Відео

Hello , it's been several years , the bike is now in parts and I sealed the hall sensor, I'm afraid i cannot tell you the model. I will take some more parts from it soon , maybe i could take a look, but no promises

Hello, well , that depends if it does anything to your bicycle , if it rides as normal , i would not worry about it. I have the bike but i do not ride it all that much, i think the battery icon been lighten up when motor produce electricity when moved backwards or for a short time when stop accelerating and the clutch inside motor still did not disengage. But this is very hard to judge and help like that, sorry.

All things considered - yes, as of right now there are better options from companies that have better history , when i bought it ,it was pretty much the only adequate choice if you want decentish , small ebike. What i liked about it is that everything (except for the fork, it is also standard but and old one ) is dead common and easy to swap if needed. Im planning to turn it into 3 wheel cargo bike this year because of it, its frame should fit nicely for that purpose , possibly will have to swap motor wheel as well , i want both my bikes to use 48volt system so i could use 2 batteries for long journeys :) Could be fun. But yes - bike is flimsy and has issues, fixable issues but issues non the less

And I truly appreciate your comment :) I stopped working on this thing but maybe one day i will return to it :) It was fun making this one

I think hall sensor is the one where the cranks are, there is this disc with cable attached to it , check if it is placed securely and in parallel to the frame. As well as check cables from it to the bike's brains. Hope that

hello, I have not tried it myself but the chance of that is high, maybe even just screwdriver to keep it always on :) maybe you can make a key for yourself , here are pictures of it photos.app.goo.gl/Syraz1U6D9KqXaxdA

Oh damn :) But glad I could help :) good luck with your new part

@@Alexander_Of_Pines thank you 👍

hello, good question, I did not had this problem and those who had it here did not reply of how it went, will suggest to you same thing I suggested to them - before making any serious assumptions , check all the cables, connections that everything connects as it should and no cables are ruptured, this bike has cable management issues , so start there.

i have not changed wheels , its all original

Thank you :) That is the best praise I could hope for , glad it's helping :)

@@Alexander_Of_Pines A huge help, thanks for sharing :)

it might be the same issue as displayed here, first try pedal assist mode , pedal a bit , if motor works then it is indeed the throttle. But first check all the cable connections to the brain box that is stored inside the frame , inside part that has rear wheel attached to it. Just make sure you marked which way the connection plate is attached to it (it can be connected upside down and cause short circuit) , if all cables are fine , nothing works , I guess you can start messing around with throttle as in this video

yes it is bolted on mine from the factory

It just goes , no pedalling needed , even tho bike would appreciate your input (consume less , accelerate faster and more reliably etc)

Hello, not familiar with D1 , but I guess as everything with this bike and probably others from Fiido - check the most obvious ones first - if the cables are properly connected , unplug-plug related connectors. Just make sure you remember how it was before, take pictures. As with D2 the battery connection plates can be assembled both ways (right and, mirrored, wrong) which would cause short circuit and burn something along the way. Then I guess check if the key-ignition actually works etc. Maybe others can help more, good luck.

Hello, In theory - yes, this bike has very standard dimensions , maybe the middle stand , which supports the bike while folded would cause troubles, but overall I think that is doable. The thing is that top speed might be low or "low" (about 25-32kmh), you might would want to swap the rear wheel I guess to not carry extra 2-3kg, and that motor would require a much bigger battery ( if you go for 750W motor ) , people on the internet say battery capacity should ideally at least match motor wattage , so 750Wh battery for 750W motor, Fiido stock battery is 280Wh at best. Overall I thought about it but frame battery in DIY kits is just too long and bike frame is too short for it. There are "Frog" batteries that clamp to seatpost, that should work tho. Good luck

@@Alexander_Of_Pines thank you very much Sir!!!

those should be thin wires coming from the motor, just connection of these to controller box and their condition as they go to the motor, it helped some people. This bike has poor wiring and connection of wires , so would suggest checking them first for all problems

I think I just draw a line and counted amount of rotations for a single full rotation of the crank :) But at the same time I do not really remember all that well now. Thank you for your kind words :)

Hi :)Usually those errors find you rather than you find them :) they appear when it all kind of works but kind of doesn't and controller disables motor for one or all modes until problem is fixed. Can you please describe it a bit more of how it turns off? So there is some state when its on? voltage seems good , I would only suspect battery if that voltage drops like a rock under load, maybe try to lift the wheel and slowly use throttle and see it would spin the wheel then

@@Alexander_Of_Pines Its looks like when bike is fully charged, it can ride about 5-10km. Then green indicator is turning off and bike stop. Next move is restart, looks like fold/unfold bike's frame. Then green indicator can be turned on, and i can ride a little more without full throttle.Then repeats often and often this actions and finally nothing happens and go home with Full Pedal Mode)

@@jumpier4544 when bike shuts down those green light flashes ? by the sound of it , to me it looks like it is undervoltage protection, when you accelerate , voltage drops and when it reaches certain voltage protection kicks in and shuts motor down to protect the battery. If you get 10km on throttle only without peddaling and bike is 1 year+ old of heavy use it might be just battery degradation. I always pedal and try to be easy to throttle and i get like 15-20km of range right now , down from 30 when i bought it, it can be more if i do many 2-5km trips rather than one continues one...

@@Alexander_Of_Pines no green flashes. but i think i find why my bike stop, sometimes voltages is changing 32->36, 36->32. Some 18650 group may be disconnecting for a while. Undervoltage, you are right. I try to disassamble battery. PS i 80% pedal too, cause 250w its not a lot of power) but i uses only in a bike mode

@@jumpier4544 cool , I hope you will be able to fix it :) this bike is cheap for a reason but everything about it is fixable :) good luck

Hi, list says phase line , it suppose to be thin cables that go along thick ones from controller to the motor, check them on controller side if everything is connected properly. Cable management of this bike leaves a lot to be desired... in 95% of errors - check the cables , make sure they are properly connected. Hope that helps :)

Hi, the phase line faulty according to the list then huh... My shallow knowledge tells me that "phase" is a type of positioning measurement part of the motor , so it knows where the rotor of the motor is and what coils to activate. Kind of explains it why it moves a little bit, just to confirm I guess you can somehow put rear motor in the air, use throttle a little bit and rotate wheel with other had (carefully tho, I don't want to be responsible for snapped fingers :P ) , probably wheel should rotate a bit or properly every portion of rotation. TLDR: If wiring was repaired, check it again, probably what controller says with 7 flashes is "I cannot see where the motor's rotors is ! I'm afraid i will activate wrong coils (and make wheel slow down/stop or rotate backwards) , so I will just give up completely" There are power wires going to the motor and then some thin ones for phases , like 3+4 or something, check those guys out. Hope this brings any help to your problem :)

Hello , its probably undervoltage protection and battery shutdown. If you do it but slowly and it works and only restarts when you go full throttle from stand still - im 98% sure its exactly that. Thats absolutely normal and safety measure , as battery state of charge decreases , so is the performance. This can only be fixed with beefier battery with larger amount of cells , so that load is shared more evenly among them. Overall try not to do that as it hurts the battery afaik. Battery likes to be within 20 and 80 percent of its capacity :) Safe riding

@@Alexander_Of_PinesI have tried twisting the throttle slowly aswell, also tried it with the assisted electric mode and I am still having the same problem... 2 bars and keeps restarting

@@b5ktas okey, but i still think it's somewhat normal, mine learned how to never reach undervoltage and it just "accelerates" very slowly until there is only noise and nothing else. I only got undervoltage protection once on very first day with this bike. So dunno, if you compare mine and yours bike then its an issue , if we just look at it as whole, its not. The bars near throttle are hardware tied to battery voltage with resistors or something (im not great at it) , I checked it when i tried to fix the throttle as in this video , so it shows just 1 to 1 how battery feels. It shows 4 bars , so about 40 volts you twist it and motor puts pressure on battery lowering the voltage to 32 or whatever it is and bars drop to 2. In my case if i have 2 bars with no load it pretty much means i have like 1-3 kilometers left. If bike barely moves you just before it restarts, I would say - its just battery is completely depleeted

oh man thats a tricky one , I think with one guy we concluded that its the battery , but at the same time battery does not talk to controller , there are only plus and minus cables going from it. For bare minumum just check the cables around. Maybe it will fix itself. Im not sure what to suggest here. Controller is rather cheap maybe swapping it is also an option

can you please define how things look when you try to turn it on? like light work but not the motor or nothing works? If completely everything does not work then usually with all electronics , first just check the most simple stuff - does cable connect? does power on button actually work? etc , then it can move to more complex stuff like controller

@@Alexander_Of_Pines its ok i have somebody coming out to fix it thanks for the help

@@dm.9721 no worries :) hope it will be fixed , summer is comming , better keep those wheels spinning :)

thanks for your comment , thats all could wish for by making this video :)

yep , that's great to hear :) my other video about error troubleshooting shows that's not everyone is that lucky , my throttle issue appeared on day 1, I haven't even ridden it once back then. I hope it will stay that way for you :) Enjoy your new ride :)

Hi, thats something new... I would assume it is when motor tries to rotate but cannot due to ...something ...like going steep uphill or brakes locked... so instead of rotating motor coils build a lot of heat, maybe that what they meant... But I guess your rear wheel rotates freely, maybe you can try lifting rear wheel and twist the throttle, will it rotate or not during 0 load? Overall no one asked this question before so there is no ready solution for that yet. Try with wheel in the air and maybe different modes (pedal assist and throttle) and maybe that show something. I must say im in no way professional electrician , just thinking out loud for what I heard/read about motors in general

Thank you :) glad to hear its all good with your bike , i might have battery problem indeed :(, need to check total range at some point again. I dont really want to invest into new battery as Im building new bike tho , so lets see how it goes.

Your observation is correct. Because your bike shares the same Battery Management System as ordinary e-scooter without pedals. My e-scooter consumes battery power very fast should I set it to the fastest "sport" mode at 25 km/hr with range of 13 kilometers. However, I can go much better range at 19 kilometers if I set to the next slower mode at 15 km/hr. The capacity of battery on my e-scooter is 5.2 AmpHr.

nah , that would ruin the whole point :) idea was that you print it , asseble it like lego and off it goes. Like in some sci-fi movie :)

this is brake sensor error, bicycle thinks that you pressing on brake lever all the time or sensor is malfunctioning, both front and rear brakes are connected to one port near controller box. Check cables that come from brake levers, check if anything make brake lever be pressed, even slightly. The sensor in brake lever is just a button that lever itself press against. hope that helps, issue is probably rather small, good luck :)

thanks :) I still work on it, I try to put a few hours a week into it when I can. I think my new gears are good as is, whithout grease as I put contact surface to a minimum, im working on new gearbox right now, want to try stepped planetary gearset, which gives greater ratio with smaller amount of gear (so less friction and less need of grease) yeaaaah, takes ages but i will get there... i will get there... :)

I did not relocate the sensor, I placed where it should have been from the beginning, make sure it stays deep inside this deep square tunnel that I illustrated. The magnet is inside part that you twist it seems and as you twist it, magnet goes along the sensor if sensor is not in the right place I assume it wont give same effect. Do you still get error message tho? if yes than something is not right with sensor position

@@Alexander_Of_Pines ok...this evening I will check again. Thanks in advance !

@@magobin4896 no worries, you can maybe just put sensor inside, turn bike on and off, and this way you will find which way is the right way, thats how I did anyway. Put it inside, on off the switch, still error? ok, the other way around, on off, no error? good, fix it in place :) its a bit tricky when everything is dingles around but manageable

Hey, to be honest I tried to disassemble it with no success, but you can try for yourself, I think even if everything will go really really bad , you can order a new one :) www.aliexpress.com/item/33031352578.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.21257957XXrEBW&algo_pvid=c0fa1b13-5279-4058-b386-02d609bb9010&algo_expid=c0fa1b13-5279-4058-b386-02d609bb9010-3&btsid=0b8b034516042604604902258e44ed&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Yeah I got it to wear it’s very sensitive an it still worked thanks to the vid I fixed it up an even the casing is snapped off the barrel of the key so the link is absolutely brilliant so cheap thanks so much fair play to you helping out everyone here on your comments helps out a lot keep up the great work fella thanks again

@@matthewoconnell7351 yeah , Im just a fellow owner of this bike like everyone else , this throttle issue happened for me on day 1 , I did not even left my house :)Had to google alot, so I thought I could help others :)

Silly question, but have you switched it on? most right position of horizontal switch on left side of handlebar? Overall pedal assist sucks on this bike as it is up to 14km/h or so, feels painfully slow. If you turned it on but it still doesn't work, is there any errors shown as in this video or any more details?

@@Alexander_Of_Pines I figured it out the PAS connector wasn't fully connected to the controller just had to clip it in works now ahahah, cheers

@@paddy9551 Hah , glad to hear that !:) I did whole reroute of cables on bike made them into one thick cable cluster , eased the zips , made them supportive , not crushingly tight. I feel like the way they did it the cables can pull each other too much when you fold the bike or turn the steering resulting in those disconnects...

mmm can it be that you are talking about the D2S model that has gear change lever? I own the single speed D2 tho, it might be that the codes are the same, count them on and look it up, hope that helps

@@Alexander_Of_Pines its only flash when i press throttle or when i use pedal assist

but how many times before pause?

@@Alexander_Of_Pines when i stop pedaling or when i stop pressing the throttle

@@RaysGaming28 So you use throttle and it starts flashing and when you don't it doesn't? But by "amount of flashes before pause" I meant like in the video we are commenting under , watch it again , at the begining I show that flashes can be counted , they are not for show, they are there to help user find where the problem at

Sorry my bad it's 3 flashes then it pauses I guess dc point is abnormal ... how do I locate that and fix it ?

Hey, well "more than 10" can be any number (or it might not be more than 10 to begin with), I would suggest to count them precisely, then we can try to figure it out. As for now , "more than 10" is 11, which is overvoltage protection, this kicks in when battery is about to get changed more than it supposed to be, it can be issue with battery management system or charger itself or batteries, and this requires to have voltage measurement tool of some sort to verify. I'm just a regular owner as you are so can help within my field of knowledge

@@arafatsahidi9820 sorry missed your message somehow, sometimes I do not really get notifications, and this last message somehow is inbefore mine :) Anyway, 3 flashes is something new, hmmmmm, lets try decipher chinese :) . Judging from my poor knowledge dc is Direct Current , which is the current type that is used in batteries (the only part of the bicycle to use it). Point....maybe they mean the battery controller (small box that is located in front part of the bike where battery is) or battery output is wierd. Abnormal usually means as I understood it - they have set an amount that part of the bike should report, for example the throttle issue I have here is abnormal because voltage output from it should be (if I remember correctly) more than 1 and less than 5 and 1.5 or something when on start, I had like 3 on start = abnormal. So I guess it means voltage current from the battery or into the battery is not what it should be within spec, to insure no further damage goes into bike - shut battery usage. If you dont want to mess with it or you lack skill, I assume you might want to take out everything that is in front part of the bike, so battery, its controller and battery charger and take it to some IT repair shop and ask them whats going on or maybe take the bike as whole so they can see the error. Hope that will help you in some way. Good luck :)

@@Alexander_Of_Pines Sorry mate I didn't pay attention at first it was making two flashes and I manage to fix the problem it was the break failure with my one, Had to fix the break leaver cable because it is electrical but once again thank you for your help appreciate it mate keep up with the good work :)

@@arafatsahidi9820 ah , so glad :) yeah 2 flashes are breaks , glad that you had this issue instead , it much better then any other :) bike is a lego indeed ... but upgradability is available , I seen people install 800w motors ;) maybe i will do that when battery dies :)

hey, if you have voltage meter you can check the results of your fixes , as far as i understood , damn I dont remember precisely but it should be like 1.8 volts on our bike and then you twist it and it goes to 3.8 or something. I tested it by unplugging throttle connector and taking it out of the bike and connectint the battery to the brains by unscrewing it and connecting it while bike is folded (BUT BE CAREFUL doing that! I marked those connection plates with screwdriver so i could see where is "up" and "down" on it. TLDR is, afaik, when you turn the key it does selfcheck , if it does not passes it it will flash those errors until you restart it , probably position is incorrect or inverted, and voltage is below/above nominal , try to flip the sensor that you glued or push it deeper inside or something . You can disassemble the throttle and push sensor back and forth and while holding at new postion turn bike on and off and try to figure out if there is position that it wont flash, once you found it , glue it together and it should be good , that way it wont require much disassembly or voltage meter tools, but knowing voltage would show you exactly whats going on. Here is a bit of info about voltage in the thing. www.electricscooterparts.com/throttletestingguide.html#:~:text=The%20output%20Voltage%20can%20be,and%20the%20throttle%20is%20good.

please note that sensor won't show voltage if its not powered , so you better try the simple method first as its the most safe one

I think this the "ring" thing near right side of crank , it sits on axle. I think I found people had this issue when I tried to solve mine, check the sensor-ring thing and cable that goes from it to controller box. It might be cable got disconnected or got bent too much from folding/unfolding and broke somewhere

which ring? the throttle unit?