Відео

Thanks Hans, yes, the jib needs replacing as the leech has stretched over 44 years. I've now cut some slack from the bottom of the jib, and added a kicker like the original plan, but this is a bigger sail than the original and comes right down to the deck, so doesn't get enough kicker angle to the jib boom. Really needs twin sheets to work properly.

Not a Rapier,- given a Stiletto plan and totally re designed it, lengthened it, and built it a conventional way ( frames, stringers etc) with a removable cabin.

They have had different displays about 3 yearly, Check the Tino Rawa Trust website (NZ) for upcoming events.

Liquid is 50/50 glycerin and water. Container is alloy electrical box with gasket on the lid. Printer element is inside a slightly larger diameter brass tube with holes in it, and it is sealed in the box with the element. The box is packed with cotton wool all round the element before the lid is sealed and screwed shut. Needs a small 6v air pump to force the smoke out. Cotton wool is soaked completely in the fluid, and is filled through the exhaust (or another plug in the lid)

Hi Michael, the motor is a brushless inrunner, and uses an aircraft ESC (one direction no reverse, throttle stick operates in full range, no center. ) and the bucket does the reversing. Bucket is just operated from a toggle switch on the transmitter. Reversing bucket was something I designed and added myself. I did have it on a rotary switch, but swapped it to a toggle switch. You can see it operating in this vid, ua-cam.com/video/7FSLHZ5nMLE/v-deo.html just flicking the switch backwards and forwards. Throttle can be in any position for switching to reverse. Bucket is not connected to reverse,- totally independent

I used a ball type universal from a car driveshaft . Not the best as the driveshaft from the motor needs a bearing in the transom, but it shows it could work. Won't need much movement to turn a boat well.

Taken from the beach near the display

Usually sail in the park and ride Silverdale, Millwater sports ground carpark, or on Orewa beach.

@@jrbaeronz9840 your land yacht looks very nice, puts my one to shame. You will have to try Mangawhai estuary at low tide on a windy day, Im up there on the weekends, let me know and i bring my one.

Hi Johnny, I've added a new picture series showing the new mount method, hope it helps. Not sure if you have the same countershaft setup as mine has, but it might give you some ideas. ua-cam.com/video/-kDGj7Hv6jQ/v-deo.html

Hi, I'm in Red Beach Auck, what area are you in ?

@@jrbaeronz9840 Inglewood Taranaki, 1 Chap is in Cambridge, a couple in Hawera, Stratford and 1 in New Plymouth.

That's a shame, bit far away for a drive unfortunately, but if anyone's coming up north we could arrange a meeting.@@helis9019

Hi John . Yes it is a pity we are so far away from each other, and it is difficult organising meetings as you have no idea how what the weather is going to do. I would be interested to know what people is for sail material. I have used very light silk type mateial which is good but difficult to sew with my limited experience. I have found celophane quite succesfully and used double sided tape for joining. Most of the sails are 1430mm high but some are bigger and some shorter. I 3d printed a wing sail which was very fast, BUT only in ideal conditions, so got a lot more work to do on that one. Cheers Sid @@jrbaeronz9840

Hi Sid, I've just used black art card, coated with aircraft dope, with reinforcing strips/battens glued on,. Been working well for a while now and has had a thrashing and stayed together. Was supposed to be a test sail, but is working ok so I've left it for now. I bought some rip-stop nylon to make the proper sail with, but haven't needed to use it yet. The sail is only 1m tall and is for strong winds up to 20knots +, the idea being to run it on the beach for speed runs. Haven't had the best conditions lately with constant offshore winds, but might be better in summer. Only been up to 22kph so far, so need better winds. Thought of experimenting with a wing sail as well. Recently added negative camber which helped a lot with preventing tipping. There is a video of it running on the beach in my YT vids if you haven't seen it,- 3km of beach to use !. Regards JB@@helis9019

Hi, the yacht now has negative camber on a slightly wider back axle, which has helped a lot with stability. Mostly just drifts now on tarmac when turning hard, instead of the occasional tip over. Unfortunately there is not much interest in model boating of any type here these days (more in full size being a yachting nation) as kids have their phones glued to their faces, and are not interested, plus the lack of ponds to sail on ,- hence my decision to have a crack at RC land yachting, (fly RC planes and run scale RC boats as well). Sort of inspired by guys with Blokarts who run them on this beach at times (3km long). It's a lot of fun as you say, and creates a bit of interest each time I run mine. I am surprised at how many people ask what it is,- never heard of land yachts. Team NZ now holds the world speed record for a land yacht, so you would think they would know. Would be great to have races like you do. I use a Sky RC mini GPS (about the size of a matchbox) which gives me the speed and distance covered . Any videos of your yachts?

I bought it from Ali Express. (Pyfor branded) Unfortunately they no longer have product numbers or I could direct you to it, but if you search under 'rc car sound module' you will find a selection to hunt through. It's one with 2 speakers. The GT Power modules are pretty good, but a lot more expensive, but they have dozens of sound choices. This one is pretty cheap but does what I want for this model. I have it limited to about 30% on a separate channel on a second receiver (caused problems using the supplied siamesed throttle wire on the main receiver) so it doesn't sound ridiculous at high throttle. One of my speakers died after I fitted it, but I cut open the main control box and found it just had a broken wire (wires are not secured well and can pull off the soldered connections ) They don't like low voltage either, (go haywire) and need at least a good 8v minimum.

Converted to electric about 10 yrs ago, and had a couple of rebuilds since. Balsa's a bit brittle now.

Hi Richard, I'm sure you will be able to adapt something to fit. The slides on these are not too accurate and have no decent scale, and are 'measurement intensive', so maybe a Myford one might be made to fit. A good hobby lathe all the same. I'll be interested to see it running when you get it sorted.