Відео

Hi Elemino. Thanks for the comment! In this video we are covering the issue of "no power" to the TV set. The two most common boards that can be replaced to fix this issue are the power supply board and the main board. In this video we showcase how to remove these boards and in turn how to put them back in (following the instructions in reverse). If you have any questions about the TV set or have any questions about troubleshooting issues you can ask us here or give us a call into our office at: (930) 212-1975 Have a great day!

You are very welcome!

That's a head scratcher. First, I would check to make sure the audio is set to come out of the TV and not an external source. If that is set up correctly, I would try plugging in an external sound source (stereo or bluetooth speaker) to see if there is an audio issue with both of the main boards (I would assume this is unlikely). Lastly, I would take a look at the wires going to the speakers to make sure that it is not crimped or damaged in some way.

It sounds like a t-con or a main board issue. There are a few "universal remote" apps for smart phones that work pretty well with most TV's. I'm not sure if that would be able to navigate to the display settings on your TV, but I would definitely try that first before swapping any boards.

I know that most smart TVs require you to navigate to the settings menu to do a factory reset. All of the information I found online said the same thing too. There are a few "universal remote" apps for smart phones that can act as a remote for your TV, maybe that could help?

You are the first!

Usually multiple white spots on a TV screen are an issue with the back lights. There could also be damage to the panel if the TV was dropped or jarred. You could always try to clean and reseat the ribbon cables going to and from the panel in the back of the TV. These are usually connected to the main board or the T-con board, but most likely there is an issue with the back light strips.

Unfortunately, horizontal lines are almost always an issue in the panel itself. I'm not sure if a replacement board is going to fix your issue. Sorry.

@tvpartstoday thanks for the reply. It's nearly black Friday, I might treat myself to a bargain

I would recommend doing a little research on TV model numbers before buying a black Friday TV. I have heard some companies will produce models specifically for black Friday. They are not of the best quality.

I did a little digging and it looks like the power supply in this video is a: 75037555 There are 3 different power supply boards that are compatible with this unit, so I'm not surprised that the one that you were sent looks a little different. All of the plugs and the functionality should be the same.

@@tvpartstoday Hello, Thank you for answering me I looked carefully at the old card that was in the TV and I notice that a part has been unsoldered and it is the part of the chrome center with 2 black resistors with 3 pins they are both located under the chrome plate that I am talking to you about, I am sure that if removed they would prevent the fuse from burning, because since I bought this card the fuse blows every time. Do you think this is possible??

That's probably what is going on. I would make sure the next board you put into the TV has all of the original parts on it. It sounds like someone tried to unsuccessfully fix that power supply.

If you have the model that has clips and no screws, then we have a video that will walk you through the process: ua-cam.com/video/oNqJppoV5S0/v-deo.html

I would try to connect any other HDMI device to the port to make sure it is actually the main board in your set and not the external device. I would imagine there are some steps that you can take to troubleshoot your Tivo HD, but I do not know of any myself.

I have only ever heard of the "core" in reference to a "core charge". Sometimes companies will offer this as a kind of trade in for your old part. For example, if you were buying a replacement power supply and the company offered a "core charge" you could send the company the faulty power supply out of your set and then you would receive a discount on the replacement part you were purchasing.

@@tvpartstoday interesting. so the core is the board itself. so the manufacture in this case sony wants the old board back for me to get the replacement. then they must refurbish that board and put it on sale it sounds like. been playing this out of stock cat and mouse game with the OEM distributor for a board they keep pushing the in stock date back every 2 weeks. frustrating the tech already confirmed a power supply replacement and main board replacement. not sure what direction to go with this. fortunately extended warranty covered the replacement of a new TV. But still have a 4000$ set sitting waiting for a replacement part that may never come. other that that sets in great condition. just went into a boot loop pwr restart and refused the factory reset

You could always try to replace the boards yourself, in this case you already have the new warranty replacement TV, but there are always risks to the TV when changing parts. I know that swapping out a Sony mainboard requires a firmware update. That process requires a thumb drive with a copy of the firmware from Sony's website. Sony does NOT make this easy. It is the only manufacturer, that I know of, where a manual firmware update from an external source is necessary. Also, like any firmware update, if the process is disrupted or not done correctly, you run the risk of bricking the board effectively making it useless. We do have a robust support system for applying the update at home. Our customer service reps are pretty good at walking people through the process. I would try to replace the power supply first if I was going to do a board swap on this TV. Our website has all of our return and warranty policy information and you could also look for that power supply while you are there. Good luck, and feel free to reach out here or give us a call.

Glad we could help!

The only panel replacements I could find were from www.Samsungparts.com. It looks like the panel was running just under $300 before shipping. Hope this helps! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask!

Thanks for the comment! In this video we are dealing with the issue of a TV that is only displaying an image on one side of the screen. The two most common fixes for this issue is to replace the t-con board or the main board. In this video we showcase the steps necessary to replace both the t-con board and the main board.

Glad we could help! Thanks for the feedback!

I would suggest opening the back of the TV and re-seating the ribbon cables just to see if that fixes the issue. If that does not solve the problem I would replace the main board. If your set has an "all in one" board like in the video, that would be the part to swap. If you have a few boards in the back then the main board would be your target. It appears that the t-con is integrated onto the main board. If you have any more questions once you get the back off and get a better idea of the layout, please don't hesitate to ask!

​Thanks.. I did pop it open before I commented, but didn't think to reseat the ribbon.🤦🏾‍♂️ Also, it is an all in one board and I'll definitely try reseating the ribbon first. @@tvpartstoday

Ok so just tried reseating the ribbon on both ends.. to no avail, the issue persists.

well, shoot. I would try replacing the "all in one" main board if you were going to try a board swap. There should be a little white sticker on the board with a part number starting in "BN96-xxxxxx", that would be the part to order.

following these steps can help in some situations. I would start here and if you are still having issues, I would assume it is a bad main board.

Nice job on that first TV! I always feel good after a successful repair! As for your second television, I know that screens are hard to come by, especially on smaller TVs, but a smaller set would be perfect to get a handle on the process of removing a screen. The larger the TV the more unwieldy the screen and diffuser panels are after you take them out.

The Sony firmware update has to be done via a USB thumb drive with the correct firmware on it. If you would need help figuring out which firmware to download and how to install it on your TV, give us a call at: (930) 212-1975

There is, but it involves going in through the front of the TV. You would need to remove the screen and diffuser panels without damaging them and then you would have access to the front of the chassis assembly where the back lights are mounted.

I found the panel number: 1-009-555-11 After some digging I found that this panel is discontinued. This was attached to the listing as well: LIQUID CRYSTAL ELEMENT(C75D02)

There could be an issue with the LED driver board, power supply, or the backlights themselves. If your TV doesn't have a dedicated LED driver, it will be integrated onto the power supply board.

OLED TVs can be a little tricky when trying to figure out what part is causing the problem. I would assume there is an issue with the t-con, the main board, or there could be an issue with the panel itself. If you were going to try a board swap, I would start with the main board and then try the t-con.

It sounds like a problem with the HDMI ports themselves so I would assume the main board as well.

It also has the same problem with I plug something into component jacks. Do you have any suggestions, I'm not sure if this tv is worth fixing? Thanks in advance

It sounds like the main board is causing the problems here. EBR66043801 is the part number for the only main board I could find for this unit. We are currently out of stock, but if you can find a replacement main board it will be cheaper than buying a new TV.

I would recommend starting with the main board if you are going to try a board swap. If that doesn't fix the issue I would try swapping out the power supply.

These Sony TVs can be tricky with the "blink codes". I would give our office a call and talk with one of our customer service reps. (930) 212-1975

I would recommend starting with the power supply board.

If the unit is getting power and not power cycling, then I would assume that there is an issue with the main board. I would suggest trying a factory reset, but I'm almost 100% certain that you need to be able to navigate the settings menu to achieve this. You could also try unplugging the TV, holding the power button down for at least 30 seconds and then trying to boot the television again. I don't think this will fix the issue, but it might allow you enough time to get into the settings and try a factory reset.

No problem! I'm glad it helped!

As far as I know, after the TV is out of warranty, the customer is responsible for any repairs. There is always the option of trying to diagnose the issue yourself and swap the necessary boards out.

There could be another issue with your TV set. Is the unit keeping power or is the entire TV turning off?

I would assume it is the power supply. I do know that issues with the power supply board can give these symptoms, but there could be an issue with the backlights themselves.

@@tvpartstoday Thanks. There was some flickering in the center of the screen off and on for a few months but the picture was perfect. Tempted to try a PS board or try to sell it as is since it is in perfect physical condition otherwise. Any interest in buying it cheap for parts please let me know. Cheers!

Thanks for supporting the channel! We appreciate it!

If you were going to try and swap boards to fix this issue, I would suggest starting with the power supply board. There could be an issue with the panel or screen, but If there is no obvious damage I would start with a board swap.

In our videos we try to focus on the boards in the back of the unit. We do have a host of videos with back removal and some dedicated to the process. If you need any help getting the back of your specific TV, please let us know and we will be happy to help. We do try and avoid getting into the process of panel removal and LED backlights as we do not carry or sell any panel components excluding select back-lights.

Unfortunately we do not sell panel components outside of back-lights. I'm not sure where you can find a replacement display for a TV that new either.

Judging by the layout, I would assume that the t-con is integrated onto the main board.

We focus on back removal and board swaps on this channel. We may make a series on panel removal and back-lights in the future.

If your were going to do a board swap, I would recommend the t-con board. If that doesn't fix the issue, then I would assume there is a problem with the address board (very thin board or boards at the bottom of the chassis that connect with ribbon cables to the panel).

I would assume it is a t-con issue at first glance. I would try to open the back of the unit and reseat all the ribbon cable connections coming from the panel and the main board. If your unit does not have a dedicated t-con board (im pretty sure it does) then the t-con will be integrated onto the main board.

@@tvpartstoday my conclusion as well , you know your way around these things . AS do i . I suspect a T con because it has dedicated controls for left and right , double control chips , and they have separate power supply since its OLED , per pixel control . Now Really experienced man , would be able to take a scope and measure the output from the T con on a white screen where everything should be same frequency and if the signal from the board is NOT the same from 4 ribbons that means its a T con . But then again , if Gates on the panel have an issue maybe that would reflect back to T con output . If a load is different there will be difrent power output . Or maybe not . Im thinking in power circuits terms , in imaginary PSU , Switcher one like in PC , if say GPU line is having problems , measuring on the GPU , one can check that phase output but same thing would happen there , because it comes from there , and then its hard to know is the GPU oscillating the load , or the PSU is oscillating making a GPU power line oscillate . Things are complex , But for the starts get some Tuner contact cleaner , disconnect the ribbons , clean them reconnect , see what happens . But if that doesnt do the trick , we still dont know , and it gets harder from there . I dont know would it be best to take it to service , not to mess around my self . I have a scope but only 1Mghz , i dont know the type of signals i would be hunting down , never did it . The guys in the shop do it all the day . Maybe best let them do the testing . But its a beast of a TV , even a stand only is heavy . I have 65inch IPS model as well , not this heavy , not even close . One would expect from OLED as it is thin to be lighter , but its not , its heavier . Probably due to use of metal . Other one is plastic .

We have international shipping options on our website at checkout. I would look at those options to see if we can ship to your location.

Is it 7% state tax only If any other other hidden charges are there.

We do collect any taxes required here in the US. Any other charges would be international shipping charges and any import duties required in the country we are shipping to.

If you were going to try a board swap I would suggest trying the main board first. I'm curious about the fact that it takes about 10 minutes to start the static and eventually the sound quits. It makes me think there could be an issue with the speakers themselves or even the power supply.

Thanks for the comment, robertsmeagles. The issue we are covering in this video is "Your TV only displays half the picture on one side". The most common parts to swap to correct this issue are the t-con board and then the main board.

Swapping the main board would be my first suggestion.

@@tvpartstoday Thank You

Changing out the LED strips is a lot more involved than just swapping out a board. The front panel, as well as the diffuser panels, will need to be removed before you can access the LED strips. There are usually a few components that hold the bezel surrounding the chassis in place. The bezel usually has a few screws on the bottom of the TV. The housing for the stand legs could also be holding the bezel in place, as well as the buffer board at the bottom of the chassis in the back. When you are trying to get the panels out of the front of the TV you will need to be especially careful not to bend, scratch, or break the panels so that there is a clear picture when you out them back into the TV. There is a tool we found online that looks like a suction cup used to keep the panel in shape when you are taking it out of the TV. After you get to the LED strips there can be some adhesive keeping each strip in place. Its just a matter of loosening the adhesive and unclipping the LED strip from their connections. Some TV sets don't use this adhesive and there will be small guide holes in the strips themselves that keep them attached to the chassis.