Відео

Right, Don't need no Stinking Water. BBF Power !

mine definitely could but i got too much wheel hop, hoping to get traction bars to fix that next summer, i got new tires so i dont wanna ruin them ;)

Some did and some didn't. You have to use Dakota digitals little proprietary control box. But ultimately you have to add their water temp sensor and maybe one or two more. It wasn't bad.

Awesome! This one is now battleship grey with a 12v cummins. It can smoke 37's now. The original paint job in the video was fading but it was still pretty sweet!

@@buildsnburnouts6046 did you ever have issues with your rear abs? My yellow rear abs light comes on after cranking. Wondering if I have a wiring issue or if my tone ring is bad in the rear. I replaced the sensor and it fixed it for a day then returned

If you get the correct single cab long bed chassis you do not need to section the frame.

Medford Oregon

@@buildsnburnouts6046 @ do u need spacers? At all wheels?? Is it too narrow the s10??

The s10 is too narrow front and back. You need to use spacers on all the wheels depending on your backspacing. You could also switch to a 4wd rear end which may eliminate the back wheel spacers.

@@buildsnburnouts6046 @ agree,, i dnt lije too narrow, looks like a lowrider,,,😩😩 What’s the other option??

Lol, I forgot to air up one of the front tires and it turned hard into the fender of the trailer before bashing down on the ramps. Luckily nothing got damaged!

I thought it would be complicated but once you figure out the general idea it wasn't too bad.

@@buildsnburnouts6046 I just pulled my cab and chassis in the garage, going to start rebuilding the motor I got. But after I strip the chassis and lay it over the frame this is exactly what I plan to do. Especially the hand pump, keep it nice and simple.

Yep, I was concerned about lifting the cab if I had a dead battery. It turned out great and isn't any harder than jacking a car off the ground. Make your ram mounts super beefy! I believe I ordered to 3/8" offroad shock tabs and welded them together on either side of the mount for a total of 4 per end. I ripped off a few prior to that and broke or bent some lesser bolts.

@@buildsnburnouts6046 I just really need to figure out what length to get for a ram, Guess I will get to that point once I start mocking up

Truck turned out to be a great driver. Kept the 4.3 v6 and the 4l60 transmission. Drives just like a 2000 s10.

This was a customer's car and it took about 9 months. It could go faster but he wanted to keep the 4.3 and 4l60 and i wanted to keep the factory wiring harness and steering column for reliability. If you went with a 350/th350 it'd be much quicker.

285/70/17

I really enjoyed that engine, especially when I swapped in the 5 speed with it. It would have been fun to add a turbo to it.

There is a detailed build thread here. Basically all the cables, wires and brake lines have to move with the hinge point. The truck is on the road now. www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1955-white-3000-coe-hauler-build.1176462/

@@buildsnburnouts6046 Thank you very much. I also bought an f550 for the front and rear end. I appreciate your help here. Looking forward to end my project! I am doing it with a 1964 ford COE.

@@josetapaia3945 interesting, send me a link if you can. Only problem was the oddball lug pattern... depending on the year it was difficult to find wheels for. Finally adapted it to a 22.5" rim but it wasn't cheap.

@@buildsnburnouts6046 Absolutely. As soon as get around it I will. This will be my first built. My F550 is a 2008. After this one I will do the same with my 54 Chevy COE and last my 64 International Loadstar. I appreciate your help.

Lol, it was rubbing the drivers tire when steering in this video. I re made the bell crank so it now it goes lock to lock without rubbing. Much better now!

The frame is the stock 1955 White frame. It's nice and beefy with tons of real estate to mount whatever drivetrain combo you want in there. Never understood why you would frame swap it. The 12v cummins fit nicely and the f550 axles weren't very hard to get under it as well. Mine was a flathead straight 6 mustang engine with the electric cab tilt. The electric ram was missing so I could never try it and the wiring was pretty ugly as well. We did get the flathead 6 running and it purred like a kitten until we yanked it. The clutch and brake hydraulics were too weird for me to be able to get them rebuilt to drive around the yard.

The detailed build thread is here... if you still have questions shoot me an email Buildsnburnouts@gmail.com www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1955-white-3000-coe-hauler-build.1176462/

my email is ovth48@ yahoo.com

Thank you, it was a customers car. Runs great with all the factory wiring and fuel injection. He still drives it 3 years later with no problems.

I thought it would die eventually but I finally sold it as a runner to a guy for a couple hundred bucks. Great engines!