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Most of my traps are Dukes, as they are pretty much the only brand available near me and are cheap. But they are as thin and flimsy as you can make a trap, should have invested in Bridgers at least.

After welding a flat base plate with D- ring they're properly stiffened up and after adjusting the dog and pan they're decent And at least one crunch proof swivel. The swivel is the best practical advice I've ever gotten from experienced trappers. And anchoring any trap as if you anticipate godzilla stepping in it. Always.

Thanks for the like, I appreciate it!

I beleive it is a Hickory handle, as that is the standard wood for handles in the US, but yes it did split later on when I tried to split a piece of wood, hit the edge with the bit, and the wood didn't split entirely and the handle hit the wood.

Thanks

A number 2 is typically a canine trap (foxes, coyotes), and it could also be used for bobcats and lynx. However my most likely target will be coyotes or foxes.

Thanks so much for reviewing this trap. I’m going to buy a dozen. They will be laminated though.

Glad my video was helpful, good luck and tight chains!

Thanks for the compliment!

Thanks, my dad told me about that technique.

To funny

You're welcome, glad I could help.

Thanks, I appreciate it, and you're certainly right.

Thanks, glad you appreciated the video.

To wax and dye them. If the traps are rusty, they take the dye much better.

@@AmericanOutdoorLiving okay sounds great, have fun dying your traps

Every faller (the one who gets the trees on th ground) needs one because every faller needs an axe to pound felling wedges to keep the tree from pinching on the bar on the back cut, and/or to pound wedges to get the tree to actually tip over.

Grizzly Peak Enterprises

@@AmericanOutdoorLiving thank you, I'll check that out!

Glad you appreciated the video!

I have a Duke #11 and it is pretty flimsy, the Bridger #1 long springs I've seen in stores do look sturdier as you've pointed out. I do also have a vintage Blake & Lamb #1 longspring where the spring is about twice as strong a a new Duke. They don't make 'em like they used to I guess.

A new Duke especially I would buy helper springs to put on them to make them stronger or any old trap that has weakened a bit to.

Thanks for the tip.

It is definitely a good axe, steel seems pretty good and even before I reprofiled it it seemed to chop well.

The fizz, a term I heard first from Cody. Great axe that.

That's a good idea, I haven't thought of that.

Not too long ago people often braced wooden constructions by tightly wrapping it in steel sheets or wire.

That's interesting, I never knew that.

Nice

It certainly would be, I'm not sure if I have any if that material, but I'll have to check the shop.

Have you ever used these "shameful contraptions", or have you only watched CNN. I'm assuming you haven't used them, so then how would you know that they inhumane? You don't, you just form your options off of emotion, not experience.

Yea, plastic is the most common material for felling wedges, with aluminum ones also, typically splitting wedges are steel though, with a few newer ones being aluminum.

Thanks! I would love to get a Maine Wedge or Wedge, it would certainly be an interesting pattern to try out.

😂

I know, I've just never seen a weight limit for tanks crossing a bridge in my life.

The IRS will always find you...

If I'm using my fingers to check sharpness, I never go along the blade, always perpendicular to it and rub it across ever so lightly, another good way to check is to put it in a vise and pull a piece of paper across the blade, and if it is really sharp you can hold the paper in one hand, axe in the other, and shave off the corner of the paper.

I'm glad you found the video helpful, and the Wolf Creek was definitely beefier, but one thing to note is that the springs on this Wolf Creek were a little weaker than the springs on the Duke, before and after one season of being set, not sure how important that is, but just thought I would let you know.

I understand that this method does not work for bigger animals, however this is a #1 coilspring, the biggest thing you catch in it is a coon, which is why I center swiveled it, so it will be harder for them to pull out, and I doubt a coon will break this trap.

I center swiveled my Duke #1 coils for coons, and I could (maybe should) double jaw them as well, but these are not intended for coyotes, so I don't need 550s or 650s for this purpose, but I could see myself getting some in the future, as they are well made traps, both the 550s and 650s from Duke or MB.

Thanks for the complement! It means a lot comimg from some one who has so much experience.

@jackriley5974 Did I set it incorrectly? I think not. I did not name the parts incorrectly either. I know there are other ways to set a coilspring trap, but I always find stepping on the levers to be the easiest.

@@AmericanOutdoorLiving Lincoln (you know, the 16th president) was wrongly credited with the quote " It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak out and remove all doubt"! END of conversation!!

So you can't tell me what I auctually did wrong?

I’ve caught a coyote in a duke 1.5 cs set at a pocket set for coon

If you want to test pan tension, you need to have it set, as when it is set, the jaws push on the dog, which pushes on the pan, and because the dog is held up against the pan, there is a lot of friction so it is harder to move the pan, and as a result, the pan tension when it is set is higher.