Відео

Intresting

Damn I made that mistake the other day, turned on the spindle in the opposite direction and cracked every insert in half pretty much, fortunately only 3 inserts but still 40 bucks I'll never get back

NOT a "DIVIDING HEAD"...actually a "SSUPER SPACER" ...

Blue Steel Chips are my Favorite Flavor

Well done for grinding the set off the teeth another buggered blade. You only need to grind off the weld that passes through the guides, 3/8" guides for 1/2" blade. any weld left on the teeth area wear off when cutting. Hope this helps. Also advisable to do extra annealing, after doing the center anneal, shift the blade about 1/4" each way and anneal again. This will give an anneal width of about 3/8, and be kinder on the blade. Regards from Australia.

The cardboard box was a great idea, have you thought about putting some kindling in the box first or just stick with the charcoal starter fluid? Just kidding, thanks for the info.

Neat trick with turning that drill bit and marking a cross

good

NIce! Always alot going on in a job shop.

thank you

There is virtually no difference in finish betwen the two. Face mills don't wreck your spindle bearings though. If you are determined to remove machining marks, a quick buzz over with a random orbital sander and scotchbrite takes seconds.

very good!

Awesome. Nice rigid machine too. One thing I was taught as an apprentice, over 30 years ago mine you, lol, was to always machines towards the hard jaw. I never strayed from that pretty much my entire career, and if I ever tried I immediately noticed the difference in rigidity.

Very good information to know. My mill came only with fly cutters, so you have me wanting an end mill. Thank you for sharing this! ua-cam.com/video/-3gpGTVfPw4/v-deo.html

You are breaking technology. The box is not positioned correctly. There it is written in large letters "This side is up"

thank you for this video. I have one of these on my band saw in the wood shop that I teach at and had no real idea what it was. now I know how to use it too.

A good job shop machinist is worth his weight in gold. Standing there and taking on any and everything that come thru the door is a little different than making the same part on the same machine day in and day out.

Thank you

is the mill converted to cnc?

Very cool! Go Sox!! Lol

question .. is not a good idea to use a lubricant spray there ? to help cooling and easier cutting ?

wonderful !!

m.ua-cam.com/video/GtAoh0FaWf4/v-deo.html#

I’m bout to start high school and I’m going to take college classes I was looking at this video for in case I want to apply for this position can you give me your thoughts on it

The title of this video is "fly cutter vs face mill". I think some of the video never made it to this video as there is no comparison done.

I can’t see past that huge red sign

Cool Video

"Let's just turn off the coolant..." 😲 Good thing they didn't insist on the root of the spline being cylindrical like the print... 😁

Looking at that cut you are taking, I'm wondering what the HP of the machine is. Would it be about 3 HP?

These videos are excellent for a novice like me wanting to see how a professional gets the job done.

Nice to see an everyday task being done in a working shop.

That's very useful. Just the sort of information I was looking for. I'd read that carbide can cut hot but this video shows it working in practice.

Where's Napoleon, Pedro & Uncle Rico?

Thanks for you wisdom. I'M a MACHINIST VIRGIN and surely need direction from the old schoolers.

I am machinist for 25 years, fly cutter shouldn't exist ,maybe 50 years ago was ok but not today, just my 2 cents. Great video ,thank you.

Cool, Great video of the back side of a cardboard box.. hahsha

If you still need a radius in the corner this would be a a much easier job on a cnc, just lay them flat and mill that contour with a feed mill, an hour tops for the first part and then less then 10 min per part after that..

I'm a engineering student and I don't have a ton of experience with mills, but aren't you concerned about over-heating. It was making some pretty loud noises screeching, and I assumed that you'd use cutting fluid?

Subbed, thanks for the lesson!

yes I threw out my fly cutters 30 years ago and I simply use a shell mill. for critical surfaces however take out all but one insert to finish such as on critical mold surfaces. by leaving all the inserts in the z pressure is too much and you will notice the surface is not as good combined with when the cutter goes off the edge the pressure of the 2 or 3 inserts is released and the final insert will dig down into the part on the edges. This effect is real and VERY pronounced such as with 6 insert cutters especially if they have a wiper flat because that wiper flat can add up 1/4 of flat scrubbing--work hardening and destroying the surface and also eliminating the chance to feed in the z with accuracy. another trick if using one insert to finish is to take a diamond knife lap and stone off slightly the wiper flat you will be astonished at the surface and the ability to cut to tenths on thickness also on mold surfaces or surfaces that must be polished there will be almost no work hardened layer.

Impressive. Would you please tell me what Brand of Face Mill that is and what inserts it takes? There are many on the market with a wide range of prices. I ran across one similar to yours on the internet and it was $750! What was the cost of yours? Thank you very much

That's a great museum. I visited the museum several years ago when I was visiting in the area. I lived in Kalamazoo as a kid till we moved to the farm in Three Rivers. I served my t&d apprenticeship at Production Tooling Inc in TR. Moved to Iowa in 1983. I see you have a bunch of interesting videos. Looking forward to watching them. Tc, Mike

Annealing the blade after welding it is important.....see the results starting at the 6:10 mark.

Very interesting process

I sure should hope that your cutters aren't coming out of your R8 collet, or you are doing something seriously wrong...

700 degree chips vs. cardboard box? sounds like a celebrity death match.

I wanted to know about the patterns !

nice job Tim! nick

Adding a little more information about this project: Socket Head Cap Screws are made of an alloy steel, in this case. These are the toughest grade of screw - Grade 8 or DIN 12.9 for metric. They are made of an alloy steel and hardened to around 38 Rockwell (Rc). They have a tensile strength of 170,000 PSI. * Metallurgy is the prevalent study of these materials, strengths and hardness, and very important in manufacturing, especially now with traceability of all goods that we use. Screws of all styles are made of many materials, depending on their final use. * The threads were cut longer by using a "Chasing Die" or "Thread Repairing Die". When using one of these dies, the cut only goes from one side, which has a lead angle, so the threads can gradually cut in to the material (the opposite side doesn't have that lead angle). These dies would be made from hardened carbon steel or high speed steel, because they have to be significantly harder than the bolt material (more metallurgy). They are commonly available ---- Buy "Made in USA" !

Stainless steel is not magnetic. Easy way to tell .