Відео

Thanx man found the Problem m replacing tomorrow 👍👍👍 Exactly the same Problem 🤓

Bien echo carnal...gracias..

I have the same problem with same code on Honda Odyssey 2001. Sgould I just replace the( IAC) Idle Air Control Valve? Is it easy to replace or need special tools?

yaris vitz 2002 code p05050 solution

Hey i have a question whats the normal idle on the odyssey 2001 ?

Thank you! I don't even have a Corolla, I just came to hear the music. Just kidding, but I do like it!

If they where my neighbors , i would of smothered them with a pillow in there sleep

excellent presentation i thought that was my problem but found out it was my THROTTLE POSITION SENCOR.! I change it having no code and now it runs like NEW!!

Had a bitch of a time removing it. Went to the hardware store with the new hub and got bolt(s) only used one (10mm fine thread) and put it where the old bolt went, struck it with a one-handed sledge and sure enough it came out. Then I did a victory yell

Thanks man appreciate the video. It just confirms my suspicion. I have a 99 acura tl with a 3.2 v6. Same issue idle is totally off. fluctuates between 1500 and 2500. i put the rag in throttle body idle is perfect again. Not going to bother to clean iac valve. online its $85. will take less then an hour to put in. Thanks again

I read many comments on why I didnt record the difficult part of removing the hub. Sorry but it might be because I live in California and suspension components are not really rusty. With a few taps of a hammer it just popped of. Now the wheel bearing and hub is one assembly no need to press in or out. Alright bye.

I just did this job today on my wifes 2004 corolla. As others have stated, it is much harder than you might expect because the bearing is all rusted to the torsion beam and to the back plate. I would like to share my technique so that others might have a slightly easier time. First off, I used WD40 since I didn't have PB Blaster. Lots of people swear by PB Blaster so maybe give it a try. I plan to next time. The WD40 didn't seem to do much. After smacking the crap out of the bearing with a big heavy hammer and punch, it eventually popped out of the torsion beam, but was still stuck to the backplate like a pig on a fresh bucket of slop. At that point you can't just bash it any more because now there is nothing to hold the backplate in place. I managed to do it without removing the brake shoes or springs. Here's how: I took a long piece of lumber and butted it up against my garage wall on one end, and against the wheel cylinder on the other end. I took a second piece of lumber and similarly butted it against the garage wall on one end, and on the other end, I butted it against the two studs that the bottoms of the brake shoes seat against (not sure if those have a proper name). Now you're thinking, that's a lot of butting, this guy is butt-happy. Well it worked so don't judge me. Those pieces of lumber kept the backplate in place while I proceeded to smack more crap out of the bearing as before until it busted loose from the backplate. At that point I was so happy I jumped up and said "yeah bitch, you just got knocked the F*** out!!!". I highly recommend saying that; it feels great. Then take that old bearing into a field and put some more hurt on it, office space style (gangsta rap sold separately)

Thanks for the torque spec!

Get someone else to hold the camera.

Dude, next time tell your neighbors to turn their fucking music off...

THANK YOU! I have this problem, and was thinking I might have to take it in to get a new gasket on the intake. But this might be the problem.(fingers crossed)

Hey TheeMovieCritic88> I have a 2005 camry that had some vibrating noise when driving. I jacked the car up and I observed the Rear Right trailing arm is bent a little. I did replaced all 4 strut assembly along wit sway link. The noise still there and it's very annoying. It sound like a helicopter noise. Please scott send me some insight. Ps.can bushing do that?.

If you like bad music in the background go ahead and watch.

I have the same car, I shall try!! Thanks bro, you didn't really show the process, but I mean come on, you have to be an idiot to not know how to remove four bolts.

I don't like where the video begins, you show the easy part. You need to show the struggle and best way to remove the hub without damaging it and separating the old bearing.

rael easy to do once you have sweated swore and cused while trying to get the old bearing assembly out ..... I ended up having to use heat, long metal bar and large hammer to bash old bearing assembly out !!! Real bitch of a job to remove

1:27 ow rev it and suck up the rag!! great for ur iac

I have the same issue now. did the check engine light go away after you changed the IAC on your odyssey?

I think I'd want to throw the old bearing assembly at your wonderful neighbours !

Why did your video start after the extremely hard part of prying the bearing assembly out of the brake sheild?? The only way I got it out was to take the brake off and pry out the bearing assembly with chisels and screwdrivers. Putting together was a breeze like your video shows. Misleading video for sure.

get a camera stand... unwatchable

Gracias mucho

I cleaned now a "new" IACV and it's better...now the rising of throttle is about 300rpm and it was 1500+. But still that's not a good engine!

I have the same problem! I replaced IACV with some used one and still have the same problem. Maybie the "new" one is faulty too...

Gracias amigo, me acabas de ahorrar $85.00!!

How much did you spend? And how much do you recommend I pay a Mechanic to replace mine? '00 Civic.

you should try cleaning it first (actually take it off and clean the inside). It worked for me.

Great video! Thank you!

I damaged mine by cleaning it with some cleaner. I just bought a new one, the idle air control valve.

dude thats your throttle body, on the back is the idle air control valve

@thatguy3139 im not too familiar with dodge but if its 96 or newer it would most likely give you a code that indicates that it is running poorly. Idle valves have coolant lines to control the idle (i.e. cold would be a bit higher idle, warm would be smoother idle) so i have seen where low coolant or air in the coolant system causes a surging idle. Hope that helps,

@thatguy3139 control

My dodge neon does this, is it the idle air vontrol valve?

@6439331 These are newer models that don't have a fast idle valve. The IACV is all it has and I replaced it and problem solved.

It's your Fast Idle Control Valve aka FICV... Just clean that piece with carb cleaner and give it a good clean up..... it should take that problem away... Good luck