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Yes! you are correct. I didn't have a bearing on me at the time and honestly, it's not that bad. The main issue is it being so top heavy with the engine installed.

@@rick14377 Yeah, I think the BB is too high, if you cut and reweld the frame to drop the BB 3cm the handlebars will drop about 6cm. Might be worth it.

I'm thinking it's a sleeve or a bushing of some kind, I've never had something on the crank like that before. Is your trike an E-trike? E-bikes/trikes cranks are a little more sophisticated. If it's a bushing or sleeve, then it's most likely pressed on so you would need to press it off.

I wouldn't suggest it. The 212cc will absolutely eat it up, also you would need the specific chain that goes with the sprockets and it's very skinny, the 212cc will snap it. I've tried it before, and it didn't work for me.

With this project, I wanted to keep the rear basket. I know it's easier to mount the engine in the rear, but I wanted to Challange myself for this one. But now looking back on in, the engine in the back is the best way to go and if you mount it directly to the wheel, you'll have some room to mount a small basket. I'll probably attempt this again in the future with one of my BMX bikes.

It would be simpler (most likely better) to mount it to the wheel. The axle on these trikes is too small, 15mm or 5/8. A lot of stress is put on that little axle to have the same results if you just mount it to the wheel directly. There's less stress on the wheel since it has a larger diameter than the axle and you don't need a jack shaft.

I doubt he's done enough riding to notice anything considering this video is two days old....

Not that I notice so far. But when the drive does wear, it would be the tire and not so much the roller on the engine. And I would imagine if you ride on dirt roads or trials, it will wear faster because of the extra grit from the dirt. As for the rate of wear? I don't know yet.

Thanks man! you do have one of the simplest designs for a friction drive especially using a goose neck. using the welder just opens ups more possibilities

I could put disk brakes in the front and mount the calipers on the spindle, but I would have to replace the wheels with ones that have the disk brake hub. It's kind of a grey area on how this thing is classified, it's under 149cc and only gets to 25mph so as long as I ride it one streets, the cops leave me alone.

I used hi temp grease, any hi temp grease can work. Over time you have to check for lubrication and at that time, you would add more

Yeah, that would be the natural progression at this point. I will do this on one of the bmx bikes I have and slap a 20'' tricycle rear conversion on it. It'll be a bit before I do that tho.

​@@rick14377 It would be cool if you built a mini quadricycle using a BMX in the same way you used the BMX to make this reverse tricycle.

It's only a 98cc engine. It doesn't have nearly the power to justify stretching the rear.

Thanks man! I try to do more experimental diy things

Yeah, I was going to add a brace there and across the control arms too but I'm waiting to see where my clearance is for the steering.

I want to do a hybrid, both E and G trike. They can operate together or independently from each other.

I don't know the name of the brand, but it's an adult tricycle w/ 7 speed. You can look it up on amazon or walmart.com.

It'll be worth it, I always enjoyed motorizing trikes. It's definitely a challenge.

3 things: You can use tensioners or idler sprockets to avoid having the chain rub on the frame. You could also use a jack shaft, that will help with alignment. It will also allow you to mount the sprockets where you need them. If you are going to mount the engine in the center like I did in this build, I would highly recommend the jack shaft. I believe you can buy a bolt on jack shaft so that way you don't have to weld it on. I think the Schwinn meridian is an aluminum frame so welding might not be an option. Lastly, if the driven sprocket on the axle doesn't fit in-between the frame, you may have to use a smaller axle sprocket. If you do this, just increase the driven sprocket on the jack shaft.

Thank you , appreciate it. This being my 1st gas bicycle anything I just want to do it as right as possible

Question: Where did you get the jack shaft if you didn’t make your own and how long inch wise

@@WinstonMyers-il5dl I got the Jack shaft from OMBwarehouse. They have complete jack shaft kits, and I got the 12'' shaft kit. I tend to get larger shafts because I can always cut them to size. They come with 2 sprockets, a 17t 40 chain and a 13t 40 chain. However, since the sprocket on my clutch is 35 chain, I didn't use the 17t sprocket. Instead, I used a 36t 35 chain sprocket. You can use any size sprocket and chain, just as long as the sprocket bore is the same diameter as the shaft.

@@WinstonMyers-il5dl You can cut the jack shaft with some power tools like a chop saw, band saw, portable band saw, or angle grinder. If you don't have power tools, you can use a hack saw. that will take a while to cut through and it may not be a straight cut. the jack shaft I used didn't have threads on either end, through you can use a jack shaft with threaded ends. If you have to cut a jack shaft with threaded ends, you can use a lock collar on the side you cut. I recommend welding the lock collar to the shaft, but if you don't have a welder, the set screws will be good enough. Just make sure you torque the set screws down and use lock tight.

I just use the music from youtube's studio, if you dont' like it, I won't use it.

But you lose the basket, the utility of the tricycle. I've built a trike with the motor in the back (my yellow trike), and it is way easier to build but no basket. Would like to see your trike.

@@rick14377 You can easily put another basket up front. Which is my plan. But the motor up front honestly makes no sense unless it’s the two wheel bike 🚲 with a small motor in between the frame. Idm losing the basket for a more sensible construction

This would be the ultimate store runner. You could carry a keg or a person on the back. Hauling camping stuff...🍻

I pedal for exercise and to save on the clutch.

Well I went to your channel, and answered my own question about brakes and all, thank you for sharing your project.

@@Patrick-rk9vw yeah, I only did that because I couldn't find a hub with a 15mm diameter at the time so instead I welded the 5/8 spacer to it. I found a company that sells trike parts, and they have a 15mm hub but it's too late. I already did the damage.

So, you have two options, you either buy a hub from amazon which is $50, or you make the hub yourself. I made my own hub with a 5/8'' spacer and welded it to the drum brake. You can also use lock collars but keep in mind, the axle is 15mm in diameter and the spacer or lock collars are 5/8''. So, try your best to center it up on the drum brake. I also made my own jackshaft to help align the sprocket on the engine and the axle. I do have a video on this, I think its part 4 or 5 were I do this. You can also check out my newer video where I build another one of these trikes. Part 4 is what you're looking for.