Відео

and did the same code came back? If it is, i would 2x check wirings, also having a scantool on hand will allow you to watch the values of MAF in the data lists. Base on the reading will help you determine if it is reading or not. A faul code that stays on righy after erasing it means it is a wiring issue or faulty ECM.

The check engine light stayed on, wasn’t able to drive it because the car wouldn’t stay on, battery light came on too. I’ll Check the code again. Thank you for responding

Im glad it helped you.

Yes, when in doubt, confirm it before removing

i do not have any. I dont usually flush trans fluid on these cars because most of them are lifetime fluid. I do drain and refill most of the time on newer model cars. If pan is available, i take it out catch all fluids and put same amount back in if there are no leaks occured prior. Removing lines for trans flush requires a machine to perform the service. Some quick connect trans lines on most european cars can be remove using a fuel line disconnecting tool.

I am happy to help!

It is worth trying. But if you are going in there and u feel like its a bit of a challenge, just replace it but still clean it.

Not this one because the fluid have leaked out already when brought to the shop.

I cant remember how i did it :) But i am sure i struggled a bit not having the correct tool

Glad you found it helpful!

Yes, the fuel trims going positive under throttle and negative off-throttle could indicate a boost leak, but it is important to check other possibilities too. Simplest example for system too lean is this, if i open throttle slowly and watch my fuel trims, if it goes to 0 then it is an indication of a vacuum leak. If the lean values gets worst as i open throttle then it is a fuel issue.

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll definitely consider it.

@DRBauto I've run Schaeffers in all my fleet vehicles and the engines are immaculate on the inside. The oil exceeds the Dexos spec that GM has, and is blended with a lot of moly. They have been around since the 1800's. Lubrication Engineers has an additive called Monolec that bonds with the metal, improving wear and reducing friction. Either company will not let you down.

the best and cheapest for the actual PCM is ranging from $300-500. It will be by sending your PCM to any company online that rebuilds auto PCM's. A auto shop will charge you maybe $800-1200, depending on the type of problem you had, since they will charge you for diagnosing the problem.

which one? you meant the exhaust Cam Gear/Actuator

You know u are correct. I actually posted the video before actually did the repair. But the sensor before high presure was actually bad and needed replacement also. So when u get codes like this, most of the time it is the HP pump, but dont get to excited :) 2x check it all. I am saying this because it kicked me back :), better yet, check actual pressure then recommend both pressure sensor and the HP pump. While injectors are exposed do a cylinder balance test. this can really guarantee the work and diagnostics.

I am happy to help

look again

@@DRBautooverlooked I’m sorry your right I just didn’t think oil could get to that but I was dead writing my

Wrong*

i am very happy to help. Very basic and common cause of Crank, Start and Stall issue.

What is wrong :)

Inverted torx socket 1/4" drive and a vice grip to help loosen if it is frozen to the block.

@DRBauto thank you! What size torx Socket did you use? Do u remember?

@@SacRomero i really cant remember, but when u get a cheap set (harbor freight). It will be on the 1/4" drive

@@DRBauto thank u!!

static/ripple sound. Not really worried about it since it is not connected to anything unless u turn the ignition to start/crank position. Now if the sound is solid pithch either high or low before turning it on, then check the LED if its red or green, this will indicate that the component is short to power or ground.

it sure is

Really wierd. But i think there is already a noise happening but they just did not pay attention until this happen.

I dont think its the same. But it is really accesible that u can reach the ignition wire and jump it. Both V6 and 4 Cylinder are easily accesible.

Buy a gas cap and do not drill any holes. If ur code is for small evap leak check that part that i replace and do the same, they are common issue. The next thing to do if it is still throwing fault code of the same issue, is to perform a smoke test to find an actual leak.

Glad you enjoyed it!

Shout out po sa inyo Bro Lito Lucas :)

Salamat po

wow, that is great info. Thanks

Its always nice to start with the simple things before replacing parts.

Sorry, this was during early pandemic time and the company i worked for mandated that we wear one all the time.

Thank you

1st thing i would do is to find out why the car is not starting. Then i will diagnose the evap leak. Even a huge vacuum leak will not cause a no start condition. It may stall or not idle but will start, so 1st thing i would do is find out why it is not starting. Check all that is in the fuel system, pressure and fuel condition check for spark and check if it is sucking air tru the throttle.

U need to use a smoke machine, it will be really hard with cigar method :)

Glad it helped. But this fault code seems like a PCM problem. Something is not communicating properly, either it needs to be updated by the dealer or its a bad PCM.

he he he, you said it :) :) :)

The motor it self is so good but the pump location yes atought if you take care of the antifreeze changed as the manual recommend this could help to avoid premature failure also we need to put attention to any leak

@@thechampion9525 fords are garbage, im not complaining cause i make a damn good living fixing them but their engineers are absolute morons.

@@boostbeast8731 well yea if you compare them to Honda's or Toyotas but Americans cars are reliable if you take good care of them most people drive them like maniacs I have a 2010 dodge charger they all well know to have lot of issues but I take care of the car and have zero issues

It was totally a rookie mistake. Im still a rookie but i know now how to use landscape and portrait :)

Thanks for watching!

Glad to help

Nice

Alternator can have intermittent problem when its about to go bad. What is the last thing done to the car? Did maybe battery or alternato connectors removed during the work and was not reconnected securely. Double check them and a good wiggle test connectors and cables on those 2 components. Aything loose can cause the problem. What year and model is the car by the way

Altenator. My acura did that to me last month

possibly alternator. But have ur car battery checked.

Baltimore Maryland. Whitemarsh area

Check me out at google. Dela Rosa Brothers Automotive Repairs and Service

It could be a suspension issue that u are having. Strut mounts, sway bar end links, ball joints and sometumes even tie rod ends.

@@DRBauto Tech told me that the belt is actually on the passenger side for the 8 Cylinder model. Noise was coming from water pump area. There is a small coolant leak: so it may be failing. More concerning is a much faster oil leak. Tech tried the "easy thing" (not much disassembly required) and replaced the oil filer and O-ring (did not fully fix problem).

Thanks for the info, i did managed to replace it and u are correct of the location, injured elbow is just making it hard for me to reach down :) I had this car during pandemic time and I apologize for the mask, we are required to wear them when inside the shop. But your comment will be great for others that might ran into this.

It'd be murder with that elbow. As anything/first time seemed impossible. I REALLY HAD MY DOUBTS.

@@stevepope5484 it took me, the whole day, i couldnt reach it with 1 hand, so i kept removing components to make it easier for me to replace it.

does it come out that way?

Nice work!