- 2
- 22 808
Homebrew Republic
United States
Приєднався 26 жов 2018
At Homebrew Republic our videos talk about brewing beer at home from grain to glass, the whole brew day. We feature everything you need to know about home brew. How yeast is used in brewing and how to propagate your yeast. We offer free homebrewing recipes in pdf. We discuss home brewing equipment and supplies. We are always trying different hops and new ways to use them.
I have been homebrewing for over 10 years and just love the whole process of brewing. Whether its playing with water profiles, propagating yeast, or sharing your homebrew with friends I am a fan of it all.
I have been homebrewing for over 10 years and just love the whole process of brewing. Whether its playing with water profiles, propagating yeast, or sharing your homebrew with friends I am a fan of it all.
Yeast harvesting from a starter the Brulosophy overbuild method. Save money making a yeast starter.
Yeast harvesting from a starter the Brulosophy overbuild method. Harvest and reuse your yeast from a starter and don't waste your time with washing your yeast from your frementer. Save money making a yeast starter for your homebrew.
I overbuild my yeast starter and harvest enough to ferment 6 gallons / 23 liters of wort and save enough for a starter so that I can propagate and overbuild this yeast strain again, generation after generation. You can keep this process going and you can easily get over 8 generations.
Yeast Starter Recipe:
1 gram DME for every 10ml of water will give you an original gravity of 1.040
100g DME + 1000ml water = 1.040 OG
200g DME + 2000ml water = 1.040 OG
If the OG (original gravity) is too far above 1.040 it creates too much of a good thing for the yeast. When the sugar and nutrient content is too concentrated it stresses the yeast out, you don't get their full potential and there is a chance for off flavors.
If the OG is to low there is not enough sugar and nutrient for the yeast to eat. So keep it right around 1.040 OG. In this case bigger is not better.
Yeast Starter Calculator:
www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php
Water:
Use the same water you use for your brewing water. Use something without chlorine or chloramine.
Equipment:
Erlenmeyer Flask - b.link/Flask (2000ml is the smallest size my overbuild method works with) Bigger is better.
Stir Bar - b.link/stirbars
Stir Plate - www.stirstarters.com/
Scale - b.link/Scale
Yeast - Brewers Choice
Aluminum foil - b.link/Foil
DME (dried malt extract): b.link/DME-Pilsen - Pilsen Malt or the lightest you can find.
Large Pot: I use a 6 quart stainless steel pot - b.link/6qt-Pot
Mason Jars: I am using the 1 quart size - b.link/masonjars
Hot pad or ove glove - b.link/Hot-Gloves
Digital infrared thermometer - b.link/Infrared-Thermometer
2 Stage Water Filter - b.link/Water-Filter
Cool Spoon - b.link/Cool-Spoon
Stir Plate:
You can make your own DIY stir plate or buy one.
The parts to build a stir plate can add up quickly. It depends on how much stuff you have laying around or what you can find for free. I made my stir plate it took time and money if I had to do it again I would probably just buy one from Stir Starters.
I'm not too sure about the quality and longevity of some of the stir plates on amazon.
If you don't want to make your own stir plate check out the ones from Stir Starters. He is a home brewer, they have a lifetime warranty, and they are under $50.
www.stirstarters.com/
Steps:
2100ml of water without chlorine or chloramine.
Leave around 800ml of water in flask pour the rest into a large pot.
Add stir bar to erlenmeyer flask before you start heating it up this will prevent superheating.
Add your foil lid before things get hot.
Add DME (dried malt extract) to pot before the boil starts.
Once boil starts turn down heat and simmer flask and dme for 10 minutes.
Cool to room temperature before pitching your yeast.
Your yeast and wort should both be at room temperature within 2°f of each other.
Let it spin for 24-48 hours.
Sanitize your jar that will hold your starter that you are saving.
With everything in solution pour off 700-800ml to save as your future starter.
Here is where the different methods come into play.
For either method you choose, save 700-800ml of the starter mixture you just made in a sanitized jar for your future starter. The remaining starter will be pitched into your wort.
Method A: Save 700-800ml of the starter mixture into a sanitized jar for your future starter. Pour the remainder of your starter mixture into clean sanitized jars with lids, or you can keep the remainder in the flask. Put them in the fridge to chill for 24-36 hours until all the yeast has settled into cakes on the bottom of the jars. Decant (pour off) the supernatant (liquid on top of the yeast cakes). Be careful not to disturb the yeast as you pour off the liquid. Keep enough liquid so that you can swirl the yeast into a pourable slurry, around 200ml.
Method B: Save 700-800ml of the starter mixture into a sanitized jar for your future starter. Keep the yeast for your wort in the flask. You can pitch all of it into your fermenter: the starter beer and yeast together, the whole thing. No need to decant.
Brulosophy:
brulosophy.com/methods/yeast-harvesting/
Links Below:
Blank Brew Sheet PDF: b.link/blankrecipesheet
Amazon Gear List: b.link/amazongear
Instagram: site.photos/ig_brew
Website: b.link/homebrewrepublic
How long will it keep viable in the fridge? 6 months no problem
Viability should be similar to commercial yeast. If the starter has been in the fridge sitting under beer for more than 6+ months I will do a two step starter. The overbuild calculator will help you with this.
I overbuild my yeast starter and harvest enough to ferment 6 gallons / 23 liters of wort and save enough for a starter so that I can propagate and overbuild this yeast strain again, generation after generation. You can keep this process going and you can easily get over 8 generations.
Yeast Starter Recipe:
1 gram DME for every 10ml of water will give you an original gravity of 1.040
100g DME + 1000ml water = 1.040 OG
200g DME + 2000ml water = 1.040 OG
If the OG (original gravity) is too far above 1.040 it creates too much of a good thing for the yeast. When the sugar and nutrient content is too concentrated it stresses the yeast out, you don't get their full potential and there is a chance for off flavors.
If the OG is to low there is not enough sugar and nutrient for the yeast to eat. So keep it right around 1.040 OG. In this case bigger is not better.
Yeast Starter Calculator:
www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php
Water:
Use the same water you use for your brewing water. Use something without chlorine or chloramine.
Equipment:
Erlenmeyer Flask - b.link/Flask (2000ml is the smallest size my overbuild method works with) Bigger is better.
Stir Bar - b.link/stirbars
Stir Plate - www.stirstarters.com/
Scale - b.link/Scale
Yeast - Brewers Choice
Aluminum foil - b.link/Foil
DME (dried malt extract): b.link/DME-Pilsen - Pilsen Malt or the lightest you can find.
Large Pot: I use a 6 quart stainless steel pot - b.link/6qt-Pot
Mason Jars: I am using the 1 quart size - b.link/masonjars
Hot pad or ove glove - b.link/Hot-Gloves
Digital infrared thermometer - b.link/Infrared-Thermometer
2 Stage Water Filter - b.link/Water-Filter
Cool Spoon - b.link/Cool-Spoon
Stir Plate:
You can make your own DIY stir plate or buy one.
The parts to build a stir plate can add up quickly. It depends on how much stuff you have laying around or what you can find for free. I made my stir plate it took time and money if I had to do it again I would probably just buy one from Stir Starters.
I'm not too sure about the quality and longevity of some of the stir plates on amazon.
If you don't want to make your own stir plate check out the ones from Stir Starters. He is a home brewer, they have a lifetime warranty, and they are under $50.
www.stirstarters.com/
Steps:
2100ml of water without chlorine or chloramine.
Leave around 800ml of water in flask pour the rest into a large pot.
Add stir bar to erlenmeyer flask before you start heating it up this will prevent superheating.
Add your foil lid before things get hot.
Add DME (dried malt extract) to pot before the boil starts.
Once boil starts turn down heat and simmer flask and dme for 10 minutes.
Cool to room temperature before pitching your yeast.
Your yeast and wort should both be at room temperature within 2°f of each other.
Let it spin for 24-48 hours.
Sanitize your jar that will hold your starter that you are saving.
With everything in solution pour off 700-800ml to save as your future starter.
Here is where the different methods come into play.
For either method you choose, save 700-800ml of the starter mixture you just made in a sanitized jar for your future starter. The remaining starter will be pitched into your wort.
Method A: Save 700-800ml of the starter mixture into a sanitized jar for your future starter. Pour the remainder of your starter mixture into clean sanitized jars with lids, or you can keep the remainder in the flask. Put them in the fridge to chill for 24-36 hours until all the yeast has settled into cakes on the bottom of the jars. Decant (pour off) the supernatant (liquid on top of the yeast cakes). Be careful not to disturb the yeast as you pour off the liquid. Keep enough liquid so that you can swirl the yeast into a pourable slurry, around 200ml.
Method B: Save 700-800ml of the starter mixture into a sanitized jar for your future starter. Keep the yeast for your wort in the flask. You can pitch all of it into your fermenter: the starter beer and yeast together, the whole thing. No need to decant.
Brulosophy:
brulosophy.com/methods/yeast-harvesting/
Links Below:
Blank Brew Sheet PDF: b.link/blankrecipesheet
Amazon Gear List: b.link/amazongear
Instagram: site.photos/ig_brew
Website: b.link/homebrewrepublic
How long will it keep viable in the fridge? 6 months no problem
Viability should be similar to commercial yeast. If the starter has been in the fridge sitting under beer for more than 6+ months I will do a two step starter. The overbuild calculator will help you with this.
Переглядів: 22 323
Відео
Hazy Rye IPA with Crushed Peppercorns. An all grain beer recipe you can brew at home.
Переглядів 4924 роки тому
In this video we are brewing a Hazy Rye IPA with crushed peppercorns. This homebrew all grain beer recipe has 43 grams of crushed peppercorns and some tasty dry hops to give this home crafted beer a lot of flavor and a little kick. Links Below: PDF Recipe: b.link/hazyryeipa Blank Brew Sheet PDF: b.link/blankrecipesheet Bru n Water: b.link/brunwater Amazon Gear List: b.link/amazongear Instagram:...
A super informativ video.. Thank you for that... Happy brewing to you from denmark
The best front to back video on stsrters i’ve seen. Cheers
Great video! Enjoyed your presentation and all the information too! Will be using this going forward. Thank you!
Great video. Do you still ride? I noticed the cycling art on the wall. Cheers
Great explanation, thank you very much!
Good work dude... Anyway, you can not measure a temperature using an IR Thermometer on a shiny or reflecting surface... It may reflect IR rays from the environment and falsify your readings... I usually place a matt surface, like a piece of matt adhesive tape on flasks or even steel fermenters, and then measure the temperature with the IR thermometer pointing to that area...
Don't see the point of messing around with thermometers..... simply leave the hot liquid overnight to attain room temperature
Knowledgeable. Thanks!!!
no nutrients?? total noob here btw
A useful bit of info. 1ml of water weighs 1 gram. So 1000ml of water =1 liter…weighs 1000g=1 kilo. Metric…all the way!
A pro tip through a silica gel pack in the bag of dme one from a pill bottle works great just not one from a beef jerky pack I know that's common sense but there is a severe lack going around and someone will do it.
Why would you add more DME if the water is going to evaporate? You don't add extra grain to your recipe due to boiloff. If it going to evaporate then it will go to your target volume. If you add extra DME to compensate for the extra water then that DME becomes extra when the water is no longer there.
Could the left over yeast from a primary wine be put in a small mason jar with sugar & water with a cloth lid become vinegar?
When pitching the entire starter I have had some detectable DMS in the final beer. I guess from the short boil of the dme starter wort. Problem solved when decanting the supernatant.
mate, what is DME? thanks!
Dry Malt Extract. When I'm just talking privately to someone, I just say "dry malt", not D M E. 2 syllables. Alternatively; LME is short for Liquid Malt Extract. I just say 'syrup'. Again, only two syllables. And anyone will know what you're talking about, unless they're playing with you. Which is really annoying.
Сладкие газированные напитки с их пустыми калориями не просто бесполезны для здоровья, а приближают смерть. Они так же опасны, как бекон, копчёная колбаса, ветчина и сосиски.
Im sure every strain is different, but how many generations are you typically gettting out of them?
Watching this video 3 years from the date, and just as relevant! I love your style, way more informative than other homebrew channels out there!
good informative video. you should make more of these.
Awesome channel! Beginner question. What is the starter used for here vs the smaller jars? Is the idea that the starter can be used to build even more generations of yeast or? :) Thank you!!
Yep, the starter would be used for future brews. The ones he labeled A and B (smaller jars of yeast) are for his next brew.
@@smaster15 Yes, but why - in the other method - are all the jars poured in anyway? It seems like such a waste for such a small batch. I understand a ten gallon or more. But that amount looks like it would slam like 3 five gallon batches easily. I must b missing something simple.
@@curtbusch1428 I'm not sure I fully understand your confusion or question. What other method? Do you mean why is he pitching all of the yeast in jars A and B into his next 5gal brew? If this is the question, the answer is in the title of the video-he overbuilt the starter so that there's much more yeast than necessary. You can look up why brewers overbuild starters, you don't need me explaining that also to you. I'd personally recommend it, if for anything but the speed of brewing-fermentation speeds up drastically with overbuilt starters compared to pitching straight from the commercial packet.
Appreciate the open view of the homebrew process, certainly takes the edge off and just explore what it has to offer.
excellent video.. congrats! a question: how long does the starter is viable on the fridge? thanks!
Much appreciated. I always have done my starters all in the flask and I have to babysit it really closely. I am going to try this next time
Luv your low cost simple explanation. Can’t wait to make starters!!!
Thanks for the video. I haven’t brewed anything yet, just watching videos to learn atm. I had a question though. What was that thick layer of debris on the bottom of your wort? It looked like trub from a ferment, but you hadn’t even started fermenting, correct? Thanks. Good video.
Yeast will continue to reproduce when oxygen is present. The constant spinning from the stir plate creates oxygen. After it settles and is cool that is a yeast cake on the bottom. Dormant live yeast. There are rumors that 100 mL is equal to a 100 billion cell count. I currently do not have a way of measuring or knowing what the cell count is.
Enjoyed this method. I do a similar process. Keeps the nice fresh clean yeast away from all the trube and hops debris. The overbuild method. I also premake all my starter wort and pressure can it for about a 6month supply. Saves a lot of time. Makes it quick to make a starter. Love your videos. Love to see more!!
This guy has an uncanny resemblance to Daniel Plainviews assumed "brother" in There Will be Blood....
What was the name of the farm next to the hill house ? Boom !
great tutorial clip except your faces! why many of you can't talk normally?
?
great video - i'm thinking of trying this for the first time soon.
Doesn't the supernatant have alcohol in it?
Yes it does. It is essentially beer around 4% ABV. It just doesn’t taste very good. The constant movement creates oxygen which helps yeast grow but makes beer taste bad.
The magnetic stirrer is typically used on a magnetic oscillator which makes it spin around, mixing the contents of the container. It's common in labs. It does NOT prevent a body of water from becoming super-heated. Super-heating happens because an undisturbed meniscus of water has more tensile strength than the energy of heated water below has to break it, even when that water is above 100ºC. Thus when the meniscus is finally broken, the super-heated water beneath will try to vaporise instantly and you get flying water. You can overcome this in two ways: 1) simply swirl the water occasionally to break the surface or 2) put something in the water that breaks the surface, like a chopstick.
Thanks for the clarification. Next time I will throw in a chopstick before I move it off the stove.
Hi from the UK I really found your videos enjoyable and informative. Why have you only done 2? Please make more!They are better than most out there.
Great video. For how long do you keep your harvested yeast in the fridge before re-using?
It is best used fresh. It can still preform well after a couple of months in the fridge. It loses viability as it ages.
Thank you for the great video. How long have you kept starters in the fridge? can it be done more long term or is it a use it quickly kind of thing?
I find it to preform the same as commercial yeast. It looses viability with time, but it is good to go for 6 months or so. Thanks for the questions.
Thanks so much for this. By far the most in depth and easiest to follow instructions on how and why to do this. Thanks again!
Nice video man.
Great video! Question - how do you know how much harvested yeast to pitch?
On the homebrew side it is really an educated guess. I’ve relied on what has worked for others and what has worked for me, good notes and loads of batches. On the pro Brewer side you use a microscope.
@@homebrewrepublic8001 Well, I kinda had the same question. 'Roughly' how much? What do you start with, in terms of liquid or dry? One 'packet' (or little bottle, in your case above), that would normally do 5 gallons. Or double it? Or, in another way of looking at it; how much would that little bottle pitch if you were to use it straight, directly into your wort - without first starting a culture?
Seriously I am so impressed by the effort that went into this. I’m up in Boulder, CO. I noticed the flag and thought you might be around. I joined a little homebrew club up here called Hop Barley and the Alers.
Hey man thanks a lot. I hear that is a great club in Boulder. I’m with a club in Golden. Clubs are a great way to interact with other homebrewers and up your game.
Wow. Incredible editing and production quality. New subscriber for sure. I’m also beginning to get into homebrew video-making. Cheers.
Great Vid! anyone else get nervous how he was handling that flask? ha scary!
I've watched many videos on doing yeast starters and overbuilding, I enjoyed this one the most. I would recommend taking the foil off to put the laser thermometer into the actual wort to take the temperature inside the flask, the outside temp can be much different than the inside temp.
Liquid Gold Thanks. I will try that next time to see if there is a difference.
Quick heads-up regarding IR thermometers: they’re not known for their accuracy when pointed at reflective surfaces, such as glass, liquid, or tin foil. If you want absolute accuracy you’re better off using a regular sanitised thermometer directly in the liquid.
Well done video
Excelent video! Thanks for helping