Відео

I wasn't pretending to achieve what the testing laboratories are designed to do. And the fact is that Titan's rating exceeds Duration's rating on wind and hail resistance. Hard to dispute! I simply had put my hands on both shingles to get the feelings. My senses made me feel okay about Tamko Titan. After that test I didn't deviate from Owen's Corning as my preferred product. But last year after several major storms when OC cannot supply our market with enough product I have to consider other brands. I heard good feedbacks from those who use Titan. All shingles manufacturers had the budget products. I previously had my disappointment with Tamko Heritage. But on April 2nd, 2024 Tornado blow off a roof along with a roof deck and frame from a house in couple hundred feet away from a house that I installed Tamko Heritage 6 years ago. The homeowner called me to check the roof. Though I found damaged shingles, I was pleasantly surprised how tight this roof is. And this is not even Titan, just Heritage. This event resurrected my faith in Tamko. This brand is older than Owen's Corning and I feel comfortable to offer Titan as an upgrade option to my customers. Last couple notes: 1. nailing zone on Titan is wider than on Duration. This is very important for the roof decks made out of solid 1x8 wood planking, which we have a lot in Kentucky. This is another advantage of Titan. 2. As a roofer I personally installed a lot of Duration shingles. I loved the SURENAIL strip for its durability, but I hate to cut it. After few shingles the blade become dull and it reaping the strip so badly. Not happening on Titan. When I installed it I used to keep a bundle of the blades, but my Spanish speaking fellas normally didn't. The same with the nailing zone - what can be easier than to see where to place a nail on the DURATION shingles?! If you have supervisor on a job and quality control you know that without control the nails are not placed in a nailing zone. So extra inch on Titan shingles makes a difference. I hope my feedbacks will help to both the homeowners and the contractors.

This video is an example of deep grooves. If you have steeper than this, you can build a little saddle around. Can be done with metal, spray foam or TPO. It is a bit complicated to explain but there is a way to fix it

You are wrong though. The shingle tabs are designed to seal to the roof. If something has permanently broken the seal, the shingle is no longer performing as intended and could cause a leak.

@@eag8999 Many years ago shingles were only nailed to the roof. They didn't add a seal strip until there were concerns about addressing wind-resistance. The adhesion of the shingle has nothing to do with water shedding. Shingles naturally debond at the corners over time because of thermal movement. Shingles are not "wind-damaged" until they have become creased or torn. Incompetent (or deceitful) roofers looking to cash in simply lift up naturally-occurring non-bonded corners and claim wind damage. It's as simple as that.

@@HKmaroLS1 Nobody cares about many years ago products. Those shingles were far heavier and did not need seals to keep them down. These fiberglass mat asphalt shingles absolutely need the seals and are designed with them as a utility. Having nail heads exposed to rain and snow is a quick way to develop leaks. The seals are a required function of the shingles. Your argument fails on its merits.

@@HKmaroLS1 And I’m not stating zippering is necessarily wind damage. But unsealed tabs can be.

@@eag8999 The only way an "unsealed" tab is wind damaged is if winds were strong enough to break that bond, and subsequently crease or tear the shingle back. The presence of an unsealed shingle alone (with no creases or tears) is not an indication of wind damage.

Certainteed is now trash. I have a ton of them that I did about 3 years ago and they already look terrible. Pursued manufacturer warranty and all they do is offer to clean it one time. They don’t even have local reps.

Have you ever installed Malarkey shingles?

I'm kinda curious myself. I've done HVAC for 8 years and don't know.

Sorry just now saw notification of your comment

Could be different. It is possible to fix the pop-nails and blisters. This could be cosmetical repair without changing any shingles. Not many roofers willing to do it, they rather push you to a full replacement. Just find a roofer who willing to fix it.

@@Go_Roof_It_Right thank you so much

Thank you very much

I am impressed all videos... It really explain very clearly with all details ... Thanks you and Gumar. From CA

I am not familiar with the Florida roofing market. Neither we install it here; the main brand that we use in KY is Owens Corning. I am comfortable recommending Duration and Duration Flex.

Florida code calls for 6 nails so the Tamko XT would be a decent choice... as long as the guys nail it correctly.

I normally buy through my local supplier, which is Beacon Roofing supplies but I know you can buy straight from their website as well s-5.com

Thank you, I am glad it helps

Yes it is PVC 50 mil. It was pretty easy to install. That was our first try, we do use tpo and pvc clad metal as well, it really looks good and last.

Good point, thank you, we'll do on a next test

If it is not large area of roofing, i would rather to re-roof it with single ply, TPO or PVC. It will be more reliable flashing. In my state torch down is not allowed after one roofing company burned up a pretty big building. Modified bitumen membrane with cold application is an option, just make sure the adhesive is compatible with existing membrane and the one you will use for flashing. Each manufacturer has specific product for such task. I think it is easy to find video or pdf for each product depending what available. Another option is a liquid flashing with a mesh for reinforcement

If you don't have any trees around it probably be okay to follow such instruction, though if any debris can be accumulated in these gaps and gutters, as a roofer I have to recommend to keep it tight. If you decide to keep that gap, as soon as it will be blocked in some place of these channels, water is still going into these channels but the blockage won't let it flash down. If you just cut a lower shingle under slight angle to prevent a shingle sealant to block it on bottom, the gutter will do the job. Though those channels are high enough there is no reason to even worry about such cut. It is an opinion, that dictated by customer service. It is not profitable for me to come back to fix the leaks. And when it leaks l never fight with skylight manufacturers. I don't have time for that.

@@Go_Roof_It_Right - the ultimate comeback, well said

Thank you!

😊😊😊😊😊

Glad it was helpful!