Відео

The one that came with the car is 8amps. No options to change the amperage. However it does seem slighly more efficient at 8amps than my 15 amp EVSE charger set to 8amps. Charging battery at 1.5kW (with byd charger). However I mostly use the EVSE on the 15 amp setting charging battery at 3kW.

The only setting Im aware of is setting the time to charge. I would assume you could set your wall mounted chargers amps? Have you tried charging at a public (slow)AC charger? I wonder if you'd have the same problem.

@@EVswitch I tried to charge from slow ac public charge and the same thing was happened

@@magdytawfik-tf4fl I think it might be a problem with your car. I'd suggest talking to BYD. I read somewhere it might be a charge controller problem.

@@EVswitch thanx you

The V2L on my Atto3 is only about 2kW so only installed one outlet where it would be most needed. I'll certainly look into what you're recommending though.

Where did my reply go with the link to the inverter?

No brains mate

Cool. That's interesting. What brand is your home battery? Is it BYD too?

@@EVswitch The cells are Winston (24 300ah cells configured as 3P8S). I’ve had them running our house off grid for 6.5 years. The battery management system is an ElectroDacus SBMS 120. The 35 solar panels are selected as required by another device to maintain constant charging throughout the daylight hours.

BYD have an app for tracking the charging progress of the car. Not individual cells or cell voltages or anything like that, just the overall state of charge.

@@TheHuesSciTech Thanks, but I have the Yuan Plus which has the original software, which I am told by the very unreliable seller of the car, is not updatable and therefore the app won't work!

It's possible. But would take up a lot of luggage space for panels and inverters etc. Check out Power of Light's channel. He did a coast to coast trip across the USA in a Tesla only powered by his portable solar panels. youtube.com/@solarcannonballrun?si=iQv4-4zKEaWI0UPW

Yeah, I probably wasn't too clear on that. I had just over 4% of the battery according to the "guessometre" on the dash, so that added about 2.5kWh. So it was an estimation of current capacity. There might be a better way of doing it.

@@EVswitch I have done a test fowwing your method on a New Seal and I was hopping to share the details with you as I am getting some no so good results. How best to communicate in private if possible to share the info?

I'd say this is dependant on an accurate SoC. I tried to be as accurate as possible by charging to 100% the week before getting it under 10% then calibrating to 100%. Also I just worked out a better way to calculate this although it's much the same. kWh charged / % charged x 100 = usable capacity. So for me it's 55kWh/95.7% x 100 = 57.47kWh. Then can find percentage of original capacity (ie. 100/60.4 x 57.47 = 95.15%) you could probably - or + 1% from this too as only displayed the nearest kWh (rather than Watt hours). feel free to email your details at h264bluris20@gmail.com

With the OBD2 device you should have instructions on which apps will work with it. I'm using Car Scanner ELM OBD2 with Android. My Veepeak VP11 model doesn't work with iOS. In the instructions it says you should choose the Bluetooth LE (4.0) model for iOS.

Haven't tried with the Seal, and the profile doesn't seem to be listed in the app. Maybe try the BYD OBD2 basic sensors profile? Can confirm works with Dolphin though.

Thank you. If you have a link to the info, that would be interesting.

@@EVswitch Inferening from time 26mins 43sec. from ua-cam.com/video/9tIEvA-Mb84/v-deo.htmlsi=LTj0JunnTuHmPh5T

Good idea. As long as it's a small split system I can imaging that's possible. I've powered a portable air compressor system overnight ok.

Yes, I think you'd be fine doing that. However (disclaimer) BYD recommend charging to 100% once a week. Personally I get my SOC up to 100% once every 2 to 3 weeks. The LFP battery in the atto3 is far more forgiving charging to 100% than a NMC battery, so I wouldn't be too concerned charging to 100% more often. Just don't leaving it sitting on 100% for days.

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I was in Germany in 2007 and was impressed with all the solar panels I saw as I traveled by train through the countryside. In 2007 Australia had hardly any renewable energy, but in the last 10 years it has grown hugely, and now in South Australia we reach nearly 100% wind and solar often in the middle of the day. It's great to see. My sister has bought a BYD Dolphin and she loves it. She knows a lot more about electric cars than me and has converted a car to electric in the past. I plan to do a video with her soon. So look out for that one.

Great, then you know Europe too😀. In Germany, electricity generation from renewable energies rose to 56 percent in 2023 and we often have overproduction and a lack of storage. A video about your sister's Dolphin would be great. I would also be interested in the consumption and range. BYD only states 7 km more range for the WLTP than for the Atto 3. That can't be true. How are your maintenance costs? In Germany 1st year approx. 400, 2nd year approx. 780 €. I think BYD is crazy. Maybe independent workshops are a solution. The guarantee remains intact. BYD does a lot of things really well with its cars, but there is no usual consumption overview of the last trips. There was enough time to program it, so what does BYD want to hide, what do you think about it?

@@ullischnulli9614 that seems very high for maintenance. Here the average is under $300 per year. Although I got my first one complementary.

@@ullischnulli9614 I think there is a way to reset the consumption graph. And it also can show your average consumption for the last 50km on the small screen.

​@@EVswitch Resetting is good. That's enough too. Thanks.👍

Yes, I would have thought so. I guess their logic was they were only destination chargers. Fortunately the RAA Mt Gambier fast charger is up and running now. Thanks for watching 🙂

I plugged into the 12v (cigarette lighter) port. Fridge has 2 options 12v plug or normal power point plug which I use with v2L.

@@EVswitch just a question, though with the 12V where is the socket in the back of the car, as I don't have one, and was thinking do I need to get an extension lead for the 12V for it to run in the boot with the 12 V in the front of the car.

@@NicolaMs007 yes, that's what I do. Run a 12v extension from the front. Would be nice if there was a socket in the back.

I have the same extended range 60kWh battery. 480 is not real world range. I get about 420km for normal driving. On highways you'd get more like 360km. I was getting less (330km) because of heavier load and headwind. Got mine in 2022, which I'm pretty sure is same as the 2023 model.

@@EVswitch I actually done real range test of the Atto 3 am I get the full 480 Kms, don't know what you did to try it out though....are you using the dynamic range or the standard...as that would give you the 420 km range, as I discovered this few weeks back...

@@NicolaMs007 480 is very good. Depends on where you drive I guess. I have hills near me, and have averaged about 14.3 kWh/100km for all driving. What's your reading?

@@EVswitch Yes, I drive from my place on Lake Mac to Sydney and always lose 18% due to the highway driving, but there are few steep Decents on the way down, which put some charge back into the battery.... I have also priced an extension 12V lead from Jaycar and will be getting one for when I get my 12V Brass Monkey 15L fridge out of storage...it also contains a battery as well which can run for 2 to 3 hrs, but the 12V socket would be ideal, this way, I can keep it running all the time...keeping small bottles of water cold for my passengers...I have also checked out an 8 way switch for 12V lighting as I would be installing 6 led pod lights on the front roof rack, small STEDI lightbar on the front and fog lamps as well, all of which would operate from the one switch...but each individual light would have it's on fuse...

32 amps is fine. Any type2 charging is best for battery life. I just charge on 15amps because cheaper for my circumstances.

I mostly charge at 6amps which is the lowest setting on my "charger". When I need to charge faster I just up the amps to 10, 15 22 or very rarely the highest 32. This is for 2 reasons. I charge from my solar system, so I don't want to charge more than the system can deliver and put too much strain on my home batteries, but mainly because I firmly believe that effectively trickle charging the batteries for most of the charging, even though it's not the most efficient, is the better for the long term health of the battery.

Not exactly, but it was pretty minimal. Plugged into the 12v socket while driving and then V2L when camping. Manual says must have more than 15% SOC to use V2L. I'd have much higher to be safe as lost a few % overnight. Some of that would be the fridge, and also just having the V2L inverter on uses a bit. ( I've used the fridge in the past just with a deep cycle AMG battery and would last a couple of days. )

Nice colour, that green 👌

That would be cool. But I don't know of a simple way to view on your mobile.

Depends on the model. My Atto3 had the dash cam built in. In Australia the Dolphin and Seal don't come with it but an OEM BYD dash camera can be purchased relatively cheaply and installed yourself.

@EVswitch ok. That's strange that the other 2 models don't get it

@@Migster1965 Yeah, not sure why. I've heard it might have something to do with privacy concerns in some markets.

@@Migster1965 They also don't get the powered roof blind and powered glass roof, different pluses and minuses.

@@EVswitch They told me the same about the dashcam in the Atto 3 in Belgium. The dashcam is there, but can't be used to save videos, only for the 360° camera function. They told me this will most likely be added in the future, with an over the air update though.

Lol well no tesla have a better 360 dash cam system with 7 cameras all around, tesla also has sentery mode when parked 360 degrees also.

Thanks. I did post one, not sure they used it though.

😊 Thanks. Didn't really notice the state of change drop too much with fridge running and occasionally boiling the kettle. Overnight might have dropped 2%.

Thanks mate. Been wanting a wide brimmed hat for a while, finally found one I like 😊

Thanks 😘. Atto 3 certainly had plenty of power. Mostly thanks to the sun and wind 😊

Thanks for commenting. Yeah, It does seem we are getting more storms and power outages. I've used this on two occasions to keep the fridge on. But I have been using it quite a lot in the evenings for my TV too. It's essentially just an extension cable, so haven't had any rcbo installed. I guess protections would be built into the adaptor or inverter. But I'm not an electrical expert, so don't quote me. I think the power might be a little lower than 240v, perhaps 220v, but it still works fine. I've had the power trip a number of time when there was too much load. But I haven't had to reset anything. Just turned off the device overloading it, and the power came back on. I've heard of people using over 3kw with simple resistance devices, but I think that was with a modified adaptor.

I've looked at the instruction booklet that came with the vtl and it only describes overload protection not residual current protection (aka safety switch now known as rcbo). I believe that the latest electrical regs for new work require an rcbo on every circuit not just one for the house like the old safety switch. Even though this is power from the car and not the grid, the same principle applies. Might be something to check with your electrician. Looking forward to more video's - with local content. One about your portable charger would be good, as I went with a fixed 7kW charger to avoid forgetting to pack the portable one for a trip. I'll let you know how my vtl setup performs once it's installed.

@@tinymuddygecko Cool. Thanks for the info. I'll look into that. Yes, I'll have to do some more videos soon 🙂

Just that one power point in the kitchen. I could run additional extension cords from the V2L power board, but the maximum power is limited to around 3kW. I have seen a video where they powered the house using some sort of auto change over switch where it disconnects from the grid and uses the car instead of a generator. But that looked rather complicated. I just kept it simple. The future vehicle to grid technology sounds promising though. Shame the Atto3 doesn't have that.