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Am doing a 351 Windsor with afr.s 185 with the 202 valve do you no if the voodoo cam valve Pistons clearance do you no if it will work

What brand was it?

Pro tip: Should have thrown it at the tool box at the end. Memorable

i’d recommend disassembling before electrolysis and probably some more wire brushing!

Use to have that same one it also ended up in the trash lol it grenaded on me.

What beand is it... Looks like SK..

Pokey scrapey drawer. Nice.

Another great detailed lesson on video! Hours of painstaking work by you concensed to a mere 30 minutes for me, thank you!

Great work on engine, video, editing, narration, and education!

What fuel pressure regulator did you use. I did the same swap but had problems with the fuel tanks.if I ran front it returned to the rear and if I used rear it returned to the front tank.

Doing Carb conversion on my 1997 F 250 HD with 5 speed. Funny how butt hurt people get with stock EFI. I do want to try aftermarket EFI

I wish I knew how to rebuild my 1994 bronco 351 with 200K miles on it.

Getting ready to do the same great video. Hopefully I don’t shoot a piston like a bottle rocket haha

I am planning on swapping some Rockwell 2.5 ton axles into my 1994 Bronco with a 351W/E4OD. I will also be using an old school NP200 T-Case. Given that I will no longer have a VSS in the axle and won’t be able to relocate it to the transfer case, will I be able to use the Quick Shift to control the shift points?

There’s nothing wrong with a good Holley or even Edelbrock carburetor,they’re simple, easy to fix, won’t leave you stranded, plus get rid of that big ugly EFI intake.

I'm sorry to say but if you use silicone on a gasket it is not made for gaskets that gasket will mash up and start leaking never ever ever ever ever ever ever you should have gone on gaskets you can use it on certain rubber gaskets but it's a no no, supposed to use aviation permatex or I used to use spray tacky. If you haven't put the engine in you need to change your gaskets silicon will eat them up and they will start leaking.

did much the same to a 92 - carb swapped a 351 and installed the controller. Been a couple of years now and it works great. Regarding your brakes and the soft pedal - do you recall if it was that soft before you carb swapped it? I ask, because the brake pedal went from perfect to very soft after the carb swap. brakes work fine - just a long and soft pedal. No leaks that we can find. I wonder if it has something to do with how the engine pulls vacuum with a carb vs efi? Too little vac would mean a hard pedal - could it be too much? will be interested in what you find. Great job!

If your brakes are hanging up check the rubber lines to the wheels. They can become deteriorated inside and prevent fluid from returning properly.

You can make a air adapter out of an old plug, just remove the porcelain and drill out the innards then weld an air chuck to it. Then you can send 100psi constantly into cyl and that valve will never move.

Too much fuel pressure, 5lbs max for your set up

Good job thanx for showing us how to do it

Thanks for sharing, however you have a lot of guts using a Comp flat tappet cam shift! Have you not heard about all the Comp cam failures???? So many UA-cam videos out there on it. And the Cam failures were NOT people that did a poor break-In, they were racers etc that knew what they were doing. Good Luck.

Never bore a 351 winsor too 60 over it make the cylinder walls thin and they leak anti freeze and hope you use a 1969 cougar xr7 crank its cast iron

Kudos on the carb conversion Can't wait to do the same thing to mine

man inspiring me ! might really do this, thx for the vid

Cool neighbors

How do you shift the transmission if the valve body has solenoids that are controlled by the ecm?

I appreciate the full length video! Not many on youtube. Will have to do this soon too and its a little nerve wracking!

Is this an ho 351w

hey man just wondering when you but your distributor in where did you point the rotor i cant find anything online for where its need to be pointing at TDC

At the 6:53 sec mark.. you got one done …15 more to go…good luck

Great video pls make more

Replace your pistons on the rods backwards and you release the drag on the engine.

Nice

Enjoyed your video I have a 93 f150 4x4 Flareside it has the 5.0 but I have a 351w I'm going to rebuild and put in it thanks for the video

Hi , you don't need to do it all in one go , two lots of 10 minutes will work as well , this is why going to hyd roller can be heaps easier, especially if you have a decent springs and have removed the inners, for run in , I normally leave the cap off the radiator and keep topping it off , you have to bleed the air out ,I was surprised when you just took the cap off , you can get scolded easily, hope you had plenty of water in there , some gauges read normal temp with no water as the steam heat , is the same .

Hey , you mentioned about not trusting 4 carb bolts , id did a reasonable amount of crane work and even a 4" nail thats been skewed in will hold one 1 tonne , so 4 5/16 bolts are easily strong enough to hold a complete engine . . Cheers.

Are you running a High Volume oil pump ?

Checking the timing is important to get it close for now, but running it with the choke shut is a no no. Simply reach over to the side of the carb, loosen the three screws on the choke assm and rotate till the choke opens, tighten screws. You did a pretty good job! One thing to remember, we are trying to get the cam and lifters to mate together. We want the lifters to spin in their bore and break in on the camshaft. When you vary the engine speed a little , within the 2-3k window, it lubes everything and causes the lifters to spin. Hope it turned out well!

Is it a stock block? I hear 60 over isnt a good idea but could be wrong

I don't understand why people still use advertised duration now that the duration at .050 is available. advertised duration can be completely misleading for where peak power is going to be.

If you add a little heavy grease to your keepers they will hold themselves to the stems better

I'm building a 385 w for my 86 , it's got a eagle 3.750 crank , autotec forged +.040 crower rods ,comp retro fit roller 218 deg small cam , world products senior heads , my front dress is 90 f150 serpentine and AC pump , and running a single 75mm TB and a older Motec computer. I like the 351w they go really well . Cheers.

You could label this ASMR😂 For real tho great video.

Pood or pulled???? Grow up

Good job man. One thing I would recommend is putting the part numbers in the description of the video and/or pictures of them in the video itself. Things such as the part numbers for the cam, bolt kits, what intake you used etc

Very good video! I'm beginning or continuing a ground up rebuild on my 93 F150 have a 94 351 Windsor roller motor that I'm attempting a low-budget rebuild so like your motor no trick or afr heads, stock. I've been reading up and trying to decide what kind of combinations of parts using what I have .Not going to be a daily driver. Your video was very helpful.

With all the issues going on with flat tappet lifters, did you inspect the ones you put in? I'm building a 351w for my 76 f100 and I'm nervous to go the flat tappet route.

How difficult was it to connect the engine to the torque converter?

Was that truck a fuel injected before and 4x4