Відео

I said pringles can bottom in the video for people to understand the basic material, however, the chip can was a Chinese snack, and the bottom was much thinner than a pringles can. You need to use a gasket or the sheet metal with buzz against the tone arm, so I used a gasket from an old vacuum. I used a thin layer of hot glue to seal everything together, since it is softer and thicker than glues.

Good ear!

Oh! I'm so glad that 9th-grade me helped you fix up your camera! Thank you for sharing your success story with me!

The wood is from Lowe's, 1/2" thick. The jewelry brass is also from Lowe's, although cheaply procured and poorly mounted. The tone arm, platter, and spring-wound motor comes from one of those cheap suitcase record players, almost the antique version of a Corsley Cruiser. I bought mine for 120 dollars, the case complete but *very* ugly. Total, probably 200 dollars to build.

Do you like it? I adore it. One of the first commercial hi-fi recordings ever released, in 1930! Look up "Lazy Day" by the Westernaires. It has a young Benny Goodman on it!

@@thatrecord5313 I knew it seemed familiar! I’m more familiar with the version recorded by Al Bowlly! Thank you for the response and again wonderful job!

depends on your player, probably not. You could get a cheap amplifier circuit and that should do the trick.

An audio jack is not going to work. It doesn't have the required power to make a medium-size electromagnet work. Remember, in an audio jack, only minimal amounts of electricity is being provided to power tiny coils in earbuds top power them. Larger electromagnets like the one I use--and maybe like the one you're using--aren't going to function at even a fraction of its capacity with power from an audio jack. That is why I used this old radio, because there was an amp integrated that was strong enough to power both a large external speaker and my electromagnet.

@@thatrecord5313 can record head make without copper wire?

it needs to be in an exact position in both images? horizontally and vertically? or that difference between the clear (top) and yellow ( bottom) is normal?

@@richardrrv No, that is not normal. In fact, it sounds like your rangefinder window might be cutting into the optical image or away from the image (at which point is just a solid black line between both halves). You must calibrate your rangefinder. You may research videos online, or you can follow this step-by-step repair manual that you only find in the deepest alleys of the internet: www.arguscg.org/manuals/c3/gaon-repair/

@@thatrecord5313 Oh ok so at the end, I dont need to see yellow at the botton and clear at the top right? not cut? just both together focusing one image, by the way thank you for you fast response !!

@@richardrrv The upper half and lower halves are meant to line up things vertically. The horizontal doesn't do anything. And you are quite welcome! And your sub is much appreciated!

Of course, as long as it provides an electromagnetic field whose signal can alter the tape. This is easily checked by activating the audio head and playing a long tone signal on full power, then applying some magnetic substance to the head to check where it is most magnetic and then aligning that area with the tape.

@@thatrecord5313 where side it recorded?

@@GrandVah The entire side. I didn't try to record on just the left or right side. It was easier just to record the whole tape.

@@thatrecord5313 can the sound source be a powerful headphone jack?

You'd be surprised, most people take their exposures in a single day, but usually only on very bright days. I was surprised with how bright it was when I opened the window.

It functions just fine with its shape.

When dealing with acetone and repairs, you need to be very careful as to where you place it. If it was a blue film, then the camera was obviously an older C3, which is unfortunate. I do not know where to get the replacement film, but you can just cut any colored, transparent plastic.

I am still active, I just post whatever I build that works. I just moved from Nevada to Florida so now I have to restart with all my projects after giving away all my tools and materials. I do have plans to build as soon as I can, however.

@@thatrecord5313 Cool, I moved from Jersey to Florida a few years ago. I notice that there are a lot of cool antiques in farmers markets. I got a typewriter from i think 50's which was a remington. It doesnt work too well...hence the $10 I payed for it! (Im kid not adult but i like antiques) But I got a nice Smith Corona from Upstate New York. But I reccomend farmers markets, you tend to find cheaper antiques and less stuck up people about their prices. (My remington typewriter works good, I personally just am not comfortable with the keys) I ramble!

@@高橋えでん Quite interesting! In Nevada, I was next to Boulder City, originally founded in order to house the workers for the Hoover Dam in the 1930s. After the dam was completed, the city never did have much progress afterwards. The branching cities that were later formed, such as Henderson, progressed and expanded, but Boulder City still remained the same. And so, I can drive down there and anywhere I park, there is an antique store. Shops FULL of vintage machines, clothing, cameras. You name it, they have it. Yes, this includes Model T Ford fenders from the 1920s or typewriters such as your Remington. I too ramble on my typewriters. It's such a shame that I gave all my typewriters away to move here. I lost everything I collected over the years. Now, I only have an Argus C3 from the 1950s to keep me happy. How should address you? Mr. Takahashi? Ms. Takahashi? Eden? I'm John, 17 years old in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.

@@thatrecord5313 Aiden...日本語読めますか？Im 17 too, wow, we both love antiques! Im actually an Italian white girl but like I love Japanese and i made up that name based off Aiden えでん because i think it looks cooler than エデン。

Aiden, 日本語が読み取れる。However, while I can read, I cannot speak it much, nor can I say that I understand how to form my own sentences, so pardon any mistakes. The same age, huh? This is incredible! I've never met someone interested in antiques, 日本語, and takes interest in the whatnot I post on UA-cam. Do you also build things? I'm no rich man who can build whatever he wants, so I tend to hold the belief that with anything you build that is operational, the quality doesn't matter much, hence why I build my "car" out of wood instead of metal. I might be pushing it here, but do you also happen to take interest in early jazz?

I gave this record player to a friend shortly after I made the video, but if I remember correctly, the base wood board was 12x12 inches and the side wood boards are 7x12 inches, and the rear wood board is 7x10.5 inches (10.5 inches long because it has to offset the amount of room that is taken up by the thickness of the side wood boards). The top is also 12x12 inches, like the bottom. But I made these dimensions for a 9 inch platter, which isn't even the diameter of a 10" 78, so record hangs off the side of the box a little. Plus, the tone arm base had to be placed closer to the platter than usual, making the diaphragm at a weird angle that might affect sound quality. Plus, you can't play 12" 78s.

@@thatrecord5313 thank you i am planning to make one myself

Since the center spindle is screwed on (which is also responsible for holding the platter down), I used it to hold down the felt. I took the felt pad of a long-gone AudioTechnica record player and cut it down to size-the size of the inner platter. The hole I made in the felt was just slightly smaller than the diameter of the center spindle so it would be pinched between the spindle and the platter. I never added glue because I didn't want to ruin the platter in case I wanted to put it back in its original case with the original felt. You can add glue though, but I was just being cautious (and lazy)...