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JeDoVi 3D
Приєднався 8 гру 2023
Welcome to Jedovi’s 3D Printing Wonderland, where plastic dreams become tangible realities! Join Jedovi on a journey through the quirky universe of molten filaments and extruder magic. Be prepared for more ooze than a melted cheese sandwich and more failed prints than a 3D printing support group. Subscribe now, because we promise our sense of humor is as dry as the filament spool in the desert - and just as likely to snap unexpectedly!
Creality K1 Nozzle Upgrade - Everything You Need To Know
In this video, we show you how to install the Creality K1 Nozzle Quick Change Heatsink Kit on our Creality K1 3D printer. This upgrade makes it easier and faster to swap out nozzles without having to take the whole printer apart. We'll guide you step by step through the process, from unboxing the kit to installing it on the printer. You'll learn how the quick change system works and why it can save you time, especially if you're printing with different types of materials. Whether you're new to 3D printing or an experienced maker, this tutorial will help you get the most out of your Creality K1.
#Jedovi 3D #CrealityK1 #3DPrinting #NozzleUpgrade #QuickChangeNozzle #HeatsinkKit #CrealityUpgrade #3DPrinterTutorial #MakerCommunity #3DPrintingTips #Creality #easytutorial
Support the Channel for new content and materials:
www.paypal.com/paypalme/my/profile
Creality K1 3D Printer: amzn.to/4eLQR8C
Creality Official K1/K1 Max/K1C Upgrade Ceramic Heating Block Hotend Kit, Unicorn Quick Swap Nozzle Kit: amzn.to/4gYdmZg
PCBWay: www.pcbway.com/activity/anniversary10th.html
Sixx Precision Y-Axis Plate - www.printables.com/model/527748-kobra-max-linear-rail-upgrade
For all of our products, Visit:
www.jedovishop.com
$30 OFF
on orders over $300
Code: Lucky30:
store.creality.com/pages/halloween-sale
Precision Tool Kit - amzn.to/3VprdQ9
Canon EOS R10 Mirrorless Camera - amzn.to/3BGoIkG
Sony Z-1F Camera - amzn.to/3vjrkSH
Music by D-Kel - dkelmuzik@gmail.com:
distrokid.com/hyperfollow/dkelz/in-the-key-of-business
Anycubic Kobra Max amzn.to/3vsziIH
Timelapse Camera: Logitech C920x HD Pro Webcam amzn.to/3Hh26Xk
Camera: Nikon D7000 DSLR amzn.to/48QPMJd
Lighting: Softbox Lighting Kit amzn.to/3vC1qcA
Lens: Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens with Auto Focus for Nikon DSLR Cameras, 2183, Black amzn.to/41YejJX
#Jedovi 3D #CrealityK1 #3DPrinting #NozzleUpgrade #QuickChangeNozzle #HeatsinkKit #CrealityUpgrade #3DPrinterTutorial #MakerCommunity #3DPrintingTips #Creality #easytutorial
Support the Channel for new content and materials:
www.paypal.com/paypalme/my/profile
Creality K1 3D Printer: amzn.to/4eLQR8C
Creality Official K1/K1 Max/K1C Upgrade Ceramic Heating Block Hotend Kit, Unicorn Quick Swap Nozzle Kit: amzn.to/4gYdmZg
PCBWay: www.pcbway.com/activity/anniversary10th.html
Sixx Precision Y-Axis Plate - www.printables.com/model/527748-kobra-max-linear-rail-upgrade
For all of our products, Visit:
www.jedovishop.com
$30 OFF
on orders over $300
Code: Lucky30:
store.creality.com/pages/halloween-sale
Precision Tool Kit - amzn.to/3VprdQ9
Canon EOS R10 Mirrorless Camera - amzn.to/3BGoIkG
Sony Z-1F Camera - amzn.to/3vjrkSH
Music by D-Kel - dkelmuzik@gmail.com:
distrokid.com/hyperfollow/dkelz/in-the-key-of-business
Anycubic Kobra Max amzn.to/3vsziIH
Timelapse Camera: Logitech C920x HD Pro Webcam amzn.to/3Hh26Xk
Camera: Nikon D7000 DSLR amzn.to/48QPMJd
Lighting: Softbox Lighting Kit amzn.to/3vC1qcA
Lens: Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G Lens with Auto Focus for Nikon DSLR Cameras, 2183, Black amzn.to/41YejJX
Переглядів: 612
Відео
The Kobra Max Make Over! Can this Large 3D Printer Be Awesome Again?
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Slicer Bed Mesh Leveling: #GCode #Marlin #Klipper #tutorial
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Slicer Bed Mesh Leveling: #GCode #Marlin #Klipper #tutorial
Thanks for taking the time to share this video. As a retired Architect/Engineer, by design (pardon the pun) I'm always looking for methodologies to potentially improve the efficiency of an existing mechanism. On the surface I like the idea of a direct drive (thinking TPU) on the printer. But the first thought that ran through my head after watching your kindly provided video is; that seems like a lot of extra weight/mass added to not only the extruder, but to the X axis travel ability. Assuming you've had some time to print with this new arrangement yourself, have you experienced any X axis problems like travel input lag, increased vibration on the X-Y? Also, even though it's referred to as "direct drive", it still has a Bowden tube as part of the filament flow...just a much shorter Bowden tube. I'm thinking perhaps considering an even MORE pancake (thinner profile) style Nema motor for the extruder over the stock motor to lower the total mass of the extruder piggy-backing on top of the hot-end as it moves in the X-Y axis. Considering how cheap these slimline Nema motors are, seems like an additional positive upgrade. N'est-ce pas?
Awesome video! We’re looking to do the same here, could you share your printer.cfg file?
It was always trash. You just didn't know it at the time. Throwing good money after bad now is... Ill-advised.
What did it cost for that?
Hello JeDoVi Great video I have a question about my anycubic kobra max I keep getting error messages when I try to auto level my machine . says calibration a success but it does not ask you to put a metal object under the extruder . it moves to the home postition and then please wait for the preheating error auto leveling sensor abnormal please check it and wiring Not sure what to do the parts for this machine are impossible to find Any help would be greatly appreciated
I don't suppose you'd be willing to share profiles? I'm sort of at a loss with this thing, worried to go any faster or any bigger because I don't want to ruin a print
Thank you for continuing to make videos on this printer! I'm still running mine, and finding videos about it is getting harder and harder by the day!
When you were looking around for a 3D scanner, what scanners would you say were in your top 3 choices and what made you choose the Revopoint MiraCO Pro over the other two choices?
This is wonderful. Answered my questions, straight to the point! New subscriber here! Thank YOU!!!
Any updates? You said you was going to upgrade it further JoDoVi!
Thank you very helpful 😁
I love how you drop more things we need, on the final step of the process. Additional tools/materials required, which aren't disclosed at the start: 3 additional M3 screws of an undisclosed length and some nuts (disclosed at 2:08), something to press-fit the nuts into the adapter (2:42), calipers with a depth probe (3:18), angle cutters that can cut PTFE tubes cleanly (3:58), and most importantly an extended stepper motor wire (4:37). Odds are you'll have all the hardware, but who has an extension for the stepper motor just laying around? So, if you follow this step by step without pre-watching it, you're fucked as soon as you get to this point - You've cut your tubing, you've rearranged the hardware, and you think you're all done. And then bam, you need additional wiring.
My apologies for the misdirection. I’ll change the description to include those items Pre-watch. Thanks for bringing it to my attention
@@JeDoVi3D I notice you said you would update the description, but then you didn't.
Can the hot end be made to go hotter to work with the latest higher temp filaments? They are selling refurbished Kobra Max's for $150 SHIPPED on ebay! going to grab one for shits and giggles....
Great video, straight to the point, no nonsense. That's how it's done!
Thanks!! Appreciate you watching!
Hey, I have a kobra max too!! with the Hero Me Gen 7 , there are a lot of parts... can you please comment the parts you used for this project? thank you :)
Contrats on your road to 1000 subs! So happy to see vids about Kobra Max conversion. Man, all those cables though. I do not want to make my own Dupont connectors.
Ya I’ve been so disappointed with this printer. Been the biggest waste of my money in years. I’ll have to look at your videos on this a bit more carefully to determine if I want to spend more on this train wreck of a printer. Thank you for your content. Keep it up boss!
on the layer selector, press right click on the bar and select "PAUSE", thats all lol!!!
Really good video, thank you. How does the hot end trip the x-stop trigger?
Thanks a lot. The latch to trigger the x-stop is on the bracket attached to the x-axis rail
@@JeDoVi3DI had to move my switch so the new rail wasn't covering it
Hey …..I’m new to 3d printing….i got a ender 3 neo and need some parts ( hotend assembly w/ wires also brackets to hold the middle rail )
Sweet vid bro, it was direct and crystal clear. keep them coming….👍
Thanks, will do!
Hopefully you see this post (Second time posting it) My only question is this? Does this affect the Z height of how far you can print something larger? (i.e...Doesn't it hit the top bar/track because of its setup?)
Was looking at the new cobra 2, but I’m hearing lots of complaints about the closed off firmware that not being able to print directly from a USB or web interface that isn’t proprietary as well as a hot end in bed that don’t quite get hot enough for certain materials. I’ve seen the original original cobra Max selling for $220 as a refurbished unit, would that be the better way to go and buying the add-ons or modifications to make it just what I want? I’m more interested in bed size than I am speed. What are your thoughts?
Nice work, great to see others improving the kobra max this got me set on my reviews channem
hey man, I didnt see link for the rails, I see too many models and sizes, could you share it? Thanks.
Use this link and pick the 600 mm rails amzn.to/3BI6qze
you'll need these as well amzn.to/483BA0k
My only question is this? Does this affect the Z height of how far you can print something larger? (i.e...Doesn't it hit the top bar/track because of its setup?)
hey man, this is a kobra 2 max? good job man, new sub ;)
Thanks for the sub! Much appreciated
Audio did not work
So sorry about that
Is it possible to do in the creality software itself? thats hard to believe
Yes, in creality print 2 it's under "Infill" and then, "Color Change"
Great video. Do you think it made a difference? Thank you
Absolutely. I run that printer at 10,000 mm/s acceleration, and it prints beautifully. Of course, my printing speeds usually range around 175 mm/s. But it's still quality at a faster speed
Great video, thanks on it. In case of CR Touch on Sprite Extruder Pro Kit. Could you tell something more? How to run? Is it necessary to configure something extra? I have an old Ender 3 (the first one), I bought Sprite Extruder Pro Kit, but I don't have any idea how to run CR touch on Marlin 2. 😂🤣
I usually run Klipper when I'm going to modify a printer. You should be able to download the firmware update from Creality once you installed the CR Touch. That should add the option for a Z-offset calibration. Also, don't forget to add M140 S1 to your start gcode after G28 in your slicer. That will make your print use the bed mesh
I have the similar upgrade wit 1st E3 "v1" + mcu v4.2.7 and nebula rooted pad. What is important Sprite DD extruder + BL touch is not supported by Nebula Pad directly. When you will power up printer 1st you are thrown into wizard, after choosing E3 + BL touch you are going to several tests.... you must skip test where calibration is needed. Then go into klipper and adjust all geometry include BL touch coords.... Sprite Extruder has got BL touch coords X31 Y41... then you have to measure bed dimensions.... etc.... 2nd Z motor is connected in parallel to Z output and is working fine for me. Fine tuning is needed then it works nice... keep morors engaged when replacing filament to not move z motors accidentally. BTW nice video
Thank you so much for making awesome content on the cobra max!
Thank you for watching. Definitely appreciate it
I missed the video but now I can see it well, thanks, it has very good technical information
Ive got an old and used Ender 3 V2. I installed a full linear rail kit for x, y and z axes, installed a dual z drive, installed the sprite extruder pro, bought a new magnetic pei plate plus a smooth one, and flashed it with klipper using a sonic pad. Overall I paid about $500 for it. But it was fun to build it. Now on top of it, I ran some macros with speed tests, figuring out, that I can safely use 900mm/s during print without overheating, losing steps on the motors or disassembly. The only problem now is the fan cooling. This limits my prints to 450-480mm/s. Now let that sink in,... 480mm/s with a 500$ Frankenstein Ender 3 V2 and Orca Slicer ;)
To run CR Touch is necessary to have Sonic Pad? I have the same configuration as your (almost, because I'm printing on a glass), but I'm working on Marlin 2 and I don't know how to run auto leveling with CR Touch on sprite extruder kit. 😭
@@bsw6583 Usually you can edit or add gcode for marlin. I recommend using orca slicer or bambu studio for it. You would need to place it after G28,which is homing, then you add the code line G29 start auto bed leveling. In klipper you just add a macro from an existing library. There its in the printer command file and not in the g-code. (Please look it up on the net what the exact line was, I cant say it for 100% as it is a bit ago with Marlin.) Otherwise, I would try reinstalling the printer firmware. Yes, you may need to calibrate the extruder but it may help. In the long run I would upgrade to Klipper and sonic pad. You can use your old printers as the new ones with WIFI and live monitoring etc. Really cool stuff. Plus, its about twice as fast as on Marlin. Cheers.
@@coalachaos6486 Thanks a lot.
What hotend are you currently working with?
the Revo E3D quick change
Really well-done vid, can't believe you're under 1k subs! Hella underrated, hope your channel blows up one day (as much as one can, in the 3d printing space)
Wow that preety cool
Thank you!
Thanks for streaming this! It was fun to watch the day before installing the same Y carriage on my Kobra Max. Something that will allow you to bring your front tensioners back down is printing 4x the STL file that Sixx Precision has on the Printables link for the Y carriage that is labeled Belt Guide.3mf. You pop two m3 heatsets into each one and they go on the underside of the plate to keep the belt in proper alignment. Keep up the great work! Its fun to see someone else going down a similar path with their original Kobra Max.
Thanks! 👍👍
Superb video 👍🏻
Would be grateful if i can have a look at your printer.cfg to use as a example for mine. Unable to get it working & not many info on Anycubic Printer converting to Klipper online.
I tried to find the settings you pointed out but since the UI changed I'm unable to locate what you show in the video
Thanks mate 👍🏼👌
Printer.cfg?
klipper config file
I’ll update the video with the link for the one I’m using now
@@JeDoVi3D I have one working with klipper and the skr e3v3, I wanted to compare the configurations... mine seems to be working fine at the moment. The only detail is that I send the printout and I have to go close to the machine and have it printed...it's not going straight from the slicer
Hello sir, i have anycubic kobra go, the nozzle temperature is stick in 130 and not going hight or less its just between 130-140, idk what the problem i just change the thermistor and still not working
Maybe It's the wiring going to the motherboard itself. I'm still troubleshooting as we speak. My apologies for the silence at the end of the video
@@JeDoVi3D can I put another motherboard into it!? Because i cant find kobra go motherboard anywhere
@@3derbil BTT SKR3 V3 will work. I have a heavily modded Kobra here. You will have to run new wiring from board to hotend tho.
@@ResetInPeace does it need new screen to or just working in kobra go screen !?, I change both wire thirmostor and the other wire for heating still not working
Great, easy to follow vid. Thanks a mil, you have a new sub in me.
Can you make a list or a video of the parts you printed for the hero me on the kobra max?
Sorry about the delayed response. I will update that and let you know when it’s complete
@@JeDoVi3DI was also curious about this I wanted to make sure I had everything printed before I take the machine apart
This is no longer necessary. In the new creality slicer you can right click on the layer bar and just add the pause command. Happy printing
You’re absolutely right
hola como se hace para agregar el comando de pausa?
Calling a 52 minute benchy a speed demon is kinda hilarious how wrong it is any modern printer hardware at 50% speed does less than 30 lol, avg modern would be <20
Not the smoke alarm beeping 😂
Lol I really gotta change the battery 🤣🤣