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Rev'em uP Channel
Приєднався 28 вер 2012
Real vs. Counterfeit Motorcraft parts
I bought 3 sets of “motorcraft” injector o-rings for my Powerstrokes. A month later had to re-do them. Thought maybe I did something wrong, then figured out the ones I got from Amazon were counterfeit. Hopefully this helps someone out!
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Відео
Bobcat s185 wheel bearings shot, axle tubes ruined!
Переглядів 1,8 тис.Рік тому
These axle tubes were completely destroyed!
2017 Chevrolet 3500 HD Pitman arm removal
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I tried every trick I could think of, I was able to remove it with harbor freight puller without taking any lines or sensors loose. I imagine an adjustable pitman arm puller would have worked too but it would take too long to get here. Hope this helps someone!
Bad ball joints - what they look like!
Переглядів 252 роки тому
I would definitely describe these ball joints as being old, worn out, post expiration date! Just a quick look at some awful ball joints :) 2000 Chevy 2500 4x4 is what these came out of.... People definitely need to grease their ball joints more often!
This Chevy is giving me a hard time! Any ideas??
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2000 Chevy 2500 4x4 5.3L vortec
2005 Suzuki Eiger 400 NO Spark - Solved
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This bike wouldn’t sputter at all when it came in. This is the reason. Whenever working on one of these it is recommended to replace the flywheel with the updated one. The one for sale on Amazon is a good one.
How to Identify your transmission Chevy Silverado 2500
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It’s on the pass side of transmission just behind the bell housing.
Polaris Ranger 500 carb overflow fix for less than $20! EASY!
Переглядів 25 тис.3 роки тому
We kept having over flow problems with the after market carbs off Amazon. This was a simple fix so we didn’t have to spend $500 on a oem carb!
New Holland LX885 won’t move (fail hydrostatic pump)
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New Holland LX885 won’t move (fail hydrostatic pump)
Bobcat 763 kubota v2203 no more bogging
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Bobcat 763 kubota v2203 no more bogging
Bobcat T650 Final Drive Rebuild/Reseal Part 1
Переглядів 7 тис.4 роки тому
Bobcat T650 Final Drive Rebuild/Reseal Part 1
2011 Polaris RZR 800 front shock tower replace
Переглядів 924 роки тому
2011 Polaris RZR 800 front shock tower replace
Honda Rubicon 500 centrifugal clutch rebuild
Переглядів 2434 роки тому
Honda Rubicon 500 centrifugal clutch rebuild
2005 6.0 Powerstroke Glow Plug Harness Removal trick
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2005 6.0 Powerstroke Glow Plug Harness Removal trick
2005 6.0 Power Stroke Turbo Leak check
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2005 6.0 Power Stroke Turbo Leak check
Bobcat S175 Broken Quick Attach Release handles - Part 4
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Bobcat S175 Broken Quick Attach Release handles - Part 4
Bro where are from
2004 2005 ??
How put on time the injection pump
Congrats, no point to this video
Bolts I see says the blind man
Why is my housing so hard to remove I took out the lock inside the housing already still will not slide
Where can I buy just the magnets please
The "trick" is to take the fender liners out. It takes about 10 Minutes each to take them out and about the same to put them back in. It is the difference between night and day for access. If you fought for an hour to remove 1 connector you could have removed the fender liner removed all 4 connectors, replaced 4 glow plugs replaced the glow plug harness, and put everything back together in an hour or less. When you have the fender liner out you have direct access to the glow plug harness connector, ether directly or from a distance of about 12". Any time you start the process of replacing 6.0L glow plugs you need to purchase the right and left glow plug harness especially if they have been in there for a 100K miles or more. Even Diesel Tech Ron with his modified connector removal tool showed how he removes stuck connectors that had broken off so even the pros do it. You should always, using the right removal tool try to remove the connectors first until you break the first connector. If you get lucky and get them all out so much the better although you might find that it is easier and faster to remove and install the glow plugs, especially on the passenger or right side, with the fender liner out. What I do every time is remove the fender liner once one of the connectors is broken as the harness is trash at that point. Then I take a impact driver with a 12" extension and a 1/8 drill bit and drill a hole in the connector slightly off center of the wire not to deep as to go into the engine. Then I take a 3-3 1/2 inch deck screw and using the extension and a T25 bit I drive the screw into the connector just until it holds. You do not have to drive it all the way through. Once the screw is in place I take a cheap pair of 12" needle nose pliers and use them to pull on the screw. DO NOT use the needle nose end to try to grasp the screw. Open them up and get the head of the screw between the legs of the pliers then close down on the screw so that it is captured between the legs. Then put the nose on the engine and pry up with the handle like a teeter totter with the screw in the middle. The connector will pop right out. Once you get the hand of it it takes 2-3 minuets to get a connector out if you first remove the fender liners and have the right tools setup. Drill with the extension, screw in the screw, pop out it is that easy. Some people use a short screw it is a lot easier to use a long screw so that you can use the long needle nose to lever them out. Now if you already have the valve cover off then you can push the connectors out with a big screw driver or a small bent nose pry bar and try to save the harness. If you do not have the valve cover off especially on the right side it is a LOT easier to remove the inner fender liner than to remove a valve cover especially on a dirty engine where you need to clean off the gunk on the seam between the cover and the engine to keep from getting dirt and trash out of the engine. Pull the fender liner you will save time and effort.
I tried this and it worked at first but then the engine started spitting at low speeds when decelerating. Any ideas of the cause and solution? One note…the old barb fitting that vented the fuel tank threaded in and we were able to find a brass barb at the hardware store that worked…we didn’t need the grommet. Thanks!
This fix worked! Carb kept overflowing through the vents, but now it works better than ever!! Thanks for sharing! On ours the hoses on machine were 1/4", the filter inlet & outlets were 5/16", had to adapt with brass adapters from Lowes. Oh, and make sure the return outlet on the filter is above the outlet to the carb.
Love it, straight to the point no BS
I’m one day in, none seem to come out. I used a drill bit but a lot of junk lands inside valve covers. Was in for an injector job now this is harder than doing injectors themselves.
I know this is an older video but was curious if it was still working i am having the same issue but now the new carbs ar 650.00 when you can find them. Video may be so old you won't even get this. Was just curious if the workaround worked long term?
This machine belonged to a customer, I was over there several times after this and he never had any issues out of it. Hope it helps you out!
We have the exact same problem, I'm going to O'reillys today to try the fix. Did you get yours fixed?
Fixed it!! Now to button it up & test drive it. Had to deal with 5/16" & 1/4" fittings.
@danl6191 how did you deal with the 5/16 to 1/4 issue.
@@richardmattson2445 Took it for a test drive, works great! To deal with mixed size hoses I went to Lowes & got brass adapters from 1/4" to 3/8". They didn't have 5/16". I didn't have the patience to find the 1/4" - 5/16". So we went from 1/4" on machine from pump - adaptor - 5/16" hose - filter - 5/16" hose - adaptor - 1/4" hose leading to the carb. I could send a picture if needed. One last thing, make sure the filter's return outlet is above the outlet to the carb.
Where did you get the Manuel from?
I can’t remember exactly. Probably from the internet. I probably have it saved somewhere but it’s been a while since I’ve needed it.
Did you ever fix it ? I have a ford lrg 425 bad icm. I cant find the part anywhere. 2.5l ford ignition control module
That's just plain hillbilly cheap Chinese carb you bought floods, Which is why you don't buy them. So hillbilly something to make it work. Could have got the Mikuni carb and works like day one. Some people.
after 3 days adjusting carb, thanks so much
I’m getting ready to do this right now. What a crappy design
Where i can find the second part of the video im in the same situation now whit the same machine? Thanks your video really help me!
Very helpful. Thank you!!
Is it possible to release the hydraulic brake of a T650 bobcat? I bought a T650 and when I turn it off or park it, it doesn't brake and when I turn it off I push it with another machine and it moves without resistance. Can you help me see why they don't stop my final drive.
Do those not have an impulse? I have one on a D4 and there is no snap like on other magnetos I'm familiar with
Helped me chief. Doing the job rn
I did this modification yesterday for the same problem and it worked nicely. Thanks for the video.
I've had the same problem. This fixed it. Hooked the gas line on the smaller side of the fuel filter. Running no problems. Easy $20 fix. Many thanks. Saved me $500 plus for a replacement.
So what was the problem and what did you fix
Thanks for making your video, it's been helpful to me.
Wisconsin V465 motor, it really likes gas lol
We've tried different carbs and pumps but my master mech. Is thinking the choke is wrong. Hmm 🤔
where do you buy the new magnets
Bought a new fly wheel that was upgraded
Put on a brand new carburetor and did this exact mod and it’s still flooding from the top overflow hose after I rev it a few times while idling. When I come in to a stop the Idle starts to get lower then it stalls. The fuel is drowning it out. I don’t know what to do now.
Did you figure it out? I’m having the same issues.
If this isn’t helping, either the fuel pump is over coming the return in volume or the float in the carb is stuck.
Thankyou for your instructions. I did install the part in and started the engine for a little bit then it’s stop. We tried to turn it again and it crank up but won’t start
Great video, just the view I needed. Mines in a stump grinder but shaft isn't broke yet. I'll get a slide hammer
Ranger 500 2002 here with fuel dripping from float overflow, air filter smelt rich, Chinese carb, tried to adjust the carb so many times…..and then…. This mod went onto mine earlier today exactly the same. Dripping has stopped. Stinky air filter stopped. Power has been restored. Good job. 👍
got the parts at O'reillys workes great
Good video! How did you keep the motor from trying to turn over when blowing in the air on the leak down test?
Thanks! I don’t believe it was an issue on this engine.
yes and another fix is to use a carb with needed flow off any make or aftermarket .easy just measure the size of the bore of carb in MM 28mm or 34mm what ever it is i do that hot roding fer years but nice to fix one that bolts on cables easy like OEM clone units God bless
Thanks for taking the time to make this. Good to keep these old machines running. I made a vid myself for the Series 10 Polaris. VIP for camshaft longevity: ua-cam.com/video/xBMTYu4OneA/v-deo.html
Having the same problem as your showing on this video.
What is the name of the part you got off eBay ? Any name or description would help, thanks
WIX 33040 filter. And the interface to the tank, on eBay, is called a: Fuel Elbow 1/4" 90 Degree Tank Fitting Metal W-Rubber Grommet PWC Lawn
I got mine off Amazon, what a world of difference it made.
Terry DeLisle I found the filter but I haven't been able to find the 90 degree fitting anywhere. Anyone have a suggestion.
sled dealer can get one for you. used on older snowmobile tanks
Gonna be doing exactly this to a perkins hopefully without removing the engine. Does that nut stay on the back of the pump hub after you unscrew the pump shaft to attach the slide hammer?
Excellent job Sir. My Ranger runs so much better now. Thank you!
It would have been nice if the title matched the video.
Should have got a split disk so much easier
Was it running rich as well?
Not really running rich because all of the extra fuel just went out the overflow.
@@revemupchannel4178 having trouble with mine running rich. Runs like normal with air cleaner off. Runs sluggish with it on, won’t go wot. Gonna try this and see what happens.
Almost as sloppy as the shifter in my honda!
In which of the main bearing do you install the thrust washer, number next to flywheel or the middle main bearing and also how many pairs of thrust washer?
Was the radiator not holding water