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How much is Plaster a square yard. Cost

Excellent work!!!

I have a question about the diamond plaster finish wall damage from water leak. It's hard to find good information about this. We had the walls done with the whole metal base mesh, coating, etc., and a few months later we had a water leak that was hard to fix and as a result we ended up with a stained diamond plaster in that area. Our contractor said to paint over it, but then you will see the difference between the beautiful, satin finish diamond plaster, and the paint. Can the veneer coat be applied on top of the diamond plaster? The plaster has not bubbled or flaked or cracked, it's just badly stained.

That’s the most secure ladder I ever seen The pitch on it was like stairs 😂😂😂 how did you do that

Hate usa houses. Nothing but headaches

I found that I could make new lathe by ripping a 2x4 on a table saw to about 3/8" width. HOWEVER, lathe is normally rough sawn so it has a really rough face (splinterville!) and ripped 2x4 is very smooth, you can take a rasp to rough it up if you really want to. I don't know if it makes that much difference since you are relying on the keys to keep the plaster on, and PVA bonder brushed onto the lathe is a good idea too. The 2x4 I think were spruce or pine. Whatever they sell at Home Depot.

"promo sm"

Hey there, for your basecoat did you just use drywall compound? Then diamond veneer with water for top coat? Thanks!

first time?

Thanks for the new video! Quite a transformation.

OMG these old homes are a labor of love. Thanks for this very helpful info!

We were very fortunate that there was not much painted wood in our restoration. We really would like to buy one of those just because it would be a new tool. =)

advice on what respirator to use?

No the right way to do this kind of jobs ; sorry but is true

Glad you are back and look forward to more videos!

Excellent, thanks

I'm in Norfolk, VA and working on the walls upstairs in my 1921 Craftsman home; I couldn't find anybody that stocks basecoat except for Ace Hardware. I was able to order Structo-Lite and have it shipped to the store, they were also the only folks who had Durabond on the shelf and the only ones who could get me Imperial veneer with no MOQ.

Thank you for this vid. Checking the pricing of spring bronze weatherstripping was very expensive. Why did you choose to replace that old bronze type as opposed to using a more modern door stop type weatherstripping? I have old bronze weatherstripping and someone told me that’s the old way of weatherstripping a door. New way would be to use door stop weather stripping. Is it really homeowner’s choice or should you replace old bronze with new bronze? I’m confused as to which one to use. Can someone please help?

Not all of the trowles and hawks are intended for plastering. Brick pointers for example have no need for a large hawk holding lots of mortar. As for applying plaster on wood lath, or wire lath. Best to apply a coat just to fill the spaces and then move on to other areas. Then after the mortar tightens up apply a second coat. On wire lath its best to let the first coat harden since the lath itself is flexible. I started working at plastering in the early 50s. At that time, wood lath hadnt been being used for approximately 20 years. A gypsum product called (rocklath ) which is similar to sheetrock was being used and still is when the old 2 coat system is being used. That being a brown coat with a gypsum based product, followed up after drying with a lime based white coat trowled to a smooth finish. Today however large sheets of drywall with a different covering and called ( blue board ) is applied and then covered with a single finish coat much like the old white coat was. The very large trowles with the rounded corners are not actually plastering trowles, although some are using them for that purpose. They were originally known as pool finishing trowles. There are also long trowles with conventional square corners intended for concrete finishing. I used to have one that i used as a darby for working in closets. But i never used it for applying mortar on a wall. Does a 14” or a 16” hawk being used with a longer trowel make any sense? It would have been better to cover that old wood lath with wire lath before applying the plaster. As you mentioned, you can add a small amount of portland cement as an excellerator, which will allow for applying a second coat on the same day.

I've ran into these fiber glass repairs on box gutters before, does seem like a pretty good quick repair. I rebuild, reline box gutters pretty much exclusively these days, of course i do all kinds of roofing tho, i just tend to take the kind of jobs i enjoy doing these days. I have one customer who works for the historical society, and they pay me to hand fabricate decorative corbels, sometimes they're made of wood, but sometimes they're made of metal, i fabricate outta whatever the original were made of. I'm getting ready to start about 185 foot rebuild/reline Yankee box gutter. One side is pretty much completely gone, so that's a total rebuild, rafter tails, fall boards, cap boards, pretty much remove what's left of the entire run of gutter, and completely redo it. After 34 years roofing i can honestly say that i still enjoy the hell outta the metal work i get to do. Just something about creating things with your hands, that you know for a fact will be there, doing it's job, long after I'm dead and gone. Leave my mark on the world i suppose. One thing i hate tho is i can't find any young people who wanna learn to do this stuff, all the tricks of the trade I've picked up will just die with me i guess. I've taught quite a few guys how to solder and even taught a few of them how to line a box gutter, the whole left side, right side thing, but i have so much more i could teach the right young man, but I'm only gonna work maybe another 12 years then that's probably when I'll hang up my pouch. I'm sure I'll always do a little stuff here and there, but it's starting to be too much on my body, all the rigging i have to do to be able to do the kinda work i do, the ladders , it's all just starting to be too much on my old body, especially my damn back haha.

I built my own steam box today using a single sheet of foam board insulation from Lowe's. We shall see how it goes. My steamer is set to arrive tomorrow! Thanks for this video!

Wow, you must love fixing. As soon as I heard you describing the condition of the basement when you were buying the house, I just completely "noped". Musta been a good deal, but boy oh boy that sounds like a lot of work. EDIT: One question if you see this. I have an outside door that is rubbing really bad when it swings half way open, and it appears that the foundation settled as there's cracking in the flooring and wall, but the door frame is still nice and square with the door. So I think we need to raise to door frame somehow... it's also a brick building. I'm not sure I even have the tools to tackle this, so I think paying a professional is going to be the easiest way to go, but do you think a job like that would be doable with basic carpentry tools?

Which Mccullough steamer is this?

Got that bronze weatherstrip on my door. It's garbage. It hides the air gaps but has ZERO insulation properties. The cold from the metal will just drip right in your house and can also cause condensation.

This is exactly thr video I needed ty!

What bonding agent do you use? Do you apply bonding agent to your drywall first as well?

Wish I could turn the audio on 1.5x cuz the narration is delivered a little slowly

Many years ago I was able to read specifications for a home being built in California in 1928. The architect spoke of the lathing and clearly stated that plastering was to commence within 48 hours of installation so it did not dry out prior to plaster. You see, the boards were green when installed, not dry. Dry wood affected the lime/sand ,mixture and the wood could warp when wet plaster was applied. The old school plaster took days to set and dry unlike modern hardwall mixes that set in a few hours. I guess the bonder your using seals the wood to prevent this issue occuring. I've seen chicken wire or expanded lath used where replastering over stripped lathing to ensure a good bond in very old repairs done decades ago.

If you give your surface a quick coat of boiled linseed oil about 48 hours before you use the IR tool it will strip even faster. Make sure the linseed oil is dry. Great video

What adjustments did you actually make?

Excellent solution!!! Thank you so much. Is going to save me tons of money and time.

Brilliant!

I thought you were going to jack the joist up to level again.

This is awesome - also I had no figgin clue what nails to use - everythign I got was too big or too small it felt like - wasn't sure If I should just brad nail it in lol

Wouldn’t the cobra be a better way to remove paint?

Where did you buy' diamond veneer?

Great video! A plaster section covering the brick party wall in my unit seems to have broke off and separated from the brick. I removed the loose section and I am planning to use plaster again to restore the original feel of the apt. Another challenge would be to ensure the new plaster section is flush with the old section! Any recommendations on what the best approach would be greatly appreciated.

If you paint gelcoat over the glass it will last longer.

Great video. Did you use Diamond Veneer for the final coat or a Durabond product?

At 6:05 you mentioned putting some of the spring bronze weatherstripping behind the strike plate and that it is needed. BUT you did not show how you bent it or how you installed it. It was just video magically there for you to talk about for about 10 seconds then moved on. Come on man. You have left out important information.

Sometimes, you never know what you're gonna get with DIY YT videos. Thanks for showing the correct way to install the weatherstripping.

What about the bottom of the door?

nipper plyers

My old door has this style of stripping. But I still see light come through on the hinge side. Is it possible to adjust this by bending the strip towards the door so it may make a better seal?

Where can I purchase this? I'm at Home Depot and these people are completely useless.

Thank you! Question : how do you seal the bottom ? Interlocking bronze ?

Thank you very much . Question : what was the piece(part) used for the strike plate ??

Was checking out your fiberglass gutter patch job. Think you are spot on with it. The only thing I would have done differently would be to use a rivet gun instead of screws to avoid cutting screws afterwards. Looks great tho. Great job man!

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Thank you! So glad someone finally has a video on lath. What if I can't access the full space from one stud to the other, but I still need to fix lath that was removed by electrician?