Відео

Yep digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc12410/m1/35/ If you worked in a underground coal mine back in the day, the asbestos in that ring was the least of your worries. Well if that little ring failed then asbestos was certainly the least of your worries.

Not sure what kind of resurfacing you had done, but I'd say any kind of blister are not normal.

The definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.

yeah, contact Multi-Tech directly by phone and ask them for advice. I know they make different colors, which is more common for hot tubs. I just re did my steps this year, and I bought a new batch. It still took 30 drops. I got a little better results this time. I ground back a little further made sure I got rid of the debonded material. I'm not sure how strong it will be if you have structural cracks, this is really just a hole filler.

I just reworked my steps this yesterday, a couple of hints. Don't apply it too thick, it'll shrink and crack. If it's a deep hole it'll take two or three applications. The cure time at 22 drops is about 1 hr, whereas 30 drops is about 20-30 minutes, so because of the multiple layers I went back to using 30 drops. I was able to powerwash my steps in just 24hrs. Be prepared, this stuff is messy. You're going to get single use out of every mixing cup, stick, putty knife and set of gloves. I pretty much did all my finish work with 100 grit sandpaper, anything smaller is too much work. Good luck

This year I ordered some more paste and the tech told me, the correct mix is 22 drops/oz. So this year I'll test a batch at that mix and see how it goes.

22 drops/oz is too slow. Cure time is about an hour, I went back to 30 drops, cure time was about 20-30 minutes.

It hardens in about 5 minutes, so 24 hrs should be all it needs. That's just my opinion though, it doesn't come with any info. This year I ordered some more paste and the tech told me, the correct mix is 22 drops/oz. So this year I'll test a batch at that mix and see how it goes.

I just pressure washed my steps after just 24 hrs, no problems. Also 22 drops/oz is too slow. Cure time is about an hour, I went back to 30 drops, cure time was about 20-30 minutes.

Not that I'm aware of they're out of production. If you striker doesn't work, is it just a missing flint? Those can be bought.

Please... I the same answer ...

@@benjaminadolfofloresavila4928 Sorry, I don't know why it is, I just know this is what I found out.

Draining any pool is tricky. Depending on the amount of ground water you can damage an empty pool because it will attempt to float above the ground water. Best to talk with someone who knows more about it than me.

@@simplediy3727 Absolutely no crown or water surrounded by drainable stone to drain tile out to open air the only question would be if some of the backfill might fall when the pool walls relax from not having water

Yes the lamp works without the upper assembly. The upper assembly is what makes it explosion proof.

Yeah, definitely had to sneak that one past the wife.

Sorry, I don't know of any parts suppliers for any of the flame safety lamps. You'll have to find ones that were parted out then sold on line. However, since it's very difficult for the novice to tell the difference in various models, it will be challenging to find the right parts. If you're missing the Font from a Koehler (note the spelling of both) it's going to be really tricky. Good luck, thanks for watching.

The definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.

@@ImminentThreatDefense Thank you so much for the reply! OK, i'll use my Coleman white gasoline.

see the footnote at 3:33 Multitechproducts.com

Try using a pair of snap ring pliers.

@@ImminentThreatDefense Interesting, I'll give it a try.

see the footnote at 3:33 Multitechproducts.com

I think you're going to be disappointed by the amount of light you'll get out of these lamps. However, the definitive source is the Mine Safety Health Administration guide book "MSHA IG 15" in there you will see they state "The use of suitable fuels is most important. Because of excessive gumming motor gasoline is not suitable as a flame safety lamp fuel. Suitable fuels are uncolored, straight-run gasolines, having a medium distillation range of 90deg to 300 deg F." Straight-run gasolines are also known as Naphtha or white gas which is the generic name for Coleman Camp Fuel. I would recommend against using your flame safety lamp unless it's been inspected by someone with the appropriate skills.

That's a lithium grease, it's very light weight. I've seen it commonly used on small gears (particularly plastic ones). However, I wasn't trying to put the grease on the teeth but on the outside edge of the gear where it rubs against the inside of the bevel gear). I tried machine oil on this application previously and it disperses too quickly and the squeak returns. I got much better results from the lithium. Heavier greases, especially when mixed with dirt, can pack in the gear splines and cause poor tooth engagement and slipping like you describe. I haven't experienced any gear slippage as a result of using the lithium. But machine oil works as well, just doesn't last as long. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching.

@@ImminentThreatDefense Oh, okay, that's pretty cool! I might have to try that myself now!

At 3:08 I point to a small screw. Underneath the screw is a spring that holds the flint against the striker. Remove the screw and spring, insert new flint, then spring and screw. I've never replaced a wick but I think the only way is to insert it from the top and wind it in for its entire length.

Thank you, I am also mining engineer and don't plan on taking this in a hazardous area, but have it in our tiki bar along with my hard hat. Like to be able to demonstrate it as you don't see too many of these in south Florida! 😅