Відео

It certainly wont hurt. As long as you can get the heating element around the bolt, it should be able to heat it up until it's glowing.

Very late reply but the main obstacle to removing brake line fittings is the rust on the outside of the line not allowing the fittings to loosen. I just dealt with this by wire brushing the rust from outside of the line and soaking it and the threads with penetrant and occasionally blowing the loose rust off while turning. Also, I had good luck with holding the rear wheel cylinder with an adjustable wrench and turning it off the line, rather than trying to turn the line off the wheel cylinder.

You're right. Since it's from a 1981, it's now 42 years old and not 40.

Could it catch fire from putting oil on it when the bolt is still red hot?

@@faYte0607 Yep it does if your on orange or red heat, for a second or two. Obviously common sense says, petrol fumes, thinners, flammable gas in the immediate zone is a no no. Ive 50 years experience in oxy acetylene torch use whilst it will get the job done there is orders of magnitude more risk of fire, with moderate common sense an induction coil is of minor risk...hell i bought one!

Also you can add ordinary candle wax, or paraffin wax. The wax gets pulled into the threads by capillary action to lubricate the threads.

Good to know

Mostly heat concentration. A torch would likely do the job but you risk heating the cylinder head more broadly. If tolerances are tight (some engines inexplicably have no exhaust gaskets from the factory), it's probably best to minimize that.

Indeed. Since my last comment, I purchased and used an inductor and I must say that it works fairly well. Love that thing now. :-)@@kylezalewski8948

These are nice for working around heat sensitive materials like wiring harnesses, rubber hoses, o-rings and seals, etc. Great for tight areas where a flamethrower just causes too much collateral damage.

Often some of these exhaust or Engine nuts / bolts are not as accessible as we see here - squinting up from underneath through a mass of wire or flammable stuff - I use an Oxy Accelyne torch and you have to put lots of heat shields and blah - this thing has no flame - so a big game changer

@@TotalFreedomTTT-pk9st Indeed, now that I own one, I am not wandering anymore how it differs from a conventional torch, and I'm pretty happy with this tool. 🙂

It was a nut he was heating, not a bolt. Did you watch the video?

Thanks for your comment Mark. I posted a question on Amazon to find out the length of the cord and what gauge/length of extension I should use. Neither the puchasers or the seller responded. I'm going under my car to remove/replace the O2 sensors and the cord looks only long enough for bench work applications. Cheers

What the name of it?

@@mujeebshahwali5072Amazon, look for any of the induction nut heaters with the blue hard case. All the same manufacturer. They work.

And you hadn’t destroyed the hardware with the other methods? That’s experience, right there.

The water heaters have a similar shape, but those aren't induction heaters, just resistance heaters. The shape of the water heaters is just an easy way to get more of the heating element into a small size.

@@hwingerrr5680 explain....in detail the difference how these operate. don't get all technical on us.....dumb it down to where we can all understand it. 🤨

I’ll try…the coffee heater is designed to electrically short in a safe manner. The short heats the coil which heats the coffee. Remember that you must keep the hot coil submerged in liquid, or it will overheat and break. The bolt remover works by running an electrical current through the coil which forms a magnetic field. When this field is placed near another metal object it will heat it up but, the coil stays cool(ish) because it was only generating a magnetic field. Just like an induction cooktop.

​@@Chevroletcelebritywires(metals) have resistance so they release some of the energy as heat. The coffe heater mentioned above works by heating up a wire that you put in the water via this resistance. And induction heater archives this by magnetic fields that induces currents in the metals, heating them up by resistance. Basically the first thing, but wirelless.

They are from DGo. The expandable looking sections are just plastic tubing the previous owner had on the previous hoses to protect them from rubbing. I transferred them to the new hoses, but they aren't needed.

It works on bolts and nuts. I don't know if longer bolts will work as well as it will only get part of the bolt glowing red hot. I don't know how much of that heat will transfer down the bolt.

@@jlattin21 That would make for an interesting experiment. Thanks for the response

@@jlattin21 should work as well as a torch, so not that great.

It would be the same as using a torch. A torch would also only heat the head, but of course the heat travels to the threads

Send me one to test 👋🏻

​@@jays_metalworks9399you have 19 subscribers in your dreams.

thanks for the tech homie!

A spritz of penetrating oil on the dry rusted threads would have helped.

thank you

I would think you would compromise the integrity strength of the steel

@@dontbeakaren6145 that might be true but i don’t think daily driving excedes even the reduced strength

@@dontbeakaren6145 the strength of steel returns to normal once cooled back down. I’m a welder, I should know.. This tool is especially good if you’re going to replace the bolts and hardware anyway just in case 😉 👍

@@cruisethewhip as a welder you should know welding makes steel weaker especially in the haz. It's known that steel begins to soften around 425°C and loses about 60% of its strength at 650°C. This is why heating or bending any metal causes microscopic fractures and stress points. I would never reuse a heated bolt that would compromise the integrity of its strength especially a bolt that is under stress or pressure from moving parts. Also for an example there's a reason why motorhead bolts snap when removing them cuz they've been heated and cooled multiple times.

It's crazy how much off-roading has evolved just in the last couple of decades. I took my Jeep back to Moab last week for the first time since 2009 and was blown away by how many more RZRs/side-by-side/buggy type of vehicles there were everywhere instead of Broncos, Jeeps, Xterras, FJ Cruisers, etc. I loved the days of building up your daily driver Jeep and pushing it to the limits, then driving it to work on Monday. Even now, my XJ is no longer my daily, but I still try to find opportunities to take it off of the pavement.

+141bpm In the video description is the answer you're looking for, I believe: The issue was caused by the battery light bulb in the dashboard being burned out. In a DeLorean, that bulb is part of the charging system and it doesn't automatically charge the system if the light doesn't come one when the key is turned to the ON position. After replacing that light, the charging system worked perfectly.

How do you get to and replace the battery bulb. Thank you.