Rosella Chen
Rosella Chen
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Making a *cool* Cheongsam | Cutting guide, traditional techniques with a clean and modern design
You guys have been asking for a more cheongsam content and here it is (finally, I know). I don't make lots of cheongsams because I don't really wear them that much. They are too "high-maintenance" and I feel the need to do hair and make-up to wear them so I decided to use the traditional cuts and techniques to make a more laid-back-whatever-roll-out-of-bed-throw-it-on-and-go-out style cheongsam for myself. I am so bad at explaining math so I made a pdf for those of you who want to make the cheongsam for yourself with your measurements.
Cutting guide:
drive.google.com/file/d/1xeeSgW0E8FbfkRgIX1gBeApGu4dKM0vE/view?usp=sharing
Video on how to make the knots:
ua-cam.com/video/dtmjKYw4Aqs/v-deo.html
Переглядів: 9 156

Відео

Making an 18th Century Inspired Dress | FREE Sewing Pattern
Переглядів 8762 роки тому
I have always wanted something 18th century inspired dresses, especially after seeing the amazing work created by sewing rock stars like Bernadette Banner and Sewstine. So here is my take on the popular piece. You can download my bodice pattern for free here: drive.google.com/file/d/1G7v2odFrw2-nyqgGvlzHZRVmiHWZGTLC/view?usp=sharing
Titania Inspired Dress | Bundle dye, sewing with knit jersey, lots of fun, many mistakes
Переглядів 2232 роки тому
A Midsummer Night's Dream is one of my favourite play. I love the romantic atmosphere created in the story and I have been itching to make my own version of Titania. In this project I explored bundle dyeing with natural colorants and sewing with knit jersey - a material I was unfamiliar with. It is not a perfect project but I certainly had a lot of fun doing it and I have learnt so much from th...
Making a Regency Bib-front Dress | FREE Sewing Pattern
Переглядів 7 тис.2 роки тому
Life is hectic. Time for some quick and easy sewing projects to help you relax. Grab some fabric, make some tea and let's do this. My self-drafted pattern: drive.google.com/file/d/1aepGwLgMMFU5yxLb9nFU6KhJWY114CB5/view?usp=sharing drive.google.com/file/d/1OOaKw1ISK3C_-B3YUFoymJpqt2QJC-nT/view?usp=sharing
Becoming Benedict - Making an Outfit Inspired by Much Ado About Nothing | Part 2 : The Trousers
Переглядів 1133 роки тому
The second part of the Benedict outfit from Globe Production's Much Ado About Nothing. Because I really don't think the original styles of the trousers would do me (mostly my butt) any good, I basically made a pair of modern trousers with some twists to mimic the ~Benedict Vibe~. But if you are interested about what real trunkhose would be like and how they are constructed, I highly recommend t...
Becoming Benedict - Making an Outfit Inspired by Much Ado About Nothing | Part 1: The Shirt
Переглядів 1393 роки тому
A beautiful copy of Much Ado About Nothing has been on my book shelf for ages. I never read it because after reading A Midsummer Night's Dream I thought to myself, "This is the peak of romantic comedy. I don't think anything can surpass this." Needless to say I was wrong. So so so wrong. After reading the book I binged through all the versions out there (movie, play). All of them are brilliant,...
Making a Summer Wedding Dress Part 2 | Dressmaking VLOG
Переглядів 1273 роки тому
Second part of the making process of a 1950s inspired wedding dress I created for my friend Wendy. It was a stressful but fun process, I learned a lot from making the dress and helping with the wedding. Hope you like it!
Making a Summer Wedding Dress Part 1 | Dressmaking VLOG
Переглядів 1273 роки тому
My friend Wendy had a summer wedding in June and I made her wedding dress. It was a 1950's inspired tea-length dress, heavily pleated with cotton chiffon. This dress took more than 80 hours to make, and I think it was one of the best dresses I have ever created for someone else. Making a dress 12 days before wedding was definitely a stupid move tho, so please enjoy the video and don't be like me.
Making the Dornish Dress from GoT Part 2 | Costume Inspired Wardrobe
Переглядів 1,9 тис.3 роки тому
After few failed attempts, lots of research and practicing, this dress finally happened! The making process was both fun and challenging, and I am very satisfied with the outcome.
Making the Dornish Dress from GoT Part 1 | Costume Inspired Wardrobe
Переглядів 2 тис.3 роки тому
The Dornish Dresses from Game of Thrones have always been my dream dresses. In my opinion they are some of the most stunning costumes in the entire GoT series! For this project I mainly chose elements like color and embroidery style etc. from Tyene Sand's and Myrcella Baratheon's yellow dresses pink embroidered top combos. Music: Yonder Hill and Dale by Aaron Kenny from UA-cam Audio Library
Making a Regency Inspired Winter dress | 2020 Winter Makes
Переглядів 2194 роки тому
A new regency inspired tartan dress for winter 2020. Materials: 100% Cotton tartan 100% Cotton satin Fusable inter-facing Inpiration: www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82126?rpp=20&pg=1&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&where=United+Kingdom&what=Dresses|Silk&img=2&imgno=5&tabname=related-objects
Making a 50s Inspired Winter Outfit | 2020 Winter Makes
Переглядів 1454 роки тому
I make every garment in mywardrobe. As interesting and enjoyable as it is, it also means that I need to hurry up and make everything I need before the winter comes. This is the first outfit I made for this winter and I just loved this so much. Hope the making-of will be enjoyable for you as well. Happy sewing, everyone!
Making a Cheongsam ft. My Roommate | Authentic construction techniques, history and more
Переглядів 25 тис.4 роки тому
A cheongsam might not be what you think it is. Simply slapping a mandarin collar onto a fitted dress makes a great Chinese-inspired dress but no, it is not a proper cheongsam. Waist darts, set-in sleeves, zippers on center back... All these are big no-nos in authentic cheongsam making. Here is how to make a cheongsam properly, using traditional techniques, including flat cutting method and spec...
Making an Enchanted inspired dress | Costume Inspired Wardrobe
Переглядів 3,2 тис.4 роки тому
A more laid-back, no-corset (and pink! ) version of Gisele's blue curtain dress from disney movie Enchanted. This is a special project because I am using materials my friends gave me for my birthday. Huge thanks to April, Ed and Ariel for making my childhood dream come true. Y'all are the best friends a girl could ever ask for.
Making a Pink Textured Strapless Gown | VLOG-ish Creative / Commission Project for a friend
Переглядів 1124 роки тому
A lovely pink textured dress for my dear friend April. This dress has been the MAJOR thing for me during July 2020 as it is entirely covered in hand-stitched pleatings and sequins, therefore being very labour-intensive. It is inspired by some gorgeous cakes I saw on Pinterest, links down below. Pleatings were used to mimic the "brush stroke" texture on the cakes and gold sequins are added for a...
Making a Peaky Blinders Inspired Coat | Costume Inspired Wardrobe
Переглядів 1,4 тис.4 роки тому
Making a Peaky Blinders Inspired Coat | Costume Inspired Wardrobe
Basic Bodice Pattern Drafting | Pattern Basics
Переглядів 2754 роки тому
Basic Bodice Pattern Drafting | Pattern Basics
Patternmaking and Sewing a Bias Dress | Agatha Christie's Poirot Costume Inspired
Переглядів 3814 роки тому
Patternmaking and Sewing a Bias Dress | Agatha Christie's Poirot Costume Inspired

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @sandimcp
    @sandimcp Місяць тому

    This is a terrific video. So well explained. I love the look and style of Cheongsam dress. Thank you so much.

  • @amsylife
    @amsylife Місяць тому

    i loved the front button-up shirt analogy. i totally imagined a front button-up shirt with fake front buttons and a ridiculous back zipper. Totally drives your point home. 😂😅

  • @Venessa03-m2c
    @Venessa03-m2c Місяць тому

    Well how did you make the buttoms

  • @Venessa03-m2c
    @Venessa03-m2c Місяць тому

    Did it fit too tight around the armhole?

  • @lphoebe3634
    @lphoebe3634 3 місяці тому

    I love how enthusiastic you are about this. I am super new to sewing but my goal is to one day make my own cheongsam, bookmarking to come back to this video lol

  • @Karmadelica
    @Karmadelica 3 місяці тому

    Thank you so much for this video, it's very informative! I love vintage cheongsam, they're so beautiful.

  • @Eri14996
    @Eri14996 3 місяці тому

    I'm latina, 100% panamanian, with not even a drop of blood of Chinese in my body and I'm here planning of making myself a traditional Cheongsam after watching a TikTok

  • @beth12svist
    @beth12svist 3 місяці тому

    I really appreciate the explanation of the more traditional style - I know very little about Chinese culture, have so far I think only or mainly come across the more more modern cut, and it's left me puzzled because it's pretty obvious how modern it is. The more traditional cut definitely makes more sense.

  • @thebanditking8502
    @thebanditking8502 4 місяці тому

    thank you for the pattern!!

  • @ovhvooreen3735
    @ovhvooreen3735 5 місяців тому

    Great. THank you very much. loved to have learned the starch glueing of material. I have a container handy in my desk and use it for paper glueing and patternpieces in need of adding or cutting and sticking, You tought me something new. Very inspiring!

  • @mvrooks
    @mvrooks 6 місяців тому

    that ruffly/ruched detail on the bib front is very pretty!💙

  • @simplieshine
    @simplieshine 7 місяців тому

    Thank you so much!

  • @rewindrecolour65
    @rewindrecolour65 7 місяців тому

    thank you for this incredible tutorial & explanation! even as a chinese person I learned sooo much

  • @damadivina1215
    @damadivina1215 8 місяців тому

    I don’t suppose you’d be able to show a graphic of sorts on how you put this together would you? lol I’m in love with this dress

  • @sensationaleve5994
    @sensationaleve5994 8 місяців тому

    I love how you’re obsessed with it being perfect and maintaining culture 😂😂😂😂 I love it

  • @sensationaleve5994
    @sensationaleve5994 8 місяців тому

    Goo job

  • @debbie7116
    @debbie7116 8 місяців тому

    The diagonal lines in the front, and the point in the back of the bodice are really flattering, and the fit is perfect - no wrinkles even without boning!

  • @huesoo9827
    @huesoo9827 9 місяців тому

    Fascinating . Really enjoyed all the historical explanations as well as the process on making it. Although it appears your friend’s cs was slightly different in construction at the side opening than yours.

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 9 місяців тому

      Glad you enjoyed it! My friend had all the perimeters different from mine - darts, edging details, closing method etc. Plus, we have very different body shapes! Because traditional cheongsam is supposed to take shape of your body, we end up with very different styles or looks despite having the same making process!

  • @EpopeeYoustyle
    @EpopeeYoustyle 10 місяців тому

    Such a good job 😮

  • @mychannel27
    @mychannel27 11 місяців тому

    Thank you! I will make for myself. ❤

  • @kawaiajackson9037
    @kawaiajackson9037 11 місяців тому

    What a wonderful video. Very well put together and you covered many of my questions. Wado, thank you!

  • @GunillaWigström
    @GunillaWigström 11 місяців тому

    Much better than the original.

  • @TeeBoyd88
    @TeeBoyd88 Рік тому

    I can see this as an all white wedding dress with minimal embellishments. I would wear it too.

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 9 місяців тому

      I love your idea! Would be a brilliant design❤️

  • @zuraidaaeschbacher4136
    @zuraidaaeschbacher4136 Рік тому

    Omg

  • @mehressagreen4615
    @mehressagreen4615 Рік тому

    I would happily pay for a longer tutorial or a pattern <3

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 Рік тому

      Hello! When I made the dress, I didn't even have a pattern, because it was literally just 4 identical rectangles pieced together and pleated at the waist. You could try to sew 4 rectangles together at the waist first, and slowly adjust the neckline and the waist, since fabric width may vary.

    • @mehressagreen4615
      @mehressagreen4615 Рік тому

      @@rosellachen8001 thank you for the reply! Yes, just super novice hehe, it sounds like I will patiently followyour advice and mock up mock up mock up. :) Thank you again!

  • @gplaydee
    @gplaydee Рік тому

    If I could superlike this video, I would. ❤❤

  • @SuperModerngranny
    @SuperModerngranny Рік тому

    Is there a rule with regards to which side should the front opening be? I read somewhere that it's not proper to have it on the left side. Is that true and why?

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 Рік тому

      I've heard the same, too. I'm not very sure of the exact reason, as I've never done any serious research into it, and there is so little written documents about Chinese historical clothing. But one version of the reason I've heard is that, left-opening garments are usually worn by the deceased at funerals, so the living should not wear them, to avoid bad luck or ghosts. I don't know how true the reason is, but yes, most cheongsams open on the right side!

    • @SuperModerngranny
      @SuperModerngranny Рік тому

      @@rosellachen8001 thank you!

  • @willabandler9280
    @willabandler9280 Рік тому

    I don’t know if you’ll even see comments on a video that’s a couple of years old, but this is amazing! It’s the only thing I’ve found that both shows the actual Chinese tailoring methods and also actually explains it so I can understand. Thank you! I’m a non-Chinese person making a cheongsam for my half-Chinese daughter and I want to actually make it right, since culture isn’t a costume. I replied to your reply to another comment below about the bust dart situation and how to end up with the back and front having matching side seam length, but I realize I have some other questions too. Like, is it open all the way down and just held with buttons (and how many buttons-one thing I read suggested it should use 5 buttons total but that doesn’t seem like enough for the whole collar/chest/side!), or is the skirt sewn shut from the hips down? Should it always open down the right, or do some open down the left? Would you ever use a zipper along the side closure instead of buttons to make it more secure? Or maybe use a zipper hidden with buttons over it? If you do see this, any info on any of these things would be so appreciated.

    • @willabandler9280
      @willabandler9280 Рік тому

      …well, your more recent video answered the zipper q anyway!

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 Рік тому

      Thank you for your kind words, I'm so happy my pattern was useful to you! Opening and buttons: All the methods you have mentiones are acceptable! It really depends on the wearer, I like completely opened cheongsams, because I enjoy the buttoning when I'm putting them on. But some of my friends like the skirt sewn together, because they are very paranoid about the delicate buttons holding the skirt together, especially on cheongsams with tighter cuts. They are afraid that they're gonna pop open LOL. If you decide to sew the skirt shut, I recommend placing some tacking at the end of the opening, since that part could suffer from a lot of pulling, adding reinforcement protects the fabric. The numbers of buttons aren't fixed, but please consider the placement when you're making them. They shouldn't be too close or too far away from each other. I usually put them 10-13cm apart. Also, don't put them all the way down! You need to have two side vents / openings otherwise the wearer can't move. Hope this helps!

  • @elizabethkirkeide2458
    @elizabethkirkeide2458 Рік тому

    Thank you for your generosity. Thank you for the pdf of the pattern you rock!

  • @user-wm1oo4os7e
    @user-wm1oo4os7e Рік тому

    Now……. I know you said no zippers, but how about a cheongsam with a diagonal zipper instead of buttons? Food for thought 🤔😂

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 Рік тому

      This... This might be acceptable. Hahahaha🤣 Thanks for the laugh.

  • @user-wm1oo4os7e
    @user-wm1oo4os7e Рік тому

    Thank you so much for these videos! May I ask if there are any rules about how the buttons go? Should the buttons be on the top or the bottom piece? And do all cheongams open on the left side?

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 Рік тому

      Thanks for liking! I'm not sure if there is a rule about the buttons, but I've always placed my buttons on the top and loops on the bottom, this seems more common. For the second question, most Cheongsams open on the wearer's right side. Hope this helps!

  • @user-wm1oo4os7e
    @user-wm1oo4os7e Рік тому

    Fantastic!!! I'm planning to crochet a cheongsam and I wanted to make one with working buttons, but for the life of me I could not find any images or explanations of how authentic ones were constructed or how they opened. Thanks for this and the little history lesson as well! Really interesting! Can I ask where you learned this info?

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 Рік тому

      I learned mostly from looking at the museum pieces in China and reading Chinese books on them. There are some silk museums here in China, the best one in Hangzhou. They display a lot of cheongsams from 1920s to 19402.

  • @4614Maria
    @4614Maria Рік тому

    Grazie! È il primo video che trovo con la traduzione 👌 Adoro questo modello, vorrei cucire una blusa, anche se non capisco tutto perché principiante!

  • @gplaydee
    @gplaydee Рік тому

    I can't explain how wonderful this video is and I'm so excited that you've provided a free pattern!!! I hope that you're doing well :)

  • @voidis
    @voidis Рік тому

    this is lovely! congratulations this is a wonderful creation <3

  • @MScott-oi2uu
    @MScott-oi2uu Рік тому

    Beautiful garment and wonderful explanation!!! It would be great if you could consider making a Tai Chi Robe (I don't know if it is the right term, for those midi length robes with two side slits worn in Kung fu training)

  • @wumi691827
    @wumi691827 Рік тому

    maybe there is a layer of normal-fit cap sleeve under the gathers. I don't think using the elastic band in the shoulder strap area can get a good fit like this.

  • @StudiousPiglet
    @StudiousPiglet Рік тому

    This was so interesting ! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge about cheongsam, I loved seeing the more traditional version drafted directed on the fabric ! And thanks so much for sharing your drafting info in the pdf. 😮 so generous !!!

  • @pavlinaandren1408
    @pavlinaandren1408 Рік тому

    Thank you so much for this adorable dress pattern, Ive been looking for something like this since seeing Mansfield park (Fannys sister wears several dresses that look very similar). I have a question, how much (approx) fabric do you use for this dress? Thanks again❤

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 9 місяців тому

      Sorry for the late reply. For this dress, I needed about 2.5 meters of fabric with 1.5m width. Hope your project went well!

  • @daisydaffsforever723
    @daisydaffsforever723 Рік тому

    Thank you Rosella, you explained this very well. I have always wanted to wear one and then make one. I am 60 now and thinking of giving it a go with a cotton or cotton lawn fabric. I like your version and yes its looks so relaxed in design and fit

  • @conniemacleodmusic
    @conniemacleodmusic Рік тому

    The gown is lovely Rosella! Thank you so much for the video and the pattern...I'm looking forward to trying this! :>}

  • @nataliegonsalves205
    @nataliegonsalves205 Рік тому

    For anyone who doesn't know how to print the pattern or had trouble, here is how I did it: 1. Use Morgan Donner's MS Paint method to change the size: Convert the PDF to an image and open it in MS Paint. Under File > Properties, note down the length and width of the image and use a percent calculator to determine by what percent it needs to be bigger/smaller. Then go back into MS Paint and press the "Resize tab" and input the percentages in the horizontal and vertical slots. Its better covered in Morgan Donner's "Scaling up a Pattern to Life-Size" video 2. Once resized, convert it back into a PDF and go to File > Print. 3. Under the "Page Sizing and Handling" tab, choose "Poster" and check the "Cut Marks" option. Then, change the overlap inches to 0. 4. Print, and atleast for me, it was perfectly to scale.

    • @tonjesolheim8146
      @tonjesolheim8146 Рік тому

      Smart.... but is there stated anywhere what the measurements for this pattern is originally?

  • @jeseniarobles1306
    @jeseniarobles1306 Рік тому

    Que bueno que hablaras español

    • @Eri14996
      @Eri14996 3 місяці тому

      Te puedo ayudar a traducir, hablo ambos idiomas

  • @synesthesiameme
    @synesthesiameme Рік тому

    Thank god for your diagram! My son brought me a present from his first schooltrip abroad (ever) 4 meters of beautiful batik for a dress. But I mostly knit stuff? And being kind of obsessed with minimum cut designs I settled on a cheongsam... long story short, yours is the only cheongsam diagram not in chinese (without darts!) I have found. so thankyou thankyou thankyou. I have made two mockups (one with breast darts and one without) only problem is that I get a lot of folds in the upper chest/armpit area (the area between J and K) and, not being a tailor, I dont know how to deal with this. is it the shoulderlength, armroot or upperchestwith?

    • @rosellachen8001
      @rosellachen8001 Рік тому

      Hello, cuddlefish! I haven't seen the mockups so my opinion might not be entirely correct, but it sounds like the armroot(or armscye) is a bit large. However, the armpit folds are completely normal even when the cheongsam is drafted and fitted perfectly, because the cheongsam is T-shaped, without the slope on the sleeve block like on many modern garments, so there will be excess fabrics under the arm, but the plus side of it is that it actually allows more movements to your arms because the folds could unfold when you raise your arms. Usually I use soft and thin materials to make dart-less cheongsams so the folds wouldn't be very bulky and they wouldn't bother me. However, if the fabric you use is rather thick and the folds become bulky and uncomfortable, I would recommend either drafting the sleeves with a slope, adding a dart or a seam on the sleeve, therefore changing the T shape of the cheongsam to kind of an arrow shape (hope this makes sense, difficult to explain without a picture) or choosing pattern with a seperate sleeve block entirely. Drafting the sleeves and armpit area as fitted as possible would also help because folds are essentially excess fabric. Hope this helps :)

    • @synesthesiameme
      @synesthesiameme Рік тому

      @@rosellachen8001 Thank you for the very detailed answer. My cheongsam journey has taken me to the same conclutions, namely that the armfolds are an intrinsic part of the pattern. My first pattern featured short sleeves, and when i elongated the sleeves to 3/4 length and shortened the upper-body part, it fitted my body waay better. A more graduated underarm slope and looser armscye kind of moved the folds towards the shoulder. The folds are actually okay, because i have a shoulder handicap that demands excessive fabric, and the folds somewhat disguise this. My mockups were made in old bedsheets so they are more stiff that the final fabric (the sheets was destined for the cleaning rag bin anyway). 😄 ill be cutting a final (possibly wearable) mock soon.

  • @blufaerie
    @blufaerie Рік тому

    I loved this informative video. I also love the casual cheongsam you made.😊

  • @yubyub335
    @yubyub335 Рік тому

    I loved the dedication to make this dress 💗, but i have to admit from all the GOT dresses, the dornish where my less favorite of the bunch (not that the rest where better tho) i mostly liked Cercei's dresses from the first seasons along side Sansa's. I was never much of a fan of the bikini top dresses or some dresses like the ones the ladies in waiting at the court in the red keep wore along side from those used by Margery Tyrells, but i guess its because of the cleavage opening some had (i have never been a fan of showing skin so).

  • @KatanaPrincess
    @KatanaPrincess Рік тому

    Can you please do a tutorial for Chenyi 衬衣

  • @dustedpinstripes
    @dustedpinstripes Рік тому

    I really really appreciate this, super helpful thank you so much!!

  • @beckmannm
    @beckmannm Рік тому

    How much yardage did you end up needing?

  • @LadyMorganLavon
    @LadyMorganLavon 2 роки тому

    This is very similar to a dress I’m about to wear for a couple events doing historical interpretation and the dress is very old probably from the 1980s I’ve been doing some minor darning to fix some of the stitches are so old they are just snapping I’m hoping they will make it through the couple events and maybe I can work on it some more. The bib on the one I’m wearing is pin tucked design and it’s a heavy cotton and has a corduroy trim on the double hemmed bottom.