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Great video! Did you use a sealer before the top coat?

Floor refinisher....we water pop the floor before stain which opens the grain and makes stain deeper and more uniform. Maybe try.

I've been really disappointed with all the methods available to fill countersunk holes in outdoor furniture builds. I have tried everything (wood putty, wood filler, wood glue with sawdust, dowels, and clear liquid epoxy). So far, the only method that really does a nice job is dowels but it's very difficult to sinks holes deep enough without sacrificing the integrity of the wood, so I've been using clear epoxy but it hardens so fast and I have to add pigment. What a nightmare this has been Anyway, I just ordered a tube of this stuff and I'm really looking forward to using it to fill screw holes. Wish me luck and thanks for this video.

can you drop the link you of the every part on the video? that I can buy cheap price

Where do you find it on Amazon

So I’ve followed your lead, my relay simply clicks. No power to the motor. With my old faulty relay I can get power to the motor still intermittently. Would you be able to help?

Will this work with water based stain?

This is the best video I have seen

Love it whos make is it?

What grit did you stop at? Before applying stain

Both videos are great and very helpful as I have a 10hp motor I want to use to make one. I do have a question. On some other videos I've watched people also use run capacitors to even up the voltage per leg. Have you had any issues without them?

This was about the best video I could find on these. At my motor, which just died, I had 240V, 240V, and 200V, that's about a 15% drop. I'm not sure if that's acceptable or if that's what smoked my motor? My static convertor has worked for 20 years, flawlessly; but, now I have to get my Bridgeport motor rewound...

Super hot here in California right now. I've been toying with this idea too

Is there a number or specific color for this stain ?

The first 4 seconds of this video with the slow head raise got me thinking of the undertaker! Come watch epoxy videos and instead im getting ready to go watch wrestlemania 3.😂

Hello friend, good morning, I have a question. In the white magnetic switch, 220v comes from the input, does that same power the black magnetic switch? Or where are the 220v of the white magnetic switch connected?

love your build ,great stuff Chris....

what type of motor are you using Chris...can the power output be increased by using a larger capacity motor on the rotary rig?

Awesome work. Drawer notching machines cost upwards of $10k. This would save you a lot of money.

You should be feeding your Phantom phase with run capacitors . Otherwise your single phasing the motor and thats hard on it as the motor will only be roughly 2/3 of its rating .And the reason it wont immediately restart is the potential relay has a 1-1.5 second restart safety as these are built for HVACR equiptment generally used on single phase semi hermetic compressors .

Mine does the same thing. (The "backfeeding" ) It's a 2 pole idler, and when you shut it off and it slows down enough, the potential relay goes into its normally closed state and reconnects the start capacitor causing the idler to slow down very quickly. I dont think that really harms anything, so I never really worried about it. If anything it will shunt the charge in the start capacitors through the windings and discharge them without needing a bleed resistor.

I see no info regarding the connection between the two breakers. I can only assume they connect thru a common electrical connection in the mount.

Another simpler way would be to stand the wheel against the wall and just push the forks into the tyre?

This is perfect. I'm making this!!

Why aren’t you using a turn table?

I'm confused as to how L1 & L2 get to the 2nd circuit breaker. Can you show that? Other than that, GREAT VIDEO. Thanx

Im using a square d magnetic starter. Im making a rotary phase converter using you're designs, thanks so much for this informative video. Anyway, how should i wire this? Hopefully this gets to you

It’s not like we all have a machine sitting around in our garage!!

Thanks for doing a back up video from your first build. I am hoping I can learn from these. I am building a 10hp rotary now for a lathe. The idle motor I bought did not have a diagram so still doing research on it to figure out how to wire it.

Very very helpful. Thanks!

How cool!!

So this is running a three phase motor on single phase 220 . ( which is of course two diametrically opposed sine waves) not really a three phase converter , just a work around .

The reason you have to wait between starts is to give the bleed resistor time to discharge the start capacitor. The current going to the start capacitor has a 90 degree phase shift that provides the other "phase" for starting. But, it only provides that while the capacitor is charging. Once charged, it acts like just another AC conductor. So, you have to begin your start sequence with a discharged capacitor. If you want to restart more quickly, add another normally open switch between the two poles of the capacitor in series with a very low ohm but high wattage resistor to discharge the capacitor more quickly. Alternatively, you can just short the cap, but you'll get a good spark.....could be dangerous with dusty conditions or volatile fumes present. Nice job!

Hi Chris, this is very useful indeed. I have made a static converter for a small 0.5HP motor and it works but the relay contacts arc too much. I used a (too) small relay and then a potentiometer in the relay coil to adjust the pickup voltage (I've seen several designs like this on UA-cam). But because the relay is more an "on/off" relay it does not do well when the voltage is climbing and takes too long to open. Also it's behaviour is a bit erratic and not very predictable. Maybe the relay would last a few weeks or months but soon enough the contacts will burn out or weld. So I've bought the SUPCO APR5 like you but here in the UK there is limited supply of any of these potential relays and it cost me £42 / $52US. All told my static converter is costing me about the same as a cheap inverter - but I don't need speed control on this particular machine and I don't want to rewire the machine switches. Cheers.

I incorporated a three wire magnetic starter between the potential relay and the motor. Am I doing it correctly?

The most likely reason you cannot restart the motor right away is in the potential relay. If it’s design is like the ptc’s for refrigerator compressors then they operate like a positive thermal coefficient. Meaning it has to cool down before restarting. In refrigerators this prevents the compressors windings from meltdown!

Finally, a technique for pros to use! Thanks so much for your advice. Been trying to develop a work flow for our shop that counters blotches

what can I use to spray on; I do not have a sprayer like you used?

Are you not using run capacitors?

Chris, thank you for making the original & this follow up video to what seems like a simple design. I struggled to follow S-Bird Ranch's build. Mine ran for 8-10 cycles, then tripped the breaker every time. It has a whole bunch of capacitors and I don't know what all components. Of course, he doesn't answer questions, so I'm left with machines I cannot run. I'll give your simple design a shot...fingers crossed!

'Promo SM'

Fantastic, thank you for sharing this!

On topic, great video. For the love of all that's holy, cut your fkn fingernails 💀

I'm definitely gonna make one of these. You should do a how to video Of the build.

Very interesting!

A patent covering this technique is: 2,502,099 March 28, 1950 SINGLE PHASE MOTOR STARTING By O. Lindfors The point is that you’re treating the 3-phase motor as a single phase motor and the second phase winding as a start winding. Once it starts ‘rolling’ the winding being treated as a start winding generates BEMF that the potential sensing relay senses and drops out. The patent has more explanation for those interested. One thing to emphasize though, is that now the motor is being used as a single phase, one winding motor and can not reach the full torque and power output that the 3-phase motor can. A continuous ‘run’ capacitor could improve this a bit, but still won’t achieve the level of the 3-phase motor fed with 3 phases. I have a big, old STAR radial arm saw with a single phase motor that uses this technique as opposed to the simple centrifugal throw out switch used on pretty much any single phase motor of any typical home application with the exception of small desk fan motors using shaded poles for the phase difference to get the rotor rolling or brush motors in vacuum cleaners.

Thanks for the video. May try this on a 5hp 3 phase radial arm saw.

Chris - thanks for sharing, I'm wondering why 's the CB Left-Black 30A and CB Right is 50A? Is Black-L1 & White-L1 connected?

Wonder if that dust cloud is flammable?

Thanks for the great info I was just wondering about the cheap Chinese switch how is it holding up? All current to the 10hp motor plus whatever equipment you run is going thru it. Im thinking about using a blade type switch