It unscrews. Technically you don’t have to remove the vane but I did to get enough leverage on my 12 y.o. vane. When I did get the cap off a tbs of water spilled out. Methinks this may be part of my problem.
Peter: Thanks for sharing. I can leave you a link on my Westerbeke Heat Exchanger for my generator in which I built a Barnacle Buster type kit to flush my heat exchanger. ( ua-cam.com/video/6afbQp_Fu1g/v-deo.htmlsi=1eo_SltF6f17OtZK ) Worked great. And then I did the same on my brother's sailboat and cleaned a heat exchanger on a 2002 Beneteau 362. (Here's the work on his sailboat: ua-cam.com/video/zIYv_p79lyc/v-deo.htmlsi=Fsi-Mfop7n3tASyN ) What I would like to know is what you found on why the zincs would break off. I only buy OEM Westerbeke zincs and change them out about every 6 months. When I bought the new to me boat in Dec 22, I found that the previous owner had never done maintenance and on the 4 year old boat, the sacrificial anode was completely gone. As I come up on 2 years, I find that I have about 50% of a zinc since intact when I change it out but would like to know what you determined to be your failure as I help my brother on his boat and do the maintenance on mine. Thanks!
Fantastic video! I have the same problem. But I can't find the MLX91204KDC-ABA-002 anywhere. It seems to be discontinued. Can you suggest a currently-available replacement? I've looked at a lot of similar chips, but there are at least 6 from the same chip maker with slightly different specs. Thanks so much!
Hi, it's been years since I did that, and sold the boat a couple years ago. I don't have any recent knowledge about the ICs avail. But I would think if you emailed Melexis and asked them they would probably have an updated part avail through distribution. I do recall buying 2 of the chips figuring I might as well buy 2 if I screw it up. LMK if you strike out and I'll look through my parts.
@@peterowens4770 - Thanks, I thought you might be a real electronics nerd and could just look up the current equivalent. :-) But your idea of emailing Melexis is great - I'll do that!
The chip you recommended does not appear to be carried by company any more. There are similar chips with different model numbers. Don’t know enough to order one that I know is correct replacement.
I had the same problem and figured it out from a buddy of mine. Set the drive configuration to around 50% on the low and high. Then work from there. It resolved mine around 65%. Hope this helps like it did mine.
Yeah I think you're right. I can't mount a SmartStick to Uflex cylinder but I bought an RF25N and will machine a bracket to mount it. The VRF is terrible and I've got a $1000 Garmin Sat compass with extremely accurate rate of turn info. Just a bad product from Simrad.
@@peterowens4770 Ah right, i thought you had a SeaStar cylinder. Hopefully the RF25N fixes the issue. Im just about to have my Simrad AP installed. I have a NAC2/Pump2/P9 compass with the VR44 controller head but am also putting on a SmartStick. I'll keep you updated with my results, hopefully i don't have the same issues.
Thanks for the video! First my wind direction wasn’t working. Then my speed went out as well. Several days later I discovered your video and checked my voltages. Seemed to be in line with yours . I checked the display and both were working. I’m now assuming I have a bad connection either at the display (gonna install new bayonet connectors) or at the mast head itself. I think the masthead shouldn’t be bad as when I installed it a year and a half ago I put dielectric grease on the pins and made sure it was properly tightened. I hate intermittent problems! LOL. P.S. I’m in Sarasota Florida and during the last hurricane winds speed reached 106mph.
Hello I need to repair my wind vane also I have the proper voltage out of the unit But not returning from the vane Wind speed also quit should I just replace the whole board I can replace the Hall effect chip but I don’t know the chip that controls the wind speed. Do you happen to know what that is?
Hi Mike, I'm not sure I did not replace the wind speed hall effect sensor. You could disassemble and check the IC for any part number details. No guarantees it will work or if it is something else. I think you can find the circuit board in England or maybe on the Bay when I last looked.
Thanks for the video. We have lost wind speed although retain wind direction. Regarding the chip you replaced - does that correspond to IC4 in the instruction manual - which says "Do NOT attempt to replace or otherwise disturb IC4"?
Not sure. There are 2 hall sensors, the wind speed sensor is on the bottom of the PCB. Its not the same IC as the one I listed as the part number. You'd have to disassemble and verify. If the board is broken I don't see why you wouldn't at least attempt a repair if you're confident in your soldering abilities. Cant hurt.
how do you open the housing ?
It unscrews. Technically you don’t have to remove the vane but I did to get enough leverage on my 12 y.o. vane. When I did get the cap off a tbs of water spilled out. Methinks this may be part of my problem.
Thanks for your answer mine is really stuck and would like to know it unscrews before I use tools
Peter: Thanks for sharing. I can leave you a link on my Westerbeke Heat Exchanger for my generator in which I built a Barnacle Buster type kit to flush my heat exchanger. ( ua-cam.com/video/6afbQp_Fu1g/v-deo.htmlsi=1eo_SltF6f17OtZK ) Worked great. And then I did the same on my brother's sailboat and cleaned a heat exchanger on a 2002 Beneteau 362. (Here's the work on his sailboat: ua-cam.com/video/zIYv_p79lyc/v-deo.htmlsi=Fsi-Mfop7n3tASyN ) What I would like to know is what you found on why the zincs would break off. I only buy OEM Westerbeke zincs and change them out about every 6 months. When I bought the new to me boat in Dec 22, I found that the previous owner had never done maintenance and on the 4 year old boat, the sacrificial anode was completely gone. As I come up on 2 years, I find that I have about 50% of a zinc since intact when I change it out but would like to know what you determined to be your failure as I help my brother on his boat and do the maintenance on mine. Thanks!
Did you change your lines around to fix it?
Ciao se volessi comprare la schedina, sai dove potrei trovarla? Grazie
Fantastic video! I have the same problem. But I can't find the MLX91204KDC-ABA-002 anywhere. It seems to be discontinued. Can you suggest a currently-available replacement? I've looked at a lot of similar chips, but there are at least 6 from the same chip maker with slightly different specs. Thanks so much!
Hi, it's been years since I did that, and sold the boat a couple years ago. I don't have any recent knowledge about the ICs avail. But I would think if you emailed Melexis and asked them they would probably have an updated part avail through distribution. I do recall buying 2 of the chips figuring I might as well buy 2 if I screw it up. LMK if you strike out and I'll look through my parts.
@@peterowens4770 - Thanks, I thought you might be a real electronics nerd and could just look up the current equivalent. :-) But your idea of emailing Melexis is great - I'll do that!
Only the problem not the solution
The chip you recommended does not appear to be carried by company any more. There are similar chips with different model numbers. Don’t know enough to order one that I know is correct replacement.
I had the same problem and figured it out from a buddy of mine. Set the drive configuration to around 50% on the low and high. Then work from there. It resolved mine around 65%. Hope this helps like it did mine.
Looks like that IC is no longer manufactured and I haven't found a direct replacement yet. Any thoughts?
Add a SeaStar Smart Stick and im betting these issues will go away? It appears the unit is not picking up the engine/rudder position correctly.
Yeah I think you're right. I can't mount a SmartStick to Uflex cylinder but I bought an RF25N and will machine a bracket to mount it. The VRF is terrible and I've got a $1000 Garmin Sat compass with extremely accurate rate of turn info. Just a bad product from Simrad.
@@peterowens4770 Ah right, i thought you had a SeaStar cylinder. Hopefully the RF25N fixes the issue. Im just about to have my Simrad AP installed. I have a NAC2/Pump2/P9 compass with the VR44 controller head but am also putting on a SmartStick. I'll keep you updated with my results, hopefully i don't have the same issues.
My nac2 with precision 9 compass does the same thing. Completely annoyed with it myself.
Thanks for the video! First my wind direction wasn’t working. Then my speed went out as well. Several days later I discovered your video and checked my voltages. Seemed to be in line with yours . I checked the display and both were working. I’m now assuming I have a bad connection either at the display (gonna install new bayonet connectors) or at the mast head itself. I think the masthead shouldn’t be bad as when I installed it a year and a half ago I put dielectric grease on the pins and made sure it was properly tightened. I hate intermittent problems! LOL. P.S. I’m in Sarasota Florida and during the last hurricane winds speed reached 106mph.
Great video. Can you diagnose and repair my 1) Raymarine masthead with wind speed not working and 2) Boat speed I50 where screen has failed
Very helpful, thanks
Awesome video and thank you
Hello I need to repair my wind vane also I have the proper voltage out of the unit But not returning from the vane Wind speed also quit should I just replace the whole board I can replace the Hall effect chip but I don’t know the chip that controls the wind speed. Do you happen to know what that is?
Hi Mike, I'm not sure I did not replace the wind speed hall effect sensor. You could disassemble and check the IC for any part number details. No guarantees it will work or if it is something else. I think you can find the circuit board in England or maybe on the Bay when I last looked.
Thanks for sharing Peter. I'm getting ready to open up mine on a Westerbeke 21.
beautiful intro. was that cape elizabeth?
Thanks for the video. We have lost wind speed although retain wind direction. Regarding the chip you replaced - does that correspond to IC4 in the instruction manual - which says "Do NOT attempt to replace or otherwise disturb IC4"?
Not sure. There are 2 hall sensors, the wind speed sensor is on the bottom of the PCB. Its not the same IC as the one I listed as the part number. You'd have to disassemble and verify. If the board is broken I don't see why you wouldn't at least attempt a repair if you're confident in your soldering abilities. Cant hurt.
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