Відео

Probably someone already told you that, but you mounted the printed 80-tooth gear the wrong way - those 5 mounting screws should be facing their heads into the M4 body, not outside.

why is bro printing directly on the bed?! where's the class bed or magnetic plate?

Very nice project! Would you say it was worth it? Did you get better prints after that versus the original setup? Thanks

Tempting project!

One of the most authentic and practical video about 3d printer upgrades.

9😊😊

When i check the Voltage in my , z and Y potentiometers they all have 24v. is that possible? everyone says theyv got 1.5v or something like that and i meassure 24v or 23.5v what am i doing wrong? (I have an ender 3 s1)

I got Ender 3 V2 for kickers. I was insanely astound about 1 motor Z-axis. I just printed brackets and used one old unused motor and rod/nut parts I had lying around. Then just wired to original motor. Has worked just fine in parallel. Also changed to some 3rd part PEI sheet, stiffer springs and BL-touch. Machine as been on quite low use I have mk3s which is my main go to. But I should still definitely change that ender to direct drive, which is why I'm here.

Does anyone know the Klipper version of this?

How did you set z axis motor voltage?

I changed out the extruder motor on my Ender 3 Pro with a very similar one to the one you have and was a bit baffled why it was so hot... after watching some other videos I concluded it was probably the voltage being too high (comming off of that chonker that it had.. which I moved to the x-axis and am wondering if its voltage might too low over there now 🤔), but like you mentioned, it's pretty hard to find information on how to modify it or what numbers to use... would be nice if there was a resource where you could just plug in the different things and get what you needed to modify and how, but I imagine something like that would be kind of hard to get functional with how much different hardware is out there.. still, if anything like that does exist out there, I'm all ears

I spotted something that didn't quite look right here and I feel the need to speak up. You say at the 2:35 mark that the current sense resistors are 150, but when talking to someone who may not know much about electronic engineering, that could lead them to think that the resistors are 150Ω. What's important to note is that the only time a letter is printed on an SMD resister (It's always an R) is when the letter represents a decimal point. This means that the Current Sense Resistor values aren't 150Ω, they are 15mΩ or 0.15 ohms. If the R is in between numbers, then that is where the decimal point goes. EG: 1R50 would be 1.5Ω If the R is not present, the there is no decimal value, but you still must be careful how you read the resistor number. It is displaying in whole values, but not like you think. The last digit isn't directly part of the number, but a sort of multiplier. It indicates how many zeros to add to the end of the first two digits. For example: R015 would be .015Ω or 150µΩ R150 would be .15Ω or 15mΩ 1R50 would be 1.5Ω or 1.5mΩ 150 would be 15Ω 151 would be 150Ω 152 would be 1500Ω or 1.5kΩ 153 would be 15000Ω or 15kΩ 154 would be 150000Ω or 150kΩ 155 would be 1500000Ω or 1.5MΩ 156 would be 15000000Ω or 15MΩ 157 would be 150000000Ω or 150MΩ 158 would be 1500000000Ω or 1.5GΩ (Standard resistors very rarely go this high) 159 would be 15000000000Ω or 15GΩ The reason they're written like this is because the numbers can get pretty big pretty fast which would make it very difficult to print the number on the tiny resistor. To express values from tiny to even these huge numbers, they only have to print 3 or 4 characters on the chip resistor. One omission I left out from the table above would be of you needed to express a number like 15.3Ω, it would be on the chip as 15R3. When expressing decimal values is the only time the last digit doesn't indicate number of zeros, but instead, the direct number. The reason they use an R instead of a decimal point is because the decimal point may be too small to read on the chip. You can experiment reading different resistor value codes using this tool: www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/smdcalc.php

👍💓!!!

None of the links work.. takes me to new machines not the parts

I printed my Enderwire parts out of Atomic PETG Pro and Atomic carbon fiber PETG Pro and they came out great. I don't understand why Voron still recommends ABS. It has all the downsides of Nylon with none of the benefits, is weaker than PLA, and you can get the same heat absorption from ASA, or pretty close with the CF-PETG I'm using.

[uses more power] whut? LEDs? 😂

2:50 Is this because the cable is spliced to both motors? so you have to account for the extra(voltage)?

For the elephant foot issue, I found that simply calibrating your e-steps and taking the average diameter of the filament you're currently using and inputting that into your slicer filament diameter box has completely eliminated the need for elephant foot compensation.

My OCD with those wires 🚀

Easier way to cut the tube put the hot end on with out the heatblock then cut the tube at the end of the heatbreak

how did you printed the face mask? oreintation ? and is that something you printed from ender 3v2 or U glued it ?

And where can i find the files for it?

What stepper motor for the extruder should i use for the ender 3 v2?

Link download File 3D printer Bro

If I add a second Z stepper in parallel what should the Vref be without damaging the driver chip?

Ten extra upvotes for the lead extruder.

i just installed an anti backlash kit on the z screw thingy to try and get rid of some Z issues, right now, for some reason which i cannot understand one side of my bed doesnt level, even if i manually level it and it feels level, it'll be way off on the left side, and it wont print anything that isnt in the center of the bed, i dunno what the heck is going on, aside form taking it all back apart and re building myself (i didnt build it, my friend did) i have no idea what the issue is, a calibration cube printed perfectly, besides a tiny elephants foot, i am now going to try an dual z kit, maybe something is warped with my printer (ender 3 v2) i have an used ender 3 i got for cheap but i need to flash the firmware and i'm scared to mess it up :(

Good evening.. and where can I get stl files for printing?? Thank you..

Where did you get the stl

Where did your change your Z motor voltage reference after the Dual Z-axis upgrade? How do you determine the new voltage? Also, Great video, well broken out into stages and lots of good info about what helped your prints and what was just cosmetic.

The stealthburner can be build with the same eletronics from the afterburner? Why not? 😂

Just finished successful upgrade on my Ender 3 V2 with a sherpa mini and dragon high flow hot end - I thought the motor was dead, but this really saved my butt! Thanks!

02:45 $I_{RMS}$: RMS or root mean square current. For sinusoidal oscillations, the RMS value equals peak value divided by √2. In this case, it must be 1.5/√2≌1.5/1.41=1.06383 I was suspected about something with the information on *sinusoidal oscillations* (which I got from *google* ). Just as a side note, I would like to add that √((1/(2π))∫(k×sin(x))²dx)=k/√2 for k>0.

Do you need the pancake stepper motor or does it work with the stock motor?

Looks heavy..

What kind of layer fan do you use with afterbunner?? Can i use a noctua fan??

Good video!

Hi. Nice Video. It gives me the confidence to make a Voron Toolhead for my own Ender 5. One question though. Where did you get the Fusion360 file that you show where the screws and all the components af shown?

thanks very much

your parts are hard to fit togheter because your printer is not calibrated right....

Manco

MASZ MOŻE stl do tego projektu

Hey, I know this video is a year old now but am I able to set that offset in an app like pronterface? I really enjoy the look and utility of this mod but really can’t get it to work without this and the firmware I’m using is a creality provided on that I’m really attached too. Thank you for these videos, they really help simplify this project

What slicer settings did you use for the stealthburner? I have it on my Ender 3 aswell but I can’t seem to find the right combination of settings for it.

Super interesting, thank you for sharing this!

Do u change the v ref on the main board?

hi, I've a question... to place the corner bracket, do you remove the Z-Axis sensor?

Lol, nut covers

Great video! Very helpful! Your attention to detail is incredible. Thank you!

I have a stock Ender 3 v 2 with Bowden tube upgrade bl touch magnetic bed and I get better prints than this.