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Thanks for watching! Currently I'm doing a finished basement and a few repair and paint projects. Lumber hasn't been too bad, 2x4x8 prime studs are 2.99-3.39 in my area, depending on the volume ordered. I feel like this is a decent price, certainly much better than the past few years. What project are you working on?

@@PropertyProblems I have a rental turnover....simple cleaning of the place but then the whole house needs to be checked for any chipped paint...inside and out. It has to get a lead inspection, then a city inspection...then I can put in a few tenants. I would rather be installing a bathroom into the basement....but I'll be painting instead. I guess I can save the five gallon buckets... I hope lumber drops more. I've been putting used boards aside...I have to reframe a portion of another house. Water came in from the roof and over time destroy my walls. ( That was all my fault...I didn't realize it was happening ). I wish I could do less cleaning and more actual work. Have a super week ahead

Painting can be tedious, but hey, at least when you're done, the property will be bringing in money again. Probably best to focus on the one with water damage, that can snowball very quickly. Hope the paint work goes well for you, and good luck! 💪💪

Understandable! It's nice to save a few bucks, but doing all four would be a miserable afternoon 😄 Thanks for watching!

That's a great idea, and I considered that, but I was worried about potentially damaging the tool. Also I would need a different light strip and a voltage limiter, as these are made to run on 0.5 volts, and the standard Dewalt batteries are 18 volt.

Typically I will use 80 or 100 grit for removal, depending on how hard the texture is (less added water results in a harder surface). I wouldn't sand a popcorn ceiling right away. If the surface is painted, make sure you have a high quality respirator and wear PPE. Lay down plastic and floor protection, then take a pump sprayer and get the texture nice and wet (I use hot water). There are special scrapers designed to remove the popcorn texture (like the Homax 6100), which is designed for this purpose and makes things easier. You can even attach a small bag to the scraper which will catch the texture as you work, but I just let it fly and clean at the end. Unpainted, that texture will melt off like butter, but painted texture will be more trouble and the sander will be faster. Good luck on your project, and let me know if you have any questions! And feel free to subscribe for more helpful tips 😉

@@PropertyProblems Thanks for the answer. I might Just ask more when Im about ready to start. I got 1400 sq ft to do.

Anytime! There are a few long-form videos on my channel, showing the entire process from texture to smooth. I am back to making videos and I have several coming, let me know if you'd like to see something specific

Great job! I'm glad the video was helpful and you were able to complete the repair. Feel free to reach out if you have any issues!

Yes!! That's what I said to myself when I first did it, such a life improvement. Do you have the sander and dust extractor already?

Softwood, yes, but it doesn't refer to the durability. These are kiln-dried Burrill Fir stud boards, I prefer the premium ones, but any straight stud wood will work. Douglas Fir is another common wood for studs, both are softwoods. Hardwoods come from flowering or fruit-bearing trees like oak or maple, and softwoods come from conifers like pine and Douglas fir trees. Hardwood trees grow more slowly, which can result in the wood being denser and stronger, but some softwoods are harder than hardwoods. We use softwood in framing because it grows faster and straighter, is more affordable, and tends not to split as much when we shoot nails into it. When you go to the lumber yard, look for prime or premium studs, make sure they're straight, and you'll be fine. Good luck with the project!

@PropertyProblems that's very helpful, I appreciate it👍

Anytime! Feel free to message if you have any other questions, let me know how it goes

Thank you, and thanks for watching! 💙💙 The sanding process knocks down a lot of the texture layer, but I'm not sanding it all the way to the paper. The skim coat is necessary because it fills the small voids left from the texture, and allows me to smooth out the whole area with the skimming blade, leaving a smooth and flat ceiling surface. If you just sand the ceiling and paint directy, the marks from the texture and from sanding will both show. I would advise hiring a professional if you don't feel comfortable, it's much cheaper to do it all right the first time. If you want to try it yourself, check out my other video that shows the whole process. Feel free to write back if you have more questions!

Ha! Trust me, I had the same thought about halfway through. Since then I have done the other side, and I'm way faster at it now 😂 Regarding the bead sealer, it will help create a better seal along the rim, but I didn't use any. It's a low pressure tire, and I don't drive the mower far, so if it developed a slow leak, it would be okay...but it hasn't yet

@@PropertyProblems I mistakenly ordered a complete assy. that said it would fit my mower. Well, it didn't lol. I was able to pound the bearings on the axle and get the dust cap on with no e-clip. it's so frigging tight that I figured, if the dust cap comes off, the wheel is coming off and then I'll find the right wheel. I did my whole 2 acres and the wheel never moved. Don't tell anybody I was an aircraft mechanic for 30 years. We call this a "combat fix" haha.

Like they say, nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works! 😂 I have found lately that with the similarities between parts on these riding mowers, many new "parts manufacturers" have come on the scene with sub-par machining. Sometimes we gotta save money and order the cheap one from the internet, I have done it myself. I am currently replacing the spindles on that mower, and it is quite a project. Glad your fix is working well! Thanks again for watching

@@PropertyProblems You're welcome. good content. Good luck in your endeavors.

The jack point is probably different on all mowers, but mine has a thick steel front frame rail between the wheels, so I use that. To remove the clip, I put a flathead between the clip and the axle, didn't want to pry it sideways and risk bending the clip.

Thanks for watching!

La luz esta de Amazon, "USB light strip"

Thank you! Thanks for watching

The tow strap holds the tire to help set the bead, otherwise as you add air, it will just seep out from the tire bead. Thanks for watching!

Unfortunately this trick only works with transition cement. For ABS cement, Isopropyl Alcohol will break it down pretty easily

​@@PropertyProblems thanks! I ended up chipping it off with a screwdriver and a series of small cuts.

It is a fairly tight fit, make sure the washers are in the same place they were during removal. Also a light grease may be helpful. Thanks for watching, let me know if that works for you!

It definitely helps loosen up the fitting, just be careful not to cut through the piece you want to save

You're welcome! thanks for watching 😊

I had it on the low heat setting, which on mine is about 750-850F

@@PropertyProblems cool. I have an issue with my closet flange hub being glued inside closet bend. Have to remove since steel rings deteriorated. Have same heat gun as you. Instead of making cuts, I'm thinking of heating the fitting all-around and loosening and removing by hand

So it's an offset flange? That could work, but the heat gun trick works best on transition cement in my experience, not sure what kind of glue you're working with there. Depending on your access, you could use an inside pipe cutter or a fitting saver to remove the bad piece. Or you could cut and remove just the steel ring, they sell replacement rings that come in two pieces for easier installation to an existing flange.

The heat gun just needs to warm up the transition cement to loosen the bond, you definitely don't want the pipe to get hot enough to make fumes. ABS plastic (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) has a low melting point of 221F/105C, so be very careful. That's what I was illustrating with the pipe "turning to jelly" example about halfway through the video.

@@PropertyProblems yes I remember it on your r video , I have a 45 degree angle fitting that is PVC and I have heard people say the fumes are toxic, so your saying that if I heat up the PVC and DO NOT create fumes that it will be safe???

You don't want to heat the pipe, just the glue. This works because ABS and PVC are joined with transition cement, which softens when it is warmed up. With PVC, I would just cut it off and use a fitting saver if you need to save the fitting.

The cuts help to get heat to the transition cement and to loosen the joint, no reason to try to save any ABS fittings. Just be careful when cutting that you don't damage the pvc if you need to save it. The easiest way is just cut everything out and rework it, but the concrete tube prevented that in this instance. Good luck with your project Roxanne!

@PropertyProblems its all abs here. I wanted to save the fitting on one side as it's part of the 2" washing machine trap and they're $$$ these days. I was able to get the ABS apart by cutting through half the adjacent fitting (22° elbow), heating up the end and breaking the remaining pieces off in sections.

@@RESMITHcarpentry Nice work! I'm glad you were able to save the trap. If you ever end up needing a new fitting, just get the PVC equivalent and glue it up with Oatey Transition Cement

It is quite a workout! 😆 Thanks for watching!

@@PropertyProblems I see‼️ You are welcome brother.

Thank you so much!! I really appreciate that. I've been learning a lot lately, and I have big plans for this channel. Thanks for being here!!

​@@PropertyProblemshow long did it take to sand and paint?

Finish sanding, plus primer and ceiling paint was probably around 4 hours. Thanks for watching!

Yes, that is an important consideration! Asbestos use was banned in the US in 1989, so I always examine the work closely if the home was built before that time. With an Asbestos ceiling, I would never run a sander. There are companies who specialize in Asbestos removal and abatement, so I would defer to them for removal. Luckily this was a newer build, so this ceiling was done with unpainted topping mud.

DuraBond is commonly used for plaster repairs, this is drywall so I used USG Easy Sand. Both are setting-type joint compounds. I tend not to use Durabond on drywall repairs, as it is basically unsandable.

This is only 15 seconds of the process. Over a year later, the paint is still looking great.

That's what this is, can't paint it while it's wet though!

Correct, I replaced this with PVC, but they do make transition cement for that reason, as there are times when you have to glue up to existing work.

They do make transition cement but it does not conform to code. Use a shielded mechanical coupling.

Why they do I didn't get it is it cheaper why that don't use nuts pipe nutts ?

I would recommend using a high quality sanding sponge. Sanding with a machine is exhausting, and the equipment is expensive, but I do it to keep the dust down on the jobsite. Pole sanding is another option, but it takes practice to hone your technique. Sponges are nice and easy, you can get 5 of them for $30 or so.

In this video, I used the 24" Columbia Tomahawk, the blades are available in several sizes. Also, the pole is the Columbia One pole with the Tomalock adapter. I'll go more in depth in the upcoming tool videos, so subscribe for more! 😉

The first pass of sanding just knocks down the texture, it's not very smooth after that since I'm using 80 grit sanding discs. Also, my camera quality isn't the greatest out of the GoPro. The skim coat fills any voids, and makes the whole surface smooth across the width of the room. That way, no imperfections will show when the sun shines through the window.

Sorry for the typos. I forgot to edit myself. I need some tools and a better system to do this.

Hey there, thanks for watching! Painted texture is very difficult to remove, as you have found. In your case, I would knock down the swirl with 80 grit, then skim over it. Since you only need it for this project, you could rent a sander and dust extractor to save money. Also, I would recommend getting a high quality smoothing blade for your final coat. You can check out the 'Ceiling Transformations" video to see that process. Let me know if you have more questions and I'll try to help. Feel free to subscribe to see more drywall tips 😉

Ceiling Transformation video link - ua-cam.com/video/BSdZhD9KekU/v-deo.html

Thank you! Thanks for watching

LOL! That's Paper Vapor, from the album Supreme, by @StreambeatsByHarrisHeller

You can spot the moment where I almost gave up 😅

Thanks! It has been very useful

Did that with my mirka, found that no matter how carefull id be, I'd smash the lights into corners and floors, some guy showed me how to do it so you dont smash the lights, its been over a year now, and lights still look new. Look up mirka light modification.

This was a heavy texture, so I used 80 grit Joest sanding discs. 100 grit works okay for lighter textures, just depends how much you need to remove, and how comfortable you feel with the machine.

Thanks for info

@@Heisthelionofjuda Anytime! Good luck with your project. Feel free to ask if any other questions come up

I’m about to start this project myself with the dewalt sander too.. how easy was it? And do you have any tips?

When I tried using this on the lowest setting with slow steady movement and light pressure it scratched my ceiling. Have you experienced that?

Check out the Ceiling Transformation video to see the whole process

Haha, yeah the previous owner was quite creative with the plumbing 😂

Thank you Geoff! Thanks for watching

The dust extractor doesn't get clogged because the filters are self cleaning, and I use fabric dust bags. As far as how long it takes to fill a bag, that depends on the application. On this project, I removed about 1600 sf of heavy ceiling texture, and it took five bags.

Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Yes, the dust extractor makes for a much cleaner site, and easier breathing. I use 220 grit Joest sanding discs to sand the final coat

@@PropertyProblems thank you for replying

Anytime! I have plenty more videos coming with the sander, also some tutorials and tool reviews, feel free to subscribe so you don't miss them 😉

In this video, I used the Dewalt DWV010 dust extractor, so the anti-static hose was included and the quick connect works with most Dewalt tools and dust shrouds. They do sell adapters to make the sander work with other brands, which dust extractor did you get?

@@PropertyProblems thank you for the reply, I'm using the DXV12-QT 12 gallon wet/dry vac.

I haven't tried to run it with a shop vac, not sure how that will work. Dewalt does sell an adapter kit to help hook to a shop vac, but I really like the anti-static hose since it won't shock you as much.

@@PropertyProblems yea I think I'd like that kind of hose with the shop vac. Only cuz it came with the vacuum, I personally would have gotten an extractor

Good luck with your project! Let me know how it goes

It depends on the application, but on this job I used USG Ultralight mud, and whipped it with about 3 cups of extra water. That's my favorite mud for skimming, but sometimes I will use Plus 3 if I need the extra adhesion.

I use a 3/8" nap texture roller, sometimes called "Goop Loop". It has polyester loops that hold the mud nicely, plus you can spray it out while it's still wet and use it over and over. You can find them at the Depot for about $8

@@PropertyProblems You are awesome. I appreciate the response and sharing your experience.

Thank you! I'm happy to help, that's why I'm building this channel. I have tutorials and tool reviews coming soon, and many more vids like this, so subscribe to see more 😉

@@PropertyProblems you are a legend, thank you

Nice work!.. what grit did you use to remove the texture?

The sander is about $450 bare tool, but you'll need a bunch of batteries too. Plus the Joest sanding discs are $40 per pack of 15. Then there's the dust extractor, dust bags, HEPA filters, mask filters, etc. If you do a lot of finish work, it's worth the money for the clean site and less cleanup, but it is an investment.

All good , but I do not understand why to use dn cordless sander for drywall ? 1. Working in interior you always have AC . 2. It is heavy compares with an cordless.

@@PropertyProblems what do you think pf the cheaper brands on Amazon around 150-200 price range, there is one made by WAL that some contractor guys in the comments recommended. That DeWalt is too expensive for me, but I am sure that is the best one.

@@hisnewlife3543 I wouldn't go with a cheap one because the results wouldn't be as good. Try renting the Porter Cable version from Home Depot if you just need it for one project. The Dewalt is a nice midrange drywall sander, the best in my opinion are the Mirka Leros and Festool Planex.

For texture removal, I start with 80 grit sanding discs to knock it down. Then I float the ceiling with ultralight and sand it again with 220 grit. I use the Joest sanding discs, they have the best dust recovery and the pads are very durable. I get them from All-Wall. You want it pretty smooth before the skim coat, but don't take it all the way to the paper

@@PropertyProblems how smooth before floating? and thank you for the info!

With a heavy texture like rosebud, you can get it pretty smooth without completely removing everything. I posted a video a couple weeks ago that shows the whole process start to finish. I have a tutorial video coming as well, so subscribe to see more! 😉

@@PropertyProblems will check it out! thank you for the informative responses

I run the smaller Powerstack batteries, and I switch them every 15 minutes to keep them charging. The 5aH Powerstack will run it for about 40 minutes, but it's heavier so not as good for ceiling work. I haven't used the corded sander so I'm not sure how they compare as far as weight

Again I appreciate the information. What grit of sandpaper if I were to hand sand with a radius 360 pole sander would you recommend?

No problem, anytime. It depends on the mud you used, and your sanding skill level. With a softer mud like ultralight, I like 180-220 where with Plus 3 or harder, I use 120. If you're still learning, 220 will be a slower removal so it's less likely to gouge or scrape. Good luck on your project!