what the weather is going to do etc…

Oh and I pretty much exclusively use Gauge Film, based in Wolverhampton. I get their processing bundles.

Hey! The only thing I can’t think of off the top of my head is the little thin slider in the centre of larger variable shutter knobs. Mine has that black arrow on it, it slides back and forth.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 Thank you! I thought you had pushed it in on the video. I was twisting, pushing, pulling... I thought it might be stuck. Of course, I knew I was missing something very simple!

@@professorlenz ah it worked! Amazing! I literally never use that function. Glad we solved it, I was worried it was stuck too!

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 Well, the dial can turn now, but when I tried to simulate the "fade out" effect you show when turning the dial from open to close I do not see it darken through the viewfinder. Does this mean the feature does not work or is the effect only visible after shooting (as in it doesn't shift anything to block the light of the lens, but rather the mechanism blocks light to the film)? I have not run any film through it yet, just been testing it out to see what is working and what's not. The automatic zoom buttons do not appear to function, which is disappointing, but I did not pay much for it, so would still be a great deal if everything else functions as it should.

@@professorlenz Ok yeah, you won't see it in the view finder, much like you don't see the aperture opening and closing with auto exposure. I wonder if you might be able to see it through the filmback. If you open the cartridge flap at the back, and look all the way through the hole at end. If you look at something bright and hold the trigger you can see the shutter flickering away. I would imagine you would notice the difference in there... I know it's a bit of an investment, but it really is worth getting some film and doing a test run. Slate it all up so you know what you were testing, and put it through it's paces. It's the only way to know for sure what the quirks are, and it's better to find out there than on something that matters, like a wedding. I worked out with mind that the film wasnt turning consistently and I was missing a lot of stuff and wasting tonnes of film. I have a hacky fix for it now, but it was only through testing it I figured it out. Don't worry about the electric zoom, it's a fad anyway. Mine works, but I am never going to use it.

Hey, I actually couldn’t tell you. There’s next to no info on the camera

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 Is it battery operated? If so, does it use two AA batteries?

@@MORCOPOLO0817 yeah, it’s battery operated

@@planetmoonstories Then it is the Bauer electric or electric S. The electric has a 9-21mm zoom, the S has a 7.5-30mm zoom.

ah cool, good to know thank you! I’ll take a look next time I get it out. I only really use my super8 now so this doesn’t get much use!

Hey! Yes definitely! All super8 cameras are built for convenience, but the better the camera, the more you can do with it as you progress. 100% I recommend this camera.

Hey - what’s your question, I can try to expand on it…

​@pumpkinmonkeypictures Thanks but I don't have a question. Just pointed out that you skipped telling about the 1 or 2 stop backlight correction switch.

Don’t worry about it. I’m pretty sure off the top of my head that when it’s screwed in it disables the filter… although that’s based on my camera. Mine has a red screw that pushes it down - I have a speculation that there was a black one missing that wouldn’t push it down… Regardless, it’s a simple multiply operation that you can do in any software. Either manually change the exposure to make it less orange. Or in programs like premiere there is a specific temperature control that will do the same operate. But ultimately it’s not an issue at all… if you can’t get your head around it let me know and I’ll fix it for you! Hope that helps!

@@pumpkinmonkeypictures yeah I just wasn’t sure if there was something baked in that couldn’t be fixed. Cheers!

@@orangebetsy yeah it will be baked in, if it was on. But in this day and age it isn’t an issue as colour correction isn’t chemical. All this stuff used to make me nervous aswell, but you’ll see, your stuff will look great!

@@pumpkinmonkeypictures thanks! It’s a guy with balloons but they aren’t primary colors, we found em and figured we should have him walking around Brooklyn dragging em along. It es so hot they kept popping.

Bargain!

Things that never happened

Well watch the video and get stuck in! It's a beautiful thing once you get going.

Thanks! I’ve not heard of anything like that no - I guess you’d need a lot of film, but it would need processing anyway so I’m really not sure how that would work.

This is a FILM camera.

@@marmaly thanks for the reply. I have seen film cameras in the past such as a miniDV cam that had a tape you inserted but ran a cord out the back (from the tape itself- think like your car cassette tapes and aux cable) to feed a live signal for use like as a monitor camera. Also the question was answered. Thanks.

Hey - well the electronic aspect refers to the zoom, right. In my person opinion, an electronic zoom is a bit of a gimmick, and I can't see a scenario where I would use it outside of novelty homemade family videos. But you can achieve the same result with a manual zoom. So I just wouldn't factor it in when choosing a camera. Hope that helps.

Glad it was helpful!

Hey! The test I would do: set it to auto and look through the viewer. As you move the camera around and point at different things, the light meter should move. Then stick it on manual, and do the same thing and make sure the meter sticks. That’s about all you can do.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 thank you sir !

@@skdlmfqsdf anytime

Thank you, I’m glad it found it useful. I was planning to do a tungsten filter themed video, but being honest I find making these videos quite awkward and aren’t confident people need them… although this video has done very well. I’ll try my best to explain it now though… So ignore the built in function for a second, keep the plug in the top (mines red), this disengages the built in function. Historically, all film lights were tungsten in temperature, therefore all film was balanced this way. Imagine the film starts bluer to compensate for the warm tungsten lights. That means if you’re shooting indoors with tungsten’s lamps etc, your 200T and 500T would be nicely balanced. Now obviously if you shoot outdoors, the light is neutral, therefore they make a 50D (daylight), where the starting point is less blue and more neutral as it doesn’t need to compensate. As you’re most likely going to use 50D outdoors, and the other too indoors, that’s why the tungsten balanced film available has been designed in this way, I guess it’s the most economic. It’s when you shoot outside of these parameters that you need to think about applying a filter. If you want to use your 200T or 500T outside, you no longer have your tungsten lights to compensate for, you need to give it temperature with a filter. You can take the red plug out the top, or apply an external filter. This is the most common use for it. On the flip side, if you were confident you had enough light to use 50D indoors, and you have warm tungsten lighting(!), you can actually purchase the opposing ‘cooling’ filter, to prevent it being too warm. Having said all of that, we are now in an age of digital editing, and you can very easily compensate for warm/cool footage in post. Both the programs I use, Nuke and premiere literally have temperate colour correction controls for this very task. So, if you are ever worried you got it wrong, which I do all the time, there is literally nothing to worry about. I hope that makes sense… it’s a while since I’ve thought about it any detail and can be a bit of a mind F to get your head around!

Hey Shahin, yeah, that's a toughy. It could be a dodgy wire, or the motor could be knackered. The tricky thing with super 8 cameras is finding out... you could either be brave and take it apart yourself, or find someone to take a look for you... I got the light meter fixed on mine and it cost more than I paid for the camera. Maybe you know a tech wizard who you trust that might be able to at least check the mechanicals for you?

Awesome, glad it was helpful! Would love to see it!

@@pumpkinmonkeypictures I'll send you the link when I finish it :) I'm shooting it today

@@pumpkinmonkeypictures I've just finished my first roll, but I have no idea how to take it out!! I've tried Google but there's only tutorials for how to load it. Am I meant to just take the cartridge out? Because I'm trying to do that but it's really hard?

@@Sofia-nc1tu there is a little catch at the bottom, you just pull on that and it should slide it out. The film is all safe in the cartridge so don’t worry about that.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 Thank you so much! xx

I probably used manual, it’s the reason I bought this camera really. I would have used auto to set it, then locked it in with manual.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 okay thank you! I will give that a go

Awesome. Yeah, that’s how I do it. Sorry if this is a silly question, but have you adjusted the eye piece? You need to turn that to match your eye first. Also, make sure you’re not too wide open with the aperture, otherwise you’ll really struggle to hold focus. Anything below 5.6 can get a bit tricky.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 thank you!! yeah I just adjusted my eyepiece and its working heaps better

Ah good! It’s often the simple things. It’s what I love and hate about these analog cameras…

Glad it was helpful!

Awesome! Glad it helps!

Awesome! Hope it helps!

كاميرا جيدة

Hey! Yes they are. You just need to make sure you get the right size lens diameter. These are 58mm, which I THINK is pretty standard. They match my Canon 600D DSLR anyway.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 awesome! Thanks for the reply brother.. I’m really new to this- how would I find “the right size lens” 😅 what are we referring to?

@@madskdz No worries! So your camera obviously has a fixed lens, as in it can't come off. This means anything you want to add on, like filters or in this case wide converters, you'll just need to find the size that fits your camera/lens. If you have a dslr, depending on the lens collection you have, you might have to buy multiple for the different sized lenses. You could simply measure the diameter of your lens, or google it - eg. Canon 814 Autozoom lens diameter. Then when you know that, just look for a wide converter for that size (eg. wide converter 58mm). If youre new to it, it does start to get a little confusing with all the measurements, as mutliple things are measured in mm... Does that help? What camera have you got?

@@pumpkinmonkeypictures very helpful! I think I understand better now 🧐 I have a Bauer C Royal 6e

Based on this, your filter size is 49mm - www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_bauer/cameras_bauer.htm

Hey! No you only get one in a pack, and you then have to pay on top to get it processed and digitised... The best thing to do is to buy a bundle from a processing shop - one I use is like £65 for a cartridge + processing. Super8 was only ever designed for amateur filmmaking, like home videos. So if you want to shoot something more substantial you would have to buy multiple reels, or use a bigger camera, like a 16mm or a 32mm - but you would still be required to use multiple reels.

Glad it was helpful. Sounds like you got a steal!

Whaaaat-I bought mine yesterday and it cost me £270!

Hey! Nah, you're safe with the manual exposure button. I think it was just a trick of the light. It's must easier to use (and probably designed to be used) with the remote. The only way to stop it rolling the way I demonstrate is by turning that knob, which doesn't feel right. However if you do it with the remote, the motor doesn't engage unless you hold the button down, much tidier. As for manual exposure. There is light meter in the viewerfinder, I use this whilst on auto to find where I want to set the exposure. You can point at different things to see where you lie. For example if you set your exposure based on the sky, your characters would be very dark - and visa versa you'll blow out the sky. But once you're happy you can go back to manual and set it based on that.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 Oh, ok, so you could actually come very close to your subject, so he/she fills the frame [maybe you can zoom into them, instead]- then you see what f/stop the camera is at [as that's what auto-meter tells you is the right exposure for the subject] - Then you switch to Manual exposure, and set that same f/stop and you could shoot that backlit scene you wanted without compromising your subject. I think i got it. What is your preferred shutter angle, and how is it practically set on your 814?

@@eladbari yeah exactly, I would go for the zoom approach personally rather than moving your set up incase the light is different. Tbh I don’t really worry about shutter angle with super8, cause you can’t really change it - not on the 814 anyway. But it would depend on the frame rate. If I am shooting at 24, which I do normally, I’d hope for something around 180 so I get quite natural motionblur. There’s a lot of info about it in the document I think, but like I said I haven’t delved too deep into the specifics as it’s mostly designed to be a point and shoot camera.

​@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 Oh, definitely, man. Super8 is totally a point & shoot camera. It's that extra step you take- that makes a difference: 1. Manually exposing shots (to avoid silhouettes) 2. Setting your shutter angle (I did not like the XL cameras with 220 shutter angle, as objects are smeared, and you can choose your own angle with the 814, using those 2+4 switches, couldn't figure it out yet) 3. Maybe mounting your Super8 on a small rig to avoid jittery shakes That's what I'm trying to figure out to upgrade the Super8 game..

@@eladbari Yeah, I have a rig I try to chuck it on when I am doing stuff a little less snap-happy, helps a lot. It's definitely worth getting hold of a manual, it will have all the shutter angle info in it. But the 2-4 thing youre talking about it is 'variable shutter angle'. If you set it to 2, you will get half of your shutter angle (auto set by the cartridge/stock), then 4 is half again. You can use it as a manual fade to black if you're so inclined.

Thanks! These were processed at Gauge Film in the UK. Very reasonably priced compared to others!

Hey! So the camera will use anything you chuck in there, as it's an analog process. I imagine you are referring to the spec that it only automatically sets the film speed at 400asa. In this case, i 'hope' it sets it to shoot at 400, in which case it slightly over exposes your image - which isn't at all a bad thing if you are able to grade your footage. And if you don't want this, you can always set it manually and compensate for it if you are comfortable doing that. Hopefully that answers your question?

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 I just bought one since I see your video using a 500asa film. I have a couple of them at home and I'm about to shoot a music video soon. I was afraid that it wouldn't read or something since it's automatic the Asa reading, but now I'm a little bit more confident that will work just fine. There's somewhere in the viewfinder maybe showing the Asa seted by the cam? Or we can really just hope that she chooses 400? 😰 anyway, I would like to thank you for the content. It really was helpful and make me comfortable to buy my first super 8 film camera ❤

@@leonaugusto3283 that’s really great to hear! There isn’t anything no. It’s just a little reader that picks up the shape of a notch. Either way, most my stuff on 500t was shot on auto and it will work great!

Hey, so that’s for a couple of different things. I mainly use it to check that the film actually flows through the camera. So right at the beginning, you can put a little mark on, flash the trigger and see if it’s moved - you’d lose a fraction of a second. The other option is to actually mark where you got to, if you want to change stocks for example. You’d mark on the the film basically what the gauge on the side says. So when you go back to that one you know how much you have left. I agree it’s a ropey approach, but I think the more you do it the more you’re used to it and recognise the sound when you get to the end of the reel.

Hey, sorry for the delayed reply - and also if this a duplicate. I recently did some shuffling with my account and all my comments got deleted. Basically, yes. I experimented with on and off, and also with an external one, which I think I preferred. All in all though, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. In this day and age it’s very easy to fix it in post, and if you’re not comfortable with it, mention it to the processor and they’ll compensate for it. In my opinion, if you need that extra 0.5-1 stop of exposure, the temperature is a free sacrifice. I hope that helps. I’m thinking of making a vid about that soon, do you think that would help?

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 The first thing I do with every new Super-8 camera I get is get an external 85 filter. That is, unless the cameras have the same filter size.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 United States, Ive heard Pro 8mm is a good option but not sure what to go with.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 ok thank you I appreciate the help!

@@isaac.gnz23 I'm so sorry, I genuinely didnt see your comments. I have heard Pro 8mm are very reliable. I would advise checking out the reddit forum, there are a lot of US based filmakers on there who will have a better knowledge of processors in the states.

@@isaac.gnz23 I'm so sorry, I genuinely didnt see your comments. I have heard Pro 8mm are very reliable. I would advise checking out the reddit forum, there are a lot of US based filmakers on there who will have a better knowledge of processors in the states.

p.s - I changed account recently, so I may well be replying twice here... but hopefully you got what you needed!

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 Thanks!! I sold it on ebay and had it returned because buyer said manual shutter wasn't working (I always relied on auto) anyway, it seems the manual shutter works fine.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 yes, that was her complaint and she referred me to website with that. She said the needle was staying at the right and not moving. But I am yet to find out if she even slid that lock to the left. It's working fine for me.

@@pumpkinmonkeyanalog6022 thanks. No, I misunderstood you. I was confusing variable shutter with manual. When I pull the manual toggle out it stays open so is broken after all. How much would you say the camera is worth now?