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Glad the valve Spring compressor helped u in your restrorshon great job JIM

Thanks for sharing.

Briggs &Stranton Valve Spring Compressor for L head engines Part#19063

Looks like it should work well! I'm only asking because I'm curious but did you attempt to remove that long pivot bolt from the Briggs & Stratton engine cover? would've saved quite a bit of work if you could've swapped that over to the Tecumseh somehow

Looks like she'll be a runner! The reason it wouldn't turn the other direction at 2:49 was you were engaging the starter clutch by spending it the other way 👍🏻

Nice work. The big gasket at 11:49 is made that way to help direct airflow over the cooling fins and away from the intake of the carburetor

No one rebuilds on one of those. Engines are not that hard to find. I use a new harbor freight engine, good to go. Saves time, and money.

If you can show a close up of the price of aluminum I can prob tell you where it came from. Don't throw it away, alot of good parts, at min put the good parts in keep bin. Coil, head, flywheel, bolts, cam, lifters, head etc. I built flat head 5's for many years for kart racing. If you need a particular part I most likely have it, or if you want to sell that engine I may be interested, reach out

It could be resuable but for a pretty penny, you could buy a rebuild kit for it with an oversized piston and get a machine shop to bore the cylinder wall out, but that would cost more than buying a new motor or finding a replacment one.

Good job Jim, I think that's quite a common problem on Briggs engines, I've seen this issue on other small engine channels. Look forward to next episode...

Don’t like the new junk. Rather have the old junk. Ck the gov adjustment .

Great job!! Would like to see a john deere 318 video.. Keep them coming!!

Thank you Jim

Those safety shrouds work better than a bagging system for collecting grass.

Nicely done! A tip for future reference, when rebuilding grease-able spindles you need to remove the inner seals from the bearings otherwise they won’t accept grease and there’s no point in greasing them.

Will I have been down this road before you have your way of doing this project and I have mine I don’t feel like tearing the hydrostatic apart for just a leak I have seen this before and I would rather put on a little bit more than not enough have a great day

5:53 That is entirely way to much sealant applied by Ray Charles. 1/16" bead. Run it down the center of the machined surface. Don't touch it, don't mess with it. One little bead right down the center. When you mate the surface you have a perfect sealant distribution without excess squeeze out, and no chance of any voids being created with cake frosting application. I don't get why the orange "high temp" either.

Will u show how to change transmission filter

Valve seal on intake valve

Good job Jim, look forward to the next episode..

I would use antiz on every single bolt and shaft period

It’s great to completely rebuild and paint it all back to new standards 😊 People are going to regret not fixing the 90 and 2000 models in top shape again 😮😮😮

It's a thumbs up from me.. Take care of yourself too Jim..

There should NOT be any spacers below the front transaxle bracket where you had to drill out those two bolts. What a lot of people do is remove the bottom two bolts and drill through the about 1/8 inch space between the top and bottom and install a LONG grade 8 bolt through the bottom out the top holes and put a locking nut on it. Makes for a more secure MOUNTING to that bracket. Also those spacers will cause the transaxle to be pitched down in the front. May cause you to have a looser belt because of that. you should take them out and so the transaxle is flush with the bracket.

I agree keep the deck clean and it will last a long time.

I needed to learn how to sharpen the blades on my mowers and this video had some great tips and tricks that others left out. Thanks for this, I'll try to sharpen my blades this weekend!

I'm not getting bored with you Jim.. Keep cool, it's quite hot here in the UK too, 25 degrees ..

5 star work as always

It's a thumbs up from me Jim.. Simon..

Good effort Jim, I think you should ask Father Christmas for one of those manual tyre changing stands this year haha..

Good job Jim, liked the idea of the spring behind the valve to keep it in contact with the valve lapping tool suction cup..

Good job Jim, look forward to part 2, possibly part 3 & 4 . haha..

Great video and love that you mentioned the oil change on the K46. Fun fact originally from the factory some K46 models came with standard 10w30 oil and since then Tuff torque changed and recommends that the 10w30 be replaced with fully synthetic 5w50.

Jim what happened to your other videos? I was looking for th cub cadet 1050 rebuild.

👍👍👍

Another Great Video. A suggestion ... Add "Cub Cadet XT1 LT42" to the Video Title. I think you would get ALOT more views. AND LIKES for sure. One thing I did not notice is NO GREASE FITTINGS on the factory Spindles. Unless I missed them. If those were greaseable I do not think the rust on the bearings would have been as bad. If they had greaseable spindles I would have removed the INNER COVERS of the bearings and pumped the spindles FULL. might have lasted WAY MORE than just 55 hours if the factory had done that themselves.

Good effort, the electrics in those Chinese scooters often cause issues.. Check all earth connections to the frame and wash all connectors and fuse holders etc with switch cleaner.. Cheers from the UK..

Jim I'm with you on sealed bearings but what if you popped out the inside seals exposing the bearings then put a sert on one side and a seep hole on the other to know when you were full of grease. Thoughts? Thanks as always.

Jim Getting ready to grease my rebuilt cub cadet spindle and I have sta lube moly graph multi - purpose grease part # sl3144. Will that be fine? Thank -you as always.

Jim I have a question about a lt1045 Cub Cadet. If a spindle pulley is not free spinning which I assume is bad bearings could that cause the belt to jump off when PTO is engaged? Thanks in advance.

Thank you for sharing sir

Great video. I went to tuff torq. They only sell the complete unit -no parts, says pre-filled. 7A646084591 mtd model number 618-07207. could not get parts diagram. Unless I am doing something wrong.

5 star 🌟 as always thank you

Job security on the 4 bolts.

You should have explained the importance of the belt for the blades. It’s just like a timing belt. We appreciate all of your videos and the time that you take to explain all the details. Great job.

I hope that you get what you want

You really do a great job!

Jim I have really enjoyed this project as All the projects you do. You know it never fails to amaze me that I learn something new each time. Thanks and keep them coming. You're loyal fan.

Please let me know Mitchell's contact information. Thanks in advance. Keep it yellow since it's a John Deere.

you should put clips of what was wrong with wiring and other stuff because its hard to follow since its been awhile since first videos, i had to stop this video and go back and watch earlier video so i would be up to speed, also maybe go into a little detail about what you found wrong in wiring ,a lot of us would be interested in the fix just a couple of pointers to keep people interested in your videos in my opinion not trying to be negative just trying to make it less frustrating to follow a series thanks for your videos