Відео

Yes, It is still drivable but if it calls for traction assist it will only have FWD

Hello, I don’t recall deleting any comments that I know of?

@@mitchnelsonperformance Maybe not...?? I was reading some of the comments and then came back the next day and couldnt find the comments I read the day before. Oh well...no biggie.

Are you performing this in the vehicle with oil filled lifters? I'm trying to figure out if it still works. I'm imagining it does but just don't do the preload?

Awesome! Glad we could help out on your project. Nelson

Hello, you can still use the 3/4 turn and do the adjustment with lifters that already have oil pressure in them. The valve springs have enough pressure to “bleed” the lifter back under full valve lift during the adjustment process since there is no oil pressure until the engine is started up. Good luck on your project! Thanks for the comment and viewing! Nelson

thanks for the comment 😁👌🏻

Hello first off, thanks for the view! Having the manifold on is no problem, you can just watch for the pushrods to fall and rise instead of watching the lifters and if you feel the up and down slack in the pushrod while tightening the adjuster nut you will know when to make the 3/4 turn. You can have a friend tap the starter while you watch them but it takes a very slight tap of the starter to get to the next adjustment. you can still use the 3/4 turn and do the adjustment with lifters that already have oil pressure in them. The valve springs have enough pressure to “bleed” the lifter back under full valve lift during the adjustment process since there is no oil pressure until the engine is started up.

Hello, you can still use the 3/4 turn and do the adjustment with lifters that already have oil pressure in them. The valve springs have enough pressure to “bleed” the lifter back under full valve lift during the adjustment process since there is no oil pressure until the engine is started up. Good luck on your project! Thanks for the comment and viewing! Nelson

sorry if you were unable to see the sensor location

hey Darth, yes, if it has the adjustable locking nuts on studs. Otherwise if it has the (5/16th) bolt down pivots then they are torqued to a spec, but they sell different pushrod lengths to achieve the proper lifter preload and you can use the video to determine the preload. an empty lifter (no oil) should have between .080 minimum and .180 maximum lash between the rocker arm and the tip of the valve when on the base circle (no lift) of the cam to have proper preload. Nelson

hey Tpow, thanks for commenting and the added info 👌 Nelson

thanks Joel, appreciate the comment and the kind words👌🏻 Nelson

thanks for commenting and the view Alex 👍 Nelson

Glad we could help on the project 👌🏻 thank you for the kind words and commenting

Glad we could help out on your project👍 You can do it! Nelson

Hey Steve, thanks for the kind words. Good luck on the project, Nelson

yep 👌🏻 the lifter will “bleed” back the plunger under full lift since there is no oil pressure when you’re turning it over by hand . it shouldn’t need readjusted though after break in.

thank you Joseph glad it helped you on your project. Nelson

Hey Mark, appreciate the kind words 😁 glad it helped you out. Bless you too my friend! God is too good to us all.

Hello Mault, you can still use the 3/4 turn and should to get the cup off the retaining clip and do the adjustment with lifters that already have oil pressure in them. The valve springs have enough pressure to “bleed” the lifter back under full valve lift during the adjustment process since there is no oil pressure until the engine is started up. Good luck on your project! Thanks for the comment and viewing! Nelson

⁠thank you

Hey Gary, glad we could help on your project. Thanks for viewing and the comment. Nelson

You can do it! 👌

@@mitchnelsonperformance I'm not even sure I have to yet, I'm going with its a bad injector at this point. No oil in water, no water in the oil and spark plugs look fine. But if it turns out to be the head gasket then I will have to. On a 88 for f150 5.0, once you get the intake back on you can't get to the valve cover.

Hey, 🤔 not sure why they won’t stay locked but you could always get a set of poly locks. They have a center set screw to lock them and I usually snug them with the wrench (9 1/6-5/8) after tightening the set screw. just don’t over-tighten the nut after or you can crack them.

@@mitchnelsonperformance thats what I started with. 5 or 6 of those came loose. I found a part No. from Melling and gave that to my local parts store. Turns out the advertised thread was 3/8-24NF when in fact they were 3/8-20NF. so I traded those in for the right ones. Also picked up a set off a 69 pickup. One of the 2 should work. I've been fighting this for 3 weeks now. It's crazy. I might trash the motor before it ever breaks in... Yikes

hey Bang Bang, glad we could help on your project! Nelson p.s. don’t break anything 😁

hey William, the same preload will work fine👌

@mitchnelsonperformance Thank you Mitch I appreciate you taking time to get back to me!

lol 😁 Did you purchase the same brand?

Great👌 Glad we could be a part of the project in the Netherlands 😁

I think those were the MSD 8.8 🤔

Great! and yes, I’m sure that Vette was less than fun 😁

yes👌 Hello first off, thanks for the view! Having the manifold on is no problem, you can just watch for the pushrods to fall and rise instead of watching the lifters and if you feel the up and down slack in the pushrod while tightening the adjuster nut you will know when to make the 3/4 turn. You can have a friend tap the starter while you watch them but it takes a very slight tap of the starter to get to the next adjustment. Good luck on the project! Hey, you can just back them off and then readjust them as you go through the process (I.e. you don’t need to back them all off first). A slight up and down feel of the free play will be felt in the pushrod or you can gently lift up and down on the rocker to valve tip until -0- lash is met. You may need to use a 5/8 spark plug or other thin wall socket because I’ve seen thicker wall sockets push against the rocker giving a false feel, or just pull the socket out and check free play then reinsert it as you adjust. Pulling plugs are optional. Once you get it in position (rotation) to begin, the rotations are only 90 deg so it’s fairly easy to rotate between adjustments. If you have a friend that can just feather bump the key, the starter will work great to run through it. Or you could bump it 60 deg and wrench it the other 30

@@mitchnelsonperformance omg thank you! i did it running aleady once, mistake. thats kinda why i asked if i had to back em all off and just start over.. and this motor has 190k you think ill have a stuck lifer or push rod? thanks

@@mitchnelsonperformance second! i just tied to push on the pushrods by pushing on the rocker and they wouldnt move. could there still be oil in the lifters maybe. motorr is warm. not hot

@@mitchnelsonperformance please note...

sorry I wish I could help

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Well. I did it like you said twice. Second time time make sure I didn't flub it up. I just put head gaskets in it n had it top dead center from the beginning. Guess I may not have had in compression stroke but then I started over cause I thought I messed up. IDK. Best I take everything off n do it again. Slowly n methodically. I picked your video cause it made sense. I try it again

Hey Billy, is it at tdc on the correct stroke when the rotor is aiming at #1 cylinder? when it’s at tdc it can be on the exhaust or compression stroke. if you can see the valves they should both be closed on cyl 1 when the rotor is aiming at #1 plug wire.

Hey thanks for viewing and the kind words superpoon 😁, Nelson

I hope it helped you on your project.

Hello, I replaced the torque unit on the rear axle . it’s the part that the driveshaft bolts to and has two small wiring harness plugs on it and an electric actuator motor on the driver side of the unit. it’s usually that part or the front transfer case unit. The splines will strip off where the rear driveshaft comes out of it. it’s easy to diagnose by jacking up all four wheels (or put it on a lift) and put it in drive and push the traction lock button. if the rear driveshaft is turning but the rear wheels are not then it needs the rear torque unit. if the driveshaft doesn’t turn then the front unit splines are worn. Good luck on the project, Nelson.

You're very welcome! thank you and good luck on your project, Nelson.

@@mitchnelsonperformance - Thanks! Ill need it. finally back in the van, break in next... yikes.

Thank you for commenting and the kind words, Nelson

Thanks for the view

Also, my rocker arms are secured in pairs via the pivot retainers. I've tried to tighten them to just before they are tight in equal measure, but will this method still work with these?

BTW, after viewing many videos and reading many forums and service manuals, you seemed to be the smartest tool in the shed! That's the reason I've come to you with my questions. 😊

Hello, sorry for the late reply, usually if the engine sits for a little time with that lifter/rocker at full valve lift, the valve spring will have enough pressure to bleed the oil back in that lifter. It’s a slow bleed down time so it may take some time. Then rotate to the next lifter/rocker that needs bled. You would need to do this by hand because using the starter can at times run the oil pump fast enough to produce oil pressure back in the lifters. Hope that helps and thanks for the kind words and viewing, Nelson.

Thank you very much! Glad we could be a part of your project 😁

Hey Fernando, thank you for the kind words and commenting. Glad we could be a part of your projects, Nelson.

Glad it was helpful! and thanks for the comment and kind words 👍

Hello Greg, first off, thanks for the view! Having the manifold on is no problem, you can just watch for the pushrods to fall and rise instead of watching the lifters and if you feel the up and down slack in the pushrod while tightening the adjuster nut you will know when to make the 3/4 turn. You can have a friend tap the starter while you watch them but it takes a very slight tap of the starter to get to the next adjustment. The lifters should bleed back as you rotate the engine while doing the adjustments. Under full lift and no oil pressure (engine not running) the valve spring will bleed it back unless it has a solid lift cam? Good luck on the project!

Hey 😁 thanks and thanks for the comment 👍

Thank you for commenting, glad it was of help to you, Nelson

Hello, I’m not positive that I understand the question. You will still do the “rock” during the 2nd set of 4 cylinders also.

@@mitchnelsonperformance thanks

I agree! makes it tough on techs when there is no consistency 😳 Thanks for commenting, Nelson

Hello, you can still use the 3/4 turn and do the adjustment with lifters that already have oil pressure in them. The valve springs have enough pressure to “bleed” the lifter back under full valve lift during the adjustment process since there is no oil pressure until the engine is started up. The only other possibility would be if someone had installed a solid lifter cam but not likely. Good luck on your project! Thanks for the comment and viewing! Nelson

@@mitchnelsonperformance thanks for your videos, motor running great now😁