Відео

Glad it was helpful! There isn’t an opening designed specifically for cables, but I often do as you described and run a cable into it, and close the zips tight around it. Doing that with the hood closed over top I don’t think you’ll ever get any water making its way in at all.

Hi there, I’m not quite sure I follow your question, but if I follow correctly, the way I have it set up may be exactly what you’re asking/trying to do. By having the fuse box “turned on” only when the bike is on (which is how mine is set up, by using the tail light wire as the trigger to allow power to the fuse box), then the fuse box and all accessories don’t receive power as soon as the bike is turned off (or when the kill switch is activated). As long as you use a power source for the fuse box “trigger” that is only active when the bike is turned on, the outcome will be the same. Hope this helps.

@@N5Gunner oh ok , I'm scared to tap into a wire , so could I bypass that with a kill switch that connects directly into the battery, and then connect the fuse block to the kill switch. At that point connect all accessories to that fuse box connected to that kill switch, and the only way the accessories get power is when I hit the on button for the kill switch . I was wondering if that would work instead of cutting into wires . I'm srry I'm not good at explaining these things lol I'm new to all of this .

I see what you mean, a new switch that you’ll add - I thought you meant splice into the kill switch button on the motorcycle. I think that would work, but the downside is that the fuse box and accessories could still drain the battery when the switch is turned on. For me, the primary benefit of the fuse box was having it automatically turned off when the bike is off. If you add a separate switch as the trigger and have it wired directly to the battery, if you leave that switch on, the fuse box will keep drawing power even when the bike is turned off. If you don’t mind that, then it would work, but if you want all accessories to stop receiving power automatically when the bike is turned off, you’ll want to use a “trigger” power source that is only active when the bike is turned on (in my case, I used the taillight).

@@N5Gunner ohhhh ok. I'll try the tail light.. thanks man I appreciate it !!!!

No problem. I recommend a butt splice where you can cut the tail light wire and then add a new bit of wire that will run to the fuse box trigger.

Glad you found the video helpful. It’s still the primary tankbag I use on my motorcycle, and I also just completed a second 14+ day tour around the Alps with it, and it continues to be great. Can definitely say it’s completely waterproof, I’ve used it in many downpours with zero water ingress. The only downside (in my opinion) is still the fact that you have to loop the one strap through/around the front forks. If you like/need to remove the bag from the bike often (e.g. multiple times a day during trips), then this might be a dealbreaker. It’s still easy to remove, but just a bit finicky depending on the bike, which makes it a hassle if doing it multiple times a day on a long trip. Thanks

Thanks so much for the kind comment Karl, really appreciate it. I don't have the best equipment but still tried to make a well-polished video, thanks!

Thanks for watching - they’re SW Motech EVO racks!

Yes, no problem standing with it. Knees squeeze the tank much lower, and it doesn’t get in the way of the body when leaning forwards (for me at least)

He’s pretty tall, I don’t know exact height but around 6’3” I would guess!

I used 12AWG for the primary connections to/from the battery/Auxiliary fuse box, and smaller gauge for the individual accessories connected to the fuse box. Hope that helps.

And it's not all accelerating either, nor is it taking you to the red line to change gear. Furthermore, the traction control is still activated.

Glad the review was useful for you! Agreed, the front strap is the one glaring issue with his bag, otherwise it’s fantastic. I still use this tank bag to this day, and it is brilliant, and taking the bag on and off is not terrible, although it would definitely be nicer with a better design. My bike also has a fair amount of room to maneuver the strap, so a bike with much tighter space around the front stem would be more of a challenge. Thanks for watching!

I suppose I could modify the strap fairly easily & fit clips to both sides, tossing up between this & the slightly smaller Nelson-Rigg SE-3060 Hurricane tank bag

You're absolutely right - you'll see that after a few tries I realized this and talked about it in the video - the bike can just about hit 60mph by redlining first and second gear, and saving the time of one extra gear change. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for watching and for your comment! First, if you haven't already, I'd recommend reading the video description, where I've laid out the wiring in as much detail as I could. Let me know if the description helps answer your questions, and if not, I can try to answer them here in a different way. Thanks!

@@N5Gunner I still have one more question. So the 12 gauge wire positive and negative run from the battery to the main relay next to your fuse box? (this is not the aux light relay I am asking). And from the relay to the positive and negative terminals from the fuse box, correct? If that so, then the 12 gauge you connect to the relay first, then what size is out to the positive terminal on the fuse box, the same 12 gauge? I just need a clarification on this. Because it looks like all the wires are smaller and the only 12 gauge I see it on your fuse box. I understand the connection well, just confusing whether the 12 gauge should go to the relay first. thank's again

Thanks for the comment, glad it helped!

Sounds like he's walking uphill. His breaths don't seem to be giving him the full amount of oxygen. Maybe it's his helmet.

I agree, it’s one of my only gripes with this bag. In particular, just the one strap at the front that can’t be detached from the bag when you want to remove it from the bike.

@@N5Gunner Hi there...a little late reading these comments but I have a simple idea. Buy a short length of matching nylon strap and a quick release nylon buckle set (like a Nexus 25mm Airloc Buckle) from an outdoor store. 1. Cut the problem strap mid point. 2. Have a shoemaker stitch a short section of the strap you bought along with the nylon buckle set at mid point and there's your release point for removing the bag without removing the strap that's wrapped around the steering.

@mikec9162 Definitely a great option/recommendation, thanks - I've actually thought of/considered doing this. I haven't yet been bothered by it enough to go ahead and do something like you said, and I've also only been on camping trips with the bike, where I am camping right next to the bike and happy to leave the tank-bag on overnight. However, if I was to complete a long trip where I'd be needing/wanting to take the tank-bag off multiple times per day and every night, I'd probably go ahead and do exactly what you suggested. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks for watching and for the question! Unfortunately I can't give you an accurate answer, because I purchased this bike from the previous owner, with the K60's already installed (and with a fair amount of wear on them already). However, as I'm sure you've already researched, they are known to be a very long-lasting tire, with many people saying they get 10,000-20,000km on a set! Sorry I couldn't provide a good answer for my particular mileage though. Cheers

Thanks for watching and for the comment Andreas! Unfortunately I'm not quite sure what you mean or what you're asking, can you try explaining for me? Thanks

@@N5Gunner My suitcases are not parallel on the carrier. They form a slight "V", with the opening at the front. That's why my motorcycle is 112 cm wide in the middle with the panniers and only 104 cm at the rear. Is that the case with you too?

@@andreasjacobi2400 I see what you mean - unfortunately I won't be around my motorcycle for several weeks for me to go and check, but from what I remember, and even in the video, I believe mine are exactly the same, yes. I believe that is perfectly normal, because mine are definitely mounted correctly - I think it is due to the racks/mounts, and not necessarily due to the geometry of the cases themselves (but I could be wrong about that). Cheers!

At 1:12 in the video there is a decent angle that seems to show how my cases do the same.

@@N5Gunner Thank you for your quick answer. All the best and greetings from Germany Andreas

It's an important and necessary part of serious emergency braking. Without using the engine braking you are losing a large portion of your total potential stopping force.

@N-5Gunner if I'm emergency breaking I'm not F@$king about changing gears. When I might have 1-2 meters to stop.

@@jeremyball169 That's because you haven't developed the skills to be able to do so then, which is fine. But, it means that you won't be stopping as quickly as you would be able to if you were able to use the engine braking as well, which can be very important when you only have 1-2 meters to stop ;)

Thanks for the kind comment, glad it was helpful! To be honest, I'm actually struggling to remember the manufacturer of the crash bars, and the bike is currently in storage for the winter so I can't easily check unfortunately. However, I am quite confident that they are the SW Motech crash bars, but I will try to remember to confirm and add an update here after I have the bike out if it turns out that they are a different brand. Thanks!

Thanks for the comment! The whole setup certainly works great as an affordable option if you're willing to do a bit of handy-work with installing the switch and other pieces 👍

Thank you for watching!

Thanks for watching! We went in June, so the weather was for the most part sunny, and very warm. When on the mountain passes at higher altitudes, the temperatures can drop, but even then, most of them were still quite warm!

Most of the auxiliary lights I see come with an ON/OFF switch, yes. If you hook the auxiliary lights up to an auxiliary fuse box, it’s still best to make use of the ON/OFF switch - doing this allows you to still turn the lights on/off with the switch, it simply means that you will only be able to turn the lights on once the bike is on and power is being supplied to the auxiliary fuse box. This adds the benefit of not being able to accidentally leave/turn the lights on and drain the battery once the bike is switched off. Hopefully that is what you are asking! Thanks

@@N5Gunner Thanks for your quick reply. I should have been more clear. I would be using the on/off switch that comes with the auxiliary lights; but do you need to hook up BOTH trigger wires, the one coming with the lights and the fuse block? Maybe the answer is if you use the on/off switch, you need to hook up the trigger wire also coming out of the auxiliary light relay.

@@rogerhart1835 ​ Yes, you would still use the auxiliary light relay and it’s trigger wire. The auxiliary light relay should have four wires - a power input (power coming from the auxiliary fuse box), a power output (running to the lights), a negative/ground, and the trigger. The trigger wire for the auxiliary light relay is the ON/OFF switch. So you end up with the primary auxiliary fuse box relay being triggered by a circuit that is only live when the bike is on (I used the rear running light), and then the trigger for the auxiliary light relay is the ON/OFF switch wire. Hopefully I’ve got it right this time around and understood what you were asking correctly! 😅

@@N5Gunner 👍

Hi Lazar, if you are asking about whether it is possible to mount either of the two hard side cases on the top/rear of the bike, then I don't believe that is possible. At least not with any pre-made existing brackets that are on the market currently, as far as I know.

Hi Bob. Can we see your set up in a video. It would help the motorcycle community. Thank you

@@ben54322 I dont do YT video's and stuff, but if there's a way to send you a private message or email, then tell me how and i'll send you a photo of it, and also a schematic so you can post it. It's a 4-way fuse box all with individual mini fuses and i've also added a common ground to the fuse box make it easier. I currently only have a 2 way usb charger attached, but it's now a simple job to fit heated grips or a 12v socket or whatever else takes my fancy, and because it's an easy fit i could simply remove it for my next bike should i wish. GL

Appreciate the comment, thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comment Bob, that's interesting and sounds like it could be a good option and space saver (I'm assuming you're talking about the auxiliary light in-line fuse)! Now that it's been a while I can't actually remember if that in-line fuse came with the lights as part of the included wire harness/relay - I believe it did, but a relay with a built-in mini blade fuse would certainly be cleaner!

Thanks so much for the comment! I'm glad it was helpful!