Відео

Thank You. Make sure you stay tuned for more episodes on this car. There's plenty more to come

@chriskappes9170 I had to purchase a full L&R cowl side and L&R lower hinge reinforcement panels. I just cut off what I needed from the new cowl side panels. The full cowl sides are nice to have because if you start to find even more rust, you'll have all you need for the repair. If your rust is very extensive, I'd just replace the full panel. I believe I purchased everything from AMD. I think Summit Racing and Jegs also sell them.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 thank you i think i will do as you did i have not cut it yet so more metal could be a good thing love the videos very helpful thanks again

@@chriskappes9170 You're welcome !!

@andrewandrewa224 the videos coming up will show what I had to do to make a correct repair. If there is something specific you'd like to know about, I'd be more than happy to go over the repair in greater detail

I dropped the floor out of my 67 GTO yesterday and today I started on the kick panels. My outer rockers and toe boards are perfect so I’m not sure how to cut out the bad part of the kick panel with the toe board in the way? I stopped for the night maybe a fresh look at it tomorrow will help.

That hinge pillar is available and it goes all the way to the roof. The kick panel is available as well. I replaced them on the passenger side of my 67 sedan as well as both inner and outer rockers.

@randycarr5168 yes. Those full pillars are what I purchased. I just used the lower sections since the upper portion was not rusted. As you follow along with this series of videos, you'll see what all needed to be done. Stay tuned for more!!

@engineer6250 You are 100% correct. That was discussed prior to me starting this project, but there is sentimental value attached to this car with the family.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 totally understandable. Have a good weekend, Sir!

@@boss30268able Thank you. My shop is located in Ottawa, Ohio.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 how do I contact you?

@michaelannen4168 Thank You for the compliment.

@@jamiemcwilliams7937 If I recall, they were Goodmark or Dynacorn quarter panels. My supplier buys from multiple manufacturers, so I'm not sure which ones were shipped to my shop.

@russwedemeyer5602 there's plenty more to come. Stay tuned!!

From what I saw, the wheelhouses were stamped incorrectly.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 What brand were the outer and inner wheelhouses?

@@davidcrocker8356 if I recall, I got them from AMD. I didn't order the pre-welded wheelhouse assemblies because I was unsure of their fitment. I'm glad I ordered them individually.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 Hello again, I want to say how much I enjoyed your videos on the 67 GTO. Although I'm not deep into the restoration of my 67, I'm afraid my restoration is going to be very similar to the one you did on the white 67. For the past couple of years, I've been just digging around the car, taking pictures figuring out what parts I'm going to need, and then buying them. Everything is getting so expensive plus the shipping cost is getting crazy. I have already purchased just about all the sheet metal you did, for the repairs you did. I have one more major part and that would be the left full rear 1/4 panel. I had a little problem following the title numbers on your videos. I think I found most of them but it seems you stopped doing the videos for the restoration. I saw the introduction video and then the videos where everything went to hell. I am sorry to say I'm in the same boat. The only exterior panels I'm not going to be cutting off are the roof and the lower firewall. I also have bought door skins in case I can't salvage the bottom of the doors. Did you make any videos installing the trunk floor, the cabin floor, and the areas at the bottom of the "A" pillars where the floor, kick panels, rocker panels and lower cowl panels come together and are all tied together. I couldn't find any other videos on completing the car. I thought maybe the cost of doing the work on the car any further had an effect financially on the owners of the car and the project may have been put on the back burner Again I enjoyed your videos and helping me understand what I; 've gotten myself into. The big question for me right now is, "Where to start". I started at the front. I've got the radiator core support done, the hood is repaired, and the fenders are off but need patch panels. A lot of work has to be done around the upper cowl to windshield transition and the side cowls that lead down to the problem area at the bottom of the "A" pillars. I think this is where I'm going to continue, I'll get the front half of the car solid including the complete floor and rockers, I'm not sure about the rockers, I haven't gotten in there yet. Then I'll move on to the rear of the car which you have shown in detail with your videos. It looks like I'll be doing the same thing, rear quarters, inside and outside wheel-houses, trunk floor and drops, rear deck extension, rear package tray, and extension, and rear tail panel. Again, thank you for posting your videos. As I watch your videos, I take notes of what to do and what not to do. Between you and "DEBOSS GARAGE, who also did a 67 restoration, hopefully, I'll get mine done. If I had known what I know now, I probably wouldn't have started it or even bought the car. Take care, and let me know what the status is on the 67 and if you have any more videos on the 67 GTO restoration, especially the bottoms of the "A" pillars.

@@davidcrocker8356 I've made a lot more videos of this restoration and will hopefully be posting more soon. Its been very busy in the shop this spring, so I haven't been able to get the latest videos up as quickly as I'd like. Stay tuned for a lot more. As for your car, you need to start with a good foundation, but if your floors and rockers are as bad as this car was, you'll need to tackle it the way I did this car because you'll have nothing good to weld your new floor to.

Honestly, I've had good and bad from AMD. This trunk floor was for a 66-67, and I believe there is a difference in the rear section between years. Their tooling may be a match for a '66, and not exact for '67. Either way, I was glad the original pan had a good rear section

The length was correct, just not the profile. It may be correct for a '66 and not for a '67.

Yes, and the aftermarket will not make one for the '67 since its a 1 year only part. The suppliers need to put clarification on the need to modify for a 67 in their part description. It would make estimating costs for the repair much easier.

Thank You !!

Not all original Mustangs are as bad as this one was. I just picked up a '69 390 Grande Coupe for a customer, and the car will need very little rust repair. All cars will rust badly if they're driven in the rustbelt. Road salt and liquid de-icer are brutal on metal, no matter what car it is.

Yes, if they are available, they can save a lot of money.

Hopefully, your tray won't be as bad as this one, but thankfully it was a relatively easy repair.

This car has a 400 with a 4 speed Muncie, though not its original setup.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 Cool that was a good motor yeah I got this 455 a couple years ago it’s dismantled right now so I could move it around easier it’s in my shed right now I was hoping to build it to put it in my Firebird but I don’t know if I’ll get a chance to so I thought I’d start may be looking for a home for it with somebody with a Pontiac project good luck with your build later bye

The trunk floor was specifically for a GTO, LeMans, or Tempest. Every GM "A" body had the same trunk floor, where they differed was the section I had to remove. The shape was correct, it was the side profile that was not. I made sure that I purchased the floor from a Pontiac only distributor. The part # was for this car.

That's why I always tell my customers, "It's great that they make these parts now, but they don't fit that well."

I'm from NJ and moved here in 2001. The rust out here is just as bad if not worse. NJ has road salt and salt air that causes most of the rust issues. Out here they use a liquid brine and salt on the roads. The brine is like battery acid. I've seen truck frames break in half in less than 10 years out here.

Thank You. Stay tuned and see how this GTO comes out.

Thank You!

Yep, they're all great to bring back better than new, especially when they've lead as hard a life as this one.

Yes, I agree. I'm working on getting a wireless mic and camera setup. I've just been too busy in the shop to schedule the videos

I've done enough 1st generation Mustangs to know what needs to be. There are some situations where there's nothing left to go by, that's when I refer back to the pictures I took of previous cars. If I'm lucky, I'll find a picture of what I need to duplicate. If not, then I use my background as a Toolmaker to engineer what needs to be done.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 nice...when i get my mustang I know who to hire for a rebuild. 👍🏼

Dimensionally, the rocker was too big overall. I was able to fit it by moving it forward and down slightly. Not correct by factory measurements, but it did work. The seat belt anchor nut was the bigger issue. If people don't pay attention to its location, they will have issues bolting the belt in correctly. Thank you for your question

You can Google " cleco kit". There are a number of suppliers. Just be sure to buy the best quality you can find.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 thank you

If I recall, the gauge was an Autometer electric unit. You can go onto Summit Racing's website to see what they offer. I believe the gauge is 1.5" diameter. It fit in very nicely, but you will have to modify the plastic cluster housing.

@@midwestclassicscustoms1568 thank you for ur fast response! I will check that out.