Відео

Had a nut locktighted in so had to loosen with acetate.

Did you drill holes for front badge looks like there are holes there already s3 style width . I am replacing plastic 3 to a wire 2 and not wanting to modify anything. I have lower bracket mounds factory not used in series 3 , just not sure about top . Plastic grille holes wide at top

Do power of the car change

I would have taken measurements and levelled the pistons and filled them with diesel and let it sit for an hr to see if you're having piston ring issues. What was the outcome in the end?

So is this an 88 or a 109?

Just about to do this on my 1966 S2A. Nice job.👌

My Series 2A bulkhead was in good shape but I just finished replacing the driver’s side footwell which was rotted out (What pain in the ass removing all the pedal boxes and accelerator linkages!). Like opening a Pandora’s box, when I cut out the old footwell of course I found more rust in the door post bottom and underneath the dashboard where the footwell connects. Find rot, cut rot, weld in new metal. That’s the recipe for a restoration on these vehicles! Rotted footwells, doorpost bottoms, and bulkhead rust are common problems on Series and Defenders so you’re in good company. Good luck!

Is that a original zenith 36 carb? Or the aftermarket one?

Nice classic series landrover gathering..❤

Is this the same on a series 3 diesel tho lmao coz my indecators didnt work i fitted new led lightnamd a flasher they worked for three flashes and died again

where did you buy this zanith? could you please send me the link where you buy.

Quite the adventure. See any LIONS while on Safari?😹

Are parts still available for 1980s midels

Just replaced my 2.25 petrol head gasket as it blew between 3 and 4. Last yr I did a top end overhaul and used a copper gasket. My advise is don't use copper as they are poor quality use a composite and torque down to about 50nm and then 88nm. Goodluck

Do you remember what the required torque settings for the final castle nut were? Thanks

Yip that was the problem , thanks 👍fixed and running sweet

Great video , i have same issue. Going to check it out ✌

I have a Weber but thinking about getting a Zenith. I get the same issue of not starting when it's warm and been switched off 15 mins.

beautiful thinking! I loved this video as a new series 3 owner

Hi there, Nice job and info in your video - thank you. I found the same County metal cased seals you chose to go with and am curious of a couple things. On my original metal ones that I removed, the sealing bit seems leather. May I ask, 1)Are your metal County seals leather or rubber inside?, and 2)How are they working out for you? I'm going nuts trying to decide on metal cased (with leather?) vs. rubber ones of newer technology like Bearmach sells. Many thanks.

you have used simple logical thinking .testing a fuse that looks good as i have had many a fuse that looks good to the eye but is faulty then the testing on the fuse box out good I am off to a land rover right now and will run an earth network throughout first that helps with an ally body As a further example my 14year old nissan pickup i redid the loom with earths everywhere and used cloth tape

Nice job. I think I've spotted a "split rubber" on the LHS steering ball joint at 10:59. If my series 3 109 was is as good shape, id be happy. Nice videos. Thanks :)

Hi mate, I am a Land Rover UA-camr from the UK, I am in the middle of a project for a video where I’m asking a few Land Rover enthusiasts a few questions (such as what got them into land rovers, what was there first Land Rover, what’s there best Land Rover story etc.) I was just wondering if you would be willing to partake in this project by any chance. If not then that’s fine and if you would be interested then please let me know and I will share a private video with you explaining everything. Cheers, Rhys

thanks for posting this help me loads as like yours parts missing internally so rebuilding i go on both my door pillars

Nice job so far. I ordered my door pillar from YRM and it was an OK copy as the original.

Good luck with the Zenith! I have one of the knock offs too - it seems to work ok but I have been warned they start to develop problems as time goes on. They are very cheaply made. One day I may get a rebuilt original Zenith (or maybe go fuel injection!)

I would like to add that before you weld everything up,check the curve at the top of the A post lines up with the curve on the wing top,then work downward.I know from experience when the nearside outrigger was 15mm low and threw everything out.Bugger

Get a cheap infrared thermometer and check top hose, thermostat etc. Then you’ll know what the actual temp is.

Good idea on putting Ali sacrificial spacer/ washers between the Rover and the steely bits. I’ll borrow that

I might contemplate fitting some to mine. All heavy wire in use in the headlights circuit already but you’re right, the combined light/ ignition switch has 10 A to deal with.

Where did you find bulkhead drawings?

Hi, can you tell me where you found these news letters, I’ve tried searching but have not been able to find them.

Nice job, that looks like a very useable Rover you can enjoy.

Great looking car. :)

Looks good. :)

CSM Retro Restorations made a good video on door seals 👍

Nice job. This is an upcoming repair on one of my Land Rovers.

phil billy said your selling a land rover name ya price

Not being an expert but also a fellow 2A owner. Are you sure they were brass gaskets and not copper? Thanks for the video.

Saya juga restorasi, 1 tahun belum selesai😪😪😪

Nice event. Cheers

09:42 "not a bad line, not perfect...", so it's factory original then 😀. Great work. I'm glad my '68 has been in the Aussie heat and dry for the last 20 years, the bulkhead and chassis repairs in front of me will a dodddle compared to the marathon effort you have made. Respect!

Nice video!

good solid truck mate! you've done a good job!. I'm busy doing a 68 109, but it's a slow old process!!

I've just bought a pillar like the one you had in part 1 for a Defender. Where did you buy the Series pillar from? Thanks.

Very satisfying job. Time to stop sitting here watching videos and get on with mine. (I do like the door hinges on a Series 2...)

Very nice video thanks. Just about to replace pillar and foot on my Series 3. I've removed the bulkhead from the Landy already. Looks like I should put it back on before I cut the foot off. Are you planning to replace the edge flange on the door seal channel? I look forward to the next installment.

More great tips. Excellent.

Good stuff! Your the first I've seen showing how to get at that door pillar, a nasty job I myself have to look forward to. Thanks for the detail. Cheers.

Looks about as good as the job I'm doing to my 2a bulkhead. My rust in the hinges didn't look as bad as yours however. I think the dryer weather in Tasmania prevents them rusting as much as in the UK. Looks solid I'm sure it will last many years to come!