Відео

You can do that on anything but settings might be different.🤝

What's the point of protection then? The idea of securing a microcontroller is to safeguard its firmware and intellectual property. While techniques like voltage glitching, clock glitching, or even destructive methods like chip decapping exist to bypass protections, they require expensive tools, specialized skills, and are often illegal or unethical. Personally, I’m not a fan of these approaches. As an engineer, I believe in creating and innovating rather than breaking into old designs. If I ever lose access to something I built, I see it as an opportunity to rebuild a better version from scratch, turning it into a chance to improve on the original idea. Thanks for your feedback! I truly appreciate your curiosity. Best regards, Aneesh Murali Nariyampully From Ciiads (Curiosity, Idea, Imagination, and Designs)

Yes, it will work great! You need to ensure that the disk floats on top of the water at all times. It’s best to use pure water, such as distilled water, to extend the lifespan of the disk. Contaminated water may block the micro-holes on the disk or scratch its surface, potentially enlarging the holes or blocking the disk. Either way, it’s bad and will ultimately damage the disk. There is no degradation in fogging performance when the disk floats directly on the water, as this allows for direct contact without a filter. In fact, this setup improves the mist output. However, the only drawback is that the disk may wear out faster if the water quality is poor. If spraying water is safe, then the mist is also safe. It’s simply tiny water particles, similar to those found near waterfalls. Thank you for your feedback! Please consider subscribing to the channel if you’d like to see more content from me. Best regards, Aneesh Murali Nariyampully From Ciiads (Curiosity, Idea, Imagination, And Designs)

I don't know what's the full potential of the disk cause I don't have any other drivers to test the disk that's why I made one my own and shared here for the others. Regards, Aneesh Murali Nariyampully ☺️👊

That's fantastic! I'm so happy to hear that the tutorial was helpful.

According to power supply

Thanks for your feedback, I appreciate your findings ☺️ 👍. Fools will always expose relay but I'm not, read the title it's a quick demo, the purpose of this video is to make an idea about how it works but not it's final version. The mechanism and construction of the lock is also plays a major role, what if the magnetic field can't reach the relay. what if the final version is made out of mosfets. I'm not spoiling what's next, I'm working on it , see you soon 😊🤝 Regards, Aneesh Murali Nariyampully.

Thanks for the question! Currently, the device has several security measures in place to prevent unauthorized access and spoofing attempts: You need to know the 14-character-wide strong password, it's a mix of lowercase and uppercase letters, numbers, special characters, plus command, plus pair key, plus timing to crack, and there will be no trace because it doesn't have any reset option or override settings. It’s hardcoded in the firmware, not EEPROM or storage, and the password choice is yours to set when you compile the code, so each firmware is different, and the key is also different. The user is the only person who knows what exactly who was did, and the chip is also firmware-protection enabled. But if your phone is stolen, they may be able to unlock it with your phone if your phone doesn't have any security. but they can't see what the password is. If you're interested, give it a try to crack and let me know how you cracked it, then we can close the back door, if there is any. We can also implement AES + salt, but right now, it's a very minimal and strong, cost-effective solution with a beautifully designed user-friendly app with a strong password-matching method. Appreciate your support and suggestions Thank you. Aneesh Murali Nariyampully

@@Ciiads sounds good!

Thank you 😊🤝

Thank you so much for your kind words. Knowing that the video made a difference for you means more than I can express. It’s messages like yours that inspire me to keep creating and sharing. So grateful to have been a part of your learning journey!

Sorry, I can't recall, but I'm sure it wasn't that much.🤝😊

@@HidayatAwan-q2i No

Ok,thanks,please share circuit diagram

Diagram of what?, you mean the one in the video, check discription.

Ok,but i need a 5v dc circuit

Sir,please give me advice on how to make a 5v dc water fogger circuit?

Yes, you need to change cottons , I just used normal cotton but a special type of cotton filter stick refills available for the humidifiers. You can program the time intervals according to your preferences. 🤝😊

Yes it will definitely work when the frequency and power matches with its spec.🤝👍

@@Ciiads Awesome. if you try please post. Thank you kindly

Yes it does and works for every MCU's but settings might different😊👊

Realy, I tried here but without success, and also can't find any information about codes for pro mini anywhere... I think the quickest way is to break the RX / TX pins. 😅 Thank you for the answer 👊

@@chiptekelectronicsreading and writing firmware through rx tx pin works through bootloader but we can also pull the firmware through miso mosi cs sck pins so breaking the pins not the quickest way, flash the chip with proper settings and at the same time without bootloader that's the way to go. 😊👊 You have to read the chip datasheet to find the lock bit settings and you have to read the chip first with my method to see the current fuse bit settings of your promini, so copy the current fuse bit settings and for the lockbits read datasheet, if your promini had the same chip atmega328p or atmega328 then you can keep the same lockbit settings as shown in the video and remember you have to apply the same fuse bit configuration that the promini already had. otherwise the chip will break.

@@Ciiads Got it. I was using an FTDI adapter, but I have to use another Arduino to access the ISP protocol, right? Thank you very much for your attention, brother! Regards from Shizuoka, Japan.

Another Arduino or programmer 😊👊🤝

Good for you. After all those years they still didn't fixed the glitch I don't know could you please make a tutorial about that and share the link for the audiance 😊.

@@Ciiads I not have time to make tutorials, it is very simple to use the voltage glitch, there are tons of descriptions on the github

@@alternative01-pd3iu the same way yes.

@@mohitraj5804 what you mean hacks?, it's not a hack it's a protection feature. if the chip is locked then it's locked. There is no way to pull the code out as per my view. if someone willing to do I would appreciate them. 😊

Keep the water level low over the piezo disk, waterproof the wiring side of the disk, arrange the disk like the way with was implemented in humidifier.

It's difficult to answer because I can't see what's going on.

Yes but fuse configuration is different

Check the schematics I attached 😊

@@Ciiads i connect 24v then the trans it very hot and die

Is your piezo rated 24 volt? Don't over volt the piezo, use heatsink for the transistor, use thick wires and track for wiring the circuit, use high current inductor or make one your self with thick copper wire.

What's wrong?

can I talk to you in some other way sir

Do you have an insta channel?

Probably not, if you wanna run the capsule that you found on the HC-SR04 module go with ne555 chip and make an oscillator for that specific frequency and use a MOSFET to switch the output signal and add an inductor in the switching path to smooth and filter out the signal that's it🙂♥️.

What you mean?

the piezo disk itself is the oscillating component it's in the feedback path and I never tested 10 MHz piezo but this circuit will handle up to 2.4mhz, For anything beyond that we have to tweak the supporting components as well, I recommend designing something with Colpitts oscillator is the way to go in my opinion. 😊🤗

No worries ☺️, At the heart of the device is a piezoelectric transducer that vibrates at ultrasonic frequencies (like 1.77 MHz). When electrical energy is applied, the transducer vibrates at high frequencies. These vibrations create pressure waves in the water, breaking it into very fine droplets that form the mist. The process doesn’t involve heating, so the mist is usually cool and not hot enough to burn you. However, the transducer may get warm during operation. The mist produced is generally safe to inhale in moderate amounts, but it’s not intended for direct consumption. However, it consists of tiny droplets of water suspended in the air.🤗♥️👍. I hope this clears things up and adds a bit of insight to your day! Thanks so much for your question.

Thanks so much for the kind words! I'm really glad you found the video helpful and it means a lot to me!🤗♥️

Thank you 🤗♥️

It's not 113khz disc it is 1.77mhz bro😊 I bought that from robu.in, and you can always get 108khz disk with driver circuit for very cheap price from there.

@@Ciiads bro i had the driver but the disc was damaged so i want separated disc 113khz or 108 khz any think is fine

Sorry to hear that, you have to look around online shopping websites like aliexpress

Thanks 🤗

@@raulerice7707 👍🤗♥️

Could you please clarify?

Can one erase a program in a locked atmega, and rewrite another one?

@@nwaigbo3 do you mean, it's possible to re-program the chip after chip erase then the answer is yes.

You are welcome 🤗

And L.220uh...

@@fauzanhariz9589 that's entirely different than mine 🧐.

@@Ciiads 😅 aah...different a bit bro

@@Ciiads hi bro, would you please share me your email? I want to send some pics of my work, doest work, need your help to check what am I missing about..

I didn't tried cause I don't have one but we will😊

I think it's not getting the obb file. I think consider and cleanup and reinstall everything.

​@@Ciiads I've reinstalled, wiped out everything like a clean slate several times. The .obb file is in the folder. The file's name matches the game's intended .obb folder name. But the same message appears. What might be happening is that I'm unable to access the game's older .obb versions due to the fact that Google Play Services disallows such activity from my country. So, I've turned off these services, but then it can't install completely without said services. So there's probably nothing I can do regardless, except install a VPN maybe. But the cost of a subscription and the uncertainty of it working on an emulator holds me back from doing so. Anyways, there's probably nothing I can do.

@@noahthegosling omfg Im trying to do the EXACT same thing as you are doing, im trying to get pvz2 but im also getting the same error. Hopefully we can get a solution soon. cheers mate🍻

Can anyone share the link to my email, I'm very curious about it let me check, that's very interesting 😊

I think something wrong with the apk, download new one and try again.

Cheers 🍻

I can't understand your comment though. Could you please clarify?

@@Ciiads The outlet of the piezo disc should face upwards. Water vapor must also rise upwards. The orientation of your piezo disc is sideways. For this reason, the amount of steam output is not fully understood. But when you dropped a few drops of water by hand, very little steam came out. This means the steam output performance is poor. Your opinions are important. What is your suggestion to increase steam output?

You’re right, the piezo disc was placed vertically in the demo because we currently don't have a proper mechanism to mount it horizontally. This particular 1.77MHz ceramic piezo disc is solid and doesn’t have the tiny holes in the center like some other types. I want to clarify that I'm not hiding anything, what you see in the video is the exact output of this circuit at 12 Volts DC. If you find the steam output to be poor, that's an accurate reflection of the current setup. If you're looking to get more power, I recommend experimenting with over-volting the circuit within the piezo disk's safe operating limits, using thick tracks, and short, thick wires. Additionally, some viewers have modified this circuit with IGBTs to improve performance. You can find one such comment further down where they explained their modifications and component values, though they forgot to mention the IGBT part number. You can also see others' opinions from those who successfully built the circuit. Thank you for your suggestions! If you have more tips or insights, please share them. We're always looking to improve! We can make a better version soon.

@@Ciiads Thank you for your answers. In the country I live in, there is only a 1.7 MHz ceramic piezo. This must be the circuit I had to make. According to my research, only you have made this circuit. That's why I have to make this circuit in the best way possible. I need to adjust it to have good steam efficiency. thank you.

@@Throtmanni wish you all the best , good luck.

@@fauzanhariz9589 no it's not but you can try that with ne555 chip.😊👍

So chip erase then flash the without bootloader version of the hex file with the new fuse and lock bit settings. that's exactly what we did here 👍

i saw that you flashed all the 6 lock bits . BLB01 BLB11 BLB02BLB12 are 4 lock bits that are responsible to lock the bootloader . Since you have the hex file without the bootloader then why you are still programming those lock bits ? I think LB1 and LB2 are enough to program if you have a hex file without a bootloader on it .

@@Email-wg8je just closing all the doors as we can👍😁

Of course

Static noise are common in every microphone and it's there. When it's getting too loud then there is a problem maybe somewhere in the cabling or connector based issues. You can use audacity to clean up the audio or use ai based tools like rtx voice or atleast you can turn on noise reduction in the audio control panel of your personal computer. Check out my mic building video there I explained some of the audio recording tips and I made that mic for just around $1.77 and which sounds great with my recording tips.