Відео

You’re welcome!

So glad to hear it!

The magnet is the circular portion that’s at the end of the prong / post that I tried to level out at the 1:20 mark. The cup itself is just a magnetically attracted metal, like steel.

Happy to hear it helped!

I’m glad it helped you Eileen, we all had to start somewhere!

Cheers!

I found there was a lot of echo in the bathroom with the stone tiles, so I didn’t want to speak too loudly. Turn up the volume and / or turn on closed captioning and my words should be clear enough.

I’m not familiar with that door specifically, but every door I’ve ever looked at has some kind of solid core perimeter, otherwise it would be almost impossible to attach hinges or a lock set to it. If the door’s solid perimeter is especially narrow, I’d suggest marking up exactly where you need to place the magnetic cup first, but don’t attach it, and then work your way backwards to figure out where the wall mount needs to go. If all else fails, an expandable hollow wall core plug could probably be used on the door, but that would truly be a last resort.

@@jonBS4 I also have a cheap hollow door which luckily is open on the bottom. I made it work by doing the following so the screws had something solid to screw into! Mark the general the area where the catch will go and remove door. I fit a small (3" x 3") piece of scrap wood inside the hollow part where I had marked it. Needed a shim to make it fit better. Then I used wood glue to attach the shim to the wood, and the wood to the hollow opening of the door. Once dried, put the door back up and followed the video instructions for marking and installing the catch. Worked great! By the way, great video - I had the same problem with separating the 2 pieces of the catch!

@@lindam3497 It sounds like you figured out a good solution for your hollow door! I have never run across that kind of hollow door, let alone one that is open at the bottom.

If you verified the final position of the screws on the wall in regards to the tightened stopper, then you should be able to tighten the stopper against the wall in the correct orientation. If you’re not able to get the required leverage with bare hands, then I’d suggest using a pair of locking pliers to tighten it down, but use something between the pliers and the stopper so as not to mar the finish of the stopper. I’d recommend a towel or old shirt. Good luck!

@@jonBS4 Yeah I see your point thank you very much but the issue is I twist and twist and then the thing is just loose and it's basically stuck on the wall It's as if the screw or something is stripped and I can't even remove it very odd not sure what happened

@@irecruitfish7410 Sorry to hear that. Maybe the main bolt got cross threaded and that’s why it’s not loosening or tightening any further? If you think that’s the case, you could use a pry bar underneath the stopper and apply gentle pressure while trying to loosen it. That should allow you to remove it and replace it with a non damaged one.

@@jonBS4 yeah I can try that out...for now the loose ones function it just shakes quite a bit when it catches the door. Thanks for the responses. Helpful video overall!

Came here for the same exact reason. Would have been great to come with some basic instructions.

Me too smh

Hi Yacov, I’d first suggest checking the owner’s manual for your specific model unit on the Dynavin website. Here’s a link to mine: dynavin.com/images/PDF/n6_owners_manual.pdf As I recall, you need to go to System Settings > Time Zone. From there I believe it was just a case of offsetting the time adjustment in hours of where you are located compared to UTC (effectively a successor to Greenwich Mean Time). In Ontario, Canada that’s a UTC -05:00 adjustment.

You absolutely could cut the plastic, original head unit bracket, but you would still need to remove and / or loosen some of the dash panels to attach the new metal bracket and run the GPS antenna. At the time I did the install, I also wanted to save the original parts in case I wanted to go back to stock or sell the parts.

Karib H I guess that’s good then!

You made a clear and understandable video with good instructions for the installation. Thank you for the time you put in! What i meant before is" i dont have good knowledge about cars electricity, thats why im a bit afraid to do this"

Karib H thanks for clarifying your comment! I didn’t have any prior experience doing this before either, so it’s not particularly challenging, it just takes a bit of patience. I tried to show as many of the steps as possible as I hadn’t found any how-to videos when I was doing it.

At 11:55 in my video I mention connecting the CANBUS / IBUS interface box into the Dynavin harness and that's how the steering wheel controls are connected to the head unit.

@@jonBS4 Hi friend. if I understand I saw the whole video until the end. But still, I can't get the steering wheel controls to work. Their Light turns on, but they don't respond. Also another thing that I noticed is that with the canbus connected I can't use the winks and I get high light on. Can you help me with this?

@@horacioparis5400 I’m not sure which light you’re referring to. I don’t recall any lights on the CANBUS. Your original comment was from 3 years ago, was it working properly before now? Are you using the exact same Dynavin N6 unit?

alcanhg no, the radio stations don't automatically broadcast that through this head unit. I chose to make radio station icons for my presets.