Відео

Box speeds tend to be high, it's marketing. Digital has a straight line curve, film curves have a toe that is shallow then turns at a greater angle, where there is more contrast coming out of the shadows on the toe. So the toe can have little contrast but over exposing puts shadows on the straight line, gamma, with more varying tones. If you try to lighten underexposed shadows in post, you get flat, muddy shadows but pulling them down doesn't. The old adage is expose for shadows develop for highlights. Over exposing say hp5 2/3 stop at 250 iso, moves the shadows up the curve and gives insurance that the shadows aren't blocked up, completely black, then shortening development pulls the highlights back down. In negative film, the shadows are light on the negative and only have to be darkened a small amount usually finished by half way through development but highlights on a negative are darker and keep developing. So shortening development allows darkening highlights. Negative film has perhaps a 2 stop usable under exposure, but as Kyle Macdougal showed on his channel, 5 stop over exposed hp5 looks IDENTICAL to proper exposure. Try over exposing digital 5 stops at 1/30 instead of 1/1000 and you get a pure white rectangle. I shoot portra 400 at 200, 160 at 100 to achieve the beautiful pastel colors and wonder skin tones unmatched in digital.

If I set the iso to 200 for a 400 film, can I set the ev to +1 to compensate low light situations?

Wish I could actually find superia 400 somewhere 😅

I really want one after seeing another UA-camr take an epic picture with one, the same video was also what introduced me to shooting Vision 3 but ECN-2, was surprised to see you had a C-41 version which is great as its devlop at home friendly so happy with that! Havent found the 120 C-41 anywhere though yet. Great video 🙂

Love your cat...

yes, good line-up, but thanks for the hasselblad 500c thats the best iconic noise a camera can make, but you did forget a LF cameras leaf shutter, that has an interesting 1/2 sec. whirring of gears, great asmr all of them.

I think what’s missing is that while it’s good rule of thumb to over expose since it’s more forgiving when you mess up metering. It’s important to learn how to meter correctly because then you will actually know if you loose details in the shadows or not. Then you will have an even greater dynamic range if you find that sweetspot. Internal lightmeters just don’t know where in the scene the detail is you are interested in. They just expose whatever is in the center of the frame for middle gray depending on the lightmeter of course. So shooting a bright sky in the background with the subject to the left, of course the image will be underexposed for your subject because the lightmeter just measures the sky in the center.

If you're shooting manual you can just expose at 1 stop over (or whatever) as seen by the meter needle or readout. Thus giving you the ability to adjust exposure per frame without having to change film speeds. If you develop your own film you can play with pushing/pulling, temperature and dilution to play around with shadows and highlights. It's all good fun!

Beautiful collection 🤩

Question. Were your photos you shared straight out of camera with no editing so we can get a better idea of box speed vs over exposing your photos without editing them?

Great video man :)

I’m not going to lie, I wasn’t expecting much when I clicked, but this is the one of the most thorough, clear, and straightforward explanation video. Thank you for not inserting a joke every 10 seconds. Very professional.

Remember, film works on chemical processes, not a digital sensor. It cares a lot less about exact exposure settings and it also sort of RESISTS highlight blowout the longer you expose it (exposure reciprocity) because of it's chemical nature

All UA-cam videos should end with a purring cat. Great explanation, too. Thanks!

digital underexpose analog overexpose

hi i have question if I shoot portra 400 at 200 iso in my light meter what iso I put 200 or 400 ? thanks you (:

Another useful tip is two overexpose two stops for night photography. The images come out looking clean, and you avoid the dreaded green cast in the shadows. Given that night photography has a lot of shadows, it benefits the most by overexposing by two stops. Yes, you will need a tripod, but lugging around a tripod is better than having thin negatives that look like sh*t.

Hi . Would ask the lab to develop at box speed even if I change the iso by 1 stop ? Thanks

Jelly about that collection

Hi, I was given some expired Kodak Gold 400, exp 2007, and got back a very dark "blank" roll from the camera shop. I've checked my camera, Canon A1, 50mm 1.8 FD lens, UV filter L37, for function and metering and all tested good. It at first appears black but what I see is when I hold up the film to light at arms length, there is a complete roll of very faint but clear images very dark. I compensated my ASA from 400 to 325 for the age expiration of the film. I thought at first the film had been accidentally exposed to light and was re-rolled into the canister but not likely since there are faint images. My other thought is the film was exposed to heat since I live in the desert of Nevada. What else would you think it could be as I have three more expired rolls I want to experiment with? Thanks in advance.

That is what I have done too. Usually by a stop.

Insanely beautiful ❤

can you recreate xpan on digital?

im just guessing, but aidan is a virgin.

I've rarely seen anyone do such a clear explanation on dynamics of film vs digital. Hats off.

Brilliant explanation thank you

You have away of making a confusing comparison simple. That is a good thing.

Wow, this was a delight! What a cool camera! My wallet is screaming at me from the other room "DON'T YOU F*CKIN' DARE". Strapping the phone to the back was a brilliant idea! Really hope to see more videos from you!

Been doing this for years while shooting film. I always metered and exposed at half of the rated ISO/ASA rating of the film emulsion. It was standard practice to produce a denser negative to open shadows but not completely blowout highlights. Interesting to see new photographers discovering these techniques decades later.

Amazing that an in depth explanation like this is so hard to find. Great video

Can this technique be used in black and white film?

Hi, thanks for this helpful video. Just a quick clarification. So, if I overexpose a film (i.e., shoot a 400 film at 200 in camera) to get more shadow details, should I then underexpose in developing (pull)?

5:24 That image is beautiful! What lens & film, and was it overexposed?

4:59 Oh wow this explains soooo many bad photos lol. This whole video was a very good lesson. Thanks!

Great explanation 😊

best explanation of this concept ive heard

Is that how the vampire from twilight Halloween costume look like?

Thank you for such a sophisticated explanation

Thank you for explaining this. I've been overexposing my color film incorrectly. Just twice but after watching this video, I finally got it. Thank you. Liked and now following too.

That first Hasselblad. Man ALIVE, do I ever love that sound.

good video cute cat

This is not a tool. That's just bullshit for the mentally weak. This is a technique to guard against your inability to properly meter or otherwise determine a proper exposure. It's in the nature of "better too much than too little exposure". What you are doing here is killing the dynamic range of your film a bit, in effect loosing highlight detail at the top end of the exposure (if any of course) in order to raise shadow detail which might be lost if you accidentally under expose.

so it basically has photoshop generative fill built-in

Hi, iv had issue with Minolta Hi Matic E rangefinder. One roll of c41 came out (home processing) with over half of roll clear no edge markings…. Another roll came out blank but with edge markings…. But… both rolls had images. 7/24 & 17/36 were perfect 🤷🏼‍♂️

God. I sort of want this style of shooting on a film camera

Thx a lot for sharing this method 🤜🏾🤛🏾

If I wanna overexpose porta 400, should I meter for iso 200 and use the settings that I get from the light meter for iso 200?

The leica was just a flex. It doesn't even sound nice to be honest 🤣

That was lovely. Missing Pentax 67 mirror slap but it was lovely. Thanks.

I am an older photographer, so I have been using film since 1969. What you say is true for color negative films. I first experienced this in 1975 when I was shooting a food shot for my portfolio. I had a professional lab process the 4x5" color negative film and contact print it. I sent them back the correct exposed negative. They gave me a phone call, they said they remember my negatives they told me to send the darker negative in. I had done a bracket of one stop over and one stop under, and one at normal exposure. I told them it is overexposed, but they said it will give you more detail and is easier to print. Another time when I was assisting a wedding photographer, he told me he always overexposes VPS one stop over. He told me I should do the same, it gives a better printable negative. Sometimes underexposing color transparency films 1/2 stop can give you more color saturation, so bracket. I once had an industrial photographer tell me that professionals bracket amateurs do not. I don't think I would want to try this with black-and-white film. Increasing development and decreasing development controls contrast with black-and-white. Today I prefer the quality of digital.