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Initially I was concerned that it might warp without the brackets, but now that it’s been up for a while I think it would’ve held up fine.

Sorry about that, if you lift up the hood it’s on the very front center

Mine looks a little different than yours but I wanna make sure. I misplaced my users manual so I can’t look. ua-cam.com/users/shortssqsSLzwhhIM?si=f0eJrLlye3Iui6PU

ua-cam.com/users/shortssqsSLzwhhIM?si=f0eJrLlye3Iui6PU think mine is a little different than yours. I misplaced my owners manual and low on funds so I have to do this myself. Thank you for your help

Great question! Some stud finders have more advanced features than mine does for detecting what’s behind a wall, but there’s a few things you can do to help avoid pipes without buying a more advanced one. First is noting the width of the object detected by the stud finder. A 2x4 stud will be approximately 1.5” thick. You can also check the distance to the next stud. Studs are generally spaced 16” apart (in the US) so that’s a pretty good indication as well. Depending on the age of your house, you can also sometimes see small circles on the wall that are drywall screws/nails. If you see those in a vertical line, that would also indicate a stud.

Thank you!

I’m not sure, but this is using the standard Ryobi replacement part for my trimmer model

Thanks!

I like the straight cut idea as well but the 45 degree angle takes out 1-2 more steps

Minus the strength of course

Thank you! God bless you too!

I have the exact same problem! I took the flaps off and it’s definitely better, but I’m working on making some type of cheap funnel for the dust but haven’t found a great solution yet.

Yes, great point.

Actually it's a confusing issue. The more I looked into it there may not be a direction. Some have it and some don't. But the thing is if you put it in One direction and then you later on switch that direction. All the stuff you are trapping ends up on the other side and will flow freely into the carburetor. So from what I'm reading, if it doesn't have a direction arrow then if you take it off you take it off to replace it. Otherwise you could switch it and screw up the carburetor. That's my understanding right now

Thank you - this is 2x12” pine!

Thank you! My spacing is approximately 22 inches. It wasn’t a very exact science haha, I think I just took the number of rows I wanted to have and spaced them evenly on the wall, which ended up being that spacing. If I were to do it again, I would probably cut each of the long strips in half longways (so they would be thinner) and add those extra strips in between - so instead of 5 strips spaced 22 inches it would be 10 strips spaced 11 inches apart. This would allow for more space for additional hooks and would be a better use of the material, since I don’t think the thicker pieces add much if any additional strength. The key thing to keep in mind is not to position them so close together that you can’t easily add and remove the french cleat, but that probably wouldn’t be a concern unless your spacing was 6” or less.

Thank you so much! What you said makes sense. Again, great video. I’ll be tackling this project soon.

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks! That’s a great consideration and great point, it definitely is easier with a piece on that side as well.

Thank you, and I appreciate the tip! God bless!

Thank you! And great idea to use the clay!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much, God bless!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks! Great point

I’m totally with you on that, it’s not worth the risk getting under something that could fail. Nice, those sound super sturdy! I don’t know for certain what the weight it can support is, but I would feel very confident putting even the heaviest vehicle on top of these ramps. Since it’s solid material, I don’t see any easy way for it to fail as long as you’re on a level surface.

@@augustpineworkshop True....they're a solid block of wood. I have read of people making a frame work with wood and driving a vehicle on it.....I wouldn't do that.

Yeah, I would also be hesitant with that type of structure

Great idea! I’m working on some other french cleats and will definitely do that next time.

Thanks! And I really appreciate the feedback. I put a Bible verse in all of my full length videos and usually use edit those longer videos down into shorts. So in this case I just edited that section to be too short, so it ended up not being so easy to read. Definitely something I will keep in mind moving forward!

Thank you!

Thanks, I will give that a try in the future

That’s very interesting, thanks for sharing! If you’re able to find the study I would definitely like to read more. God bless you too!

Thanks for sharing, that’s a great point to consider!

Thanks! I did have some concerns about the long-term effectiveness of it and if it would truly kill the weeds, but after a few weeks it’s still kept the area pretty clear. There have been a few spots here and there that have sprouted up (which also happens with chemicals in my experience), but nothing too significant. God bless you too!

Awesome, that’s a great idea to add the grip tape too!

You will know it is not in eternity, but then it will be to late. I hope you find out soon.

Why? Even if you don’t believe…. Others do! Did it hurt you in any way? You should stay off you tube because your feelings get hurt to easy!

May God have mercy on your soul.

@@jamieritchey8680 YES it hurt me!! FUCK YOU!!

@@scotts8284 There ISN'T such a thing!! FUCK YOU!

Thank you!

For this style of disc filter, it shouldn’t matter (assuming you’re replacing it with a new filter - if it’s a used one from another mower make sure you match the flow direction used previously to ensure you don’t send debris to your carburetor). If your mower has the larger fuel filter tube style, generally the flat end is on the side closest to the carburetor. Those types will usually have an arrow to indicate the proper installation direction. This particular filter does not have an arrow.

I’ve never tried it myself but I have seen some other people do it, so that should work too!

Awesome, I’m glad it was helpful!

Totally understand the concerns about the bracing - I plan to add brackets under each of the posts to improve this. The pilot holes and countersunk screws were both important for this build because they help to prevent splitting (since I was drilling into the end grain of the wood) as well as ensure that each of the vertical beams can sit flush with the wall. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your comment, I think this is probably the best move to ensure long term stability!

@@augustpineworkshop you must have to have done it that way… no worries dude, you and I have a lot more in common than our minor differences of opinion about adequate bracketage. Mad respect for your commitment to the build 👍🏻

Thank you!

The screw tensile strength would probably be OK, I think the weak link is that the screws are trying to hold the end grain. The wood will give out before the screws snap. I built a similar shelving unit in my garage, but drilled holes and glued dowels through the wide side 2" from the end to drive the screws through. That seemed much stronger to me. I could be wrong, but they're still holding multi-hundred pounds of weight after a few years.

I think that you’re right about the screws in the end grain. It’s held up well over the course of a couple years, but I will likely add brackets to improve the strength.

My thoughts exactly!

Thanks for your comment! It’s held up well over the course of a couple years and also doesn’t have much weight on each individual bar when you consider how the weight is distributed across them, but I agree that additional bracing would be beneficial. I plan to add some brackets under each for additional support.

This reminds me of the saying "Any idiot can build a bridge, but it takes and engineer to build a bridge that barely stands". Most people over engineer their builds but you have done the math and found out simple will work just fine.

Thank you!

I think what is confusing is he used both ends as "males".