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Knifey McKnifeface
United States
Приєднався 25 кві 2022
Blaster X Review
One year review of Blaster X Tail light, this one is on a Ninja 250. This is a customer review, not an "unboxing".
Переглядів: 18
Відео
How to sharpen a knife using a guided sharpening system
Переглядів 4,5 тис.6 місяців тому
This is an instructional video for beginners using guided sharpening systems. The process I have explained here will get you started. I wrote down everything I struggled with when I began and could not find answers for, I made this video before I forgot what it was like as a beginner. Feel free to ask questions. I have only been sharpening for 2 years but I will be glad to share what I do know....
Guided Sharpening System: Advice Before You Buy
Переглядів 59 тис.2 роки тому
I have not received any products for free, payment in any form, discounts or rebates. I am simply sharing my experience so that you can understand how much guided sharpening systems cost to purchase and operate.
Very informative. One of the best I’ve seen. I will say however, the sharpening community itself is very opinionated and I’m a newish sharpener myself but I got some bad criticism on a video using water on my stones(in general wetting them). What is your reasoning for using water? I know why I do it but I’d like to know your opinion.
I travel for work and constantly pack up my system, I do not want a bottle of oil leaking all over everything. I used oil with my Lansky and cleaning the stones was tedious, I don't miss using it. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the advice man!
The message IS just take your knives and have them sharpened as needed. lol
Is your hapstone still working well for you?
"grit" rating means absolutely nothing. It is just a number given by the manufacturer to index their own materials.
Many thanks for your instruction video. This will be my goto video in the future. Greetings from Sweden and from BoH
Hey I have a few questions if you wouldn’t mind: 1: When I’m done with my final 1000 grit stone should I remove the burr with a pencil prior to stropping or will the stropping alone be enough to remove it as 1000 grit is so fine? 2: You say “As a newbie you will have trouble removing the burr. As you gain experience you will be able to remove the burr without using a pencil”. When I gain experience how will I be removing the burr without a pencil? I’m assuming that I’ll get so good at weakening the burr that it will be weak enough that removing it with a pencil is pointless? 3: Ok so sharpen side 1 and feel for burr on side 2. Then sharpen side 2 enough [hopefully about the same] to feel a burr on side 1. Do I remove the burr with a pencil at this point or do I only use the pencil after progressively switching back and forth using less and less strokes/pressure/single light stropping strokes? In your vid you waited until you were completely done with the first 80 grit stone before using the pencil. But when using the 150 grit stone you pencil de-burred after creating the initial burrs on both sides, not after finishing by flipping using progressively less strokes/pressure/single stropping strokes.
1. When you finish using your final stone it is fine to use the pencil before stropping, I did it this way when starting out. 2. The way you will be removing the burr without a pencil will be a combination of stropping strokes with your final stone, all the way down to "onesies", and by using a strop. With experience you will be able to feel and see that the burr is gone while it is still in the clamps. Here is a tip for recognizing the burr. When you start with a new stone use your fingernail to check for the bur. After you are certain you have a burr all the way down the bevel, and you then flip the knife, look before using the stone. You will be able to see "shiny' spots along your bevel, these are each place your fingernail had caught the burr on the opposite side. As you progress through your stones continue to do this. You will slowly learn to recognize the burr, even when it is at 1,000 or 1,200 grit. 3.It is difficult to keep things linear in a video. The only time you need to use the pencil to remove the burr is when you have completely finished with a stone. So use the pencil only once with each stone.
can you do a separate video on the line in the Bevel tip. I couldn't see the line in the Bevel, I'm not sure what to check for
Short answer no, I will not be making a video specifically for lines in the bevel. Videos take a lot of time. If you pay extra attention after each stone change you will catch it, it only happens then or if you did not tighten something down. Repetition is the key. Line up each stone in the same place every time and at exactly the same angle, not even one tenth of a degree difference. If you are not using a digital angle finder like the one in my video you will soon be a master at spotting lines because it will happen repeatedly.
@@knifeymcknifeface7166 Thank you, I'm just getting into my knife sharpening journey. so I'm trying to get as much information as possible
Perfect tutorial, all necessary things really good explained 👍🍻 THX for upload. Cheers from 🇦🇹
Thanks a lot for the video. I'm surprised it didn't get enough exposure , considering the quality info shared :( Good luck!
Your pushing down way too hard, you need not grab the handle that hard, I use 2 fingers and let the weight of the stones/handle do the work
hmmmmmm... I think ur a bit off with the notion that you dont need to "lap" diamond stones. Resin Bonded DIamond, Resin Bonded CBN, Metal Bonded Diamond, and Metal Bonded CBN all need to be "lapped" every couple sharpenings (but not in the traditional sense) as well as PRIOR to the FIRST time you use them. Your essentially just "revealing" the diamonds and verifying they are truely level before use. I recommend using a glass plate that has been etched for using SIC powder with them. Jende makes an excellent kit for this and so does Hapstone. You put some fine powder on the glass etched side and splash some water then grind your stone on there for 20 seconds, done! Then use the medium SIC powder on your medium stones, and finally put the course powder on the glass and grind down your course diamond stones. This will not only ENSURE all your stones are LEVEL, but it will also reveal the cutting points on the diamonds and pull back some of the binding agent.
Don't have to lap if you are using electroplated diamonds.
Great video! Thanks 👍
You say a mirror polished edge for a kitchen knife won't cut paper.... That's not what I experimented. I actually finish all my blades with a 30.000 shapton glass stone (just for fun... And it doesn't surely take me hours doing that, just spend few minutes on a 3000 10000 30000 sequence after I've removed the burr created by diomond stones) and I get crazy sharp edges. I mean I get hair whittling edges, and I don't either see any difference in dulling speed compared to a corser finished edge. The only thing I noticed is that finest shapton glass stones used with edge leading motion tend to create micro chippings, but I solved it by using them with edge trailing motions. So I go back and Forth with 400 - 800 - 1500 - 3000, and then just edge trailing strokes with 10000 and 30000.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I am a knife collector, and finally, after all these years, I bought a knife sharpening system. Hapstone R2 with the upgraded vertical adjustment. I have a bunch of cheaper knives to practice on but could not find any introductions for beginners until i found this video. Best by far, i have seen. You should be sponsored by a few companies in this video, too.
Great video Knifey! I noticed the union bug on your spray bottle. Journeyman wireman here out of 26. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
I'm out of the Dirty 130, thanks for watching brother.
I have an earlier version of the Hapstone. I’ve been sharpening for a few years now. I really appreciated the detailed instruction you provided in this video. While my knives come off sharp, I learned some basic mistakes I’ve been making. I should be able to take my sharpening skills to the next level by following your instructions. Thanks! 👍
good stuff brother
Great video!
Great review
Exceptional detail. Thank you!
Great video. Most detailed that I have seen.
What a breath of fresh air. If only other reviewers adopted your straightforward and frank approach. We'd all be better off. About the Hapstone, I'm surprised by the amount of flex. Like you, I doubt that much harm is done by it. But I think that it actually bends more than my WS Precision Pro. Anyway, thanks and march on. 🔥
F rating on venev stones is totally different than the standard grit rating. The f400 is around 1000 grit in ANSI. Great video this will be a big help for beginners.
Yes, I like on the Venev stones that they list the micron range too. Like, the 50/40 on the F240 is just that. It's much easier relate to everything in microns since there seems to be so many variations in grit ratings.
Love to see you do some freehand sharpening. You give great detailed instructions and it’s greatly appreciated. Thank you.
neeves knives is the master god of free handed sharpening if you need to learn.
Friend, it's nice to see a video of yours again, I hope you feel well! and thanks for your recomendations!
Good to hear from you as well.
Thanks Knifey! I'm still figuring my way around freehanding but when I step up... I will never have a dull blade again...
I just rounded those two corners with a file and no annoyance any more!
What angle finder would you recommend? Klein tools is a good brand but cheap :(
Thanks for this very helpful video. Like you said right at the beginning- most of the videos are a lot of rah rah and thin on actual performance. Appreciate greatly that you showed the good and the bad. Subscribed.
Just found this video. This is an awesome video I wish I would have seen before purchasing stuff. Thank you for sharing your experience and cost.
Thanks, good information. Was thinking about purchasing a guided system but now I’ve decided against it.
Thank you for your time and efforts in making this video.
Do you purchase blank plates from Hapstone or another vendor?
a company saying their stones don't need lapped after purchase sure reminds me of vehicle manufacturers saying that their ATF is a "lifetime" fluid.......... ya ok hahaha
That knife at 5:00 does not have a consistent sharpening angle.
Its a variable grind like the mora kansbol, looks wierd.
Im a norwegian fisherman. a sharp knife is a must for me. I dont have time for all this systems while being on the sea. Buy a course diamond rod, and a fine ceramic rod. Learn to be consistant with your angles, and you wil have a rasor sharp endge within 20 seconds. Want sharp knifes? Buy thin bladed knifes. want to have a nightmare knife? Buy thick knifes of some super hard material. you are welcome.
Field sharpening is essential for people work in wilderness. But think like this, you put precise and long lasting edge on your knives when at home, so they need less honing when in the field. And not all guided sharpening devices are this complex, Spyderco sharpmaker is a portable and simple guided sharpening device that contains in a relatively small polymer case. Additionally, it is exactly like what you mentioned, you can pick up an additional set of CBN or diamond coarse rods and with the included of medium and fine rods, then you will acquire a self contained sharpening system, capable to perform either a quick fix or creating a shaving edge. You can also take only the rod without the base and use it as a regular honing rod, if you want it even more portable. The base have screw holes so you can fix it to your boat and it won’t fall off during harsh weathers. The total cost won’t be over 200$.
Very knowledgeable information for knife sharpening systems, they are much more expensive than just a leather strop.
I don't care how precise and matched a set is. If you use one or two stones from a set then they will always be different. Even the diamonds on a DMT are different heights because wait for it, THE DIAMONDS ARE DIFFERENT SIZES. A sharpie between every stone change is manitory for my work.
@johnDoe-zb7dz only if you are pedantic.
Beyond amazing. I'm used to $250 (each and I use 4 of them) Japanese water stones and an $800 guided sharpening system. If you want the best edge...wet stones . ..but you're gonna spend time and money. The difference between a wet stone edge and this device is maybe 5-10 percent. No one will ever notice. However.. make sure you don't take off too much material from your knife!
Outstanding 101 video, and that’s coming from a hobbyist who’s got a “fleet” of stones, systems, and whet stones. Newbies, listen to all the advise in here. It’s all similar to my experience. Lastly, realize 2 things. One, not all grit rating systems are the same. Google “the unified grit chart” to see all or many of the rating systems. 2- that a 1000 grit finish is probably a good finish for every day use. I can and do go up to 10k, but that’s probably more for fun then need. Ok, BS. I do like a 3 or 5 k finish in my Japanese kitchen knives as I can slice paper thin tomatoes, but it’s not necessary. As an added bonus, listen to the pint about the need for lower grits. You’ll spend, or should spend, MOST of your time on these stones to create the burr and apex. The science can get daunting if you’d like to do a deep dive, but remember the apex is all that matters, or mostly all.. lol Thanks for listening to this Ted talk!
Super helpful
What brand of sharpener is the one featured at 5:20? Do you have a link so that I can check it out?
Looks like a Hapstone to me.
Hapstone r2
I appreciate the fact you give credit, where credit is due, Jerod has a way of explaining his techniques that are easily understood, others are great at sharpening too, but not always as understood as jerod is. I'm still learning a great deal from the blade community, we are never to old to be wise enough to think we know it all, I try not to do that, I do try not to learn the hard way but it happens Anyway have a great day Sir,
I use DMT diamond plates, and sharpen by hand. I have 400, 600, and 1200 grit. I have a 30,000 grit but your knife better be real sharp before you even use that. All my knives turn out very sharp. When they aren't, I re sharpen. No guides "systems" yet.
Sharpening systems are for those who don't really know how to or don't want to put the work and effort into learning whetstones, a person with great skills will achieve great results freehand, any monkey will achieve a good to great result with a good system
My bad. My final hone is not 30000, it is 8000. Smooth as a polished metal surface though. You can barely hear it cut.
Great, thanks..
Excellent video, thank you.
I purchased the hapstone R2 basic. Sure I upgraded some attachments. But, was glad I did it. This way I have exactly what I prefer and don't need. Ive sharpened 14" blades no problem. I will agree with you on the clamping system. It does need improvement. But over all for me, best investment.
you know that the system has a built in angle compensator right?
Very good overview! Everybody should see the before venturing blindly into the money pit that is guided sharpening systems.