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Hi Piet, I'm glad my videos have been helpful to you. I do have some wiring diagrams for the MyPlasm table, so if you send me an email (rmhyde58@gmail.com) I will send them to you.

Hey Luke, the MyPlasm software has options for 'project position', but the locations are already preset.....I don't believe I can set my own start point. Having said that, it's something I will check, though.

Hi Chris, it's a table I built myself. If you stroll down my list of videos on my channel, you'll find the 6 part video series I made of the table build.

Hey Kris, thanks for your kind words. I'm aware of the Hypertherm consumables being interchangeable with my Thermacut machine torch, but no, I haven't looked too closely at the sync nozzles. I'll have to compare pricing.

Hey Jake, thankyou for your kind words. The clamps I used to mount the machine torch to the Z axis are called Stauff clamps....you can find them at hydraulic hose suppliers or search for them online. I bought 32mm diameter clamps and they fitted the machine torch perfectly.

Hey Lionel, is there something you do differently to me, that makes yours easier/better than the way I do it....if so, I'm happy to hear about it, thanks.

Hey Daniel, thanks for that. There's a couple of things I'd do differently next time, namely changing the border cuts to start at 90degrees to give it a slight lead in and eliminate the 'circular' pierce point on the open lines.

Man you just taught me a few things too. Thanks! I had no idea I could type in the coordinate.

@yoti-fab cheers mate

Hey Jeff, I've tried changing the coordinates by entering different values in the 'torch position' Y value but nothing happens...I guess I'm doing something wrong.

Thanks Ross, hope everything is good with you.

Hi Darren, I replied to your email....hope it didn't end up in your Spam folder. The kits are $285 plus postage.

Hey Wade, hello from Western Australia. I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Cheers for that. It was something different and a great opportunity to work with local government....I'm hoping there will be more in the future.

Hi Imelda, I bought the file online....just search '3d dinosaur plasma cutting' in Etsy.

It does get a little bit of dirt/dust around the seams, which I clean off. Opening it up will tell me how much gets inside, which I'll do soon, as I've been asked to make a video of the wiring.

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns I have seen others place thin steel plate over the magnets and still have plenty of power. I intend to place mine under some 20ga steel. This might also provide more flexible placement without concern for the magnet surfaces...

Hey Jeff, thanks for the suggestion regarding an overhead crane with electric hoist/winch. I have some them and think they'd be a better option than my manual arrangement, but when Mrs Rusty is around to help me, it's definitely easier with 2 of us. Do you run your own business and YT channel??

@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns business, yes... YT, no. I'm not a fan of social media, but sadly, i have to use it to keep the business going

What's your business name, or can you provide a link to your business, please. Which part of Australia are you in....I'm in WA, about 1 hour south of Perth.

Hey rockcrawler, thanks for the advice about testing with water, then applying air pressure, rather than what I did. I honestly never considered the possibility of it exploding if it couldn't hold the pressure....and with my head so close, it would hurt, a lot!! I appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me, thanks.

Hi Karyn and thankyou for your comments. You make a good point, and it was remiss of me to not cover how I wired up the power supply to the 4 magnets. From memory, I joined the red wire from each of the magnets, to one side of the toggle switch and the other side of the toggle switch to the red wire (12V+) from the power supply. I then joined the black wires from each magnet, to the black wire (12V-) from the power supply. With the mains power turned on, flicking the toggle switch puts power to all 4 magnets. I hope this helps....if not, feel free to email me at rmhyde58@gmail.com and I'll send you a photo from inside the electromagnetic enclosure.

The magnets just connect in parallel to the supply.

@slashsplat If you could do a video of wiring it would be helpful.

Thankyou for the suggestion....I'll make a video, shortly, of how the magnets are wired up.

I've been thinking about some sort of trestle, rather than lowering the sheet all the way to the floor, but it's just one more thing to stow in the shed when not in use....but it is a good idea, so thanks for that.

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns yeah probably get more in the way

Hey SegoMan, the 'still' is still catching water! Thanks for the links to the other storage and handling systems....I like Wolfgang's racking and overhead crane arrangement; it has a few less manual handling steps than me, too.

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns Your welcome Rusty Zombie! Yeah the quicker you can get metal on / off the better the profit margins. You do an hr drawing another 45 min loading / unloading for a 15 min cut job.. Like you mentioned your support column probable would not handle much weight, however you can put a real post next to it and do an overhead bridge crane. When I built my 6' x 12' table I added room for the gantry to park off the table as my my Hypertherm 105 will pierce 1" and edge cut 1-1/2" that is a lot of metal to to slide under a torch without banging things up..

I could probably erect a free standing overhead beam/rail, with support columns bolted to the concrete floor. At this stage I'm fine with how I load sheets onto the table, but I could look at updating this in the future.

Thankyou Lionel.

Thanks for the advice, Peter....that's a great idea. I'll see if I can find some.

Thanks Jim. Had a few obstacles to get over, but the air condenser is working well. There's an option to put auto drains on each of the dropper legs, too.

Thanks Olli....it works well, so any moisture not getting to my plasma cutter is a good thing.

You've seen through my clever disguise....hahaha!!!

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns Rusty, Zombie Brain Fart Here: The auto tank drain valve is a must (My 20 HP A C come from the factory with one installed), I would also plumb all of your water traps into a single manifold that has one on it as well. I installed a switch next to the mag starter for the Auto drain, when turned on they do a dump cycle, If it's been down a day or two I will give it 3-4 cycles to get rid of the condensate before starting new.

Thanks for the info. I have seen another set up similar to mine, where they had installed a manifold and auto drain valve, same as on the compressor. I like the manual valves because you can see how much water is coming out of each leg, but the auto drain would also be a good idea....great zombie brain fart!!!!

Thanks Ross. The video did go a bit longer than planned, but I didn't want to cut anything out. Did consider it in 2 parts, but went with just 1 video....like you, I hope people watch all of it.

G'day Chris and thanks for your comments. When I built my table, I used the original hand torch that came with the plasma cutter, and in order to make an ohmic sensor, I modified the original stand off guide, that came with the torch. It worked well, but did have a couple of minor hiccups....as did the plasma cutter; namely tripping out on duty cycle issues when making longer cuts with the amps turned up. Switching to a new plasma cutter (the Thermacut SD55) solved those issues, and the machine torch that came with the SD55 has its own ohmic sensor. However, water splashing onto the torch nozzle and ohmic sensor, caused me to have to lower the water table level, to get around constant 'material detection errors'. This introduced it's own problems, namely the material warping from the heat produced while cutting, and an increase in smoke and fumes coming off the table. The good news is the installation of the My Ohmic Pro unit, which basically de-sensitises the ohmic circuit, which has allowed me to run the water level at 15mm below the metal being cut, without causing any material detection errors....a real game changer. So, if you're going to run a water table and an ohmic sensor on your machine torch, definitely consider installing the My Ohmic Pro unit (available from Proma Elektronika). The MyPlasm software, also available from Proma Elektronika, is so simple to set up and use, it does make CNC plasma cutting, a breeze. It runs off .dxf files that I create in Inkscape. Besides that, the only thing I'd probably look at changing if I was going to build my table again, would be to look at 2010 ballscrews instead of the 1605 ones I went with. The main reason would be to run book speeds for thin material, but it's fine for all other thicknesses above 2mm....but being able to run the Hypertherm slow speed cut chart numbers for 1.6mm and thinner, does work well for me, though. I know there are people out there who don't like ballscrews, but for a table of my size, they work just fine. Hope this helps....and thanks for the suggestion of a video, which I've started working on, which is review of my table, after 3 years of operation.

@ yea would love to see a video on the changes and you talking through it. I’m looking into making a table for myself. Being in nz I think it’s better as other built tables and pretty expensive. Just not sure whether to make my own design kinda like yours or get a planned design to build off like jd garages new xl plans for a half size or full size table. But don’t know about the 3d printed parts and would like to use the ball screw drive

Chris, I sell plans for my table and I include a parts list, too. If you're going to use the MyPlasm CNC controller, I can include my wiring diagrams, too. If you're interested, feel free to email me at rmhyde58@gmail.com

Thanks Jim...it was a fun project and something a bit different. Made from 12mm plate, this Allosaurus measures over 5m from nose to tail....that would be cool to build one that big.

Hey Jeff, that would be a cool build. If you use 1/2" plate, it measures approx. 5.5m long!

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns Nearly killed me doing that size, mate. I had to make three of them for a fella.

yeah, the weight would have been a real issue, too.

Hi Ross, sorry to hear about your compressor and plasma lines blowing out....those sorts of things usually happen when you're half way through a job. I'm pleased with the way the 3mm dinosaur came out....would love to build a really big one. Also looking for similar files of other animals, etc. if you know of any.

Thanks SegoMan. Hypertherm is the gold standard but they're very expensive down here. Halloween never used to be 'a thing' down under but it has taken off in recent years.

Cool. If you get the 3D zombie cut out done, I'll buy a copy of the file off you.

Thankyou.

Hey Dai, firstly, thankyou so much for supporting the channel...it's greatly appreciated. Regarding the consumables, I'll send you a PM with the list of parts for my torch to see if they're the same as yours. As for my water table giving me issues with my material detection, you're correct...it does. I've had to lower my water table to reduce the material detection errors I'm getting on my table. Lukasz sent me an Ohmic Pro to try, but as yet I haven't installed it (it's on my list of things to do, along with upgrading my electrical cabinet). I did watch a recent video by Rob Broomfield, where he has installed an Ohmic Pro on his table, and it's been a gamechanger for him, as I'm hoping it will be for me, too.

Thanks Gary, I appreciate your kind words.

Not knowing anything about CNC plasma cutting tables when I built this one, I copied the design from someone else, and that was how they had set theirs up.

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns Not being critical, but I see many heavy overbuilt tables. You did a very nice job for sure.

Hey Ross, you're correct. I've cleaned them now, as well as replaced the linear bearings on both Y axis rails as they were getting 'noisy'.

Hi Rusty, always good to follow you. Great video...as usual.

Thanks Michel, I appreciate your support.

Hi Chris and sorry for the late reply. I create my designs in Inkscape and save the file as a .svg. I then 'save as' a .dxf, which is the format my cutting software uses (I'm using the MyPlasm CNC software from Proma Elektronika). If I need to make any changes to the file, I tweak the .svg version and then do a 'save as' a .dxf.....I find Inkscape sometimes doesn't like opening up .dxf files.

Thankyou for your kind words and I'm glad my videos have been helpful for you in deciding to build your own table. What size table are you thinking of building because I sell plans for my table, which has a footprint of 1800 x 1800mm and cutting area of 1330 x 1330mm and based on a ballscrew drive system operating on the MyPlasm CNC controller and plasma interface unit. If you're interested, you can email me for more details....rmhyde58@gmail.com

@@RustysMetalCutSignsDesigns ...because you have to start from the bottom, but also because most of the local DIY stores sell sheet metal in 2m/1m sizes, I want to make these sizes with an extra 10%, and more than likely I will need advice and I will ask, I'm gathering the materials - you know it's not easy - and I'm sure I'll ask something, for the moment to collect some more money, but I'm having trouble with the works, I'm an argon welder by trade, but I'm in Romania and everything is strange at the moment, thank you for your appreciation

When I built my table, I did so, knowing I'd probably build one to take a full size sheet of steel....2400 x 1200mm. I think if I was going to build my table now, I'd definitely build it to take a full sheet of steel. If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch, ok....happy to help if I can.

Hi Richard, thankyou for your kind words, and I'm glad you found my video series informative and helpful. I'd never thought of doing a follow up video, but you make an interesting point, so I'll give that some serious thought and make a video, when I can find some spare time.

Hi Emanuel and thankyou for your kind words. I'm glad you found my videos helpful and maybe inspired you to build your own table. I do sell plans for my table build....if you're interested, feel free to get in touch.

Thanks for your kind words....I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Hi Milos, Luke from Swags Engineering in Rockingham fabricated the water bed for me...here's his details: Unit 11, 21 Hurrell Way in Rockingham. His email address is: swagsengineering@gmail.com I hope he can help you.

The table is now 2 1/2 years old and while not used every day, has seen quite a few sheets of metal pass over it. As for things I'd change, maybe the ballscrews from 1605 to 2010, just to make it run a bit faster when cutting thin material, but turning the amps down on the plasma cutter and tweaking the cut speed have given me good results, though. If I built a full size table, I'd go with rack & pinion drive system.

The water bath is there to trap the fumes, sparks and smoke that are produced from the plasma cutting process. Breathing in these fumes isn't good for your health. The water also aids in cooling the metal, especially when cutting thin gauge.

Thanks Shane, I hope you enjoyed the build series.

Thankyou.

Hi Eric, I've been using the SD55 for a couple of weeks now. I did look at the 45XP but they are way more expensive. I'm still working on a couple of cut quality issues I'm having, but overall I'm happy with the new plasma cutter and machine torch.

Hi Melvin, if you want to send me an email, I'd be happy to try and sort your your issues.....rmhyde58@gmail.com

Thankyou...stay tuned for part 3 which will be coming out soon.